Best oil for First Gen Camaro w 350 Engine?

Break it in with 10w30 conventional oil (for the first 9K miles, changing it every 3K, exclusive of the 500 and 1K change), then go synthetic. I prefer Mobil 1, but go with what you can afford.

Ill second that.

Don't just use any oil. The mineral contents is important for older engines that use flat-tappet lifters.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Flat_Tappet_Engines.aspx

I have been using Mobile Delvac 1300 Super in my 78 Ford's 351. It's a diesel engine oil but works great for older engines with flat tappet lifters. I am using Mobile 1 high mileage 10w30 in the Camaro and might do that on my Ford on the next oil change.

Get whatever is on sale at Walmart between Penzoil and Castroil . If you have a flat tappet cam get a zinc additive like ZDP.

If its a standard 350 without being built up for high horsepower and its in good mechanical condition, 100% synthetic is the best for it. Less friction, runs cooler and longer drain intervals. I use Amsoil in my camaro and all my cars. It also has high ZDP content for flat tappet but my guess is you have hydraulic lifters.
:) Go to Engine section and use the SEARCH button and look at all the discussions on oil. Good reading.

I would use a Heavy Duty Engine Oil (HDEO) rather than a Starburst Oil (http://www.api.org/certifications/engineoil/categories/upload/English_Oil_Guide.pdf). These have plenty of ZDDP for anti-wear as well as strong deposit control additives to keep your engine clean. There is no need to add ZDDP because even the latest CJ-4/SM HDEOs have up to 1200 ppm of phosphorus, which is the anti-wear component of ZDDP.

For 10W-30 dino oils, you can use Shell Rotella T (http://www.shellusserver.com/products/pdf/RotellaTCI-4CI-4.pdf), Brad Penn HDEO (http://www.amref.com/bp_pb/7190_91_93_94_98_BP_HDDEOs_PB.pdf), PetroCanada Duron-E (http://lubricants.petro-canada.ca/resource/download.aspx?type=TechData&iproduct=176&language=en), and Exxon XD-3 (http://www.exxon.com/usa-english/lubes/pds/nause2cvlexexxonxd-3_10w-30_15w-40.asp). I would go with a 30-weight synthetic oil, but because they flow so well in cold temperatures, they are generally only found as 5W-30 and 0W-30. Amsoil has HDD 5W-30 (http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/hdd.aspx) and Chevron has Delo 400 Synthetic 0W-30 (https://www.cbest.chevron.com/generated/MSDS/PDS7668732.PDF). Canadians can also get Esso XD-3 Extra 0W-30 (http://www.esso.ca/Canada-English/Files/Products_Lubes/IOCAENCVLESEsso_Xd-3_extra.pdf) and PetroCanada Duron Synthetic 0W-30 (http://lubricants.petro-canada.ca/resource/download.aspx?type=TechData&iproduct=180&language=en).

ACCCC Engine Oil Article (http://www.acccc.net/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=49:engine-oil&catid=47:maintenance&Itemid=37)

If I was anal about oil, I would run the best syn I could buy and put a small bottle of EOS in it as well as a 1/2 a 1/2 pint of "NEAT" 100 percent pure Soy Bio-diesel in it and go!

pdq67

No need to add any additional ZDDP if you're using HDEO. Most HDEOs (CI-4/SL & CJ-4/SM) contain well over 1000 ppm of phosphorus (the anti-wear component of ZDDP). Too much ZDDP can cause engine deposits and camshaft spalling.

I'm not sure why you would add bio-diesel to engine oil.

"I'm not sure why you would add bio-diesel to engine oil."

B/c it's proven that it has high lubricity esters in it that drop engine friction like 3 to 4 percent in small amounts as well as it is being added to ultra-low sulfur diesel now as a lube b/c of the lack of sulfur..

I'd love to know what "ROIL" has in it???

pdq67

"I'm not sure why you would add bio-diesel to engine oil."

B/c it's proven that it has high lubricity esters in it that drop engine friction like 3 to 4 percent in small amounts as well as it is being added to ultra-low sulfur diesel now as a lube b/c of the lack of sulfur..

I'd love to know what "ROIL" has in it???

I say this b/c my Buddy Doc gave me a double shot-glass sized bottle of it to try in my corn-popper and once I poured it in, I could tell the difference by the sound of my engine that it was being lubed better.

pdq67

what is "ROIL" ?

http://roiloil.com.au/

pdq67

The Roil does look impressive but the Falex/Timken machine (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Timken_OK_Load) is designed more for testing EP lubes rather than engine oil. I have my doubts that it will provide useful protection in an engine.

See the following BITOG topics for more information:

Neways "Roil" Additive (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=296510#Post296510)
ROIL - whats the go (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=884196#Post884196)
Timken Machine Testing (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1048963#Post1048963)

The second reference suggests that Roil will break down with heat and pressure to cause corrosion inside the engine.

The biodiesel sounds good too and 1/4 pint is a small amount to add to an engine. I have read that it improves the lubricity of diesel fuel (see BITOG Best Adds for Diesel Fuel? (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=290062#Post290062)). However, I've only read of it being used as an engine flush rather than a friction reducer (see BITOG Best Engine Flush? (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=308254#Post308254)) in engine oil. Does anyone have any documentation about its ability to reduce engine friction by 3-4%?

I would be hesitant to add any additives to an engine oil.

additives that you add to an oil will void that oil's warranty. Dont be a shade tree chemist. Use the oil as its intended. Additives in today's oils are very high tech. Adding other 'stuff' will change all the chemistry. Why risk it?
Falex testing was used years ago by Slick 50 and others and is not an ASTM approved method of testing any lube.

In case anyone is interested to try an HDEO other than 15W-40, I've compiled a list:

Heavy Duty Engine Oils (http://www.acccc.net/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=51%3Ahdeo&catid=47%3Amaintenance&Itemid=37)

Don't get hung up on all the marketing hype, wild claims, and the blizzard of new additives if you have a stock/OEM valvetrain. All you need to know is to look at the API "donut" symbol on the back of the container; if the first-listed API service category in the donut is CI-4 or CJ-4, that's all you need - those oils all have 1100-1200 ppm of phosphorus/ZDDP, which is more than adequate to provide protection for any OEM valvetrain. Brand names aren't important, as they all have to pass the API certification tests, but you'll commonly find Shell Rotella, Mobil Delvac, Chevron Delo, and many others - Wal-Mart even has a house brand that's CJ-4.

If you have an aftermarket cam with a more radical lobe profile and Gonzo valve springs, that's a whole different ball game, and you need additional protetction. :thumbsup:

:beers: