Another one. I have searched and read the other related posts. I have a 69 camaro with power brakes using the baer 4 wheel discs. Rod is attached to the bottom hole of pedal. New booster, m/c, hard and soft lines. I have the baer adj prop valve for rear lines mounted under the m/c.
I have fluid to the rear lines, but it doesn't seem to have enough pressure to apply the rear brakes. I have bench bleed the m/c twice, checked the boost pushrod, and adjusted the pedal to be 1/4" from upper stop. I noticed when bleeding the m/c, the rear forces less fluid into the bowl than the front. Assume this is probably normal with most of the braking done with the fronts.
When bleeding the rears (did/done first) the pedal will not go all the way to the floor. It goes about 60%. When I did the fronts. The pedal would go to that same point then I could push it the rest of the way to the flood. I have good brakes in the front. Well I did the first time around. I have't bleed the fronts yet until I understood the rears.

Any advise is appreciated. I was going to look in the bowl again tonight and see if the m/c valve is returning all the way and try loosing the m/c from the boost.

Thanks,
Kevin

Another one. I have searched and read the other related posts. I have a 69 camaro with power brakes using the baer 4 wheel discs. Rod is attached to the bottom hole of pedal. New booster, m/c, hard and soft lines. I have the baer adj prop valve for rear lines mounted under the m/c.
I have fluid to the rear lines, but it doesn't seem to have enough pressure to apply the rear brakes. I have bench bleed the m/c twice, checked the boost pushrod, and adjusted the pedal to be 1/4" from upper stop. I noticed when bleeding the m/c, the rear forces less fluid into the bowl than the front. Assume this is probably normal with most of the braking done with the fronts.
When bleeding the rears (did/done first) the pedal will not go all the way to the floor. It goes about 60%. When I did the fronts. The pedal would go to that same point then I could push it the rest of the way to the flood. I have good brakes in the front. Well I did the first time around. I have't bleed the fronts yet until I understood the rears.

Any advise is appreciated. I was going to look in the bowl again tonight and see if the m/c valve is returning all the way and try loosing the m/c from the boost.

Thanks,
Kevin The only thing i can think of, is the rod from the booster to the m/c is to short... Hope this helps.

Letting the car still for a week, found a fluid leak. The line adapters going into the adjustable prop valve for the rears was leaking. Tightened them up and bleed again. I now have the rear calipers applying. I bleed the fronts and they are applying.

When bleeding I got the same results, where I couldn't get the pedal to go to the floor when I did the rears. I could when I did the fronts. When I pump the brakes. They don't pump up. I do have a hard pedal about 50% of the way down. I have a hard pedal as soon as i start pushing on my convertable with disc/drums set up. I don't have the booster vacumn line attached (engine not installed).

Does this sound right or am I still missing something?

Thanks,
kevin

Make sure you put the pushrod in correctly otherwise the piston in the M/C won't come back far enough to operate the rear brakes. Look down the booster hole that the pushrod goes into. Mine had a small slot that one side of the rod fits into. I put mine in backwards and it stuck out 3/16" too far.

Do those calipers have built-in emergency brakes? The kind with a spring loaded lever and arm on the back side of the caliper? I know they're later model GM brakes but don't know about the setup. If so, the emergency brake has to be adjusted before you can bleed them.

This may be a waste of time but I'm going to go ahead and post how to adjust them anyway just in case.....

Take the spring off the ebrake assembly on the caliper. Put a 0.030 feeler gauge between the inside brake pad and rotor. Start cranking the ebrake lever on the caliper until the piston drives out and clamps the rotor with the pads. Return the lever to home position, reinstall the spring, and remove the feeler gauge. If you've already got the ebrake cables installed you can just activate the ebrake several times until it locks the rear wheels.

On those kind, there is a threaded rod that rotates one way with the ebrake to push the piston out. If it is too far away from the rotor, you reach full stroke with the brake pedal before there is any clamping force so you can't bleed them. Remember that if you ever need to replace pads because the piston actually screws back into the caliper so you have to rent or buy a special tool instead of using a clamp like you can on the fronts.

Thanks for the replys. I have the e-cables attached to the brakes but not attached to the lever. Called Baer about it. They advised shouldn't have to adjust. Concerned about possible leaks. Went around a re-tightened everything. Stripped one of the front adapters (hard line to flex). Got that fixed and re-bleed. Looked at the pedal clearance to the stop again. Seemed too much. Adjusted it and bleed again. Have a hard pedal almost instantly. Hope that's it.
Thanks again.
Kevin