I have a fresh 383 in my 69, I am wondering what is a good timing setting for it, I have it at 12 deg at idle, also does anyone have a preference on a dist. I have a mallory unilte with an MSD 6AL box and blaster 2 coil. I am not sure how to set the advance in the dist, and Iwas told the unlite was a pain to set.. Thanks for the help.. Ed

Most Unilites are set-up from the factory to have 24 degrees advance. Have you checked total timing? Add to that your 12 degrees initial and you are just about right, if not perfect. But if you want to get rid of it cause someone told you it was a pain to set-up, then sell it and get an MSD. That's what everyone else does.

I did check the timing, it was 24 deg at 2500 rpm and 12 deg at 900 rpm, so I guess this means the total is 36 degrees, is this correct.. And is this ok for a 383.. Thanks for the help.. Ed

95% of all small blocks that I have tuned liked 36-38 degrees total timing. So I would say that you are damn close. Tell me about your combo. Mid 12's should be easy with a 383 that makes any power and is set-up right. Your signature says 475HP....just a guess??

Here is what I have, let me know of any tuning help you can give, thanks
383
FORGED pistons 10.5 to 1
EAGLE STEEL crank
Childs & Albert - zz gapdura Moly File Fit Rings
Durabond - cam bearings
gm pink forged steel rods
ARP - wavelock - rod bolts
Clevite- -bearings tri metal 77 - rod and main
comp cams xe chrome moly push rods
PRO LINE HEADS 220CC runners 2.02/1.60 valves 1.45 springs 10 degree super locks 7/16 studs guide plates.chrome moly retainers
hi perfromancerockers-1.6
cam-490 lift 110 lobe seperation 230 intake and 236 exuast duration @50
I am running the mallory unilte with MSD 6al with balster 2 coil, taylor pro wires, holley 700 DP, holley blue electric pump with reg.
hooker supercompheaders,1 5/8 primaries
2 1/2 exaust through 40 series flowmasters dumped in front of rearend,
Thats about it, let me know you input on what horse power yo uthink it will have and what you think my 69 will do in the 1/4 mile with this setup..
THe guy that built it did a few like this and he said they dynoed at 475 at the flywheel.. Thanks for everyones help. Ed

I have no idea how to change the curve on a Mallory unilight. You might want to contact Mallory -- there's no need to get rid of your distributor if it works.

A 383 with a fast burn style combustion chamber will want a little less total timing than an old-school type 350. My 383 runs fastest with 33-34* total timing. Much more timing and it slows down, much less and it slows down.

Total timing = base + mechanical. So if you have 12* initial and 24* mechanical then your total timing is 36* (back it off a couple degrees).

IMO engines like yours typically like more initial timing and less mechanical advance. My 383 really likes 16* initial plus 18* mechanical with the mechanical all in by 2600 RPM. On the MSD distributor you can change the bushing for different amounts of mechanical advance. I have the 18* bushing installed - there are other bushings that cause more mechanical advance. I'm not sure how the Mallory works . . .

Setting the advance on a Mallory is not that hard at all. Depends on what style/how old it is (what series 46, 47, 50, 57?). Either way there is a kit with nylon "jigs" you loosen two set screws, put in the correct jig (depends on how much total timing you want, they are all marked)once you have the "jig" in place you tighten up the set screws and you're done. Now in order to set how fast the timing comes it that is done with springs like most distributors. If you tell me what model Unilite you have I can get you the part number for timing kit.

If you go to www.mrgasket.com (http://www.mrgasket.com) and click on Mallory at the bottom of th epage you should be able to look at the online catalog and find the kit you need for your distributor.

Sounds like a pretty stout combo to me. If you know how to tune I think low 12's with no problem, possibly high 11's with me tuning. :D Timing is more trial and error than anything. As Camaroman7d explained, Mallory's aren't hard to tune. You will need the plastic jig though. But I say just take it to the track and see. Maybe back it off like Eric68 suggested to 34 and try it. Keep bumping it up till she slows down. Jetting will make a big difference too. Hope you have traction, cause she should run.
Good luck.

I don't think it that 383 is going to like 38 degrees total.

Shoot for a total between 32-36 degrees.

I set it at the 34 mark, THanks for all the help guys, I will get a few more miles on it and get it to the track and try it out.. Ed

Originally posted by bad69rs:
I did check the timing, it was 24 deg at 2500 rpm and 12 deg at 900 rpm, so I guess this means the total is 36 degrees, is this correct.. And is this ok for a 383.. Thanks for the help.. Ed No, this is not correct if I'm reading this right. You don't add the timing at 900 to the timing at 2500. If you only have 24 degrees at 2500 rpm, I don't think you can get 36 total, unless the curve is really slow and stops advancing at 3500+ rpm.

You add the initial timing, low idle, to the amount of mechanical advance adjusted into the distributor. The number of advance is on that plastic key/jig. I don't run vac advance but I have about 18 in the dist. and I run 16-17 initial. It stops advancing at 2600 rpm, that is adjusted with the springs.

Rev it to 3500 and check the timing. Do you have vac advance? Depending on how you have the vac line hooked up it will make a difference.

Lonnie

I had a later model mallory mechanical distributor and the total timing was set by bending a tab. The tab was effectivily a stop to limit how far the weights would advance. I think Mallory switched to this style because people would lose the keys.

I just picked up a vacuum advance unilite but haven't checked to see how to adjust to total timing. You can adjust the vacuum advance by sticking a allen key (forgot the size) in the vacuum hole.