I'm going to tub my 68 myself and would like to see some ladder bar set ups. I'm going to use a panhard instead of the diagonal link due to the fact the car will see more street than anything. I've been looking at chassis works frame rails to back halve the car.
I am kind of curious as to how much the body will have to be cut.
Installing a 29.5x12.5x15 slicks.. Can I still retain the back seat??

Randy, I'm right in the middle of narrowing my back half and although I'm going with a slightly larger tire. I removed everything in the back. My wheel/tire combo is 15X14 Centerlines with 3 3/8 backspacing. Tires are 31X16.5X15 MT Sportsmans. There simply was no room to retain anything to include the rear deck. I'm even having to remove 3" of the rocker panel to allow the tires to be tucked underneath and allow for tire growth. Hope this helps



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1967 Prostreet Camaro
BBC TH 400 w/4,500 stall 4:56 gears,narrowed and tubbed...
http://www.visionworks-usa.com/camaro
Momma's new toy
http://www.visionworks-usa.com/69camaro

Randy,
I did my 69 camaro and designed it to fit everything under the car, witout having to cut open the quarters. The biggest tire that I can put under is m/t 29x18.5. I cut everything out from behind the drivers seat, all the way back to the rear body panel. All my parts were made by S&W, and the frame rails were spaced a 28", outside to outside. The rear was cut at 40", I use 15x14 drag lites with a 4-1/2" offset, and this allows a 1-1/2" of clearance for the tires, all around. I'm using 32" double adjustable ladder bars with a track bar and have 130lbs. coil overs. The tubs are 40" steel. I don't have many pic's, but if you want me too, I have a few of the rear, before it has been completely finished.
Talk to you later.
Bruce

[This message has been edited by bruce69camaro (edited 03-01-2002).]

I finished my 69 about two years ago. I used a Chassis Engineering kit. They provided a video that shows the whole procedure from start to finish. I think you can get this video on their website. My setup is similar to the others 28" rails, 32" ladder bars 130# coil-overs, 41.5" ford rear. I run 31X16.5x15 ET streets on 12" Welds with 5.5"BS. I also used frame connectors front to rear and attached the roll bar to the frame at six points. I only had to slightly open the wheel wells and I tucked the tire in so it doesn't throw rubber all over the side of the fender. Good Luck

I tubbed my '68 1 1/2 years ago myself, after looking at every ones "back half kits" I choose S&W, my car was a basket case, no trunk floor, or interior floor. The car has a Dana 60 rear with disk brakes, 15x14 with 4 1/2 back spacing Welds, tires are Mickeys 31.5 x 18.5x 15, the frame rails on my back half measure 24" out side of rail to out side of rail. I used their ladder bar set up woth panhard bar also since car is driven on the street more than anything. I did't have to cut the rear quarters to get this all to fit either. Yuo will loose any chance of seating area by tubbing it out, also keep in mind that you should also install at least a 10 point cage in the car, this will greatly help in the strength of the Chassis and also I used 2x3 tubing for my connectors to the front sub frame. If you've never done this before I recommend that you read everything avail. on the subject. Once you're ready you've got to do a lot of measuring, support the car on stands all the way around and not bump or move chassis from that location. You want it to be sitting on stands level since if it's "crooked or twisted at all once you put the new frame assembly and roll cage in it will be like that when you're done and you will not be a happy camper. Just be patient, and take your time and you'll be very happy, I know I am. If you have any question fell free to e-mail me at jcmattony@aol.com. Good luck.

Do you think it will really need a 10 pt cage for just 12.5 wide slicks. Surely with this size tire I'll be able to keep my back seat and just widen the inner wheel well a few inches.
Right now I'm waiting for replys from Art Morrison and Chassis Works on their frame kits. I picked the 10in welds so that I can run street tires when wanting to and be able to swap wheels with my 70 chevelle.

Randy,
if all you want to do is mini tub your car,
check out this site. www.detroitspeed.com (http://www.detroitspeed.com)
these guys do great work.
bruce

Randy,
One of the problems I ran into when building my car is that the ladder bars will not fit below the floor in the back seat area. The floor had to be cut and raised for clearance. If you use the leaf springs and just move them in some you can still use the seat. You will probably have to get the seat frame modified some to get it back in. When you start cutting out parts of the original floor you take away much of the strength of the unibody. A roll bar is used to make the car stiff and strong again. I would at least put in a 6 point bar and tie the frame rails together.

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'69 RS/SS396 pro street
427/4spd/9"
Byars Performance
High Performance Drive Train Parts And Service
www.lubedealer.com/biggearhead (http://www.lubedealer.com/biggearhead)

I'm going to tie the frames together with 2x3 box steel. I'll extend the frame from front frame till the rear crossmember where the ladder bars will tie in to the narrowed frame. So I'm essentially creating a full framed camaro that just so happens to be tubbed and frame narrowed. I was going to order the rear frame but I think I will have to do too many adjustments to make it work. I'm going to try to make my own rear frame set up so I can fit better with the under body contours and not gut the trunk and back seat area. will be using a coilover set up with this.

If you want to keep as much floor pan as possible it might be to your advantage to mini-tub the wheel wells and move the leaf springs or go to a ladder bar setup with a top coil-over cross bar and frame crossmember to attach the bars in front. You can still tie the front and back together.
Most backhalf frame kits require removal of the floor from behind the rear seat to the trunk. Also rollbar/rollcage requirements are determined by ET and modifications(ie floor and firewall)How fast you planning to go??

Just my two bits...

First off - qualifications:

1967 Camaro RS, Formerly competing NHRA Super Stock (SS/CS if your keeping score), Now Pro Street. Rear end - Reinforced Ford 9", Suspension - 32" Ladder Bars with adjustable Koni's mounted inboard. Tires: Slicks - MT 31.5 x 14 x 15's mounted on 12" Rims. Street: 31 x 16.5 x 15" MT Sportsmans (also 12" rims).

Comments:

My car sits higher than many modern 4-link cars - fact of life, ladder bars cars do. As per Super Stock rules of the day (1970 when the car was built) - the trunk was not cut, nor was the floor (except for a removable tranny tunnel). Technically the car was mini-tubbed by todays standards. Fenders were pied about 1.5 inches front and back for clearance. Lips were rolled but retained. I don't run a rear seat, but I could with a bit of work. Factory monoleafs sit in original location.

12.5" Slicks or 16.5" Sportsmans are not big tires by any stretch - heck a 10.5W is almost as wide when all is said and done.

How much you choose to cut out is up to you. If you choose to use a pre-bent kit you will (most likely) cut far more than if you do it "yourself". Even so, the size of the actual tubs will be up to you, especially if you are going to run "small" tires.

If you are going to go street driving, want big tires, drivability, traction, and are going to buy a kit anyway, consider a 4-link. Ladder bars are limited in terms of side to side suspension travel (pot holes, ruts, etc.)

I don't have many pics of the back half but there are some on my site. Go to
http://www.adivanman.homestead.com/camaro.html

and click on "new this week" or whatever I called it that sounds like that. There should be a few pictures at the bottom of the page.

MY BAD... I MUST HAVE MOVED THEM. I WILL POST THEM THIS AFTERNOON. BE PATIENT.



[This message has been edited by James67RS (edited 03-05-2002).]

Be careful of the Art Morrison kits. My dad bought one of those for our 69 and we only had 3 tubes that were correct length. We had to go buy more tubing and bend it ourselves. They wouldn't do anyhting to help us out at all. Only the main hoop, the bar that goes from side to side behind seats and one rear frame rail would fit.

I don't know how close the '69 and '68 floor pan is, but I built my frame to fit under the stock floor. I have all of the dimensions and angles along with pictures. When I finished the frame I decided to go ahead and cut the floor out anyway, so I wasted my time fitting it under the floor. I could have had more room for stuff if I had built it the other way.

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'69 RS/SS396 pro street
427/4spd/9"
Byars Performance
High Performance Drive Train Parts And Service
www.lubedealer.com/biggearhead (http://www.lubedealer.com/biggearhead)

Thanks for all the replys gang, this info is helping.
I think I'm going to build my own frame for the job. As others have posted the inner wheel wells will maybe need to be cut just a bit. So I should be able to keep the back seat like mentioned with a lil bit of work.

I did call Moser today to get prices on the axles and 9" housing ends so I can do the rear end myself.
I'm using a chevelle 12 bolt and cutting it down unless I find a good 9" this weekend at the swap meet.

i've got some more paint work to get done for other customers before I start on this, so I'll keep ya posted when the welder fires up.

Randy,
You going to the swap meet in Louisville this weekend? I'll be there on Saturday picking up parts for my '69 from Bluegrass Classics and looking for deals on rear end parts. Don't cut up the Chevelle 12 bolt. I know people who need those.

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'69 RS/SS396 pro street
427/4spd/9"
Byars Performance
High Performance Drive Train Parts And Service
www.lubedealer.com/biggearhead (http://www.lubedealer.com/biggearhead)

Yeah I'll be there.
Like clock work every year.
funny how that show comes around right after I get my tax check back.
I'll be there looking for a cowl hood, fenders, and door skins if I get lucky.
I'll be there about 9:30 or so with about six other buddies.
I see 12 bolts for chevelles all the time in the bargain mart.
My buddy just picked up 2 for under 300.$ Complete..