Well here is Nicole:
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/A%2067%20named%20Nicole/Nicole-1.jpg
In preperation of installing the 540 Im building next to her, Im going to take care of something that has always bugged me: the half-a$$ look of her firewall, engine compartment, well most of the front end!
Engine Comp:
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/A%2067%20named%20Nicole/DSCF0804.jpg
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/A%2067%20named%20Nicole/DSCF0781.jpg
I cleaned it as best as knew how everytime I built a new small block for her, this time Im going to dig deeper...

Progress starts on Nicole, hey she's about to turn 43!
Sheet metal off:
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/DSCF0866.jpg
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/DSCF0879.jpg
Sway bars have hard lives:
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/DSCF0886.jpg
I've hated looking at these for as long as I can remember:
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/DSCF0878.jpg
Now lets get ready to take some parts to the powder coaters...

Back from the powder coaters. These guys were absolutely unbelievable! Fininshed before they said they would, under what they quoted me, and individually bagged, wrapped and boxed the parts! Oh and they didnt coat where their not supposed to, like bearing races on spindles, or the bushing sleeves on A-arms and I didn't even have to say anything!
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/iPICS004.jpg
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/DSCF0911.jpg
As good as it looks, gotta wrap it up for the firewall stripping I didnt finish because the powdercoaters were so fast.
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/DSCF0909.jpg

I gotta question, when you see the pics of the firewall, you can see the various holes drilled over the years. The ones that look like big holes are actually the rubber push-trees that come through from the interior. But aside from the obviously correct holes (wiper motor, heater box etc...) Can someone point out any of those little holes that are supposed to be there?
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/DSCF0900.jpg
Like these...
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/iPICS007.jpg
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/iPICS008.jpg
Original sheet metal is a good thing...
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/iPICS001.jpg
New parts showing up...
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/DSCF0917.jpg
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/DSCF0913.jpg

Anyone? I need to weld closed the incorrect holes in the firewall before going any further. Can anyone point out from the close up pics which holes are non stock?

Take a look at this thread. I asked a similar question about my (I think) unmolested '67: http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=153286

Thanks, I read that post before I posted, its really only the little tiny holes Im worried about.

I can offer that the two holes that are 12 1/8" apart along the top of the firewall are used for small bolts that anchor the black plastic wire-guide J-channel. Most of the others look extra to me like he used a dent puller to straighten up the firewall or something. I have a brand new '69 firewall installed in my car right now and it's bare. I can take a few more close-ups of that if it would help you. Not sure if a 67 is the same (as far as the holes are concerned though).:confused:


Here is my original untouched or drilled on '69 NON-AC firewall just after I removed it AND my New '69 AC firewall before installation: ( you can click twice on each photo to enlarge them even more)

Actually, I just remembered that "redec" (Cory) is building a '67 now. Here is his firewall to compare to:

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e94/Redec/Car/Restore106.jpg

You guys are awesome!!!

I knew my pics would come in handy for something! I still have my original pass side cowl box with the partial vin stamp. Mine has the hole just like yours. I thought about welding it to my new sheet metal, but since my car is not a "correct numbers" camaro, it will be a garage wall decore for now.

Hi Redec,
First let me complement you on your build! Outstanding job! I have a question about why you welded your heater core shut? Thanks.

You guys are awesome!!!


Anytime...

:thumbsup:

Hi Redec,
First let me complement you on your build! Outstanding job! I have a question about why you welded your heater core shut? Thanks.

I didn't. If you look close you can see through it. It is just dark.

Thank you guys for advice to get me here. (I like this so much better than rattle can!)
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/A%2067%20named%20Nicole/IMG_0374.jpg
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/A%2067%20named%20Nicole/IMG_0377.jpg
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/A%2067%20named%20Nicole/IMG_0376.jpg

Ill get better pics, just wanted to say thanks.

Some better pics:
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/A%2067%20named%20Nicole/IMG_0378.jpg
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/A%2067%20named%20Nicole/IMG_0381.jpg
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/A%2067%20named%20Nicole/DSCF0921.jpg

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/A%2067%20named%20Nicole/DSCF0923.jpg
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/A%2067%20named%20Nicole/DSCF0924.jpg

Thanks for the great customer service on these Prodigy Customs!
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/A%2067%20named%20Nicole/IMG_0390.jpg
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/A%2067%20named%20Nicole/IMG_0394.jpg
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/A%2067%20named%20Nicole/IMG_0399.jpg
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/A%2067%20named%20Nicole/IMG_0396.jpg
Almost ready for the engine...
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/A%2067%20named%20Nicole/IMG_0398.jpg

Very nice..........................sweet Camaro you have there! Jeff

Thank you, like everyone on here I am just trying to do what I can for love of the car.

When I was underneath the bottom of the firewall I noticed some pin-holes in the front toe area of the floor boards. I remember when I did the interior over ten years ago I remember some rust on the floor boards as I was putting a new carpet in and thinking it was no big deal. (I was a highschool kid) So before the motor goes in Im taking care of this. Oh, and the butcher job a previous owner did to the tunnel. The car is an original 4 on the floor car and this has been bugging me for the nearly 15 years Ive owned the car.
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/A%2067%20named%20Nicole/DSCF0929.jpg
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/A%2067%20named%20Nicole/DSCF0931.jpg
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/A%2067%20named%20Nicole/DSCF0934.jpg

Looks like someone at some point lost a u-joint...
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/A%2067%20named%20Nicole/DSCF0939.jpg

Heres the hack job on the floor
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/A%2067%20named%20Nicole/DSCF0941.jpg
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/A%2067%20named%20Nicole/DSCF0944.jpg
Ordered a tunnel patch piece but didnt use to much of it. Probably could have just made the piece from flat stock.
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/A%2067%20named%20Nicole/DSCF0945.jpg
Trying to save as much original metal as possible.
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/A%2067%20named%20Nicole/DSCF0943.jpg
I got the panels for the front floor boards, I really hope I dont have to go to far to hit good metal...

Beautiful work and great pics!

Thanks, couldnt do it without this site! I am going to upgrade my membership to support it.

Are you going to paint, or resurface the underside in some way? I'm trying to figure out the best way to work on my undercarriage without a rotisserie. Got any ideas?

H.

:thumbsup:Are you going to paint, or resurface the underside in some way? I'm trying to figure out the best way to work on my undercarriage without a rotisserie. Got any ideas?

H.

I know, man a rotissere would be better, but can always make it work. I just did the jackstand thing and after removing the subframe I had all the access to the underside. The subframe is in now just to make it easier to assemble. I just got done cutting out the floor board sections Im going to replace so Im about to drop the frame again to weld in the new sections and do the undercoat.
As far as the underside is concerned yes Im redoing it. I will be using 3M undercoating. Ive seen and read many good things on this site about different options. Everyone is welcome to there opinion, my car is a driver, SUNNY day only, track time and local show time, but still a driver. To remove undercoating you can see many different suggestions on what works for you, some here say scraping, some say heat first then scrape, I did some scraping with no heat and a lot of wire wheeling. I just removed the undercoating though. It is more difficult than you think to remove the old primer on the bare metal as you might think. Especially if its original. Also if there is no rust, I dont want to! If there is surface rust I removed it with a wire wheel down to bare metal, Ill prime those spots and all will get 3M undercoat when I finish these panels. My wife to be and two yr old came home the other day after being gone 2 months so didnt get as much garage time in this week.
Oh a suggestion, if you use a wire wheel lying on your back under the car, especially when removing undercoating, dont bother with any safety glasses.....:o
Wear a full size clear flip down face shield:thumbsup:

That's what I was afraid you'd say. I hoped you had a magic answer, but I wasn't holding my breath. Thanks, post pictures, and good luck!

:beers:

H.

On a side note, fixed a 15 yr old door problem! While pondering the loss of our cars once great maker to government ownership after starting on the floor boards I noticed what has been causing me to have to slam my drivers door to get it to shut all the way! Bad Nader pin! Since I got the car around at almost 15 nearly 15 years ago I had just passed off the need to slam the drivers door to get it to shut all the way as a problem I would eventually get too. Checked alignment multiple times, replaced the door latch assembly as it did not move smooth even with lubrication. After cutting on the floor boards I looked next to me and noticed the Nader pin had collar mid shaft that moved excessively as the pin had been worn through the years. Got new pins with the last order of parts and after playing with the alignment...bam! First time in almost 15 years of owning the once shell of a car at 14 that the door shuts all the way with nearly a breeze!

I noticed the "Hotchkis" sticker in one of your photos. Did you buy the Hotchkis premium steering kit, or just the sway bar?

H.

I noticed the "Hotchkis" sticker in one of your photos. Did you buy the Hotchkis premium steering kit, or just the sway bar?

H.

Just the sway bar. I went through DSE for the moog steering parts as they look more original and are good quality. People have been turned away by the Hotchkis premium kit due to its price. The Hotchkis premium steering kit is expensive as their parts have among other things a corrosion protctant as they say. I learned through this site that the original parts were not painted but had what was described as a black oxide appearance. I am trying with my build to get as best functioning machine as posible for the corners, while maintaining as much of an older look as possible with some exceptions.:cool:
I like Hotchkis, have used their parts before and will continue to do so, just not that set up.
Look carefully at what the description of what you get in the Premium Steering kit from Hotchkis. You do not get what you see in the picture.:mad:
If you do want any Hotchkis parts, definetely go through GPSuperstore on here. They are a sponsor but get you a hella good deal on that brand.

Well I have each panel cut pretty closely. One for each front footwell and the tunnel repair patch. I cut out the bad, leaving as much good metal as possible. I then used the cut out metal as a guide, and placed the panels I cut out on the new panels and cut off the new panels what I didnt need leaving en extra inch all the way around. I then placed those rough cut panels in the car, lined up with body lines I left in the car as guides, and then scribed the edge with a straight pick. (Thats what this pick shows, will be flush when done)
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/A%2067%20named%20Nicole/DSCF1106.jpg

After I scribed the edge, I trimmed the panels to the line checking and rechecking as I got close. All panels at this moment seem to have a good flush fit and edges butt up against each other alright.
We'll see when I start welding when I get off work in the morning.

Got the three panels in with a billion spot welds. You can always see where you start a job sober and where you finish after a day of refreshments.:beers:

Ill grind down the welds (made enough extra to feed a steel mill) and how the seems look.

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/A%2067%20named%20Nicole/IMG_0442.jpg

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/A%2067%20named%20Nicole/IMG_0440.jpg

I did have one major #%$!@ up though.....:mad::mad::mad:
I did remove the 40+ year old firewall insulation pad before starting but there was a little piece hiding up around the steering column and while welding.....yeah it caught fire. Had fire on the wrong side of the firewall. Not much but enough to lick through a couple openings and get that paint I just put down. After I removed the bubbled paint this was the damage.

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/A%2067%20named%20Nicole/IMG_0438.jpg

Keep the photos coming. Looks like you are making progress. My job has me travelling a lot right now, so I don't have much time to work on the car, but I'm enjoying watching your project!

H.

Ever used an angle die grinder so much that the head exploded? Guess it happens when you dont give it any breaks grinding down welds. Starting on the Por-15 and seam seals.

On a side note, builds go slower than when I was single, but I have been spending alot of time on her, but its mainly when my two year old is falls asleep at night and or IF he takes a nap during the day. The wife has been great. That said I have wanted to build her something for a while but she has never had a desire for anything. Well, she saw a scout on the road and for the first time she liked something she wanted to cruise in. I looked at some locally, drove down to Mountain View and picked this up. Has the International 345 motor still running and I did like pulling it home with my International powered 7.3l diesel. (Best part is I get to practice painting it before my car:D) I from NorCal and she is from NC so she asked for Tarheel blue:beers:

I noticed after I pulled the kick panels that the lower driver side door hinge reciever (what the hinge bolts thread into) has began to pull away at the bottom corner. I cant find any old spot welds in that corner. Anyone ever had this?

Yes... When I was replacing my lower door hinge pillars, I noticed that one of them just about fell off by itself. I had to drill out the other four spot welds though. It's just another example of the state of the art quality control they had back then. :D

Here's what it looks like when removed...

I bet you just had a spot weld that was not on-target from the factory. You can simply either run a bead along the side of it or tack it in more securely.... or you can drill out a 1/4" hole for a plug weld and get it done that way...

or they missed it, one of my trunk hinges had 1 spotweld the other side had 4... to the package tray

Thank you very much!!!
Im at work today, off for one tomorrow and then back at work for another 48hrs so probably wont get to it till Thurs or Fri. If I get to do anything tomorrow it'll be the floors. I really wanted to have the sub back in and the new motor between the rails for the cars birthday this week but I know thats not gonna happen.

Couldnt stand seeing the bad paint on the firewall from the pad that caught fire so I prepped the area and reshot the wall.

Some undercoating on and starting on Dynamat after the POR-15 cured. With the great write ups on here and with learning new things through this site, I would have with the mats from secondskin but I got a really good deal on the Dynamat, and I have seen it do a decent job before.

I have been waiting for this for a long time and I couldnt wait any longer....

great thread, keep up the good work !
this gives me an idea of what i am still having to go though... :eek:

great thread, keep up the good work !
this gives me an idea of what i am still having to go though... :eek:


With this forum, you will get more help and advice then you ever realized you can use. Whenever you have a question, it wont take long to get an answer. There are a lot of really nice members on here and always willing to help out.
Just take your time and dont get frustrated, seems like every couple parts orders, one item will go back. On its way back right now are the valve covers, (Those ones are a pain to cleanly route plug wires) breathers, and pushrods that gave me the wrong rocker geometry.
Always keep frustration in check and :D

Sharp car Kevan.:thumbsup:

Wow, great thread!!...i really enjoy watching the progress!!

Thanks Doug, love the clean job on the Nova! You've got me thinking ahead about my fuel regulator!

Thanks Doug, love the clean job on the Nova! You've got me thinking ahead about my fuel regulator!


That Camaro is going to be a beast when you get done with it Kevan!:yes:

Nice looking car,, like the improvements!!

Hey Kevan,

i was wondering. did you do anything at the inside of the frame ?

Hey Kevan,

i was wondering. did you do anything at the inside of the frame ?

Inside the box of the frame? No, but that was the best about powdercoating, they can get a good coating on 99% of the frame. They said the last 1% has a coating just not as thick. I extended an extension onto my extention mirror, looked inside and could not find any bare metal. The guys I used came very highly recommended, but that is one of the benefits of powdercoating over paint. (But thats a whole other topic:stirpot:) If you are asking if I did anything for improving the strength? No. I checked all welds after removing, I didnt want to solid weld the whole frame. I dont like doing things to this car that I could never change back to original) Frame connectors will be added when I get to the rear suspension shortly. (I need to spend money on those besides myself during this time of year:thumbsup:)

This was paid for a while ago and is now here! I will be more than happy to be the test bunny for members of TC!
I cannot say how well the workmanship on this carb is. Pics suck and do it no justice. With the amount of duration and overlap of my cam, and number of cubes, on paper this gives me the best of the worlds I want.http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/smiley-transport006.gif (http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys.php)

Inside the box of the frame? No, but that was the best about powdercoating, they can get a good coating on 99% of the frame. They said the last 1% has a coating just not as thick. I extended an extension onto my extention mirror, looked inside and could not find any bare metal.

Frame connectors will be added when I get to the rear suspension shortly. (I need to spend money on those besides myself during this time of year:thumbsup:)

ok, thanks for the extra info about the coating.

indeed, don't forget about your other loved ones :)

I noticed you are putting in a big block heater core. But when you painted the firewall it still had the small block heater core. When you remove the small block heater core there will be 2 holes in the firewall. Should that have been welded up also.

Oh yea great job also.

I noticed you are putting in a big block heater core. But when you painted the firewall it still had the small block heater core. When you remove the small block heater core there will be 2 holes in the firewall. Should that have been welded up also.

Oh yea great job also.

I painted a BB heater core cover at the same time I painted the firewall. I thought that those holes were in the firewall reguardless of what size heater core was to be installed. The firewall holes are different between a sb and bb? I really should have asked that earlier.

I painted a BB heater core cover at the same time I painted the firewall. I thought that those holes were in the firewall reguardless of what size heater core was to be installed. The firewall holes are different between a sb and bb? I really should have asked that earlier.

There is a piece of dense foam that goes between the inner heater box and the firewall that will cover those holes. That is the way the factory did it anyway.

I've got that piece of foam. Thanks Doug! Ill untie the slipknot I was just getting ready to tie for myself.

Got my new shop pal.
He is actually a suprise Christmas present for my wife. She has wanted one for a while but I wanted to wait till our baby boy was a little older. My wife and I both had full grown Mastiffs when we met. I named him Muncie. She will be home after Christmas so you guys are one of the only ones I get to tell cause she wont check here!:thumbsup:

He is the one closest to the camera.

I've got that piece of foam. Thanks Doug! Ill untie the slipknot I was just getting ready to tie for myself.


LOL. No problem.

Nice dog and one heck of a car (despite the wind wings)!

Nice dog and one heck of a car (despite the wind wings)!

Hey...Vent window pride!:D

Car looks great. You are going to have one nice car on your hands when you are done.:thumbsup:

Been a while since I added some pics. Some has been more labor intensive, some has been slow since my family came home. I've been dialing in the motors accessories, ignition system, and pushrod geometry. After debating headers, I ordered a set of Lemons. Dan Lemon is a great guy to work with and I plan to order from him from now on anytime funds allow.
The Lee built 670 steering box from the outside is a work of art, and I know that more attention has been paid to its inside.
The new bead blaster cabinet made quick work of restoring the heater box.

Great thread and progress.
Please don't take this the wrong way, but Nicole is one sexy lady :yes:

Nice job Kevan. Hey, I got a Muncie too. Christmas present for my wife but I got to name him!! Reason.... it was either him or a new gearset and rebuld kit for the real Muncie. She won! I've heard nothing but good things about Dan. He's just up the road from me down here on the Central Coast in wine country. Keep up the good work. Maybe the rain will let up for awhile and I can go out and sand away on mine. Getting motivated again looking at everyone's progress. Don't think I'll have it ready for HAN.

Robert

Nice job Kevan. Hey, I got a Muncie too. Christmas present for my wife but I got to name him!! Reason.... it was either him or a new gearset and rebuld kit for the real Muncie. She won! I've heard nothing but good things about Dan. He's just up the road from me down here on the Central Coast in wine country. Keep up the good work. Maybe the rain will let up for awhile and I can go out and sand away on mine. Getting motivated again looking at everyone's progress. Don't think I'll have it ready for HAN.

Robert

Thank You for the compliments. Good looking dog. I loved riding pismo beach, wish I got to see more of San Luis Obispo. I'd like to move south if our dept switches work schedules in the future.

Putting in the dash pad now, before its all buttoned up though, I have to do the column, its seen here: http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=176382

:pout:Been waiting on steering column parts then of course deciding I shouldnt use them after I get them. It seems like when I refinish the column and it goes in then I can finish the firewall pad, then the heater box, along with the heater core cover. I really want that firewall sealed, just to see it done I guess but its bugging the crap out of me.
Something showed up today, and I am glad I was home from work to meet the UPS truck...this one would have been a tough sell to the wife to be. A buddy and I pulled the tranny today on the Scout project I got for her so at least she knows I want that on the road for her.
But what showed up today to be put on Nicole?.........
Spend 1950.00 and get a free T-Shirt:hurray:
Cant wait till I get of work Saturday morning because these are getting unwrapped and the last of the column parts are scheduled to arrive that day as well.

I know what you mean Kevan. I too, sometimes, plan for deliveries to be when the wife is at work!! lmao Shhhhh...
I wish I was as far along as you. This cold weather around here is killing me. Cold...58. Sorry guys, we live in California!! lol Just need to get out there and start sanding on her. She will be painted this summer.

Robert

I know Robert, I'm over this repeating occasional rain. We get teased with a week of Sun then a day of down pour? Blows.
I wiped the headers down and mocked them up. They look and feel great so far. No dents or dings necessary, Dan is a great guy to work with. Even got my lil man to help pop bubble wrap with me.

That is one purrrty motor there. I was wondering why the headers looked to be in so many pieces in the box. Now I see. Thanks for the pics. Mystery solved.
We just received over an inch of rain in less than 24 hours. Not bad for Cali.

Robert

That is one purrrty motor there. I was wondering why the headers looked to be in so many pieces in the box. Now I see. Thanks for the pics. Mystery solved.
We just received over an inch of rain in less than 24 hours. Not bad for Cali.

Robert

Yeah, its what Lemons calls their "Race" version. The primaries are individual and a matching collector slides in place. I just didnt have time to get to the collectors before finishing the day.

Here are some pics of my column I just rebuilt. Delayed putting it in till I did the headers just for the additional room. I tried to detail the rebuild in as best I could, its in the "steering" section of the forum.

Got the steering column in, some new misc parts on the way to go in place before the heater box, in the mean time I did a mild restore on a tool box with my wife!
The first shop owner I worked for gave me a rusted dirty roller that was taking up space to him. He said he only knew it was a 1967 Snap-On, a Snap-On rep looked at the number on the back and agreed. I knew I'd restore it to match my 67' Camaro.
Got the original color paint from the Snap-On truck, sanded and primed and painted and almost done. My wife got in on it. She block sanded and is in the pics steel wooling the aluminum roll up door of the tool box. When I took the pics she had the top half of the door done.

Camaro is progressing great! Nice work!:thumbsup:

Camaro is progressing great! Nice work!:thumbsup:


Thanks Doug! I cant find the thread from when you were finishing up your BB? Did you fire it up yet?

I just pulled the original front speaker, I still love it with any classic car when you get to pull a part that you can tell has never been touched since the factory. Tried out an original wheel I picked up, the guy that sold it thought it was a 67 wheel but its a 68, looking for the correct 67 chrome spokes now.

That is an original 67 steering wheel. Unless it's date stamped or something that says otherwise... my 67 RS has the exact same steering wheel and it is original to the car which was manufactured in November of 66. Nice find... looks like it's in great condition :thumbsup:

That is an original 67 steering wheel. Unless it's date stamped or something that says otherwise... my 67 RS has the exact same steering wheel and it is original to the car which was manufactured in November of 66. Nice find... looks like it's in great condition :thumbsup:

Thanks! But if you look at the wheel in the pic, the spokes have a brushed flat look to them as did in 68. The 67's were chrome. I remember reading that they changed the law after 67 allowing how much chrome could be in front of the driver for visibility purposes.
Are yours chrome or flat?

Ahhhh... I see what you mean. Sometimes it's hard to tell if it is just old/dirty or a trick of the camera. Mine are chrome. Yours looked chrome too at first glance. Great bit of info by the way... I did not know about the chrome thing. Would polishing them make them look more correct, or are they so scuffed that that might be impossible?

Ahhhh... I see what you mean. Sometimes it's hard to tell if it is just old/dirty or a trick of the camera. Mine are chrome. Yours looked chrome too at first glance. Great bit of info by the way... I did not know about the chrome thing. Would polishing them make them look more correct, or are they so scuffed that that might be impossible?

No I cant polish them to look chrome. That'd be sweet though!:D

those headers look super sweat ! downside is that pricetag.

couldn't help noticing, what engine mounts are you using ?


that 67 snap-on toolbox is a great collectors item !

the steering wheel looks the same as my 67.
can't really say if mine is chrome. looks so, but it's a bit grubby...

is it really impossible to polish is ? it won't be real chrome, but it will be very close.

ps. i'm working on my 67 as we speak. the front end is off. the motor is ready to be pulled.
most of the sheet metal is in reasonble bad shape.
the body itself has some rust, but haven't found anything rusted through just yet.

those headers look super sweat ! downside is that pricetag.

couldn't help noticing, what engine mounts are you using ?


that 67 snap-on toolbox is a great collectors item !

the steering wheel looks the same as my 67.
can't really say if mine is chrome. looks so, but it's a bit grubby...

is it really impossible to polish is ? it won't be real chrome, but it will be very close.

ps. i'm working on my 67 as we speak. the front end is off. the motor is ready to be pulled.
most of the sheet metal is in reasonble bad shape.
the body itself has some rust, but haven't found anything rusted through just yet.


Hey thanks Tim! The headers are expensive as far as headers go, but they are worth it. The quality and design is amazing. From ground clearance to metal thickness and customer care that I expirienced with Dan Lemons, I'll do it anytime funds allow.

The engine mounts are bb pedestals and Energy Suspension Polyurethane mounts.
I looked at the pics of your mount situation, are the original holes for the pedestals still there in the frame? Looks like the welds can be cleaned up.

The treering spokes are brushed on a 68, changed from chrome on 67. This was due to an anti-glare law that was passed after 67 limiting the amount of chrome that was allowed in the drivers view. I know that I could have the spokes I have chromed, but its a good quality 68 steering wheel center and I dont want to ruin an original part for someone that needs an original 68 part. I'll wait till I find one. I'd rather search for a year for an original part, that buy some repo piece.
Maybe its just me, but any car I've done, (Nicole was my first car ever by the way) I love driving a car that is vintage, not just looks vintage. Of course when it comes to safety you may need to take a different approach. You cant comprimise safety in a performance vehicle.
Nothing against repo quality which has gotten better for our cars over the past decade but its so easy to toss an original part in the trash and order a new one through a catalog or internet.
To anyone who takes the extra time and effort to bring an original part back from the brink...:bow:
Post more pics of your build Tim and thanks!:D

The engine mounts are bb pedestals and Energy Suspension Polyurethane mounts.

I looked at the pics of your mount situation, are the original holes for the pedestals still there in the frame? Looks like the welds can be cleaned up.

This was due to an anti-glare law that was passed after 67 limiting the amount of chrome that was allowed in the drivers view.

do those mounts sit higher perhaps ?
they look seriously high...

about my engine mount, i think the holes are somewhere underneath.
i will be grinding everything away... gently. ;)
as soon as i find a way to bolt the load leveler to the engine...

to be honest, the glare can be anoying sometimes:)

do those mounts sit higher perhaps ?
they look seriously high...

about my engine mount, i think the holes are somewhere underneath.
i will be grinding everything away... gently. ;)
as soon as i find a way to bolt the load leveler to the engine...

to be honest, the glare can be anoying sometimes:)

Dark sunglasses for the glare bud!:cool:
California:D (The weather I mean)
The tall mounts, are you talking about the motor mounts or the pedestals?

If you find your original holes it will make it easier in placing your engine in the correct spot.

The tall mounts, are you talking about the motor mounts or the pedestals?

If you find your original holes it will make it easier in placing your engine in the correct spot.

the pedestals. first time i have seen these.

i hope to find at least 2 original holes

could you give me some advice on hoisting my engine ?
i have a cherry picker i presume they call it in the us and a load leveler.
what bolts should i use to fix the leveler to the engine.
is was going to use bolts that come from the new engine to bolt the trans
to it, but these are to long to insert completely in the heads.
and i presume the shorter bolts from accessories haven't got the right tensile strenght...

Just as long as you have a good amount of bolt thread depth of the bolts going into the accessory holes you'll be fine. The SBC is not that heavy. Just make sure that the bolt heads cant pull through the chain links.

Been slow lately, after three sets, plug wires cut and routed, heater stuff wrapped up. Finally able to move around without crutches but this cast still sucks for mobility.

The wife and our son are out of town to get ready for our wedding...so perfect time to bring the rotors inside the living room, through em on the coffe table for some safety wire with some car flicks. First one to name the movie on the tv gets a :beers:
This is my first time threading saftey wire, if anyone has any tips please Im all ears.
The torx bolts that bolt the hub to the inner rotor, you cant run the wire around the side of those because it has a bevel with no flat side like the hex bolts that bolt the outer rotor to the inner rotor. It seems like running them straight through the center will hold the wire taught the best. But like I said if anyone has any advice please let me know thanks:D

Two Lane Blacktop?

:beers:

It wasn't one of my favorite movies, but how can you not love a Orbit Orange '70 Judge?

Very nice build.

I used hooker headers coated by jet hot, no where even in the same league as your Lemons. One day one of my a-arm bolts vibrated off. I guess it wasnt tight enough, my bad. The a-arm crushed the header on the drivers side. So I bought another new set of headers from Jet Hot and I just dinged them up when I was trying to adjust the camber on my front alignment. :mad::mad::mad: Brand new headers, again.. I feel so stupid but at least this is just cosmetic. :o

I have some SPC (from SC&C) uppers coming in now that promise more header clearance. You might want to watch out when your doing your alignment with those stock arms.

Very nice build.

You might want to watch out when your doing your alignment with those stock arms.

Thank you! I may change the arms in the future. I have learned even with offset shafts and tall ball joints that stock arms really do hold back getting good geometry. I am trying to go for what Im calling a "Tribute build"
Everything visible looks stock on the interior, wheel wells stock, leafs in the rear, but overkill on the motor. We'll see how it works out. Trying to get a balance between the worlds of straight line driving, corner carving, and okay streetability is what Im trying to do. Those are all different worlds and to be a master of one the ride has to be commited to that one, but hey, we'll see what happens!:beers:

I have not posted on my build thread in a while. I regret that I slowed down on Nicole since the end of last summer. It was because since selling my hot rodded diesel I had been going crazy driving around town in my wifes Xterra or the 90's car that I drive to work in.
I had been trying to get this 57 Cadillac for a while and at the end of last summer the Caddy owner reoffered it for sale. I had to do some work to get the Cad streetable, but I knew I could get it done quicker than getting Nicole back on the road. Im just happy to be back behind the wheel again of an old car.
Now I just hope I dont have to sell the Cad as my dads house may be going under. But I can never get rid of Nicole.
Progress has since resumed and I'll post some new pics.

Welcome back Kevan. :beers: It has been awhile. Now that is one mean looking garage! :yes: I see you changed your screen name once more. Looking forward to some progress pics.
As for me, I'm getting ready to tear into my quarters. I'll be starting a thread soon. Most likely I'll put it the pro-touring. I too haven't been working on her much. But I'm missing out on the fun of driving her so I'm out of excuses.

Robert

Hey Kevan, I'm Jason, incredible build man :thumbsup: I see you are looking for T56, a friend of mine has one he was trying to sell to me but i have a tko500. want me to find out details for you?

Hey Kevan, I'm Jason, incredible build man :thumbsup: I see you are looking for T56, a friend of mine has one he was trying to sell to me but i have a tko500. want me to find out details for you?

Thank you Jason, it's nice to meet you and that is very nice of you. I believe at this point I am going with that new magnum series of the t56. I have got thing with keisler lined out but I'm waiting till my dads house situation is more certain before I pull the trigger.

Welcome back Kevan. :beers: It has been awhile. Now that is one mean looking garage! :yes: I see you changed your screen name once more. Looking forward to some progress pics.
As for me, I'm getting ready to tear into my quarters. I'll be starting a thread soon. Most likely I'll put it the pro-touring. I too haven't been working on her much. But I'm missing out on the fun of driving her so I'm out of excuses.

Robert

Thank you Robert, with as much help as I started getting from my three year old out in the garage and the shop I just had to give him title credits!

Nice fresshen up of the caddys engine bay. Is that carb C.A.R.B. certified? LOL....
Like the pic of the boy standing in front of the cars, I believe your going to have your hands full.

Moving out to the rear as I needed to finish the undercoating at the rear but didnt want to do that until I pulled the old leafs out. But before doing that I wanted to take care of this...
The trunk pan for the most part was in decent shape, just pin holes in the flat area and rot where it meets the wheel wells.

I cut out the bad stuff at the wheel wells but I can not find those pics right now anywhere! Here it is after I welded in new steel and put down POR 15. I hadn't realized that the almost empty can I had started with was semi gloss and the next can I picked up to finish was flat. Also a couple pics as I was doing the undercoating at the rear. Really nice how the flash of a camera lets you see the thin areas.

Seam sealed where the trunk pan meets the wheel wells, and in these pics the clear coat on the splatter paint is drying.
This is about where I'm up to at the moment. With the exception that I put 3" drop Hotchkis leafs in the rear but they need some small final adjustments before I can be happy. I just need the intermintant Northern California rain to go away!

Thank you Jason, it's nice to meet you and that is very nice of you. I believe at this point I am going with that new magnum series of the t56. I have got thing with keisler lined out but I'm waiting till my dads house situation is more certain before I pull the trigger.

ok good deal man! I bet thats going to be killer!:yes:

The trunk looks awesome Kevan. I'll be doing some homemade mini tubs for mine and will be doing the same thing to the trunk area to hide all of my hacking!
What's up with the 3" drops? What do you need to do to them? I have the 1 1/2" but haven't installed them yet. I was thinking I'll need to move the shocks inward and was looking at the DSE lower shock plates. I don't know if I can use the stock ones and flip them around some how. Keep the pics coming.

Robert

I have not posted on my build thread in a while. I regret that I slowed down on Nicole since the end of last summer. It was because since selling my hot rodded diesel I had been going crazy driving around town in my wifes Xterra or the 90's car that I drive to work in.
I had been trying to get this 57 Cadillac for a while and at the end of last summer the Caddy owner reoffered it for sale. I had to do some work to get the Cad streetable, but I knew I could get it done quicker than getting Nicole back on the road. Im just happy to be back behind the wheel again of an old car.
Now I just hope I dont have to sell the Cad as my dads house may be going under. But I can never get rid of Nicole.
Progress has since resumed and I'll post some new pics.

Cool Kevan, those Caddy's are becoming very popular. And that little guy is a hoot (great pic):thumbsup: You going to have one bad Camaro for sure when it's done.

The trunk looks awesome Kevan. I'll be doing some homemade mini tubs for mine and will be doing the same thing to the trunk area to hide all of my hacking!
What's up with the 3" drops? What do you need to do to them? I have the 1 1/2" but haven't installed them yet. I was thinking I'll need to move the shocks inward and was looking at the DSE lower shock plates. I don't know if I can use the stock ones and flip them around some how. Keep the pics coming.

Robert


No the leafs went in okay but I was in a rush to scoot her from one side of the garage to the other, so larger holes are required in the rear end leaf plates and I hadnt drilled them. The other thing is that the new bolt clips that come with the kit are somewhat of a pain to get in place and I know for sure one is not secured right. I'll be fixing it soon enough as it looks like I will be selling the Caddy.

Well I didnt want to but it looks like I sold the Cadillac. The good news is the trans has been ordered and Nicole will be closer to rejoining the pavement.

Sorry about the Caddy. Good news about the tranny!! :beers:
I need to get going and get some pics up on my build thread. I just got the SPC uppers. So I need to get out there now that the rain is gone and temps are going to be near 80 down here.

Robert

Sorry about the Caddy. Good news about the tranny!! :beers:
I need to get going and get some pics up on my build thread. I just got the SPC uppers. So I need to get out there now that the rain is gone and temps are going to be near 80 down here.

Robert


I know Rob, today was the first real day of sun we have had in what seems like a month! Supposed to be 80 deg all week so all day today I made some progress on the Scout Im building for the wife. The Caddy is supposed to be picked up on Wed, the trans is supoosed to arrive in a little more than a week...:hurray:

Well, still waiting on the transmission. I ordered everything that sits between the back of the block and the front of the rear dif. They have given me a few different reasons for the delay. Ill just be happy when it arrives.
Today though, look what arrived, keep engine cool stuff, new fuel tank, fuel pump stuff and a few odds and ends. The Cadillac was not lost in vain.

Rad looks good so far. Whoever BeCool gets their bolts from does a horrible job at cutting the threads. Half of the bolts had threads so bad they would not work.
The rad support was dusty, but it still had the fresh powder coat from when I had it done along with the frame and other parts.
The rad support bushings have quiet a bit of clearance, I centered them and just snugged em in case I need to fine tune when the fenders go back on. I hope it doenst have to move towards the engine when the fenders go back on because the fans clear the water pump pulley by a fraction of an inch.

You can see the wifes Scout has kept me busy as well. That thing has been all welding and grinding this past week.

Still looking good Kevan. :beers: That is a tight fit.
That Scout will be a blast. I want to get my wife a older Jeep or a Cobra (her choices)for around town driving. You can guess which one I'm leaning torward! lol

Robert

Yeah, I hear you Rob...she picked the Scout as her summer cruiser.

Its here!
Well most of it anyways. I have to call them once again on monday. I really try to be fair in life and do whats right. I am not going to vendor bash but I will say for the benefit of the rest of you all, that if you are ever in the market for this style of trans, I would based on my personal expirience with this order have to recommend you buy from someone other than who I went through. That is based entirely on their customer service and not based on their product. That so far appears good. If the order was messed up once, that would be one thing, but multiple screw ups? Im not going to bash, but if anyone wants any info on my experience so they might avoid future pains please pm me.

I'm still jealous! :yes: Sorry for the troubles you're experiencing. hopefully it will be worth it in the end! :beers: I posted in the tranny forum... my thoughts.

I'm still jealous! :yes: Sorry for the troubles you're experiencing. hopefully it will be worth it in the end! :beers: I posted in the tranny forum... my thoughts.

They were good thoughts and I agree!:beers: I hope your order is a good one!

Mods could you please move this to the new build thread section? I have not posted in a while as I have expirienced nothing but problems with the transmission. I will post the results when we have the situation corrected.

Did you send them a PM? Mine was moved in no time.
Sorry about the problems... again. Looking forward to reading what you have to say. I'm sooo far from a tranny. Nice to see you back here.

Thanks Rob, good to be back! I will post all of the transmission issues when I am at a conclusion to the problem. In the mean time if you or anyone else are getting ready for a T-56 and I have not yet posted the rest of this expirience please pm me.

Okay, the Transmission is in and here is my hopefully FINAL REPORT of the T-56 package from Keisler.
Please keep in mind, I am not slamming anybody, or any company. This is intended to inform those looking to install a T-56 Magnum of what to look for, what may need to be done, and what you need to verify when ordering.
Evidently my install discovered some problems with their Perfect Fit T-56 package, we all learned from it, and I believe Keisler will take steps to correct any future problems with this setup for future customers.

Here is my previous report as of May 12, 2011:
After delays in shipping my complete T-56 trans order, it finally showed up with some missing parts. After the estimated ship date came and went, I called, they said that some parts were on backorder. I stated that when I went over every item when placing the order they said that each part was in stock. He said that was when you placed the order, now some are on back order. I asked if they could just then ship the trans now and send the other parts when they are available? They said no problem. A week later nothing. I call and they say they are waiting on a part that is on back order. I just hung the phone up. It arrives two weeks later, no bell housing which they said they were waiting on, no clutch installation tool, no pilot bearing. When I called about the bell housing, they state that they have the incorrect part number for the bell that is on back order. The one I originally ordered is in stock on their shelf. They state that they will two day air it to me. I am very grateful for that and think these guys are alright! But then it arrives a week later via UPS ground. When I ask about the missing pilot bearing and clutch installation tool when I notice they are missing, they state that they will two day air them. I said what ended up happening with the bell, they say they let someone else complete that order for shipping. This guy will personally take care of it. These parts do arrive via two day air. This guy who came through was named Ben and I thank him! These guys SEEM like good guys and I would like to keep using them in the future as it seems they put out good products. My trans is not in yet, and fingers are crossed that I dont discover that I have some incorrect parts. I just finished dialing in the bell with offset bushings, but when mating the bell to the trans, I found that some grinding needs to be done on the bell. I called to make sure the bell was correct before grinding. They said it is and some just need grinding. No big deal. I went in detail on this not to bash them at all. But just so others, before placing an order, can have an idea of some things they can pay attention to during the process of their order. Like I said, they SEEM like good guys. There may be some current internal communication problems but no one is perfect.

So here is the final report as of today:
The pilot bearing that was sent, ended up being useless after the transmission was installed because the input shaft did not reach the pilot bearing. You can see from these pics that after the first install, everything sits too far back.

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_1035.jpg

The crossmember could not line up with the mount holes on the frame.

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_1027.jpg

This was because the crossmember would hit the rear of the trans before the crossmember would line up with the frame holes.

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_1039.jpg

At this point lets review what we are working with. The car is a 1967 Camaro, the subframe is stock and unmodified, the motor mounts are stock BBC mounts, and the engine is a Dart BIG M 540 which has the same block dimensions as a standard Mark IV big block Chevy engine. The trans package being installed is T-56 Magnum Perfect Fit Kit from Keisler.

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_1550.jpg

When I informed Keisler of what I had found, they said they had just become aware of this problem and verified it two weeks before I called letting them know what was going on. They were unsure what was causing this problem and did not know why after sending out an estimated 80+ packages, they had just become aware of fitment problems. They assured that the manufacturing process had not changed and thought maybe slight crossmember modification would be the only thing required.

Here is where things got a little hectic for a minute. The person I spoke with on the phone, was nice enough to get blunt and honest. (Which I like very much actually) He stated that he believed the company, while heavily involved with the T-56, would be focusing more on their RS transmission and he did not think they had the time or ability to make a new crossmember. Especially since only one other person besides myself had reported this problem. That changed when I contacted the company owner Shafi Keisler.

I exhanged some emails and phone calls with Mr. Keisler. This is what we concluded. At the time of my transmission order, I wanted an explosion proof steel bellhousing, but they where out of stock. I asked them to send another that they have that they recomend. They sent their 621 Aluminum Bell Housing which is their reproduction of the stock aluminum bell that came on our cars. This bell has thicker than stock aluminum, and had to use a steel adapter plate. Because of this, the trans sat far enough back that the crossmember would not line up, the trans input shaft did not reach the pilot bearing, and the shifter hole would need to be trimmed to allow shifter travel.

So we could either:
A: Modify the crossmember, cut open the shifter hole, remove the trans and install a different pilot bearing.
Or
B: Remove the trans and install the more shallow steel bell.

The bell seemed to be at the heart of the problem. From my best measurements, the center section of the crossmember needed to be cut and moved rearwards 1.35" The depth difference between the 621 bell with adapter plate, and the steel bell with no adapter plate was about 1.25" I just hoped it would be enough. You can see the difference here:

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_1548.jpg

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_1546.jpg

After I changed the bell, I verified that the input shaft reached the pilot bearing, the shifter was in a better location but would still require trimming to the hole. I REALLY hated cutting the floor.

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_1572.jpg

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_1575.jpg

The crossmember still just barely hit the rear of the trans before lining up with the holes on the frame. This was that .10" that I accounted for earlier. Now on their crossmember there is some metal that makes an overhang, extendind past the verticle sides of the crossmember, I maybe could have gotten away with grinding this overhang off to make the verticle side of the crossmember facing the rear of the trans smooth and possibly gaining enough clearance, but wanted to make sure I had enough to remove any chance of metal to metal vibrating.
I cut off that verticle side, trimmed out .20", welded it back up, then ground the side flush.

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_1579.jpg

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_1581.jpg

Keisler was unaware of this fitment problem with this combo for two reasons.
1: Their crossmember was made using an LS engine for fitment, which does not sit as far rearward as a BBC.
2: They did not take into account problems that may occurr when using the much thicker 621 bell with adapter plate. If you use this bell you must makes sure you have the correct pilot bearing and account for the deeper bell and adapter plate.

The only time I really got frustrated was when they said they did not think they could make the replacement crossmember. Like I said, after speaking with Shafi, that all changed. They seem like good people and were probably real busy getting their new RS trans ready. I hope this helps anyone looking to install a T-56 Magnum. If any questions before you order please PM me.
Good luck!
Kev

Kevan thank you for your honesty and positive outlook on this ugly situation... Ive been calling Keisler for a list of parts for the perfect fit kit and leaving PM's to Keisler members with no response once so ever...

I ended up with the help of some members here on going with Liberty Gears for all the modified updated on the TKO600 and they call me, Paul is very helpful at Liberty and he takes pride and knowledge in his work... Also out sourcing to the Quick Time Bell, Mc Loud clutch set up and the X-Factor crossmemeber.

I just gave up with Keisler service and the no response and they were doubting there own product with no positive experience on the kits... I'm very happy you figured out the problem for Keisler, but it was totally unnecessary.

Thanks for the good words Skip. Glad you got your trans taken care of. Sorry to hear you had an not so great expirience as well.

I had similar fitment issues with my crossmember as well. I bought their 621 bell just so I wouldn't have any bellhousing runout issues since it is guaranteed to be within .003". As for the crossmember... it just didnt fit. I attributed it to the difference in tailhousings between the standard T56 and the Magnum. Mine was about .75 - 1" off and I was not about to drill new holes in my subframe. I was told I could modify it by notching it out but that defeated the purpose of purchasing the "perfect" fit kit to begin with. Once I got fed up and was told about the xfactor crossmember, I purchased it and everything went together perfectly. I was told that there was a new crossmember was in the works but that it wasn't a high priority and would not be done any time soon. It does suck to spend a ton of $$$ on one of these kits and have fitment issues during installation but my motto is "live and learn, die and forget it all".

The T56 has changed my car for the better and I do not regret the upgrade at all but if anyone wants my unsensored feedback/recommendation prior to conducting a similar upgrade feel free to PM me as well.

Nice going Brian, I did not know about the X-Factor crossmember until afterwards. Im sorry you had problems as well. I cant believe the problems that had I left the 621 bell in place, I could have started the engine and engaged a trans input shaft that was not even touching the pilot bearing. I really hated enlarging the shifter hole in the original sheetmetal. As nice as they were helping correct this problem, Im afraid they really should change the "Perfect Fit" kit name.

New fuel tank and sending unit are in except for a couple clamps.

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_1658.jpg

I should begin mocking up fuel delivery soon.

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_1664.jpg

On side note, I had a couple of things that I really wanted framed but just like our cars, I wanted to do it my self. So I got the frames, mat material and a couple mat knives.

What do you guys think?
One is the front page section of our paper last summer that shows me holding our son over an engine as we talk about it.

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_1327.jpg

The other is an original poster for the opening day of the last season of Lions race track.

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_1328.jpg

In reguards to the t-56 Magnum fitment issues. Shafi Keisler just contacted me asking how it turned out with this bell. I let him know and sent him the pictures. He said they will make a different crossmember with the pictures and measurements I gave him, then send it to me to use as a test fit. It looks like they are trying to fix this issue, and if they do I thank them.

The rear quarter window guides stripped clean and clear coated, broken rollers replaced:

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_1832.jpg

I love rolling these windows with one hand!:yes:

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_1835.jpg


My son getting his time in on his 1932 Cadillac Flathead. Pretty cool
aluminum block with bolt on iron cylinders:

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_1750.jpg

Came across a deal and picked up a first gen Hemi that I'll get on after the Camaro and Scout are done. I'd like to put it in a early Ford roadster:


http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_1837.jpg

Well I really want to get the interior back in, so I need to run the wiring to the rear of Nicole first. So to get an an idea of were the wiring should go first I need to through together a box for the subs.
As common as these trunks are, there are no decent boxes made for these trunks. I thought of making one from scratch but I think I'll modify one.
I've got my lil helper all ready...
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2171.jpg

Here is one we ordered online. Its for a Jeep, but its dimensions are as close as I can find to start.
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2176.jpg

First, after figuring out exactly where it would go and which side would face down, I marked the spot on the box where it would hit the spare tire bracket that is on the trunk floor and routed it out. This box uses 3/4" MDF wood and the tire/jack bracket is just under 3/4" in height so I didn't have to make a complete hole. I will still reinforce the backside of it.

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2201.jpg

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2204.jpg


Next I start removing the carpet on the sides I don't want it on.

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2206.jpg


I glued an additional 3/4" MDF sheet to the top and rear sides, then beveled the edges with a dremel.

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2245.jpg

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2246.jpg

Looks good Kevan. Brent (67Rally) just built one from scratch. He's been down this road before with stereo installs! You can check it out here...http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=173910&page=32

Any questions about the install, he's a wealth of information! :)

I've been slacking. No excuses... well I have to do the honey-do's! :)

Lining it up where I want it, and marking out where the lines in the trunk floor will transfer up on the rear and top of the sub box.

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2257.jpg


To get the lines with the width and radius I want I found the large sanding drum for the dremel (Same one I used to bevel the edges) is a great fit. I just took the foot on the dremel, cut the face of it till it had the angle I wanted, then just sunk the bit, rode along a fence and tried to keep it on the road!

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2267.jpg


Just need to cut and add wood strips to match the center rib of the trunk.

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2289.jpg


I know the center rib looks offset, but it is how the original trunk floors are.

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2292.jpg

Wow! I really like that a lot. Looks great! :thumbsup: I might have to pick your brain too?

Painted the same aqua/green splatter paint to match the trunk, amp is mounted.

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2300.jpg


Subs are in...

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2299.jpg


Just need to make the holding brackets and finally get to run my wiring from front to rear so I can get the interior back in!

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2304.jpg

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2307.jpg

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2308.jpg

What do you guys think? Any suggestions?

Wow! I really like that a lot. Looks great! :thumbsup: I might have to pick your brain too?

Thanks Rob! I just try to keep up with you!:beers:

Looks good Kevan. Brent (67Rally) just built one from scratch. He's been down this road before with stereo installs! You can check it out here...http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=173910&page=32

Any questions about the install, he's a wealth of information! :)

I've been slacking. No excuses... well I have to do the honey-do's! :)


Thanks for the link, I had thought for a while about having the subs facing rearward or forward. Went with forward facing. Final test will be how it sounds!

Hey Kevan your quarter windows look good. Can you give me some pointers on how you did them? I have my quarter panel off right now so access to that window area is a breeze! I have all new hardware too.
Thanks.

Hey Kevan your quarter windows look good. Can you give me some pointers on how you did them? I have my quarter panel off right now so access to that window area is a breeze! I have all new hardware too.
Thanks.

No prob! You'll want those rear inner door panels off to help you out with your adjustments. Your nuts that hold the guides in place all face the interior. The removal and install will go a lot faster than the adjustments you may have to make to get it just right.
I unbolted the guide from the car and unbolted the regulator. Pulled the regulator and guide out, remove the rubber piece at the top of the door jamb that is held in by two screws, then pulled the window out the top. I'm sure it will be easier without your quarter on!
You can see in the pic on post #129 the window guide after I wire wheeled the nearly half century crud off, then clear coated the guide.
You can also see in the pic there is a socket I modified to make the tool to remove the rollers. I just took spare crap socket with an outside diameter that matched the oval holes in the flat nuts holding the rollers, then ground it down on a bench grinder so two stubs were remaing. Put that socket in a ratchet and it worked perfect!

No prob! You'll want those rear inner door panels off to help you out with your adjustments. Your nuts that hold the guides in place all face the interior. The removal and install will go a lot faster than the adjustments you may have to make to get it just right.
I unbolted the guide from the car and unbolted the regulator. Pulled the regulator and guide out, remove the rubber piece at the top of the door jamb that is held in by two screws, then pulled the window out the top. I'm sure it will be easier without your quarter on!
You can see in the pic on post #129 the window guide after I wire wheeled the nearly half century crud off, then clear coated the guide.
You can also see in the pic there is a socket I modified to make the tool to remove the rollers. I just took spare crap socket with an outside diameter that matched the oval holes in the flat nuts holding the rollers, then ground it down on a bench grinder so two stubs were remaing. Put that socket in a ratchet and it worked perfect!

:thumbsup: Thank you very much.

Made the bracket for the fuel pump and filter. Its thick, heavy and hopefully shouldn't vibrate. I made the L bracket just in case the pump slips downward.

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2540.jpg


Brackets made for the speaker box.

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2546.jpg

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2551.jpg


Mounts at rear will be drilled when I drop the tank for a larger sending unit. But I routed the wires already because I wanted their lengths set so I can put the interior back in.

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2562.jpg

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2566.jpg

Okay, rear panel is dusted off and in....I want an interior back!

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2567.jpg

I re-upholstered the seats in High School auto shop 14 years ago. (Those years have flown by!)
The rear seat seems to have held up. I left the originally fabric backing in place.

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2568.jpg

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2569.jpg


A baby makin' seat, original belts and fresh carpet...starting to feel good!

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2576.jpg


Bead blasted and clear coated the console bracket.

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2585.jpg

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2584.jpg


Still need to swap the '68 steering wheel spokes with '67 ones. Bugs me every time I look at it.

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2577.jpg


Mocking up the old dusty console to where it will sit with the T-56 Magnum. It will have to be about .5"-1" rearward because of the trans shifter location. In addition it looks like modification will have to be done because of the 6 speed shifter's range of movement. Im not positive as I dont have the shifter arm yet.

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2589.jpg

Just hit me how much I missed the spell of these interiors. I work on other people's cars, but when its yours and your putting your high school car back on the road with your son, its just unreal.

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2541.jpg

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2545.jpg

Keeping up with me? Heck you've passed me by a mile. I haven't even worked on the quarter windows. I love the look of the woofer enclosure. I'll be asking for that one! :)
Keep it up, you're almost there.

Thanks Rob! Have you figured out what caused your bad paint reaction? I hope your gauge cluster comes out good next spray. We have big plans on something right now that will be helping out the family and the build. I don't want to jinx it so I'll post it if it happens. But its something that has caused me to not spend any big money on Nicole right now. Luckily I have nearly everything for the interior in decent shape.

She's (Nicole) is looking real good.
My paint issue was, I think, laying on the second coat too wet. I re-painted it yesterday and it turned out okay. Something about me and plastic. I also painted the rear spoiler...plastic again! If you get what I mean. It worked but I'm not happy with the amount of orange peel. I'll sand with some 1000 and re-clear it! the bezel is done. i'll post some pics later today.
Well let's hope you're able to fill us in on the "big plans"!

This post has been around for while. Love the way it's going and the looks of your work, that sub box is pretty cool, you could sell those.

Funny how some of us take a few years to get these things together after simple tear down for some slight modifications...or already planned that we have parts for.....LOL!!!

I started with just wanting a new paint job and the next thing you know.......

Thanks Rob, glad your paint is holding up better.
I know its taking a while huh Joe! Thank you for the nice words and please be patient...at least thats what I have to constantly remind myself! Just like you said after she was painted and on the road and High School auto shop was done, I pulled the top end of the small block I had built for her to install a small under hood blower only to have it snowball, then build a family, then snowball again! I know I cant be the only one with this story, thats why its so great to talk to you guys!:beers:

13 years ago in High School auto shop I used 3M weatherstrip adheisive to hold the emblem and metal strip to the door panel. Worked until the California summer heat turned it to snot.
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2600.jpg

Might as well take the opportunity to resfresh the emblems...
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2602.jpg
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2603.jpg
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2604.jpg

I started a thread asking what people would use to adhere these pieces to the door panel. Some said 3M double sided tape (which I wish I tried) and some others recommended 3M emblem adheisive (which I used) we'll see how it holds up in the heat. If it fails in the heat I'll switch to the tape.
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2611.jpg

On to the console. High time for a refresh. I debated for a little bit about adding cutting the original console for the gauge option. After looking for a console originally cut for gauges and not finding a decent one, and seeing just how beat up this one is; it has holes drilled on the top in the front, and cracks at every mount, I'll be putting the gauges in this one.
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2594.jpg
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2595.jpg

Metal is still in one piece,
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2596.jpg

Not to bad
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2597.jpg
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2598.jpg
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2599.jpg

Have templete to work with that is slightly off-sized,
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2605.jpg

Gauges off ebay,
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2614.jpg

Careful measuring and outlining and the cut is made. I'll refine it a little more to make it look more factory.
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2626.jpg

Gauges in,
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2621.jpg
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2620.jpg

Cracks and holes filled,
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/IMG_2624.jpg

So now I'll strip and order the flocking material. Dale made a great write up, I just need to verify the correct color. The website Dale recommended looks great but they have three different greys and a black among their long list of colors. Anyone know the correct flocking color?

Well here is what I was hoping for, my wife was hoping for...we are done waiting it is done. We are finished renting and are now paying mortgage on a house with acreage! Plenty of room for a shop...

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww347/bacon104/TC%20Pics/Ourhouse.jpg

Congratulations! Becareful what you wish for though. I only have 1.1 acres and am now 2+ days doing yard work:mad:

Congratulations! Becareful what you wish for though. I only have 1.1 acres and am now 2+ days doing yard work:mad:

X2! Congrats... but yes, we have 7 acres and the yard work is never done! Time for some sheep and goats! :D But what a feeling it must be for you. My wife will never live back in the city again.
Enjoy!

Thanks you guys. The moving process is taking forever, and yes, taming 5+ acres of chest high grass at the same time...I miss working on the car already. But seeing both our kid and our dog pass out at the end of the day from playing non stop, shoot Im smiling just thinking about it as I type this!

Hello everyone, how are the builds? i bet your all done and driving em by now! It has been so long since I got to touch the Camaro!!! It has been killing me lately. We are for the most part settled on the new property. A 18' by 36' carport is on on the property so she will be home soon! I need to make some end walls on the carport before I bring her here. I have tried to start on those but first my hand was broken, then the other day my wife was t-boned by someone running a red light. She is okay but its yet another delay. But it will be soon.

Missed ya Kevan. I'm glad everyone is okay. I got Orangasm done... Sort of! Check out the thread. Now get to building and get her home. ;)