I have a 74 Nova rear sitting on saw horses that I got from a bone yard some 5 years ago and had a shop put 3.73 posi in. I finally got around to getting it ready to go in my 68. I filled it with AMSOIL the other night and now I notice a small amount of lube dripping from pinion seal. Maybe 2 drops in 24 hours.
Question is should I replace the seal. Can I do it sitting where it is? I was thinking of drilling two holes in an angle iron and bolting it to the yoke so that the ends of the iron sit on the saw horses. That would keep the yoke from turning while I back off the nut. Then as I understand it the yoke just pulls out. You pry out the old seal and press (gently hammer?) in a new one then torque the nut to 150.

What would y'all do?

Oh BTW I learned one lesson from filling it up. Never admit to the wife that the funky smell in the dishwasher is AMSOIL being washed off her measuring cup and funnel. Ahh two times through and you couldn't smell it any longer.

It might take more than that small board to loosen and tighten the pinion nut. I used a 3/4" pipe with the ubolt holding it while I tightened . You can change the seal. I changed my yoke while on the car. The trick is to use a new nut and some Loctite. The nut needs to be tightened tight, but no so much as to crush the sleeve used for original installation. Do a search because it has been discussed many times.

That board was just to hold it level when I filled it. I'm thinking a 1 1/2 - 2" angle iron maybe 3/16 thickness with holes drilled into it to bolt onto the yoke. This Nova rear uses straight bolts instead of U bolts so it should bolt right up. Wouldn't I torque to 150 lbs? I sure don't want to crush the sleeve.

That board was just to hold it level when I filled it. I'm thinking a 1 1/2 - 2" angle iron maybe 3/16 thickness with holes drilled into it to bolt onto the yoke. This Nova rear uses straight bolts instead of U bolts so it should bolt right up. Wouldn't I torque to 150 lbs? I sure don't want to crush the sleeve.

Take a small chisel and put a small slash mark on the nut and a corresponding slash mark on the yoke, before taking off the pinion nut. Make sure the marks are lined up when marking them. Use a 1/2" impact and take off the nut, then the yoke. Change the seal, polish the seal area on the yoke and then brake clean the pinion threads as well as the nut, Red Loctite the threads and run the nut back on with the impact, being carefull to align the slash marks. This method works well as it puts the preload back the same as it was before dissasembly. If you dont do it this way, the chances of having the correct rotating pinion brg torque ( 15-25 inch lbs ) is next to impossible with the diff assembled. I have done this tons of times in the shop and it allways worked for me. I also use a little silicone sealant on the seal where it mates to the housing.
Hope this helps.

Do as big gear head says:

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=143934&highlight=replace+pinion+seal

I was going to tackle it today but my nut is a 1 1/4. I guess 8.5 rear ends are larger? I only have a socket in 3/4 drive and I wanted to see how much torque it takes to break it free and then I can't torque it back on with a 3/4 drive. I'll have to pick up a 1/2 drive socket or 1/2 to 3/4 adapter.

Anybody have an estimate what this repair usually costs (assuming rear under the car by then)

may not be the seal it can weep fluid thu the splines if the yoke I put sealer on the splines of the yoke before I install it so replace seal and add sealer to the splines - hope this helps mysterious leaks with new seals

Thanks for all the suggestions. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to hold the yoke when breaking the pinion nut free? The book calls for tool J-8614-1 "Flange/Pulley Holding Tool". I haven't called any of the local auto parts stores that loan tools but I don't get a hit on their websites. The tool cost like $145 new!

Also how important is it to replace the pinion nut? And why is it worth $9?

Before I made my own tool I used a large pipe wrench with a cheater bar on it. This worked fine, but left marks on the yoke.

I forgot I have a 24" pipe wrench. I don't need to worry about breaking a lip off the yoke?

Place the pipe wrench behind the U-joint saddles, not towards the front at all.

LMAO......Dishwasher :D

Lets see the intake, all brackets, bellhousing, pullys. The came out so clean and wonderful smelling. Did all this last weeknd while the wife was out shopping....she never knew :thumbsup:

Scott

Oh BTW I learned one lesson from filling it up. Never admit to the wife that the funky smell in the dishwasher is AMSOIL being washed off her measuring cup and funnel. Ahh two times through and you couldn't smell it any longer.


Hilarious. Also, be wary when using her oven to cure Thermotec high heat sealer on exhaust parts.

My wife let me have the turkey baster recently so I could drain the brake fluid out of the master cylinder. Oh crap, we're having Thanksgiving at our house this year...

Make sure and check the hub on the pinion yoke for a groove where the seal ride's.