I just installed a new grant wheel and kit on my 67 which had the deluxe wheel. The horn didn't work before, but now when I re-connected the battery the horn just started working and stayed on, without pushing the horn button. I disconnected the horns and when I re-connected the battery I could hear the horn relay click. Would the problem be in the steering wheel installation or could it be the horn relay? I'm hoping this is an easy soultion.

Steering wheel...the horn wire is grounded somewhere - probably in the button assembly.

Horn button is different for the deluxe wheel. Have a look at this thread:
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=86939

we'll my battery is dead, horn relay must have drained it. The way I see the horn working is that the horn retainer makes contact with the wheel when you depress the horn button, correct. I'm thinking that this retainer may be contacting the wheel all the time. What causes the horn relay to be on constantly, bad ground? I've disconnected the horns.

Disconnecting the horns will help I suppose but if the column is where your unwanted ground is coming from, the relay will still suck your battery.

If I'm read'n my schematic right, there is a 20G Black wire connected to relay pin 2 that applies ground to the relay to make it operate. There is also a 20G pink/black wire connected to pin 4 of the relay from the ignition key-in reminder switch and one contact of the drivers door switch.

Try disconnecting the black wire (pin 2) and key-in reminder (pin 4) each in turn to see which circuit is causing the relay to click. Disconnect the curved connector below the steering column to see if the relay shuts off. Use a test lamp in place of the horns for a visual on whether or not the relay is energized.

Is it a Grant wheel with the large round metal button that you have to press down onto the horn ring and turn to seat? This only pertains if it is.....

If it is, there is supposed to be a spring mounted on the end of the steering column on top of the column nut that pushes the button/horn ring back to keep it off the steering wheel plate.

If it is that style, pull the button off and hold the horn ring up off the center of the wheel and see if the relay deenergizes. If that's the problem, you've got to get the horn button on right so it keeps that Grant ring off the inside of the wheel. There are three dimples in the horn button and three small cutouts on the horn ring that have to be lined up when installing the button, then it gets turned to lock onto the fiber ring and the spring pushes the whole thing away from the inside of the wheel. Also, the ring has to be correctly mounted so that it slides up and down easily on the three shoulder bolts.

I had to really press down on my button (don't forget to put the spring on the end of the column) and use a small flat blade screwdriver from the underside to get it to turn on the fiber ring.

Steiner, that is exactly what I have. I took the button off and have the feeling that before I didn't have it on good and it was constantly contacting the ring, therefore setting off the horn. I've put it back on but it doesn't seem to want to turn to lock it in but now my horns won't work, may have blown a fuse, haven't had time to check that though. It feels like it may not be contacting the ring but not sure, it's hard to turn because of lack of room.

Steiner, that is exactly what I have. I took the button off and have the feeling that before I didn't have it on good and it was constantly contacting the ring, therefore setting off the horn. I've put it back on but it doesn't seem to want to turn to lock it in but now my horns won't work, may have blown a fuse, haven't had time to check that though. It feels like it may not be contacting the ring but not sure, it's hard to turn because of lack of room.


It's a real booger to get on for sure. It's probably something simple to get the horn working again. You've been working with it and all so probably a wire got removed at either the horn ring, relay, or horns that you might've missed.

There isn't a fuse. Your horn button provides the ground for the horn relay coil and the hot goes straight from the power junction on the horn relay to your horns when the relay is energized. It's possible but not likely that a piece of fusible link went if you still have some in your system. I replaced all of mine with circuit breakers.

Once you have the three shoulder bolts snugged in with the fiber ring installed, make sure that it flops around on those shoulder bolts easily and doesn't hang on anything. Then unplug the small black wire coming from the post on your cancel cam from the spade on the fiber ring and let it stick up in the air. Go through your connections at the relay and horn to make sure you've got everything back where it needs to be. Then you can just touch the tip of the black wire to your steering column to test the horn circuit all the way up to your wheel. Once it's all working, disconnect the black wire from the horn relay to keep it from going off and reassemble the horn contact and button assembly.

Here's what I had to do to get the button on.....

Make sure your hands are clean and degreased. You know by now that they slide all over that button trying to turn it.
Make sure that the black wire going from the cancel cam post through the Grant adapter is routed through the little groove correctly so that it doesn't get pinched and shorted to ground when the adapter and wheel get tightened down.
Locate the three indentions in the edge of the Grant fiber contact ring. Make sure to line up the dimples in the horn button with those indentions.
Install the sping on the column and press the horn button down with everything you've got and see if it will twist just a little to hold. Those dimples have to get lower than the cutouts on the fiber ring and then slide under. Keep in mind you can't just put the button on and turn....you have to force it down as hard as you can and turn it. You are trying to get the dimples on the button under the fiber ring so that the button pulls the ring up off the column when released. I think they made the ring height a little too low so it's almost impossible to get the dimples lower than the ring when the button is pressed.
It may not twist at all. If that's the case, get a small flat blade screwdriver (like for small electrical terminials). Look underneath the edge of the wheel where the horn button goes in. You'll see a small opening about big enough to slide a quarter in. While pressing down on the horn button HARD, slide the screwdriver into that slot than turn it so the blade bites into the edge of the horn button. Then leverage the button in the direction you want it to rotate. Don't worry. If it marks the button, it will not show as it will be below the edge of the wheel face.

I've got the script "Camaro" button and that's what it took to get mine on and lined up correctly. That plus having the $#&! thing apart four times for different problems made for a real fun day.


http://image1.frappr.com/pix1/i/20090525/4/1/9/4195aa581c80da43616644191fe15a9f0_large.jpg

I have the exact same wheel and button. Yeah, it's a pain to push it on, very tight. It seems to be on and have to believe off the wheel now I have to figure out why the horns aren't working now. I've taken it apart once now so I guess I have 3 more to go to get this right, yipee. I hate electrical problems. Thanks for your help.