alright heres the deal my 89 305 rs starts up but wont stay idle it dies out an i've looked at kragen, autozone for a new M/C solenoid but no luck should pocket for new carb or hit up pick n pull/ car junk yards......?

Thomas,
I got one for my Wife's 84 Riviera at the dealer about a year ago. Have you tried the Chevy dealer ? Also, are you sure that is the problem ? It really should idle even with the MC solonoid not working. Can you hear it "clicking" when you turn the key on ?

You really need to put a scanner on it and see what the MC dwell is before you start changing things. Also, there is a small set of special tools you need to adjust the new solonoid when you replace it, without the tools and a scanner, its pretty hard to do anything with the electronic Q-jets.

By the way, if it was running ok till just recently, I would stay away from the reman carbs and try to fix yours. I have heard a lot of horror stories about them being worse than the old one that was taken off :( If nothing else, make sure to save your old carb until you are absolutely sure that the new one works properly.

not sure if i missed something, but an '89 305 rs is fuel injected and as such does not have an m/c solenoid.

not sure if i missed something, but an '89 305 rs is fuel injected and as such does not have an m/c solenoid.

That must be it! :D

well i have the scanner an it gave me 2 flashes pause then three i have the for from autozone an itsaid to check the wiring connections i did its seems fine and i had my dad come take a look he said it was drowning itself...its starts, idels, then turns off. mine is t.hrottle b.ody i.njected

check all the sensor wiring.
a temp sender that is shorting out will cause all sorts of weird problems. if it runs good when cold but then starts running progressively worse as it warms up, then i'd check to make sure that the temp sender wires aren't shorting together.
O2 sensor will also cause it to act all wonky after it warms up.
check the hose to the MAP sensor- a bad vacuum reading will cause the computer to freak out.
check that the TPS voltage is good at idle, and that it kicks out a smooth signal as you open the throttle.
and finally- check for vacuum leaks. grab a 13mm socket and snug down the throttle body bolts, and make sure the hoses to the PCV valve and brake booster are in good shape.
this is all basic stuff that costs nothing and only takes a little time to check.

good **** well the trouble code im positive now means the (mat) sensor manifold air temp so how does this work.....?