I have been chasing this one for a week now and need some expert help sorry about the long post in advace but this is driving me crazy.

Here is where I am, I converted to a 12SI 100 amp internal regulated alternator. I bypassed the external regulator by connecting the blue and brown wire and the red and white wire.

The blue wire goes to terminal #2 and the white wire goes to terminal #1 on the alternator.

1) When I connect my battery to the circut the white wire and the +bat charging wire on the alternator are constant hot regaurdless if the key is on or the car is running; is this correct. In addition I have striped the wiring looms off and see the red wire that left th original regulator and the wire feeding the battery and the wire feeding the +bat charging wire on the back of the alernator are all connected together.

2) The blue wire is not hot when the car is not on, I have also converted to a Covan dash and wired it per their instructions, I have read their needs to be a fusable link in the circut and if wired with the factory wiring their is one via the alternator warning light. I may have taken this out of the circut when I wired in the new dash.

3) Here is where my problem is when I hook the battery in the circut as I describe above and put a charger on the system my alternator gets hot.

I have not started the car yet with the new configeration, also it will the first start up for the car after a year and a half restoration. So I am making sure the electrical is correct first.

Why would the alternator be getting hot when I charge the system. maybe there is no problem at all and I should just start the car?

Please electrical experts chime in.

Thanks
Wrooster

Your post, to me anyway, reads like you have it connected correctly.
Is the external battery charger over charging? Should not be over 16 volts.
White wire would ign key activated.
Disconnecting the alt, what is the ohmic value, in both meter lead directions, of BAT to alt case?
RED(BAT) to case(BLACK)?
BLACK(BAT) to case(RED)?

Should be of a fairly high resistance, as in megohms, the more the better.

No, I wouldn't start it unless you unhook the alt and use the ext battery charger while it sits in the driveway until the problem is found.
Do you have the ability to install the 12SI alt into an '80's vehicle?

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/marlan_davis_technical_advise/alternator_external_to_internal_regulator.html According to this the 2 small wires are reversed. Scroll down halfway page 1, click on small wiring diagram on left.

do not start car as is. wiring is incorrect. # 1 and #2 at alt are reversed. Post on alt should always be hot as well as #2 on alt. #1 should be hot on off with key with a resistor in line between ign switch and alt.
As is, alt rotor is being fed making alt warm. You may have damaged the trio as well, but maybe not. To correct warm alt condition either reverse wires at alt plug or switch white and blue wires at reg plug. #1 will have to be wired thru ign with a resistor before the alt, but the alt may charge as is (after wire reversal) by increasing RPM (rev engine) similar to a 1 wire setup as long as the rotor matains magnetism.

Thanks guys I will retrace my steps and wire as above. Now correct me if I am wrong but the resistor stellar is speaking of is the generator warning light that was used in the factory dash. I no longer have that light as I have gone to a COVAN dash with all autometer gauges, I have also switched to an IDIDIT column. What should I use in place of the resistor, also in the diagram markw referenceed it shows a diode inline on the blue wire. I believe this was the generator light and it works to prevent back flow of electric. So what type of diode or resistor should I install and is it as simple as wiring it inline on the blue wire.

Thanks
JJ

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/marlan_davis_technical_advise/alternator_external_to_internal_regulator.html In the middle column with bold type the last paragraph....
"If you are not running a dash warning light or don't have the original resistance wire in the stock harness included with the factory gauge package, it will be necessary to add a diode to the No. 1 terminal circuit or the car won't shut off." The instructions for my MSD box shows a 100v/1amp diode wired exactly the same way. You can get them at Radio Shack.

I rewired my entire car with a full power kit from Mad Enterprise. I also used an alt. kit including removing the external voltage reg. and a hot start em up kit. I could scan the wiring diagram and e mail it to you if you pm me. I'm super happy with the kit the little tech sheets and instructional booklets that Mark sends out with his kits are super informative. I have super bright headlights using the supplied Bosch relays and have never had a hot start issue since the installation.

See return pm I sent for resistor size. If you need a diode to prevent run on I have a part that is a plug in piece. It is about 3 inches long and has on one end a plug that goes in the alt (same plug as you are using now) and the other end has a plug to accept the plug that you now have in the alt. It is about a 10 second install and is clean looking, and works great. Let me know if you want one. Mark

I looked in the Mad Enterprise booklet and he shows 2 ways to wire the internal voltage regulated alternators. One method for up to 65 amps and another for more powerful alternators. I have a 100 amp 3 wire Powermaster that I wired with the diode according to the instructions and have never had a problem even running my 3000cfm fan and 1200watt system full bore.

Like I said earlier I could scan it and email it if your interested.