Its been 15 plus years since i've primed or painted anything major, and there are some things i'm not clear on. I've read so many seemingly contradictory posts in the archives that ive managed to confuse myself. I'd appreciate any input.

I've just finished installing 80% quarters on this 67, (the second and LAST camaro i'll do those on). The first one years ago was a breeze with no problems, but apparently these new skins are much thinner than I used before, and were much more difficult to prevent warpage on. Anyway, with that battle over, I have to deal with properly sealing the seam inside and out, and I'd like to shoot the car with an epoxy primer soon.

First question, is it proper to use filler such as fiberglass "kitty hair" over the weld seam before any primers?, or should I spray something like a self etch primer or epoxy in the seam before the filler goes on? I've recently used some spray bomb Duplicolor self etching primer that seemed to be okay on bare metal, and thought about using that on the seams first, good idea or no? I hope the kitty hair glass filler is okay, I used the all-metal filler before and hated working with it.

Next, I have a combination of new EDP coated sheetmetal, a gel coated fiberglass hood, and the welded and ground back quarters. I plan on removing all the existing old paint to bare metal with a D/a, What grit is best on the D/a? I've read that the edp coating can stay on, how should it be sanded? What about the glass hood?

My local paint shop carries Transtar, and the rep says he has a direct to metal, high build epoxy primer listed, but he was not real familiar with it. seems like this would be the way to go, any opinions on this product? I've only used dp90 in the past.

Hate to ask dumb questions, but would really appreciate any help in doing it right. The last car I painted years ago came out great, but it was pure luck on my part that nothing lifted.

Skip the etch primer and spray bombs and go for epoxy that is best.

There are debates on which is better, filler on bare metal or on top of epoxy primer. If you are concerned about corrosion then epoxy first. If maximum adhesion and strength is required then put filler direct on metal. Either way will work fine. I would put the epoxy on first to seal up metal welds that could hold hidden pits of rust.

Leave EDP coating on. The new stuff is suppose to be pretty good. Just scuff it up for adhesion 220 grit.

DA sand paper grit to remove paint 80 and then follow with 120 to get out scratches.

Glass hood gel coat would scuff up for adhesion again 220. Like painting a Corvette. Corvette guys love epoxy primer to seal up their fiberglass.

Don't know anything about Transtar epoxy ...maybe good. The old 15 years ago DP90 isn't the same as the new stuff.

Put on epoxy primer, then fillers, then some 2k build primer to block it out, and then base coat clear coat. If during sanding any bare metal is exposed hit it again with epoxy to seal up and continue.

Here is a cut an paste instruction from a epoxy manufacturer that seams good


Let the epoxy set overnight and then apply body, or fiberglass filler and glazing putty over the epoxy. It is not necessary to sand the epoxy before applying the fillers, as they will bite into the epoxy, and feather great. When you have finished sanding all of the bodywork, you are likely to have some bare metal spots from sanding. Spray one wet coat of epoxy over all filler spots and over any bare metal spots. Let the vehicle set overnight.

The next day, you can start spraying the 2K primer over the epoxy. Once again, it is not necessary to scuff or sand the epoxy before applying primer. The most important thing to remember at this point, is spray one wet coat of primer, and let it set for 30 minutes before applying the second coat. Follow this procedure between coats of primer. This step, when abused, messes up more paint finishes than anything else!

When all of the primer blocking and any necessary primer repairs have been done, it is always best to use the epoxy as a sealer. Mix up enough epoxy to go around the car with one wet coat, adding a double shot glass of urethane reducer, per quart. Let the epoxy set for 30 minutes. Stir one more time, and strain. Spray one full wet coat of epoxy over the entire car. The epoxy should set for 24 hours, then wet sand as needed, with 600-800 grit paper and then you are ready to base.

Next to rushing the 2K primer, rushing the basecoat is the second cause for the final gloss and depth of a paint job to look bad. It is very important use the slowest urethane reducer in your base that you can get away with, no matter what the outside temperature is. Just allow enough extra time for the basecoat to flash and dry. The difference between a very slow grade and medium grade reducer will show up in the final gloss. The slower grade also has better solvency and will give you far better adhesion. Spray the first coat, and let it totally dry, before spraying the second coat. It is best to wait 45 minutes between coats.



I am sure this paint job will also turn out great.

Hey! just curious. Who did you buy the skins from?

Thanks for the response Casey...great info. That cleared it up for me.

DEROID, the quarter skins were picked up for me as a favor by a friend who went to the Moltrie GA swap meet, to save bucks on the shipping charges. I would have passed on them if I had been there, once he got back with them I was stuck with them.

Sanding the sealer prior to topcoat is unnecessary as stated.
Nor is is standard practice. And so is waiting 24 hours. Epoxy Sealer lays down smoothly because it gets reduced. If there are a few dust nibs you can knock them off. Just shoot it after the sealer flashes as per tech and data requirements. Get a sheet from your supplier or download it on PDF and read it. I use Transtar with no problems as well as other manufactrers.

As far as the EPD goes: it's not all good. If it wipes off with lacquer thinner it's junk. I don't trust anybody's work so I sand it now. There was a time when I did not. However, I never removed it in 25 years of collision work on replacement panels and it never failed. I just used sanding paste, sealed it and shot it.