So many posts recently on mini starters. This one is very specific and not covered by other posts. Please see pics i took that describe an issue that I have where my starter pinion is actually sitting too far away from the flexplate. The reason for the gap is two fold: 1) I have a external bal. weight that goes between the crank and the flexplate thereby moving the flexplate position out slightly, 2) Starter machined face is not flush with the back underside edge of the block when it bolts up.

Question: Does anyone have a mini starter to recommend that has an adjustment to bring the pinion toward the ring gear or a pinion with more reach? Most seem to offer shims to correct for too close, this isn't my problem. I am using an off the shelf Summit mini and it obviously isn't going to work.

Pictures with annotations of what you are looking at are here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/36126720@N06/sets/72157620734846409/

Can't see the first photo, but I'm sure the flexplate is mounted correctly to the crankshaft, meaning the webs the t/convertor are bolted against are at the rear face of the flexplate.

Everett- good call on that. Yes, I think it's on correctly- I went and added a pic you can look at.

Yes, flexplate installed correctly as I said. Stock GM starter does engage correctly?

If your stock starter did work, then you can consider using one like I bought. I replaced my stock one with a mini high torque unit from DB Electrical and it works fantastic without shimming or anything. However, I had to cut a small portion of the flange off the nose (starter side, not end) because it contacted my flywheel...or something on my flywheel. You know how the stock starter is completely flat where it goes through the inspection cover? Well, the PMGR ones they carry have a little extra flange cast on there. You can see it in the pictures on their site. They said they would still warranty it though after my dremel mod or just trade it out for a Hitachi noseless one. I kept it and cut the flange off. You can also use the factory support bracket with these.

You can get a look at them at the link below. You will have to type in the part number below in the search box to pull up the correct ones since I can't link the direct page. They are Delco permanent magnet series, come with new bolts, weigh only 7.5 pounds, and are rated for up to an 18:1 motor while pulling less current than a stock starter.

PM300 -- 168 tooth $55
PM301 -- 153 tooth $65

http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/

Steiner I looked at this. Seems like a nice OEM style starter so maybe fit isn't such a big deal. Can't follow what you had to cut off of it but perhaps it is situational.

Here you go. I'll try to get a picture of it installed later this weekend if you want. Got to go help a friend move right now....

Luckily, I was setting my valves at the time so I was turning the motor by hand. I was like "OH WHAT THE F NOW? This thing was just running when I pulled it in the garage!!!" I had run it a little and then parked it for several weeks while doing other stuff and the starter and headers were the last things to go on.


http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2611/3684126173_39d842c3c6.jpg?v=0

Oh... Right ok I see what you mean. Well I had not considered one of these but I will now. Weight is good, and it allows space for headers generally? No need for another pic, hoist a beer instead!

Well, here's a few poor ones anyway. I've already had it off and back on without a problem with headers installed and I have a 7qt oil pan with kickouts.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2439/3685492998_93d47ffd61.jpg?v=0

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2650/3685493118_c9af6ee03f.jpg?v=0

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3619/3685493216_2d70272112.jpg?v=0

Steiner,
Looks like a good starter and it goes for a good price as well.

Nothing really to add to the thread. Just wanted to say that is a very good price on that starter from DB Electric and I will be ordering one in just a few minutes. Thanks for the info.

Is that starter made in the USA by any chance?

Sorry, Royce. I don't know where it's made but they say it is a Delco series. Mexico, maybe? I have one of their 105A Delco 10SI chrome alternators as well. $75 smackers.

I was under the car retorqueing my oil pan bolts and snapped a couple more photos that may show clearance a little better. With headers installed and a kick-out oil pan, pulling it out and putting it back in took a combined ten minutes tops.



http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3580/3685882536_73fc3e1930.jpg?v=0

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2621/3685882796_b3a30158a3.jpg?v=0

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2469/3685883008_dc544231ac.jpg?v=0

it does not matter if the motor is externally balanced becaus I have the exact issue with an interanally balanced 383.

I know it is a 350 4 bolt main block from mexico. I know it is a GM block. I looked it up before. I wonder if this is this issue. The guy who built the motor was not overly concerned....but it just does not feel right.

Probably the same summit starter

Kinda reminds me of a $69 ebay mini starter I have. Seems I had to take the mounting plate off and flip it around. One side had a recess and the other didn't? heck I can't remember it was 4 or 5 yrs ago. I was ticked off, I remember that for sure. There was something about it you couldn't see until you strewed it and reassembled. Had a stupid little gasket in there that got ruined, too.

yup, look at your 3rd pic. Bolthole isn't in the center of the plate. flop it over and it moves the starter closer.

Oh I see that! Lemme take a look at it, almost sent it back. Ya know they could probably save themselves a lot of lost business with returns if they hired someone that spoke English to write a proper instruction manual to accompany this thing. Wolf I hope you are right on that...