ok, me and a buddy disagree on something, i think for a 1/4 mile setup its better to have a softer spring setup for more weight transfer, a guy i know tells me that isnt true, that id need a stiffer spring that would hold the front end up more, i need some info here, i wanna find some late 60s nova or camaro 6 cyl front springs, i dont drive the corners very fast, i want that thing to have a good launch when at the strip, any thoughts or suggestions appreciated - derek

The way I was taught is that a lighter rate spring with increased free height will store energy when installed. The spring is compressed to installed height and on launch as the weight transfers to the rear the spring wants to open to its free height pushing the front subframe up causing front wheel to body separation. These springs must be custom wound for racing. You cannot get the same results using a spring from a 6 cyl. Eventually the material will fatigue and cause the spring to sag. Most drag springs are made of .500"-.530" dia oil quenched hot rolled steel. Typical free heights range from 15" to 17.5" with an installed height of about 10.5".
Also keep in mind that a leaf spring car should not squat on launch! When the suspension is working right the rear body should lift pushing the tires to the track.

Moog 6314 springs
16.44” …………………….free height
.601”………………………..wire dia.
289 lbs/in………………..rate
1744………………………..total load


I use this spring effectively.

One thing to consider is if your cars isnt that quick and doesnt 60ft very hard
then drag springs (and shocks) can work against you. If you can hook a 13 sec.
or 12 sec. car with a pair of slicks and slapper bars, theres no need for any drag
springs if its hookin good - as the drag springs (and shocks) can/will make the
nose of the car stay up longer there by makin more aerodynamic drag going
down the strip. Same reason a chassis car (with ladder bars / 4-link) has a very
tight front end, the rear suspension plants the tires, and the front is kept tight
(since it hooks) so that there is no wasted motion going up - just forward.
Face it - a 15sec. car dont need no drag springs, but an 11sec. car probably would,
just something to think about.
But if your building a car to 60ft hard, go with some drag springs.
(my car would 60ft low/mid 1.50s with, stiff cut BB springs)

Brian
You gonna try a DP carb soon? graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Yeah, switched to the same carb that was on the BSE small block for years.
Holley 700dp fitted with a Proform "750" main body.
I've been playing around with it, and a few other things.

Unfortunetly it looks like Rain in the forcast for this weekend.

Ed made a pass on the car this past weekend, did a good burnout, then Dead hooked, and the vacuum secondary carb bogged big time. It then came alive and pulled the wheels roughly 4-5" off the ground.
While tuning the vac. secondaries will solve the problem, i've decided that since i can use this double pumper i would try it out.


I agree, drag springs and shocks are a waste of time for a street driven car,
Pick the springs i suggested, they're a Moog spring spec for a 6 cylinder car (there are a bunch of different 6 cylinder springs, i searched the catalog for those).
Also, use Koni Street adjustable shocks, they're a nice shock, and i like the ride on my car.