I found a local restorer who came and looked at my 68 vert. He's going to bid the following list of repairs. What do you think his bid willcome in at? I'll know in a couple of days.

floor pans both sides (may go with one piece full floor or he may finish what I've started).
full trunk floor
quarter panels repaired. (He didn't think I needed full replacements but 80% might do)
some repair on inner and outer wheel houses
dash metal
one inner fender
disassemble front end, pull subframe out, sand blast and paint it
paint engine compartment body color (firewall, inner fenders, under hood etc)
assemble rear end (which is out now) with new springs
paint car to include bumble bee stripe
separate bid to redo complete interior and new convertible top

25K for "nice driver" quality work.

What part of the country are you in 68 Ragtop? If anybody else responds please indicate where you're from. Thanks

What part of the country are you in 68 Ragtop? If anybody else responds please indicate where you're from. Thanks

Look to the right of his post, it says SoCal... Not everyone has that filled in though.

The thing about this is it's $100 per hr or more here in CA for the work you want and depending where folks are located labor could be as low as $40 per hr.

It's also hard to judge hrs, someone will say it take 12hrs to install 2 floor sections and someone else will say if the guy is good it should only take 6 hrs. Reality is until it's started you don't know what you can run into that can make the job take longer...

its hard to put a figure on that, we are 50.00/hr down here!!..full floor 1000.00, trunk 300.00, 500.00 per quarter,dash would have to see how bad,50.00 inner fender,1500.00 for front sub frame,500.00 for the rear end,7000.00 to paint the car.1800.00 for the int and the top!! got an opening august 1st!! (parts are seperate,any additional aggrivation fee's are seperate) thats a general ballpark from north carolina!!

What part of the country are you in 68 Ragtop? If anybody else responds please indicate where you're from. Thanks
Sorry, it's a California thing.
SoCal is short for Southern California. I am in the Los Angeles area.
FYI: "NorCal" is Northern California and "In The OC" is Orange County California, but there are a bunch of States with an Orange County.

What you are describing is almost a complete resto. Plus, once you start major work. you will find more work needs to be done.

Is this a real shop, or the guys home garage or backyard?

Is this a real shop, or the guys home garage or backyard?[/QUOTE]


Sorry about missing the location in the signature. I just forgot those were there.

He has a real restoration shop and I've seen his work. Real nice. I think he got a good look at my 68. I've been playing with it for a long time so it's pretty much apart. So far I have put in a new inner rocker and one side of the tunnel from toeboard to under the rear seat. The rocker is half welded in and the pan is being screwed in about ready to weld. I haven't touched the passenger side yet. The inner rocker there is probably OK and the rear is still good but from the seat brace up to the floor board needs replaced or repaired. He said he could either finish where I'm at or go full floor. He's going to figure both ways and let me know.

I'm going to start playing with it again this weekend. At least I'm going to pull the brake stuff out of the 8.2 rear and swap it onto the 8.5. I'm thinking about putting the 8.5 under it so it will roll. That might lead to some issue with the springs I bought. I have a thread over on suspensions that I haven't heard from anyone yet.

20-25 K for the body and another 5 for the interior.... just guessing.

If one is farming work out, and cost is an issue, you cant afford it
If you ant afford it, you can buy all the tools, welders etc, do it yourself a little cheaper and end up with a well equiped workshop.
Then the arguement is "I dont have the skills"
Well look at it this way,
are u of ave integence, can you follow instruction to the letter?
The guys who rebuild, do they have degrees or PhDs? No
They are the 'dumbies' who attended shop at school, took care of fine details...and now run rather a profitable business
So what is the difference between them and us....simple they have patience, and laugh all the way to the bank.
I have a good friend in a town about 100 miles away...and that is how he describes it
His wife runs the business, the 'boys' do the bread and butter insurance work/ paint He just enjoys building custom rod chassis, hammer and fill, roll up new panels, goes to shows and a couple trips each yr to the states for shows over there and pic up a couple projects to bring back...owns the 15,000 sq ft building....by the time he was 32
"not bad for a guy who dropped out of school at 15" as he puts it lol.

If one is farming work out, and cost is an issue, you cant afford it
If you ant afford it, you can buy all the tools, welders etc, do it yourself a little cheaper and end up with a well equiped workshop.
Then the arguement is "I dont have the skills"
Well look at it this way,
are u of ave integence, can you follow instruction to the letter?
The guys who rebuild, do they have degrees or PhDs? No
They are the 'dumbies' who attended shop at school, took care of fine details...and now run rather a profitable business
So what is the difference between them and us....simple they have patience, and laugh all the way to the bank.
I have a good friend in a town about 100 miles away...and that is how he describes it
His wife runs the business, the 'boys' do the bread and butter insurance work/ paint He just enjoys building custom rod chassis, hammer and fill, roll up new panels, goes to shows and a couple trips each yr to the states for shows over there and pic up a couple projects to bring back...owns the 15,000 sq ft building....by the time he was 32
"not bad for a guy who dropped out of school at 15" as he puts it lol.

Man Steptoe, I could not have put it better myself.

Heck, I am just a dumb old Fireman.....and I am doing ALL of my own work........


FOR ME it kind of takes away from the pride of the work when you say you paid SOMEONE ELSE to do it......

My shop gets better all the time........

Now I just need more room for more tolls......and cars!

Good luck on the resto !!!!!!!!

Paint alone in Socal is 10k for a decent job with very little bodywork. All that metal work would be about 16k, interior about 6k with top
Frame work about 2k
This is for basic driver quality

x2 times as long as x2 as expensive as you budgeted for :D

3 ways to do it ....

1) Buy the car finished already, then you'll know how much it costs ...

2) Do all of your own work, but you'll need a time, a place, tools, money, and patience ..

3) The third way is : Everything in between ... Trade your time or your money, beg your friends, borrow every scrap of information you can (no don't steal), but you'll still need that money part too ...

x2 times as long as x2 as expensive as you budgeted for :D

This planning worksheet is helping me a bundle. Especially after I put each account on Quicken and began a budget plan. Some say it takes the fun out of it. I think it puts the fun in it...

http://i708.photobucket.com/albums/ww88/guppy_68/20090620160158_p01.jpg
http://i708.photobucket.com/albums/ww88/guppy_68/20090620161134_p01.jpg

Buy a pot of blackboard paint...a packet of school chalk....
When one gets a bit bogged , just seeing things crossed of the list is a big incentive.

Buy a pot of blackboard paint...a packet of school chalk....
When one gets a bit bogged , just seeing things crossed of the list is a big incentive.
l:)

OG, I'm laughing but it's probably true.

I started with that chart Silvio... with good intentions.
I threw it out a couple years later when I realized there weren't enough columns to keep changing things. :)
Now I do what Steps suggested, except not on a chalkboard. I keep a list and "plans" on the shop wall and check them off or add as I go.

Well a second restorer came out yesterday and spent a long time looking it over. He's going to research parts etc and get back to me with a bid. He pointed out there is a slight difference in the rear door gap. Wider at the bottom. It's from the body sagging in the middle. He said it's a usual problem with convertibles. He suggested using a body jig to make sure it sets correctly and putting it on a rotiserie.

Whether I can afford to farm it out or not at least this has stirred me back into action. I cleaned up the 8.5 Nova rear end yesterday and will get it ready soon. This morning I finally cleaned out the trunk and packed all the parts I've taken off into marked boxes. Now I have a nice clean uncluttered work area. If I have to wait very long for a restorer to get to it I may tackle the trunk floor and dash metal. The guy yesterday said he couldn't get to it until next year and he it would take a year to complete. Sounds long to me. I know a lot of you guys have had your cars in a shop longer even but to start out saying it will take a year??

I also want to ask about this. The first guy said he can get not only a full one piece floor pan but that it comes in a full piece with inner rocker attached or inner and outer and even one with seat braces already attached. Anybody heard of that? I'm not seeing it in any of the parts houses online.

New:
Fenders,full doors,full quarters,roof,outter wheelwells,inner fenders,core support,repair deck lid,patch rockers,prime,block,prime block,prime,block,paint,and clear.... 5 months in the shop.... so, yes a year sounds long (they didn't work on it 8hr.s a day or everyday either :noway:)

after you get a realistic estimate and get comfortable with it you'd better consider doubling it.

by the time the key is in the ignition and you're ready to start & drive it for the first time you'll realize what all the incidentals have done to your budget.

"Body & Paint" are just that, nothing else. what about interior, trim, instrumentation, chrome, suspension, drivetrain... the list, thank goodness isn't endless but after the initial budget's gone and you're still on the other side of the mountain NOT even in that proverbial tunnel you'll have a very rude awakening on the real costs to build a car.

once the process has been started, unless finished with all the same quality stuff you'll lose. Oh i'll just use this cheapy part for now and do it over later doesn't work. it only costs more to do anything twice.

be prepared to do some time too. think of it as being in jail. Car Jail ;) everything will take longer than you think and if you ARE thinking of a budget... well, get a big box of erasers with the pencils because it's going to change everyday.

other than paint & body i did everything on my car and it took 7 years. tons of parts that i hoarded ended up not fitting, not being correct for the "scheme" of my build and in the end i think i lost close to 3K in parts i couldn't use. another thing, it's great to save all your receipts for documentation but keep the receipts and the adding machine away from each other. sometimes it's not good to know what you have invested until the job is 100% done ;)

sorry to be so longwinded ;)


JR

About 20K

LOL... I still haven't added mine up.... I don't think I really want to know :noway:

LOL... I still haven't added mine up.... I don't think I really want to know :noway:


A MAJOR x2 on that one! Lmao! :yes:

I'm just glad I bought my Camaro when they were still complete, affordable, running and driving.

and, um... guys... NEVER tell the wives the totals! Never...:D

after you get a realistic estimate and get comfortable with it you'd better consider doubling it.

by the time the key is in the ignition and you're ready to start & drive it for the first time you'll realize what all the incidentals have done to your budget.

"Body & Paint" are just that, nothing else. what about interior, trim, instrumentation, chrome, suspension, drivetrain... the list, thank goodness isn't endless but after the initial budget's gone and you're still on the other side of the mountain NOT even in that proverbial tunnel you'll have a very rude awakening on the real costs to build a car.

once the process has been started, unless finished with all the same quality stuff you'll lose. Oh i'll just use this cheapy part for now and do it over later doesn't work. it only costs more to do anything twice.

be prepared to do some time too. think of it as being in jail. Car Jail ;) everything will take longer than you think and if you ARE thinking of a budget... well, get a big box of erasers with the pencils because it's going to change everyday.

other than paint & body i did everything on my car and it took 7 years. tons of parts that i hoarded ended up not fitting, not being correct for the "scheme" of my build and in the end i think i lost close to 3K in parts i couldn't use. another thing, it's great to save all your receipts for documentation but keep the receipts and the adding machine away from each other. sometimes it's not good to know what you have invested until the job is 100% done ;)

sorry to be so longwinded ;)


JR

Thanks for letting me know i am not the only one that has lost $$ in parts.
I have been building my duece for about 3 years now and I am affraid to add up the amount.
I did the paint and body myself and just in material I bet I have 1,500-2K.
Here is a link. Can't wait to start on the camaro.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3201939

oh yeah, i got tired of spending, say, 500 bucks for a part then finding i couldn't use it. put it up for sale and have someone offer to do you a "favor" by offering 250 for that 500 dollar part.

i ended up with enough stuff in the end i bought another car just to use all the parts, sold that car to finish the one i was building to begin with ;)

Well a second restorer came out yesterday and spent a long time looking it over. He's going to research parts etc and get back to me with a bid. He pointed out there is a slight difference in the rear door gap. Wider at the bottom. It's from the body sagging in the middle. He said it's a usual problem with convertibles. He suggested using a body jig to make sure it sets correctly and putting it on a rotiserie.

Whether I can afford to farm it out or not at least this has stirred me back into action. I cleaned up the 8.5 Nova rear end yesterday and will get it ready soon. This morning I finally cleaned out the trunk and packed all the parts I've taken off into marked boxes. Now I have a nice clean uncluttered work area. If I have to wait very long for a restorer to get to it I may tackle the trunk floor and dash metal. The guy yesterday said he couldn't get to it until next year and he it would take a year to complete. Sounds long to me. I know a lot of you guys have had your cars in a shop longer even but to start out saying it will take a year??

I also want to ask about this. The first guy said he can get not only a full one piece floor pan but that it comes in a full piece with inner rocker attached or inner and outer and even one with seat braces already attached. Anybody heard of that? I'm not seeing it in any of the parts houses online.

the assembly he speaks of is for sale for about 2300-2500$ through classic industries. is comes complete with rockers(inner/outer) frame rails, one peice floor and trunk and inner rear valance already installed as a unit! just cut your assembly out and clean up the car. the rest is basic fit and weld. if you need inner rear well work, this time would be the time to do so. i've never tackled a project this in depth but i will tell you this. i have 9k into my car and i have just begun to start the metal work. i have all panels to complete it but no help! i'm building the body jig within a few weeks and i'll be doing all the work myself.

i weld for a living so thats one skill i wont need to learn. if you need help ask as we could do ourss in a progression if your interested in doing this together. also might be able to help in person!!

pm me if you'd like to do so!!

I started with that chart Silvio... with good intentions.
I threw it out a couple years later when I realized there weren't enough columns to keep changing things.
Now I do what Steps suggested, except not on a chalkboard. I keep a list and "plans" on the shop wall and check them off or add as I go.

There is nothing wrong with doing things the way one feels best fit to keep track of it all. It is like making initial decisions on the build and sticking to it. It’s true, setting up the program on every detailed category in the chart of accounts is not easy and takes a lot of preparation, planning and time. I just have been trained to do that type of thing and enjoy it.

Steptoe, I believe I got lost in the translation when you wrote "When one gets a bit bogged , just seeing things crossed of the list is a big incentive." I read it somewhat humorous as if when an "account" or column is getting over budgeted, then crossing it out before the amount got any bigger or overwhelming would be an incentive to carry on. It is good advice to see it in simple terms and I will be pinning a chart on my wall as well. Threads sometimes read as double meanings and I’m sorry if that was not what you meant.

I did all my work myself.It has taken me 1 year and I'm driving it.I still need a few little things.I kept track of my time up till I got it painted,400 hrs. later.I had about 2000.00 in paint & material.a lot of the time was blocking primer(I blocked 7 or 8 times with a 3' block)but I filled,sanded and painted floors and trunk on both sides.I replaced both 1/4's,both outer wheelhouses,tailpan,center trunk floor,left floor pan,firewall,dashpanel,doorskins,hood,decklid,fend ers,header,etc.etc.I stopped adding the money up,I know I'm well over 25,000.00 and if I charged 50.00/hr.for labor,that would be another 20,000.00,just to get to paint!Them I spent the last 6 months with assy. and interior.

Payed out around $28000 for the body work and paint on my vert. I didn't have to replace my floor pans but did replace both inner quarters and had to turn full quarter panels into vert quarters. The guy done a fabulous job on fabbing and tigging the tops up. It's sure enough a show car but I'm bout scared to drive it anywhere much less park it in a convenience store parking lot if you know what I mean. I think the next one I do I'll paint it flat black, slam it to the ground, drop a big block in it and roll. :D

All guesses in my opinion so far are too low.
You will be spending minimum of $30,000.
You really did not give enough information to accurately answer the question either (although I have to admit I just skimmed the tread).
To me the fact that you are seriously asking the question means you have the wrong car for you.

If you are having the body shop dismantle the interior, remove the engine, etc. and put the entire car back together. I would say, "bend over, and you will be driven home in a couple of years." OUCH!

If you can not do a lot of work yourself, you will have a car that you can NEVER make money on. But, if you die and "Will" the car to your kids, finally someone will be able too. LOL! This assume that you did not leave anything that still has to be done by YOU. If you did, your kids will hate you after the will is read!!!!!!!!

Well.......I have my 67 at the same body shop that did Doug G's car. They are replacing the following item....keep in mind that I'm supplying all the sheetmetal.
Full trunk pan
Inner and outer wheel wells
Both quarters
Both outer rockers
Rear tail Panel (including inner valance)
Replace dash top
Replace LH front floor and toeboard
Repair shifter hole
Spray underside with bed liner
Prime and block twice.
Spray firewall.
The car is on a body cart as I'm going through the subframe and drive train.
It will be delivered back to me in 3 weeks to assembly it. :thumbsup:
Then we will discuss 2 more blocks and paint. :confused:
Everything has been paid for except dash top and floor pan repairs.

I've got 4k in it so far, shop owner says 5k will be the bottom line price.

Well.......I have my 67 at the same body shop that did Doug G's car. They are replacing the following item....keep in mind that I'm supplying all the sheetmetal.
Full trunk pan
Inner and outer wheel wells
Both quarters
Both outer rockers
Rear tail Panel (including inner valance)
Replace dash top
Replace LH front floor and toeboard
Repair shifter hole
Spray underside with bed liner
Prime and block twice.
Spray firewall.
The car is on a body cart as I'm going through the subframe and drive train.
It will be delivered back to me in 3 weeks to assembly it. :thumbsup:
Then we will discuss 2 more blocks and paint. :confused:
Everything has been paid for except dash top and floor pan repairs.

I've got 4k in it so far, shop owner says 5k will be the bottom line price.

All that for 5k labor and it sounds like it's ready to paint? If I can get all that done for 5k labor I would probably have it done.

As pointed out...if farmed out...you better have deep pockets, as there's always the unexpected.

But one thing not mentioned (I think?) is be very very diligent on whoever you end up having the work done for you. Check the shop out. Get a list of past customers, and talk with them... don't rely on second hand referrals. Check with BBB and see how long the company has been in operation...the longer, the better This is a major investment on your part. Take your time.

capt

take pictures all along the build...drop in time to time...and unless he has asked for a large dep. up front be willing to pay as you go...that always helps keep a shop owner motivated...
a friend does this for living...does top quality work..his biggest complaint over all...is that people expect him to finance their projects...then he ends up "adjusting" their bill so he can get paid...

Kevin,
That is kinda how I'm getting my work done. When he first started the work, we established milestone as to when he gets paid. As the milestones are reached, I pay him for work accomplish....has worked out real well. I tried to get him to give me a bottom line price...he wouldn't do it. There are to many variables that come into play....like we didn't plan on replacing the trunk pan..so it was added expense.

If you want another bid, give Jerry a call at Collision Pro. He's in Hillsboro, but spends a lot of time in the St. Charles area. He did my 68 a few years ago. What others were quoting me 10-15K for he did for about 5. You can see pics of his work in my sig. His number is (636) 797-9011.

If you want another bid, give Jerry a call at Collision Pro. He's in Hillsboro, but spends a lot of time in the St. Charles area. He did my 68 a few years ago. What others were quoting me 10-15K for he did for about 5. You can see pics of his work in my sig. His number is (636) 797-9011.


Dave, thanks for the referral. I'll call him soon

Winch, I sent you a PM about your project.

I would have estimated $8K from what you mentioned. That's a ton o work!

First bid came in just under 17k. I really don't think it's that bad when you consider it includes 1800 for complete new interior which also includes changing the color and 1100 for a new convertible top. I like the looks of his work but I layed awake half the night feeling sick to my stomach that I was throwing in the towel and giving up. I'll never learn to do this if I don't do it. I think I'm going to get the welder out and get back to it.

I have only bought completed cars. I had always wanted to restore one, which leads to the 3rd car in my sig. I felt this car needed to be done with as much nos body parts as needed, so here is where I'm at right now.(also see pics in sig.)
nos parts = 5000.00(qrts,tailpan,rs grill, misc.ext trim)
eng/tran = 3750.00
parts pl. = 8,000.00(full trk pn,roof,int kit,all glass ect....)
Labor = 29,000(best around very glad I chose these guys)
to finish = 2000.00 (can I get a loan)
total = 47,750.00
It's been 2 yrs because of me wanting to use as much of the orginal parts as I could, rechroming,rebuilding and locating orginal parts. but I think it is well worth it.