hello all need some help with the clutch also on my 67 not disingaging, these are the part's I used, feel free to pick them apart and offer any comments to find the culprit,this is a bb application.

pedal assy(problee a set of 69's) im not sure if that matters, seems to hook up fine could be 68's i need a pic to identify
clutch firewall rod 67-69 gm
frame brk # 3932760 gm
z bar repo 67-69 bb
clutch adj rod 67-69 bb gm
fork orig gm, I think correct, it'll verify tonight I have a pic from here to compair too and see if i can read a part number
gm clutch fork ball non adjustable
zoom clutch kit(napa)11" including t o bearing and pilot bushing diafram type
chevy truck bell housing(#340254) lots of people said this would work on team chevelle and team camaro
gm large tooth flywhell resurfaced


with the engine running and all the adjustment out of the pedal the muncie wont go into gear, with the engine off it will go into gear, tried reverse with the engine on and reverse grinded but would not engage
thoughts?. I have put transmissions in before and was confident all was correct but now I am being educated and humbulled, appreciate any help!!!
thx scott

first place to look are the pedals? if they are 69's in a 67 would they work? they were originals I bought from a club member but most of his parts cars over the years were mostly 69 hince the question?

How much pedal freeplay do you have?
Do you have complete pedal travel? Does the pedal "feel right"?
If both of these are acceptable, I would take another look at the throw out bearing. Is it installed properly? The tangs on the fork are not to hold on the bearing, but serve as a pivot for the fork.
It will not go into gear because the input shaft is not slowing down. Pilot bushing/ bearing correct, and not binding on the input?
Parts wise, and part #'s, I don't know.
Dale

hi I have no pedal free play , all the slick is takin up
I have complete travel to the floor it feels fine no pops or binding
I thought I put the throw out bearing on correct but maybe not I guess the only way to know for sure is pull the tranny?
yes thats correct the cluster gear assy is still turning with the engine on
do you know if the pedals will work on 67-69
thx scott

i had a similar problem with my TKO conversion, ended up i had to drill a hole in the pedal assembly a little further down, the hole where the linkage rod connected to. it added a little more travel to my pedal which allowed the clutch to disengage completely.
Let me look, cause i know i posted some pics with dimensions and such.

Rob

here's one thread: Clutch Slipping / Adjustment Help Needed (http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=130368)

here's another Bellcrank/Z-Bar measurement (http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=130940)

thx that would be a candidate to suspect the clutch pedals are different for 67-68 compaired to 69 maybe its the throw of the firewall rod?
scott

so the hole on a 67 pedal is lower than a 69 clutch pedal were the firewall rod connects, this would give more throw?,were was this measured from on the top of the clutch pedal?

well here's a update, i pulled the dust boot off the fork on the bell housing and with a mirrior was able to see the pivot link and the t o bearing and it appears the bearing is not on the fork correctly the collar of the bearing is sandwitched between the leaf spring and metal of the fork putting it in a bind, so i'll pull the trans and see if this cures the problem .
thx for the help
scott

There are different pedals from 67/8 to 69. You need about 1"-1 1/2" of free play at the pedal. If you don't incorporate free play into the pedal, the throwout bearing will not be able to back off of the pressure plate fingures, thus, the clutch will wear prematurely.

update , pulled the trans today and fixed the t o bearing position in the fork , looked at the disc, hub side facing out, so good there , put it all back togethere and same problem !!! i can adjust the clutch tight and still won't disengage?
so I called a local camaro guru and he thinks I need the longer t o bearing to push the clutch furthere= less pedal movement more cluch movement?
he looked up applications in his gm parts book and beleives his suggustion to be correct!
so i'll give it a try
does anyone know the actual reason for short and long t o bearings?
is it 10.5 clutch or 11 inch clutch thing or is it bell housing related or car application for that matter.
thx for the help
scott

I believe the short and long TO brg. has to do with the type of pressure plate and the height of the contact surface for the TO brg. but I am not positive.

update, pulled the clutch again to try and put a longer t o bearing in, with the short t o bearing I had about a 1/4 inch of clearence from the diaphram fingers to the bearing face, the longer t o bearing would never fit in there so it was obvious the small t o bearing was right, so I pulled out the presure plate and disc and returned them as deffective and bought a oem replacement clutch kit, reinstalled and low and behold my clutch will now disengage!!I learned after the fact from my crackberry nephew that the clutch I started with was called a high cone clutch assy, which mean the oem fork would not work with this clutch, somewhere on the internet he had found someone with the exact same problem I had and used a alternate gm fork, I had the correct gm 1st gen fork and would never have worked on that clutch, my first clutch was a zoom 30006 kit incase anyone ever searchs this post, I replaced it with a napa oem kit made by zoom also but this time it works!! I am so glad its done!!!!
all the parts on my lists above work correctly even the truck bellhousing!
thx for the help:beers:
scott