My 396 with a blown rear main is coming out . I have decided to sell it and go with a 468 or 496. The build starts this week! I have a 67 convertible with a newer TKO600 5 sp,373 moser 12bolt rear and a little bit of frame reinforcing.18x8 rears (probably go 18x9 soon)The 468 will be near 570hp. The 496 should be 650. I know 570hp I can handle but I cant help myself lean toward the 496. What will I wreck first? How long will the tremec last? The silly thing is my main driving is street and pro tour.I like to squeak the tires now and then but havent got a ticket in years!

You'll toast your brakes, trying to slow down :-)

Topo much HP starts around 1600 IMHO.
Upgrade to disc brakes and you will be fine.

Rich

got the brakes, got a decent rad.

I gotta ask. Is the 396 original? Don't sell it if it is. Just store it. And that tranny will outlive you.

Is there such a thing as too much HP??? Without a real sticky tire you probably won't ever hurt anything on the street since most likely you have some traction issues. Save some money for your tire budget though. Seriously, you'll be fine on the street since you already have a good cooling system and good brakes. Slicks and a trip to the track will find the weak point(s) real quick. I drove a Pro Street 57 Chevy with a blown BBC and a four speed for 10 years on the street and didn't break anything since I never could get any traction. Even with a 18.5 rear tire. And I could never be accused of babying it. LOL.


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I have a 468 that all the numbers from my times last year and the weight that it is, suggests its about 420-450 hp right in there.
On the track with ET Streets, I haze the tires and with a foot brake launch, I crack daylight on the fronts.
On the street? Fuhgettaboutit.....
There is no NOT spinning the tires if you aren't very careful.
I did lots of work on my suspension too, to get the weight to transfer and all. Still spins.

So even 570 will take some concentration to keep it straight.
I may be a real dummy when it comes to mechanical work but driving I've done a fair bit of. Everything from big trucks, boats and even planes. I drove a racecar in the 9.90's back in the day.
So I just stress to you, that if you are not used to 570 or more hp, go easy at first and be careful. It can get away from you in a blink of an eye!!
That all being said, I'd still go with more than less....:thumbsup:

The 396 is out of a 69. It has been bored to 408. It's great, just spits a little too much oil is all. I should just do the seal but what fun is that. Does anyone make a decent 3' driveshaft and u-joint package that can handle a bit more power just in case she grabs?
I dont know if I can handle 5 or 600hp but I guess I will find out.

Go big or go home....your always gonna want more power ;-) Im building a 496ci right now to be right at about 600HP, but plan on swapping cams by the end of the year to take advantage of my heads....wanted more streetable for now.

I dont know if I can handle 500 or 600hp but I guess I will find out.

..........you can handle it. Just don't get foolish and think "nothing will happen"........that's when it does happen.

David F.

If it makes your eyes bleed then it has too much HP. :D

Imo..hp is not going to get you in trouble.Its simply a mathematical number.Its measured torque that busts the rear tires and sends you sideways.Example..you could have a high strung 327 sbc that kicks out 500 hp at 7500 rpm and never spin a tire.Compare that to 500 hp big block at 5500 rpm with close to 600 ft/lbs at midrange 4500 rpm and be prepared to steer the car straight.

There is no such thing as too much horse power....
You may need to disipline your right foot....:)

There is no such thing as too much horse power....
You may need to disipline your right foot....:)

Or get a really big checking account for all the tickets you'd get on the street:D

I would make sure that the chassis can take the abuse. I'm not sure about subframe connectors and convertibles, but if a decent weld-in set is made, I would definately get those. Next I would upgrade the rear springs, especially if your on mono-leafs still. Then I would consider a traction bar of some sort, competition engineering slapper bars, slide-a-links or even better yet, caltracs. I upgraded these three items on my car at the same time when it had a stock crate 350 in it and even at that power level, it made the car feel much safer and more predictible. What type of driveshaft do you have? A heavy duty driveshaft wouldn't be a bad idea. I bought a denny's HD shaft for mine and it came assembled with spicer joints and a very nice yoke. Plus, its guarenteed not to break. If it does, then send it back and its repaired or replaced free of charge. I doubt you'll hurt anything as long as your not dumping the clutch and the rear end isn't hopping when its spinning. You'll just have to keep your eyes on that tach needle. :D

In the drivetrain, you need SFI everything. Yes, you'll need to spend about $500 on a driveshaft with 1350 joints so that means a 1350 pinion in the 12-bolt. Stock axles aren't safe in this application so spend some cabbage there. HP = heat so a hi-flow water pump and big aluminum radiator will be needed. Scattershield a must and as is a SFI flywheel. I'm not sure a 3/8" fue line will support 570 HP so you'll likely need to go 1/2" and I like Carter's Street (fuel) Pump which flows 80 gph; about 2x a a stock BB pump. HD motor mounts, and of course something to stabilize the leaf springs. I'm very happy with Cal-Tracs,..about $330. And yes, you need some solid body mounts and weld-in subframe connectors or you'll twist the unibody with 570 HP.

Like I've sad, building the HP is the easy part. Getting the car ready for it can be expensive.

But sounds like fun! Good luck!

Go big or go home....your always gonna want more power ;-) Im building a 496ci right now to be right at about 600HP, but plan on swapping cams by the end of the year to take advantage of my heads....wanted more streetable for now. Hey thats my saying :yes:.... and a good one at that. A 496 will be a nice street beast but you will need frame connectors, traction bars, brakes, drive shaft, and suspension work. A big plus would be to run on pump gas.

In the drivetrain, you need SFI everything. Yes, you'll need to spend about $500 on a driveshaft with 1350 joints so that means a 1350 pinion in the 12-bolt. Stock axles aren't safe in this application so spend some cabbage there. HP = heat so a hi-flow water pump and big aluminum radiator will be needed. Scattershield a must and as is a SFI flywheel. I'm not sure a 3/8" fue line will support 570 HP so you'll likely need to go 1/2" and I like Carter's Street (fuel) Pump which flows 80 gph; about 2x a a stock BB pump. HD motor mounts, and of course something to stabilize the leaf springs. I'm very happy with Cal-Tracs,..about $330. And yes, you need some solid body mounts and weld-in subframe connectors or you'll twist the unibody with 570 HP.

Like I've sad, building the HP is the easy part. Getting the car ready for it can be expensive.

But sounds like fun! Good luck!

Bingo.......

Hey thats my saying :yes:.... and a good one at that. A 496 will be a nice street beast but you will need frame connectors, traction bars, brakes, drive shaft, and suspension work. A big plus would be to run on pump gas.

Haha...its a great one! :thumbsup: It is pump gas, 10.2:1 compression. I waiting to install it so I can measure up for the driveshaft, going to have Dennys build me a nice one with 1330 u joints. Got power discs in the front, traction bars in the rear...but im going to swap to an HR Parts n Stuff rear suspension kit to hook all the power to the ground :D Gonna take a few months before I get more money saved for some stuff, but it will be well worth it...hell its do damn hot and humid to drive here in Texas without AC anways :p

Mind if I ask the specs on your 498?

As long as you're building a driveshaft why not go 1350's instead of 1330's? You'll need a pinion flange but it would be cheap insurance.

As long as you're building a driveshaft why not go 1350's instead of 1330's? You'll need a pinion flange but it would be cheap insurance.

The guys at Dennys recommended the 1330's...Its been a while so I forget the reasoning behind it....

Thanks guys , great advise. I was wondering if a 3/8's fuel line would cut it. Is there is a 1/2 fuel line system that looks and follows the 3/8 factory one? I have a 4leaf with a slide a link in the rear. I have a newer moser 373 rear. I didnt buy it but I amsuming it was ordered with good parts. I know nothing about the driveshaft other than it is 3' . The previous owner did not take shortcuts so it might handle some hp. Probably not 570!