I am thankful to this forum for pointing out the disadvantages in using the drop spindles to lower the front suspension. I do want to lower my 68 around 2" in the front and I thought this would be the easiest way not even thinking of issues like the tie rods hitting the tyres etc. I was also thinking of coil overs such as the QA1's. Can these be used with stock control arms and do they give you control over the ride height.Forgive my lack of knowledge but I don't fully understand how these coilovers are mounted. Do the upper end of the springs fit into the subframe towers and the bottom of the springs sit on the adjustable rings of the shocks and the bottom of the shocks bolt to the bottom control arm?? This just didn't seem right to me because instead of the spring pushing down on the lower control arm, wouldn't it be in effect pushing down on the two 5/16" bolts that bolt the bottom of the shock to the lower control arm??
Thanks,
Pete

I would (and did) go with the Hotchkis 2" lowering springs.

i had the same concerns with coilover and stock a arm, go with hotchkis.

Thanks Sean and Tom for the replies. I was talking to a few friends who also suggested the 2" lowering springs as being the best option, probably a cheaper way to go as well. I see Tom your car desciption lists the AGR steering. Is yours the 12:1 ratio box? My car has the old manual box so if I was to get this box I would have to mount a pump which wouldn't be a problem, however, could I have issues with the box itself. As it is I had to modify the headers slightly to get clearance on the old box. Is the body of your box about the same as the manual box. Does it make it a lot easier to steer. I read a bit on this and a few people seem to think the 12:1 box is a bit too responsive?
Thanks,
Pete

I have the 16:1 variable ratio (street cruiser) box. I tried the 12:1 box, and I didn't like it. The box is the same size as a stock power steering box. Yes, it will be slightly larger than a manual steering box. If you have the correct frame and engine mounts, you should not have a problem with Header clearance.

I just cut 1 full coil off the tops of my springs and it dropped 2.25". Yes the spring rate increases.
If these are new springs you may want to wait a while ?

before (28.25") http://s10.photobucket.com/albums/a130/Dougs68Camaro/th_531662402_Z49cj-M-1.jpg

After (26") http://s10.photobucket.com/albums/a130/Dougs68Camaro/th_DSCN0322.jpg http://s10.photobucket.com/albums/a130/Dougs68Camaro/th_DSCN0323.jpg

Doug, after seeing those measurements, I measured mine. Rear was fairly even but front was a bit different. Left side 26 3/4" and right side 27 3/8" so probably only needs to be dropped 1 1/2" max. These springs aren't stock. They are actually out of a Holden (GM) 308ci V8 so they are really an unknown quantity. I still think I would be safe enough to just go with the Hotchkis 2" lowered - either that or put a heavier engine in...Ha Ha. Tom, thanks for that info. Yes the frame/mounts are correct, so I should be OK with that same 16:1 vari box. I think I read somewhere that the rag joint is different on these, or maybe it was the spline diameter of the steering box shaft that was different?? Do you know if the flange on the end of the steering column is still OK to use. I only just put this back in as the bottom bearing failed and I machined up a new aluminum housing to use a basic single roller ball bearing. Doing this hasn't changed the position of that flange so hopefully will be OK.

The AGR box is a bolt in. Your old rag joint and the PS lines would bolt right on, if they were for a car that has power steering. Since you don't have power steering to start, I believe the rag joint is different between a PS car and a manual steer. You can use hydraulic PS lines right out of the book. You also will need a new pitman arm. In your situation you really are not gaining much by going with an AGR box over a third gen IROC box. You have to buy the other parts, anyway !

Make sure your springs are clocked correctly.... One easy way to throw off the left/right height measurement.

Another note... you can trim springs a lot or a little... 1/2 coil would be about 1" and even 3/4 on one ...1/2 on the other to level it out :yes:

Thanks Tom for the info. I wasn't aware I had to replace the pitman arm. Do you think Tom, your Camaro feels similar to steer as a power steer car of today? I would think it would at least be a fair bit better than the manual steering I have now.
Doug, I did chop the springs I had in there originally. I new that whatever I shortened them by was about half of what it should drop so I only started with a third of a coil. You know the rest of the story. I ended up cutting that bit too much and it was sitting about 1-1 1/2" lower than what I wanted-Bugger. I had not heard the terminology "clocked in" before but I'm guessing your referring to the rotation of the spring so the tail end fits into the pressed shape of the lower control arm (and tower). If so, I did try and get this the best I could and I believe you are right-it could make a difference in height. Don't know if I want to go through the chopping bit again, so think I will go the Hochkis. They are probably a bit stiffer spring than what I have now, so that might stop the tires rubbing on the inner gaurds as much??

Yes... it happens. But it only costs time when you get it right. :D

As for the springs being "clocked"... Only worry about the top side. There is an alignment hole. Drop in a small screwdriver to use as a stop until springs are in.

Peter, Yes, the steering is firm and fast, very similar to the new vehicles with rack and pinion steering. It is a definate improvement. The pitman arms are different between the manual steer and power steer cars. Just order a pitman arm for a 68 with power steering. - Tom

Thanks Doug, I was concentrating more on the bottom when I did it. I know the hole you are talking about, screwdriver-great idea. I'll let you know if I decide to have another go.
Tom, exactly the answer I was hoping for. Any suggestions on where I purchase it. I guess the price would be fairly similar wherever you buy it. Being in Australia, its usually the freight that makes the biggest difference. Thank you to you both (and Sean) for your replies.
Cheers,Peter

The AGR box can be ordered from Summit Racing.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Product-Line/AGR-Billet-Steering-Boxes/?keyword=AGR%20steering&autoview=SKU

If you go the 3rd gen. route, an auto parts store should be able to fix you up. Order a box for a 1985 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 with sport suspension or special steering. These pictures are from Rock Auto. http://www.rockauto.com/

http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii152/tjs69_photos/steering/steer1.jpg

http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii152/tjs69_photos/steering/steer2.jpg

Is your car a left hand drive (U.S.) or a Right hand drive (Australia) ? If you want an AGR box for your car (if it is right hand drive) You might want to have AGR rebuild your existing box, with the new steering gear.

http://www.agrsteering.com/

Thanks for all your trouble there Tom but I will most likely get the AGR box like yours. Yes, my car is still left hand drive.The law here is that if the vehicle is over thirty years old than you don't have to convert it. I prefer it although it is a little hard when driving in the left lane to be able to see if there are cars coming when you want to overtake!!
Thanks again anyway Tom and by the way, your car sounds a nice ride. Do you have any pics posted?
Cheers,
Peter