Hi, is there a way to use the drum spindle and convert to disc brake???

any kind of adaptor plate or machining to do

thank you

I believe many kits now use the drum spindle.

I have a little fixture I use that guides my hacksaw when I cut the upper boss down to fit the disc backing plate.

Patric -

There is info on Dave Pozzi's site about cutting/machining the upper boss down enough to accept the caliper bracket for an OE style DB setup.

http://www.pozziracing.com/brakes.htm#Converting_Drums_to_Discs

There are kits with larger than OE rotors that use the drum brake spindles as is. A search here for "CBB" (cheap big brakes) should get a lot of info, and I think some of the same info is on Pozzi's site where I linked to.

I have a little fixture I use that guides my hacksaw when I cut the upper boss down to fit the disc backing plate.You have a bar napkin drawing of said fixture?

You have a bar napkin drawing of said fixture?

I'm not much of a draftsman, but it's basically two pieces of 1/4" bar stock that attach to the spindle by the steering arm bolts and extend upwards past the upper mounting boss. Welded across these is another piece of bar stock with a hole in it large enough to go over the upper mounting boss. I used an actual disc spindle to locate the height of the crosspiece and welded it in place. Now, I bolt this fixture to a drum spindle and cut the boss off flush with the surface of the crosspiece using a common hacksaw.

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f58/markx22/th_img128.jpg (http://s45.photobucket.com/albums/f58/markx22/?action=view&current=img128.jpg)
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f58/markx22/th_img127.jpg (http://s45.photobucket.com/albums/f58/markx22/?action=view&current=img127.jpg)

I went this route once and if my memory is correct it seemed the threaded 5/8" hole became a bit short for comfort. I think I had to shorten the upper 5/8" bolt to keep it from bottoming out. Now with the very good pricing on complete kits with correct forged spindles I don't bother with modifying drum spindles.

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f58/markx22/th_Copyofspindlethread.jpg (http://s45.photobucket.com/albums/f58/markx22/?action=view&current=Copyofspindlethread.jpg)if you drill deeper be careful not to drill to deep or you could go through .

Thanks for the drawings and description.

The 4-piston Wilwood setup I put on my car 10 years ago was a direct bolt-on using the front drum spindles. Had the adapter plate for their calipers and all the required goodies in the kit. The rear had plates that simply bolt to the flange on the axle housing. Took me one day to do the fronts, doing each side separate, and one day to do the rears. This included installing a new master cylinder, adjustable proportioning valve, and bleeding the system.

You can get an adapter bracket made of billet aluminum that bolts to your drum spindle. If you are running a 17 inch wheel you can run a 13 inch C-4 rotor and a C-5 Corvette caliper. Nice clean set-up. I got mine from thecamaroshop@comcast.net

I used my original drum spindles and shortened the upper boss.

The way that I got the upper boss cut down to the perfect dimension was to bolt the caliper bracket to the spindle at the bottom, then rotate the bracket up until it made contact with the side of the upper boss, marked the boss, then cut it off at the mark.
Worked like a charm.
I guess doing it this way will take into account any variations in the shape of the caliper bracket from different manufacturers or whatever. It's guaranteed to fit the spindle flush at the upper and lower bosses that way.
:)

This might help... http://www.camaros.net/techref/articles/ftecref012.html

Please do a search under "pdqCBB" set-up and you will find out what I learned.

13" disc's are on the front of my car now as well as the rear "pdqCBB" w/ 11.75" too.

pdq67