I am going to be upgrading my 68 with a repro console with gauges and tic toc tach. I picked up a set of gauges and wiring harnesses and tach last night. I've been studying the instructions and I think I have a handle on how it will all go together. I have a question on the conversion wiring harness. I assume it joins the wiring harness that attaches to the gauges at the big junction box which has all 12 wires in it but there is another junction box that is stubbed off of that one that only has 7 wires. Anybody know what that junction box is for? In particular I'm looking at the light green wire that is for the backup lights. It goes from the main junction to that stubbed junction. How does it get connected to the main body harness so that current can flow to the backup lamps?

Here's a pic of what I bought:

Next question: The instructions for the fuel gauge wriring say "Remove the tan wire from the dash side of the rear body connector and replace it with the tan wire from location 12 of the gauge harness connector". I see the tan wire coming from the conversion harness but I'm not sure what "dash side of the rear body connector " is.

First discrepancy: Under Power Connections instructions say "Plug the pink wire from location 9 of the gauge harness connector to an ignition power terminal "IGN" on the face of the fuse panel. But the pink wire coming out of the connector at location 9 just jumps over to that stubbed off connector, i.e. it doesn't have a long wire and a connector on the end. I guess I'll have to improvise if no one nows anything about this.

Second discrepancy: Under Instrument lights it liikewise says "Plug the grey wire location 10 of the gauge harness connector to an instrument light terminal on the face of the fuse panel. But the grey wire coming out of the connector at location 10 just jumps over to that stubbed off connector, i.e. it doesn't have a long wire and a connector on the end. And I don't see anything labeled as "instrument light terminal" on the face of the fuse panel (at least the pic of fuse panel in my Chassis Service manual)

Let's first determine you are using the correct harness.

- CA6806 is for an original console car where you want to add gauges. - CA6809 is for column shifted car where you want to add gauges.

I think if you have an extra junction you may have the wrong harness.

I have an original floor shift car (no column shift) w/o console so it should be for adding gauges to a console. I will be buying a repro console so I think CA6806 is correct excpet thta it is for an automatic but mine is 4 speed. I have reconciled those differences which are purple and purple/white wires for neutral saftety switch and pink and light green for backup light switch.

here are some new pics:

mine was a 67 so i will be of limited help, mine was a original consol car,when I bought the conversion harness it was two pieces of wiring, the consol wiring with a large plug and the dash conversion harness with a large plug designed to be a add on meaning it was a seperate harness under the dash, the consol harness connects to the gauges with the other end a plug, the conversion harness plugs into that plug then runs to different places under the dash along side the factory wiring,
quote
Next question: The instructions for the fuel gauge wriring say "Remove the tan wire from the dash side of the rear body connector and replace it with the tan wire from location 12 of the gauge harness connector". I see the tan wire coming from the conversion harness but I'm not sure what "dash side of the rear body connector " is.

it is the dash side connector for the wiring harness that runs from the lower left side(driver side corner)on of the dash down the rocker panel to the tail lights ect.
the tan wire can be found on both sides of the plug replaces the dash side wire
quote
First discrepancy: Under Power Connections instructions say "Plug the pink wire from location 9 of the gauge harness connector to an ignition power terminal "IGN" on the face of the fuse panel. But the pink wire coming out of the connector at location 9 just jumps over to that stubbed off connector, i.e. it doesn't have a long wire and a connector on the end. I guess I'll have to improvise if no one nows anything about this.

in my case the pink wire had a terminal on the dash side of the conversion harness with a dual connector so you could connect something else in if needed this is the wiring conversion harness under the dash and plugs into the fuse panel on ign term
quote
Second discrepancy: Under Instrument lights it liikewise says "Plug the grey wire location 10 of the gauge harness connector to an instrument light terminal on the face of the fuse panel. But the grey wire coming out of the connector at location 10 just jumps over to that stubbed off connector, i.e. it doesn't have a long wire and a connector on the end. And I don't see anything labeled as "instrument light terminal" on the face of the fuse panel (at least the pic of fuse panel in my Chassis Service manual)

again in my case the grey wire was located on the dash side conversion harness and had a dual connector to add something else pluged in the fuse panel . has a term labeled lights near the ign , bat terminal on the fuse panel ,thats where it would plug in

as for reverse lights my dash harness had a consol plug allready in the factory harness, that was not being used because of the new conversion harness all i did is was pick the light green wire plug in my old consol harness(removed all unneeded wires from the consol plug) and ran a single wire to a switch on my 4 speed linkage (under the car) and got power from the new consols harness to opperate the rev lights i think it was a pink wire for power off the gauges

hope this help some
good luck
scott

So your conversion wiring harness did not have the stubbed off junction connector? See my pics I just added above.

I'm thinking I need yet another small harness to connect to that stubbed off connector that will then go to where all those wires are supposed to go. You would think the instructions would mention it. I just emailed Classic Industries. Hope they respond.

both of my harnesses had the one large plug connector on the ends! (I don't know anything about the connector that your pic shows being dual def. missing some wires if thats all there is)so that part was fool proof, the consol side harness connected to all the gauges and the consol's rear light assy(it was all the wires color coded correct), the dash side had all the wires to connect to the fuse panel,dash panel connector ,light switch, and the tail light wiring for the fuel gauge,and tack, also all the new wires for the engine side to run the amp gauge and the tack connections at the distributor. it was actuall a really good kit(npd) the plug on your factory harness might be missing some wires? I would think about maybe buying the seperate dash harness for a 4 speed consol car and go from there or you can add the wires needed to the factory plug
scott

Uh oh, may have another issue. Is there supposed to be a dash carrier lens when you have the tic toc tach? I got a new one but there's no hole in it for the clock stem and the catalog says "not for console gauges" and I can't find one that works with the tach so did the original dash with tach have a lens?

I just got off the phone with Classic Industries. The guy said that extra junction is to connect to the under dash wiring harness connection that would only be there if the car originally came with a console. They don't make a harness to complete what I have unless I were to buy the correct entire under dash wiring harness for like 450! How have you guys that have done this get by? Has no one added a console to a car that didn't come with one?

The guy also said that 90% of 1st gen Camaros came with consoles anyway? My luck I'd be in the 10% (but I don't believe that)

I think I can make this work but I'll have to splice in some wires and connectors that will go to the face of the fuse panel.

I converted my 67 nongauged autotrans consol car to a manueltrans gauges and tach added consol car without needing to use the factory plug under the dash!!
call npd 1-800-874-7595 fla and verify!
or web NPDLINK.COM pg 33, 67-81 camaro catalog
I think these parts if you have a 4 speed
68yr, c-2482-2a mt/w factory gauges consol harness(gives all the wires for the consol and gauges) $49.95
68yr, c-2484-2a mt conversion gauge harness (under dash)$94.95
should be good to go.
I don't know anything about the tic toc tach as far as wiring.
good luck
scott

Do you recall how you connected to the face of the fuse panel? In particular the BAT, IGN and instrument lamps? Those would be a pink, a grey and an orange wire. There are open male connectors by those labels and I think all I have to do is wire up female plugs to attch to those.

my wires had female plugs on the ends with female pigtails so i could plug into the wire also, just pluged right in. you could put female ends on the wires.
scott

Take a look at CA6805-E


Part Number: # CA6805E

68 FLOOR SHIFT MANUAL TRANS TO CONSOLE SHIFT MANUAL WITH GAUGES CONVERSION HARNESS
1967-1969 Console Gauge Conversion Harness: Console gauge wiring is made simple and easy with Classic Industries reproduction console gauge wiring harnesses. Each conversion harness is used to connect the console gauge wiring to the underdash harness. It must be used in conjunction with the console gauge harness to complete the factory console gauge circuits. This harness is necessary to install gauges in Camaros not originally equipped with console gauges. Choose the correct harness for your application. If you are installing factory gauges, it will be necessary to replace your original standard type console harness and replace it with a console harness that includes the gauge connectors.

"Take a look at CA6805-E"

I'm pretty sure that would just be the manual trans equivalent of what I have.

I think I have a handle on how to make it work. It will take some minor mods to add 4 wires with connectors like in the pics to the pigtailed junction connector. I hope I can buy those connectors like on the tan wire. Sounds like other vendors just have those wires and not the connector.

So to make sure I have this right, I will have to remove the fuse panel from the fuse block bulkhead connector. Then I will have several new wires that either replace or plug into various connections in the fuse block bulkhead connector. Then I put the fuse panel back onto the fuse block bulkhead connector? It seems like those new wires will get in the way?? I'm hoping it will make sense once I get the car back and see what I'm only looking at pics in manuals now.

Uh oh, may have another issue. Is there supposed to be a dash carrier lens when you have the tic toc tach? I got a new one but there's no hole in it for the clock stem and the catalog says "not for console gauges" and I can't find one that works with the tach so did the original dash with tach have a lens?

You have to drill your own hole. Depending on the condition of your original, it's probably a good idea to buy a new one and use the old one as a template. That's what I did.

Did you also buy a new printed circuit board? You'll need one of those too if you want to add a tach.

I got a new lens. I know I need a new printed circuit but I haven't ordered it yet. That brings up another question. On the back of the tach there are 3 small bolts that are terminals. Do those go through holes in the printed circuit and then do any other wires attach to those termainls? I know there is an orange hot wire for the clock. Does it attach to the terminal with the orange wire on the inside?

my tach installed in place of the fuel gauge in the dash, then installed the new printed circuit board and put nuts and washers, the factory plug on the circuit board has the new wire to run the tach instaled in it, the power for the tach is in the circut board ,i dont know about the clocks power,I sent the other info this morning on a email.
scott

Studying my Factory Assembly Manual closer I see where the upper and left bolts come through the printed circuit and have nuts that clamp it down. The lower right terminal comes through a slot in the circuit board and the orange wire from the harness connects to it. So I think I've got that figured out now.

Thanks for doc Scott and all the help everyone

Hopefully just one more question on the low fuel warning. On the back of the gauges I have one unfilled hole in the center and an unattached yellow wire from the gauge harness. Does the Low Fuel Warning MODULE (part number 3109 from NPD) plug into that hole and attach to the yellow wire? What does it do? Make a sound or turn on a light? Is buying that module all I have to do to add this option if my car didn't originally come with it?

Part Number: # CA6805E

"68 FLOOR SHIFT MANUAL TRANS" TO "CONSOLE SHIFT MANUAL WITH GAUGES" CONVERSION HARNESS

Should not be the same from its description , Thats a Manual Floor Shift ( No Console ) to Floor shift with a Console and Gauges.

NPD C-3109-2A $56.95 IS THE LOW FUEL MODULE
it connects to the fuel gauge in the consol, connects to the yellow wire with the oppisite end a bulb that plugs into the dash with a light that turn on showing low fuel (like a idiot light except it reads fuel in the dash) yes it can be added and problee plugs in to your tach somewhere.
scott

I understand now how and where the module hooks up to the console gauges and the long yellow wire goes back to the instrument cluster. I just wasn't aware there even was an idiot light in that cluster (in a 68) which illuminates when the fuel is low. Is that light always in the cluster or only if you originally had the option? I guess I need to see an owners manual that would explain the various lights and what they mean. I don't know if it was on the speedo side or fuel gauge side. If on the fuel gauge side it probably won't even be there anymore since that gets replaced by the tach.

I forgot I have an original owners manual buried away in all the stuff I got when I bought the car. Doh
It shows on the speedo just left of the odometer the oil pressure indicator light and then says (low fuel light available with optional console). So I'm guessing the same bulb is used for either. I guess it's a true idiot light and doesn't indicate what it means when it's lit?? So that tells me all I have to do is pony $57 for a module and I have it!

Part Number: # CA6805E

"68 FLOOR SHIFT MANUAL TRANS" TO "CONSOLE SHIFT MANUAL WITH GAUGES" CONVERSION HARNESS

Should not be the same from its description , Thats a Manual Floor Shift ( No Console ) to Floor shift with a Console and Gauges.

This harness will be different than the A/T in that it won't have the purple and purple/white wires that go to the neutral safety switch nor the pink and light green that go to the backup light switch. All the rest will be the same. I'm saying that since this part is coming from Classic Industries it will probably have the pigtailed junction connector that mine has for the wires that go to the face of the fuse panel unlike other vendor's harnesses which don't have that pigtail and instead have the individual full length wires with female connectors on them.

Is that light always in the cluster or only if you originally had the option?
(only the option)

It shows on the speedo just left of the odometer the oil pressure indicator light and then says (low fuel light available with optional console). So I'm guessing the same bulb is used for either. I guess it's a true idiot light
(the oil idiot light goes away replaced by a fuel light on the yellow wire from the consol harness since the consol gauges will now have a functional oil gauge, the oil wire on the engine side/dash side is also removed from the fuse panel)
scott

You're gonna kill me. I understand that. The same hole in the back is used for the oil pressure light or the low fuel light. If oil pressure it uses a blue/white wire but that gets replaced by the new yellow wire. But is still just a light at the same spot. How can it just be a light if it's oil pressure but display the word "FUEL" if it's low fuel light unless there is a different face around the speedo. Or I'm still not understanding. I wish I had it in front of me so I could take it apart.

the lens that says oil uses the bulb socket screw in type for the printed circuit board

the lens is changed to say fuel and uses the bulb on the yellow wire from the low fuel sender down in the consol
scott

the lens that says oil uses the bulb socket screw in type for the printed circuit board

the lens is changed to say fuel and uses the bulb on the yellow wire from the low fuel sender down in the consol
scott

The lens gets changed? That make sense but I only see one repro lens available in all my catalogs and I have a new lens from OER and it doesn't have any writing on it, oil or fuel. Where do I get a correct lens?

The lens gets changed? That make sense but I only see one repro lens available in all my catalogs and I have a new lens from OER and it doesn't have any writing on it, oil or fuel. Where do I get a correct lens?
yes,
my nephew took it to a printer and had a trasfer made for the letters (FUEL) he put them on a used lens after removing the word oil, looks good, we never found a source for a aftermarket lens
scott

From these pics in catalogs it looks like the word oil is in the speedo itself. Is there a diferent lens than the one in the other pic here?

From these pics in catalogs it looks like the word oil is in the speedo itself. Is there a diferent lens than the one in the other pic here?
yes additional lens(looks like they sell the speedo with that lens installed,(oil /brake))
when you take the speedo apart from the instrument assy the red lens will be a seperate piece with the word oil on the left side and the word brake on the right, just a piece of plastic, i think the green lens is seperate piece of plastic also.
scott

Fantastic, now I got it. No repro of the correct FUEL though huh? I'll have to really be bored and looking for something to fix to do this one.

Thanks

One more question on the repro tach. Does the clock stem knob come off the stem? It looks like the original did but I don't want to force the repro and break it if not. If it doesn't come off the hole I have to drill in the lens will have to be much bigger.

One more question on the repro tach. Does the clock stem knob come off the stem? It looks like the original did but I don't want to force the repro and break it if not. If it doesn't come off the hole I have to drill in the lens will have to be much bigger.

The knob at the end unscrews. You only need to make the hole the size of the stem.

And yours is a repro right? I can't unscrew mine by just holding then stem, I'll have to try a vice grips on it. This scares me