Anybody using this method to adjust valves?
1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 Firing Order
0 deg TDC, both number one valves shut.
Adjust the #1 exhaust valve
Adjust the #1 intake valve
Adjust the #3 exhaust valve
Adjust the #5 intake valve
Adjust the #7 intake valve
Adjust the #2 intake valve
Adjust the #4 exhaust valve
Adjust the #8 exhaust valve
Now rotate the engine 360 degrees. The mark
on the balancer should be back at the TDC
mark. Keep in mind that this is not the TDC
where #1 would be firing! It's where #6 would
fire.
Adjust the #3 intake valve
Adjust the #5 exhaust valve
Adjust the #7 exhaust valve
Adjust the #2 exhaust valve
Adjust the #4 intake valve
Adjust the #6 exhaust valve
Adjust the #6 intake valve
Adjust the #8 intake valve
Been using the 90* method, but this above looks like a time saver.

Hi Mike. I have always used the ex. begins to open set the in. In. opens and half closed set ex. I have heard that some of the bigger cams require this method. You could try it the way you described, then check the lash again this way.If the lash stays the same, it is certainly a time saver.

The Chevy factory shop manual shows that method. With mild cams there is a lot of 'base circle sharing' where 1 cylinder is exactly on base circle centerline and the others are close enough to adjust +/- 1/16 turn or so. With a more radical cam (less base circle area) or a solid lifter you need to adjust each one on its own base circle.

This is the cam in question.
Comp Cams Mechanical Flat Tappet (288TLS-6) 12-515-5
ADVERTISED 288in 296ex / @ .050” 259in 266ex / Lift .550in .570ex 106º

This is what I have been using.
Adjust Solid Cam Shaft.
If you adjust the valves at TDC in 90 degree increments you will only need to turn the engine over twice.
Here it is again:
All you do is put the engine on #1 TDC firing or compression, adj. both valves on that cylinder, rotate the engine 90degrees or 1/4 turn & do
#8, 90degrees & #4 etc. down the firing order.
Simple, quick, accurate & easy.

This is a great method of adjusting valves. If your cam is a factory grind it works great. However, with a radical camshaft, be sure to adjust each cylinder separately. This method may get you close enough to at least start the engine, then adjust one side at a time while running.
Bill

This is the cam in question.
Comp Cams Mechanical Flat Tappet (288TLS-6) 12-515-5
ADVERTISED 288in 296ex / @ .050” 259in 266ex / Lift .550in .570ex 106º

This is what I have been using.
Adjust Solid Cam Shaft.
If you adjust the valves at TDC in 90 degree increments you will only need to turn the engine over twice.
Here it is again:
All you do is put the engine on #1 TDC firing or compression, adj. both valves on that cylinder, rotate the engine 90degrees or 1/4 turn & do
#8, 90degrees & #4 etc. down the firing order.
Simple, quick, accurate & easy.

Just for kicks, turn the engine over until intake on #1 opens and is almost closed. Then check the clearance on the exhaust valve of that same cylinder. You may find that it's looser than you set it at using the above method. To finish, continue turning the engine until the exhaust you just set just starts to open and check the intake. Make sure you do this at whatever temp you initially set the valves at (some people set them fully warmed, others others do the same but then re-check clearance when completely cold and use those numbers to set them cold and avoid doing them on a hot engine (me ;)).

I'm real curious if your settings match your way and my way. If you get a chance let us know how it matches up.

Jody

Just a stupid question for y'all....

If a valve on a radical cam is not adjusted right, can that actually lose you compression that would show up on a compression test?

Just a stupid question for y'all....

If a valve on a radical cam is not adjusted right, can that actually lose you compression that would show up on a compression test?

Yes.Radical cam,oem cam...makes no differance.Cylinder pressure starts building when the intake valve seats abdc.