I have the chance to buy these two trucks from a friend of mine up north. He has a clear title for the white truck but nothing more than a bill of sale on the green one. Both are/were long bed 3/4 tons but he started shortening the frame and bed on the white truck but it needs finished. Both dont look to ruff to me but then again, I am usually the biggest sucker when it comes to basket case projects because I enjoy the challange. :o
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/1956whitepulside.jpg

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/1956purtside.jpg

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/1956whitepufrt.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/1956greenleftside.jpg

Any idea what they would be worth?

Thanks in advance,

no idea but they are cool trucks and dont look to be in bad shape. i say go for it. (man it is easy to spend other people's money ;) )

I say go for the blue Camaro on the ground in front of them.

I was building Good Humor Ice Cream truck replicas 6 years ago and would have paid 1K-2K each for what's there with a motor and relatively solid.. 56's (wrap around windshield)bring the most coin. 40-45K back then. I paid $3500 for a 53 that was driven to me and cut it up in one hour for a conversion. They are so easy to build. I still have the insulated box specs somewhere.

Thanks Guys. We haven't really agreed on a price yet but I think I can pick up the pair for somewhere in the 1500.00 - 2000.00 range. he said he would include a 2nd gen subframe and rearend to put under the white truck. Also forgot to mention he said the white truck also comes with a 460/C6 combo but he claims the motor wouldn't turn over. :(

The white one is a Custom Cab and a 1-ton model, eight lug wheels.
The green one is a 1/2 ton, five lug wheels.
Wraparounds are nice, love the green truck's West Coast mirrors, install a nice teak wood floor, electric wipers, and plenty sheet metal thickness.

Hopefully, the equipment tag is on the glovebox door denoting rear axle ratio and other tidbits of the truck. Common practice to put late model frontend underneath to remove/upgrade the kingpin/leaf spring suspension. also, makes it easier for engine transplant.

Only way to keep a Ford running is to install a Chevy engine........

nice trucks!! love the wrap arounds!!

no idea but they are cool trucks and dont look to be in bad shape. i say go for it. (man it is easy to spend other people's money ;) )

I agree old trucks are great and hope to get another one in the near future.

Thanks guys. are they priced right if I can get the pair between 1500.00-2000.00? I am headed up there this weekend to see them in person and plan to take a trailer.

Everett,

Good catch on the green truck, He told me they were both 3/4 tons trucks and I didn't even look at the front axle on the green truck. What is the dirrerence between a custom cab and the regular? Is it a trim package? Just looking at the pics I dont really notice a difference.

Thanks Again,
:beers:

I would save the Camaro first. I can't see the pair of trucks being worth more than 500.00. Basically parts that you have to work at to sell them so what is your time worth ? But then some Ford Truck guy might come and point out that some little widget on each truck is worth 1000.00 . Asking Camaro guys values on these trucks is probably going to get you bad advise.

What is the dirrerence between a custom cab and the regular? Is it a trim package? Just looking at the pics I dont really notice a difference. Thanks Again,:beers:
Interior trim (chrome) and seat covering, kindda like the difference between standard interior and deluxe interior.

I would save the Camaro first. I can't see the pair of trucks being worth more than 500.00. Basically parts that you have to work at to sell them so what is your time worth ? But then some Ford Truck guy might come and point out that some little widget on each truck is worth 1000.00 . Asking Camaro guys values on these trucks is probably going to get you bad advise.

Like I said, after the conversion they were bringing 40-45K 6 years ago. And they did not have to be perfect because G.H. Ice Cream trucks never were. That's a lot more than a restored truck would bring. The market was hot then, I did 5 in 2 years. Don't know about now.

That is the only vehicle left that I want ands do not have yet. I want a Canary yellow 56 F-100 with a 390 interceptor and an AOD with tweed interior like maroon or deep red, ox blood red. I think it would be a kewl truck 1500 sounds about right to me. for both of them of course.

Thanks guys for the info. he called me and said he had something come up and wont be available this weekend, so i am headed up there tomorrow afternoon. I plan to haul back the White truck and then go back in a couple of weeks to pick up the Green one. I will post a few pics once I get it home.:)

Thanks Again,
:beers:

Update..
I got home around 11:30 last night with the White truck. I bought the pair for 1000.00 so I fell like it was a pretty good deal. I plan to go pick up the Green truck as soon as I get some free time in the next couple of weeks.

Thanks Again for the help guys & here are a couple more pics.
:beers:

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2731.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2730.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2732.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2726.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2727.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2728.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2729.jpg

very nice, good luck with them.

Congrats on your purchase. Now he's gonna havta mow where they useta to sit.........I don't think that will ever happen........

Congrates on your getting them both :thumbsup:

There look fairly solid, good base for a couple street rod type trucks.
Both look amazingly rust-free compared to what I usually see out this way :hurray:

The 'green' one looks like it has some sort of disc conversion :confused:
May be a 'Volari' front end under it already, if not a F-boby clip ...

Let me know if you need parts info or clues where to look for rust :o
I'm just finishing body/paint on a "Bubble-side" F-100 for my son.
Believe-it-or-not - all the bed and rear parts are nearly the same and fully interchangable from 1947 thru 1972 :yes:

Looking forward to more pictures :beers:

Here’s a shot of my 56 Big Window.
I also have a 55 standard cab, It’s a x Los Angles department of water and power truck.
½ ton with a utility box bone stock.
Love these F-100’s, Good luck on your projects.

Thanks guys I am pretty excited about starting on them.

John,

They turned out to be much more solid than I expected. When we tossed the front clip back on it to haul it home I noticed a little rust on the passenger side down low at the bottom of the cab where the fender bolts on but nothing major. The 460/C6 combo has got to go i will most likely just do a SBC wit an automatic. I do plan to clip the from with the Camaro subframe he gave me but I am not sure on the rearend, may just go with a 9" ford.

I would really appreciate any info you can give me on where to find parts of just any advice you or anyone else has.

The green truck just has the stock 1/2 ton axle under it but it is missing one of the springs or at least that is what he told me. It rained off and on the whole time I was there so I didn't really get under it to look and it wa getting late, plus I still had a 3 hour ride home. There is however another pair of doors, running boards, tail gate and an early T Bird hood and bumper in the the back. He gave itall to me so maybe I can sel the T Bird parts and make a couple of bucks. :)


Dean,
:thumbsup: Love your truck. What suspension do you have under it?

Thanks Again,

Plymouth Volare front clip 9" ford in the rear,
After looking at my picture I just ordered rear bumper re-location braces, tucks the bumper up 3" and forward 2", Pulling the crate 302 out and putting a Boss 351& C-6 in it’s place, Next project after my Camaro is done.

the 64 Tbird bumper and grille in the bed of the green truck is worth about $500 by itself ....

Thanks guys I am pretty excited about starting on them.

... I would really appreciate any info you can give me on where to find parts of just any advice you or anyone else has.

Thanks Again,

There are probably more F-100 dealer than Camaro l:)
Start with places like Dennis Carpenter - http://www.dennis-carpenter.com/ and then look at LMC Truck, NPD and others as needed.
There's also lots of businesses that sell specialty 'updating' parts like power windows, lighting and other parts - do some searching on Google and subscibe to "Classic Trucks" - you'll find all you'll need :yes:

Looking forward to updates!

John

the 64 Tbird bumper and grille in the bed of the green truck is worth about $500 by itself ....

That's good news. :D if I can get them sold it will have been a really good deal. :yes:

There are probably more F-100 dealer than Camaro l:)
Start with places like Dennis Carpenter - http://www.dennis-carpenter.com/ and then look at LMC Truck, NPD and others as needed.
There's also lots of businesses that sell specialty 'updating' parts like power windows, lighting and other parts - do some searching on Google and subscibe to "Classic Trucks" - you'll find all you'll need :yes:

Looking forward to updates!

John

:thumbsup: Will do, Thanks John. I hope to get the Camaro clip mocked up this weekend. I haven't desided on what to do with the rear end to lower it. The thing sits up like a lifted 4x4, but there doesn't appear to be that much clearance between the frame and axle to lower it much with out running into a problem. :confused: Are people stepping or notching the rear frame to get these trucks to sit more like a street rod?

Thanks Again,

... sits up like a lifted 4x4, but there doesn't appear to be that much clearance between the frame and axle to lower it much with out running into a problem. :confused: Are people stepping or notching the rear frame to get these trucks to sit more like a street rod?

Thanks Again,

Yeah Nick - they sit up pretty high in the a$$ from Furd :sad:
The 'hardcore' guys are notching and 'Z-ing' the rear half to get them in the weeds - but, I've been fairly successful getting a nice stance with a good looking 'Rake' by just using simple spring, mount and pads swapping efforts. This does limit the rear travle quite a bit, but for most casual use street and cruising trucks it's not been an issue.
The problem of starting to modify the frames much past a simple couple inches of notch is that you are limited by the bottom of the bed - you can move the mechanical up into the open portion of the space between the bed and frame @3~4" on most trucks with not much effort, beyond that you are either moving the bed base up (to keep a flat floor) or building "humps" in the bed floor areas, not the 'prettiest' way of doing it IJMHO's ). Moving the floor base up a few inches isn't that hard and still looks pretty stock - going much more leaves only @12" of 'free-board' under teh bed rail and starts to look pretty hoaky, to say nothing of the issues it raises in modifying the tailgate to work and look right ...
The choice of tire/rim sizes can help here if you buck the current trent of 'huge-is-always-better' ;)
I tend to go realitively wide and sort for most builds on these and that helps hold the rear down and still has a good overall look.
Get a few issues of "Classis Trucks" and few others and study the frames offered by the aftermarket companies and how others are doing their trucks and I think you'll get a good handle on what needs done and how to do it best :thumbsup:

"Fiddling" around with the rear fenders and how they look can help with the stance also ;)
On my son's 'Bubble' truck I ended up 'bobbing' the bottoms off slightly on the rears and bringing them level with the bottom body lines of the truck before working on the lowering - while playing around (mocked-up on jacks with no suspension) with the "look" I noticed this distracting from the lower lines - so off they came and he really likes the results.
We're not using the 'running boards' though, so this has to be worked out on each build ...

Hope some of this helps;
John

ps: IMHO the Camaro front clip is a better choice than the Volari types as it is able to better handle the wieght of the truck. The Camaro probably has a simular base curb wieght and load on the front to the truck. I've had some issues holding the volari based (and 'fatboy' Mustang based unit as well) in alignment when combined with a heaver engine combo. The volari was a pretty small car to begin with and Chrysler was never known to over-design their suspensions ;) The adjustable bars to set ride hieght are nice, but the area you will probably end up setting them at is right at the limits anyway, so I don't mind design the stance and ride into the frame to begin with.
And engine/driveline fitment is MUCH easier with the GM clip ...

Great Info John Thank you so much.
I spent about 5 hours today out there mocking up the Camaro clip. Still need to do a bit more fitting then I should be able to start boxing the stock frame and making the plates to blend it in so it looks nice. Here is the short version ;)
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2745.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2754.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2755.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2757.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2760.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2766.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2767.jpg

I went to a little cruise in tonight and there was a really nice looking 56 there. I peeked under it and he only had 3 springs in the back. My truck has 9. :eek: I may try 5 and see how it sits first.

If you all see anything that I am doing that looks out of place please say so.

Thanks Again for all your help,
:beers:

Good project. Would you measure diagonally with the rear axle to see if it is square?

Good project. Would you measure diagonally with the rear axle to see if it is square?

I probably should, I have been using a couple fixed points on the frame to cross measure it with and so far I am with in an 1/8. I think if I keep playing with it I can get is square.

Maybe at the bottom of the list once all together, a four-wheel alignment should be performed.

Maybe at the bottom of the list once all together, a four-wheel alignment should be performed.

Good point. :yes:

Thanks

I welded in the Camaro clip in this morning. Still need to box the stock frame & make some plates to blend it in, but I think I might wait on that until I pull the cab off the frame just so it is all easier to get to.

I suspect the front end will drop another 3-4 inches when it has the weight of the engine, trans and the rest of the sheet metal. I think may go ahead & swap in the Camaro rear end next so I can get the tail end out of the clouds. ;)
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2775.jpg

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2776.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2778.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2777.jpg

Lookin' good I like your notes on the firewall, I think your alignment might be off, the
right tire is wearing on the inside, (kidding). You do kwik work, haven't had it a week yet.

You're movin' right along :hurray:

I agree with Everett's recommendation to get a good alignment shop to set it up for you when done :yes:
I've found a good 4-wheel thrust aligment and a few camper tweeks can really improve the response and handeling of frame swaps. Nothing like knowing which way it's gonna go when you nail the throttle or stand on the binders ;)

You may want to give the front of the frame a good once over while you're where you're at before you start the boxing work.
I think you'll find it easier to mock-up the front end right now and see where it's gonna set and how you're gonna need to graft the original F-100 front frame horns on - if you're planning on using them.
I like to try to get some idea of the stance at this point so I know about how much work I have to get where I'm headed.
Let's me know how I need to fab things up in the back and some idea of where things will be in the front at the hieghts I'm liking.
Be thinking of exhaust routing and fuel tank location (if you're gonna move it out of cab, like I always do ; ) so you don't have any obvious interferences in the future ... (ps: an early Bronco or Mustang fuel tank fits pretty well in the rear frame tire area, but I usually fab one to fit exactly where I need it. )
When you pull the cab you'll be ahead already in the planning so the boxing doesn't screw up you're access and mounting of the 'other stuff'.
I like to make my boxing plates of slightly heavier gauge material than others usually - this gives me some extra resistance to warping during the prolonged welding necessary as well as support for drilling/tapping it for fuel line mounts and other things into it at a later date. I taper them at the edges so they fit slightly into the rail (@1/16~1/8") and still leave a slight bit hanging out to weld to the rail edge and then allow grinding to smooth and blend them.
These early frames are definitely ones that you want to spend time on getting them stiffened to handle modern powerplants and suspension stresses :yes:
You may also want to fab a plate across the back of the frame and cut in a 2X reciever so you can pull with it. You can tuck it up behind the rear pan if you use one or fab it to come through a fold-up (or down) license plate on a stock bumper.

Oh - forgot to give you a link to a very good 50's only F-100 vendor - http://www.midfifty.com/

They are fast and VERY competative with the others :thumbsup:

I welded in the Camaro clip in this morning. Still need to box the stock frame & make some plates to blend it in, but I think I might wait on that until I pull the cab off the frame just so it is all easier to get to.

I suspect the front end will drop another 3-4 inches when it has the weight of the engine, trans and the rest of the sheet metal. I think may go ahead & swap in the Camaro rear end next so I can get the tail end out of the clouds. ;)
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2775.jpg

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2776.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2778.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2777.jpg

Lookin' good!!!!!!

David F.

Lookin' good I like your notes on the firewall, I think your alignment might be off, the
right tire is wearing on the inside, (kidding). You do kwik work, haven't had it a week yet.

You're movin' right along :hurray:

I agree with Everett's recommendation to get a good alignment shop to set it up for you when done :yes:
I've found a good 4-wheel thrust aligment and a few camper tweeks can really improve the response and handeling of frame swaps. Nothing like knowing which way it's gonna go when you nail the throttle or stand on the binders ;)

You may want to give the front of the frame a good once over while you're where you're at before you start the boxing work.
I think you'll find it easier to mock-up the front end right now and see where it's gonna set and how you're gonna need to graft the original F-100 front frame horns on - if you're planning on using them.
I like to try to get some idea of the stance at this point so I know about how much work I have to get where I'm headed.
Let's me know how I need to fab things up in the back and some idea of where things will be in the front at the hieghts I'm liking.
Be thinking of exhaust routing and fuel tank location (if you're gonna move it out of cab, like I always do ; ) so you don't have any obvious interferences in the future ... (ps: an early Bronco or Mustang fuel tank fits pretty well in the rear frame tire area, but I usually fab one to fit exactly where I need it. )
When you pull the cab you'll be ahead already in the planning so the boxing doesn't screw up you're access and mounting of the 'other stuff'.
I like to make my boxing plates of slightly heavier gauge material than others usually - this gives me some extra resistance to warping during the prolonged welding necessary as well as support for drilling/tapping it for fuel line mounts and other things into it at a later date. I taper them at the edges so they fit slightly into the rail (@1/16~1/8") and still leave a slight bit hanging out to weld to the rail edge and then allow grinding to smooth and blend them.
These early frames are definitely ones that you want to spend time on getting them stiffened to handle modern powerplants and suspension stresses :yes:
You may also want to fab a plate across the back of the frame and cut in a 2X reciever so you can pull with it. You can tuck it up behind the rear pan if you use one or fab it to come through a fold-up (or down) license plate on a stock bumper.

Oh - forgot to give you a link to a very good 50's only F-100 vendor - http://www.midfifty.com/

They are fast and VERY competative with the others :thumbsup:

Lookin' good!!!!!!

David F.


Thanks Guys. :)

John awesome info as always Thank you.

I do plan to section the stock frame horns back on it and will get that done before the cab comes off. I just figured I would wait to brace and box the frame until I had the cab off so everything is easier to get to. I am a much better welder when I not laying on my back. Plus I still need to remove the front rear lief spring mounts and whats left of a brace someone torched off the truck some where in it's life. I also managed to save the secondary vin # I found on the passenger frame rail when I section the clip.:hurray:

I was really excited to see how this thing is going to sit so after I pulled the front off the stands I jacked up the back and yanked the big 8 lug rearend out. I have a 8.5 10 bolt out of the same Camaro the clip came from that I will put under it also. I ordered a set of spring pads today from Summit so hopefully they will get here before the weekend so I can mock up the rearend. Also pulled 5 of the 9 springs out of the rear springs, I figured I would try it and see where it sits and go from there. I wanted to just pull the rear springs completely off as there is some play in the bushings, but I am embarrased to admit, I could figure out how to remove the pins that held them in. they have greese zerks but no bolt head to remove them. :confused: Any advice on how to get them off?

The gas tank will go behind the rearend. I just figured I would make something but if a Bronco or mustang will fit that works for me. :)

Great idea on the hitch, :thumbsup: I will add that as well.

Thanks Again for the help, I really apreciate it.

You might find the shackle bolts are part of the shackle itself and just remove the nuts; bolts go with one side of the shackle.

Placing the rear axle above the springs would lower the frame by 3-4 inches as OE design has the springs above the axle tubes. Then sectioning the frame may still have to be done to gain clearance for travel.

You might find the shackle bolts are part of the shackle itself and just remove the nuts; bolts go with one side of the shackle.
...

"Close" ;)
The rear shackle pins are retained by a 'Set-screw' (fits in a flat on the pins) on these early trucks.
You should be able to see the screw head from the rear of the lower Wish-boned shaped shackle lever.
Early years were a sloted head, later years were allen drive - but I've seen a mix on many trucks ...

The front shackles were and assembly that you removed the nuts from the inside and then pulled the rest of the stuff (zerk side) out with the arm and pins attached.

Thanks guys I will check it out. :thumbsup:

Small update...

I mocked up the Camaro rear end this afternoon. The truck has dropped 7 inches in the rear with this swap and the fact I only went back with 4 of the 9 springs. :o I'll bet it will drop another 1-2 inches with a little weight back on the truck. I am really having fun putting this together, no rules, no guidelines just get out there and build a hot rod truck. :D

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2779.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2780.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2782.jpg
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http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2787.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2789.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2790.jpg

Update...

I mocked up the front half of the frame yesterday afternoon so I could test fit the front end and get an idea where this thing is going to sit. Today after lunch I went out and tried to set in a motor & trans on the mounts but it looks like I will need to recess the firewall to use the factory Camaro mounts, or I can just fab up new mounts to set the motor 4 inches farther forward. I think I prefer to set the motor back and cut the firewall so I can just use a set of Camaro headers and I wont have to deal with exhaust clearance issues.

Brian (Tall Guy) was kind enough to come over this afternoon and help me carry the front clip around from the back and set it on so I could check alignment between the front end and the cab. So far the fit all looks really good so I think I can finish bracing and boxing the frame once I get the cab off.

With the front end on and Brain standing on the front bumper for a little weight this thing is in the weeds. :cool: maybe to low I measured 4 1/2 inches between the ground and the bottom of the front bumper & only 9 inches from the top of the bumper to the ground. I may need to go with a heavier spring up front once it is all said & done. But for right now it looks pretty cool.




http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2804.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2805.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2806.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2807.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2808.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2809.jpg

The front tire looks tiny in the wheel well but it is 25" tall. :o

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2810.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2812.jpg

Looking good so far! Nice work.

Now would be the time to do the diagonal axle measurement. The 14X5 wheels are skinnies. If you stick with stock steelies, try to find a set of 14 or 15X6 'station wagon' wheels as they have the same backspacing, but more tread further out. You'll know when you see them, the interface between the hub and rim, another inch is showing.

Chop the cab, or staying stock? It looks good just the way it sets.
You do have a window shade on the garage door/wall and writing down all of the 'as-built' dimensions, then later fill in with part numbers of all items used?

Looking good so far! Nice work.

Now would be the time to do the diagonal axle measurement. The 14X5 wheels are skinnies. If you stick with stock steelies, try to find a set of 14 or 15X6 'station wagon' wheels as they have the same backspacing, but more tread further out. You'll know when you see them, the interface between the hub and rim, another inch is showing.

Chop the cab, or staying stock? It looks good just the way it sets.
You do have a window shade on the garage door/wall and writing down all of the 'as-built' dimensions, then later fill in with part numbers of all items used?


Thanks Everett.

I measured any and every way I can think of and so far it looks to be square. :hurray: On the wheels I am thinking when the time comes of running Weld Drag Stars 15x7 with a 235x60 on the front and 15x8 on the rear with a 255x60. Although, I may need to go a bit taller on the tires when the truck is at driven weight so I can get it up off the ground a bit. I am still concerned it will be bordering on sitting to low to drive. :o

Originally I was toying with the idea of taking 2"s out of the cab, but now after seeing it lowered I think I will leave it alone. I do have my dimensions written down but since I haven't really bought any parts yet, I don't have any part #'s.

I want to get out to the U Pull It and find a tilt column and some kind of seat next. It would be nice to mock up the steering next, then I should be able to pull the cab and finish up all the welding on the frame.

Update...
... The front tire looks tiny in the wheel well but it is 25" tall. :o


Those wheel wells have been a bain of many F-100 builders, including me :(
On one I put together on a El Camino frame I sectioned the front fender, moving the opening futher forward to help with that awkward rearward spacing, and lower it @ 2" to tuck the tire combo up inside a bit and make the truck look lower without sacrificing ground clearance (that front end 'droop' is close enough from the factory ...


... with a 235x60 on the front and 15x8 on the rear with a 255x60. Although, I may need to go a bit taller on the tires when the truck is at driven weight so I can get it up off the ground a bit. I am still concerned it will be bordering on sitting to low to drive. :o
...

Also consider adjusting the sidewall height some to compensate for the big wheel houses.
Using a 65~70 series sidewall will help with clearances and still give the truck a great stance. You'll gain @1"+ with one ratio chance and not have to fear pot-holes and abrupt driveway curbs as much :thumbsup:
If you do plan to use the truck to haul anything or tow a decent size trailer you should also be looking at a minimum of a 70 series sidewall for the rear. I've found that with the added tongue wieght the sidewall was really getting a workout on a 60 series tire combo, also suffered a damaged rim ...

I agree with your decision to leave the cab hieght allone - makes for a much more comfortable truck if you like to use as a daily driver :thumbsup:

Those wheel wells have been a bain of many F-100 builders, including me :(
On one I put together on a El Camino frame I sectioned the front fender, moving the opening futher forward to help with that awkward rearward spacing, and lower it @ 2" to tuck the tire combo up inside a bit and make the truck look lower without sacrificing ground clearance (that front end 'droop' is close enough from the factory ...



Also consider adjusting the sidewall height some to compensate for the big wheel houses.
Using a 65~70 series sidewall will help with clearances and still give the truck a great stance. You'll gain @1"+ with one ratio chance and not have to fear pot-holes and abrupt driveway curbs as much :thumbsup:
If you do plan to use the truck to haul anything or tow a decent size trailer you should also be looking at a minimum of a 70 series sidewall for the rear. I've found that with the added tongue wieght the sidewall was really getting a workout on a 60 series tire combo, also suffered a damaged rim ...

I agree with your decision to leave the cab hieght allone - makes for a much more comfortable truck if you like to use as a daily driver :thumbsup:

Thanks John great info as always. :yes:

can I ask what size tire & rim combo you are running and what kind of ground clearance you have? I can see where I need at the very least a 2" taller tire up front just so it wont look like a doughnut ;) in the front wheel well.

I still plan to fab a receiver hitch in the rear frame even though I dont really have any plans to tow anything. I just figure, it's just too easy to do it and fab a roll pan to hide it now rather then down the road as an after thought.

Thanks Again all for the great help & ideas,
:beers:

I've done several combo's over the years on my trucks.
I usually stay in the 15" range if I'm running "Steelies" - something like a 285~295/70 - 15 is about as big as I've gone on anything I drove.
I had 255/70 - 15's on one and they looked nice and performed very well.
Alot depends on your final gearing and what look and function you want.
I have stuffed a 295/65 - 17 under one with a friend - it looked really killer stuffed up in there, but he hardly ever drove it and I don't know how that would do in the long run.

If you can get the tire combo up to where the top is slightly hidden by the lip of the wheel house then you get a killer look on most trucks.
The trick is getting it up there with diameter and not just suspension so you can maintain ride quality and still use it.
If you plan to use it and also do some cruising, then I would sellect a combo for that.

Dang - forgot to say ...
When you go to the wrecking yard looking for steering columns, check out the Tilt-type used in full size GM vans :thumbsup:
Usually a good length, already have a GM end for the F-body steering box and they are easy to get parts for.

I've done several combo's over the years on my trucks.
I usually stay in the 15" range if I'm running "Steelies" - something like a 285~295/70 - 15 is about as big as I've gone on anything I drove.
I had 255/70 - 15's on one and they looked nice and performed very well.
Alot depends on your final gearing and what look and function you want.
I have stuffed a 295/65 - 17 under one with a friend - it looked really killer stuffed up in there, but he hardly ever drove it and I don't know how that would do in the long run.

If you can get the tire combo up to where the top is slightly hidden by the lip of the wheel house then you get a killer look on most trucks.
The trick is getting it up there with diameter and not just suspension so you can maintain ride quality and still use it.
If you plan to use it and also do some cruising, then I would sellect a combo for that.

Dang - forgot to say ...
When you go to the wrecking yard looking for steering columns, check out the Tilt-type used in full size GM vans :thumbsup:
Usually a good length, already have a GM end for the F-body steering box and they are easy to get parts for.


Thanks John,
Now I know what to look for as far as the column goes any Idea what fits for a seat? I would almost prefer a bench but if I cant find one I will go with buckets.

I think I worked out my firewall clearance issues tonight. The motor I was using for mock up had a 7 quart Milodon(sp) pan on it so I grabed another old builder block I had with a stock pan and if I move the mounts 3.5" back it will drop right with about 3/4 of an inch clearance with the cross member and plenty of clearance up top with the firewall for an HEI or whatever I want to run. The mounts will be a breeze to make & as far as exhaust I may just run manifolds or maybe shorty headers.


http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2815.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2813.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2814.jpg

I thought I would post a few progress pics.

I worked out the motor & trans mounts to raise the motor a little higher and move it forward a bit to clear the firwall.

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2829.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2828.jpg

Started blending the front half of the old frame to the Camaro clip

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2840.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2841.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2844.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2845.jpg

I mocked up a mid 80's van tilt column and a pair of 2003 Dodge power seats..
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2821.jpg

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2820.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/x77d80/HPIM2818.jpg

I think I am ready to pull the cab off the frame and finish boxing the clip where it is joined under where the cab sits. I am still kind of up in the air on weather I should go with a hanging brake pedal or use the one that goes though the floor. Any thoughts on that? What are some of you using that have built these trucks?