Last year, I had someone swap out my pinion yoke to a beefier 1350 yoke from Randy's Ring and Pinion.

I was unsure how to do it right so I had a shop do it.

I never got a chance to really address the issue b/c other things were more urgent but I notice around 30mph that there is a pronounced vibration.
I noticed after the pinion yoke was installed. I figured I'd ask the guy about it but he's out of biz now.

So why would a vibration only be there at a certain speed? It seems to me it would just increase in frequency as speed increased. But if I speed up a few mph, it goes away like its not there at all.

Anyone experience this? Any quick fixes?

Is the pinion nut tight? Is there any movement in the pinion other than rotation? Is the u joint installed correctly?

Just what u-joint was installed ?
Was the drive shaft modified for the 1350 ?

I gotta think.

Its been awhile.

I seem to remember it was a major hassle getting a u-joint to fit it. I did not have the driveline modified. The replacement U-joint was MUCH beefier than the one that was on there!
The u-joint was a big one and the pinion yoke WAS a 1310. Its now a 1350.

Is the pinion nut tight? Is there any movement in the pinion other than rotation? Is the u joint installed correctly?

I don't know what that would be and if I found it, what to tork it to. I have a torque wrench but just need to know what to torque it to.
(and where it is)

As far as the U-joint installed correctly, I don't know what is correct and what ain't. Since I know so little, I had a shop do it.
I've put some launches on it as is and it hasn't broke yet, I just hope that I haven't permanently damaged something launching it as is. They were foot brake launches, I dont' have a brake in this tranny.

This is a 12 bolt rear end, do I have to take it apart to get to the pinion nut?

The pinion nut is directly behind the u joint.

The pinion nut is what secures the pinion yoke to the pinion gear. You need to remove the u-joint to see the nut. It sits down in the yoke.

The pinion nut is what secures the pinion yoke to the pinion gear. You need to remove the u-joint to see the nut. It sits down in the yoke.

Can you get to it with a wrench once the U-joint is off?

You will need a 1 1/8 inch socket.

What do I torque it down to?

I'm going out to buy a 1 1/8" socket, should it be a deep socket?

Now I'm assuming that I take off the u-joint and drop down the drive line, that I can get to this without removing the pinion yoke?

I'm nervous about removing the pinion yoke, I know very little about this sort of thing and do NOT want to screw anything up.

Torque the nut to 150 foot pounds if you are not replacing the crush spacer. Be sure to use red Locktite on the threads.

Mike your not removing it, just verify torque (you will need a way(the tool) to hold the pinion from spinning (my pal made one like a breaker bar thats bolts to the pinion u joint threads ) ,and if its not torqued properly ,your crush sleeve may not be (crushed) set to the proper preload, not correct preload ,will take out the pinion bearing,or if he didn't use a new crush sleeve :sad:then it can also ruin the bearing also,but First just verify torque ,and go from there ,also check that your u joints are set or fit properly in your new pinion yoke... Happy Motoring

Mike

Put a good sized pipe wrench on the outside of the pinion yoke and rotate it around till it contacts the floorboard, or spring, and have someone hold it there. Then you are free to torque that sucker down without anything moving.

Mark

Mike

Put a good sized pipe wrench on the outside of the pinion yoke and rotate it around till it contacts the floorboard, or spring, and have someone hold it there. Then you are free to torque that sucker down without anything moving.

Mark
With all due respect to Mark ,make real sure that the pipe wrench does not slip off and chew up your yoke. its 100 ft lbs to crush the sleeve then check baring drag, in inch lbs 12 to 15 in lbs ,some good expereanced guys can tell by feel ...Happy motoring

With all due respect to Mark ,make real sure that the pipe wrench does not slip off and chew up your yoke. its 100 ft lbs to crush the sleeve then check baring drag, in inch lbs 12 to 15 in lbs ,some good expereanced guys can tell by feel ...Happy motoring

If you put the pipe wrench on the yoke in the direction it was made to be used and tighten it down, it ain't goin' nowhere. ;)

Mark

I'm having a hard time picturing this....

Because Big Gear Head says to put red locktite on the threads but OBG says that I'm not removing it.
How do I get locktite onto the threads if I don't remove it?

Anyone got a picture? I'm sorry if I'm a bit thick.

Also, I'm worried now because I've done some racing like it is now last year, I hope somethings not permanently damaged.

You don't have to remove the yoke to get the nut off. Put Locktite on the threads before you put the nut back on, if you remove it.

You don't have to remove the yoke to get the nut off. Put Locktite on the threads before you put the nut back on, if you remove it.


OK, I crawled under it (I have to look out the side of my head because I can't jack it up and crawl under it, I'm the only one here) and took as best a look as possible.
I can see now what you're talking about. The yoke has the 4 nuts/bolts on it to the U-joint.
I see where the yoke goes into the diff that there is a seal of some sort, I can see the green gasket like edge of it.
I also found a drip of gear oil there. I seem to remember that it had a drip there before I had the yoke swapped out to this big one.
Is this another indicator of an improperly torqued crush sleave?

So I was feeling into the yoke because I couldn't see and I do feel a nut in there.

So I remove the U-joint and drop the drive line by taking off those 4 bolts/nuts right?
Then I get a socket in there and somehow hold the yoke from turning and then torque it down.
Am I right?

Yes. Be sure that the car can't move before you take the drive shaft out. If you have it in park and remove the drive shaft then the car can roll.

Definitely block the car. I used a long, 3-4 ft pipe wrench to hold the yoke and the rear spring to butt the wrench against as I used a socket, 24 inch flex handle with a pipe extension over the handle and my 155 lbs for umph.

Reverse above for reassembly.

I couldn't do it.
All I have is a 15" pipe wrench. It comes down to developing 150 pounds with one arm on the torque wrench and one arm on the pipe wrench.
Or should I say the inability to develop that force, especially on my back with my face pressed up against the bottom of the car.

I have to wait till my cousin can come over and help me.

Do you have a pipe that you can slip over the handle of the pipe wrench?

Do you have a pipe that you can slip over the handle of the pipe wrench?

That's a thought, maybe I'll stop by the hardware store and buy some pipe. I don't have any laying around. Moved some months back into a newer house and so no home improvements or repairs yet to necessitate needing to buy any pipe yet.

:)