Okay, I am going to build a 350 for my 67 Camaro from scratch. Goal is to have an honest, repeat honest, 375 horsepower distributed reasonably across a power curve of 1500 to 6500 rpm. Budget is $3,000. Assume all standard blueprinting procedures will be done. I'm looking for suggestions on combinations that really work, not just ones that sound good. Car is driven on the street on nice days only. Suspension has been rebuilt and rear can take the power. Block is in good shape and I'm planning to go .030 over. It's a two bolt but that shouldn't be a problem for this power level.

Get a stroker kit and build a 383,use dart iron eagle heads with 180cc runners and 72cc chambers. Add flat top pistons, set up for .040-.045" piston to head clearance. A 4779 holley on a performer RPM is needed on the intake side and 1 5/8 headers on the exaust. A good ignition system like a MSD is also required, start with 32 degrees total timming, 14 initial + 18 mechanical in by 2500-3000. Add 10 degrees of vacuum advance (manifold vac.) The cam to use will have about 280 degrees adv. duration and lift in the .480 range (I used a comp cam)

This is 9.5 - 1 engine that has excellent street manners, it has a slight lope at idle.
It will give you 375 horsepower and just over 400lbs of torque.

I ran a bunch of simulation Dyno2000 runs last night or the night before.
I started with your average 383, 9.5 CR., dual plane w/ a 3310-2 holley, Sportsman Cast-iron 2.02"/1.60" valve pocket ported heads and four tube 1.625" open headers.
Ran hydraulic cams (110LCA/106ICA, .450"/.450" lifts) from 250/255 to 275/280 advertised durations in 5 degree steps on both intake and exhaust. The engine was held constant.

This might seem strange, but a 260/265 cam produced darn near a flat torque curve (450lb-ft.) from 2000 to 3500rpm and 439lb-ft at 4000rpm and over 360hp at 5000rpm. Now if this isn't a street engine , I don't know what is???
Put a solid cam in it and you gain 10lb-ft. and 10hp. IMHO. pdq67

Corection, 10 to 20+ lb-ft. and 20+hp at the same rpms as the hydraulic above. Sorry for the brain fade... Pdq67

This is actually what I have: 350 .060 3.75 stroke, 388ci, Edelbrock Performer RPM heads with 64cc straight plug, Keith Black 18cc dish pistons, 9.5:1, .040 head gasket, .015 deck, Performer RPM intake, Holley 650DP, Comp Cams Xtreme Energy 274, 230/236 @.050, 1.6 crane energizer rockers yielding .519/.522 lift. 1 5/8 headers with full mandrell bent 2.5 exaust. Electric fan.

In my 70 chevelle, weighs 3630 with me, 2.73 gears and a stock converter. 13.33 @ 107MPH. I shift at 5500, finish in 2nd gear. In about a month I'll let you know what it hits in my 67 Camaro with 4.11's and a 4 speed, 300 pounds lighter...

You can easily run bigger heads, like iron eagle 200's. 72cc heads with flat tops is more like 9.8:1. I don't know the HP, but I'm sure it's not less than 375.

Lonnie

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67 Camaro 410sb 11.63 @117.6
67 Camaro 388 ET-???
website (http://www.geocities.com/lonnie67_1966)

[This message has been edited by Lonnie67 (edited 11-05-2000).]

Thanks--I can't make up my mind since the car has a nice little 327 in it now and I've had one of those since I was 18. I've got a bare 350 block sitting on a stand in the garage so it just depends on what mood I'm in I guess. Since there's no rush, I'll take my time and pay attention to the details. I've got a good machine shop nearby and think I'll give him the 350 block to go .030 over plus line hone, freeze plugs, cam bearings, etc. Just ordered Dyno 2000 so I guess I'll play with that for a while and see what combo's work best. In the meantime I'll put in a Ford 9 inch plus rework the rear suspension and install the subframe connectors that have been in the garage since the spring. Since I only drive this car about once a month, I think I may go for a solid lifter cam just to hear it scream to 7000rpm.

Hey, sorry for not being on topic, but what is this Dyno 2000 software? What does it offer, how much does it cost and where can I get it?

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"If ya can't get yourself a 10, the least you can do is *uck 5 2's!"-Dolemite

Igot,

Dyno2000 and Drag are engine build and dragstrip run simulation programs put out by Motion through Mr.Gasket. I bought my copies from Northern Auto. There is a cam timing spec copy with over 1200 cam spec's listed. Plus an earlier version of Dyno2000 called Desktop Dyno.

They are around $40 each, and alot cheaper if you can find them on sale. Like $75 for the three. 2000, Drag and Cam.

They are a real hoot, but still simulation programs. Best to use to check engine and dragging trends and not numbers even though the numbers are closer then +/-10 percent. Probably like +/-5/7 percent.

Dyno2000 will help you spot mismatched components and will save you from buying the wrong combination of parts thr first time... pdq67

A 383 is the way to go for a stout, driveable street engine with TORQUE, which is what really matters. I've built three of them, all identical, with Lunati cranks (I like forgings, although not necessary for the street), Crower rods, KB hyper flat-tops, Edelbrock Performer RPM straight-plug heads (combo gives 10.4:1 with Fel-Pro gaskets), Performer RPM intake, Holley #0-80145 600cfm 4150 vac. sec. carb, Mallory Unilite vac. adv. distributor, Crane 224/226 @.050" flat-tappet hydraulic cam, CC 1.52 roller-tip steel rockers, Cloyes true-roller timing set, stock oil pump and moly shaft, Clevite bearings. All three were dynoed before installation and produced 420 hp @5600 and 430+ ft-lbs. @ 4200, give or take a few. Big, fat, flat torque curves, super street engines. You can go a little milder on the cam and not lose much. No substitute for low-end torque on the street! When you're done, tell 'em it's a 327 and they won't know the difference (unless they're experts on harmonic balancers).

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JohnZ
'69 Z28 Fathom Green

Igot,

Just got a Motion flyer in the mail.

Motion Software, Inc.
535 West Lambert, Bldg. E
Brea, CA 92821-3911 www.motionsoftware.com (http://www.motionsoftware.com)
Order desk 714-255-2931
FAX 714-255-7956
Programs have been updated Dyno2000, Drag2000 and CamDisk2 now. pdq67

Hey thanks pdq67!

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"If ya can't get yourself a 10, the least you can do is *uck 5 2's!"-Dolemite

I also highly recomend the 383 as engine of choice, I have 2 in my camaros. I have sold hundreds from work, and have installed and tuned many of those. The one in my 79Z28 is the way to go. I drive this car daily, very dependable, and runs great. I still have the stock exhaust and manifolds and the Q jet carb.Car looks stock and passes calif emisions. I have hyperutectic flat tp pistons w/ molly rings prepped 5.7 rods,New cast steel 383 crank, clevite bearings SR Toruer heads 2.02/1.6 with 76 cc. The camshaft is a comp cam marine hydraulic roller with 212/218@.050 and 1.6 magnum roller tips for a .527/.536 lift. Cam was installed 4 degrees back to move the RPM up a little. The motor makes 376 through the manifolds at 5200 w/ 462ft lbs torque. The torque is over 400 from 2000(408ft lbs peak at 3200(462)to 5500(412). The car is restored and stock w/ 3.73 posi andturbo 350 stock gm3 converter. The car ran 13.40's at 103 and that was before I modified the Q jet. It is very responsive and a lot of fun to drive. I am going to put headers on the car, that will make a big differ4ence as you can feel the motor wanting to breath. That is one that works. Galen

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S/B Chevy Lover
67 Camaro street car
10:50's @ 128 on motor w/383 cid
79 Z28 w/383 9.1:1 3.73:1 Restoring stock apearance
13:40's @ 101 stock exh.& intake& Qjet
smog legal
Camaro Lover

If you have a TH-350 I too would have to say 383.Wowever if you have a 700 I would say go for the 350,better milage and because of the trans you have ample torque to fry the hides.
Oh so you say you might just go with a solid cam...Then why not make it a SOLID ROLLER.

You still have to adjust the valves,and it will be super easy to build at least 375 HP and make good torque with either motor.You can also get them designed for the street so you don't have to use the bronze gear.



[This message has been edited by mutant 68 (edited 11-12-2000).]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by mcpc:
Okay, I am going to build a 350 for my 67 Camaro from scratch. Goal is to have an honest, repeat honest, 375 horsepower distributed reasonably across a power curve of 1500 to 6500 rpm. Budget is $3,000. Assume all standard blueprinting procedures will be done. I'm looking for suggestions on combinations that really work, not just ones that sound good. Car is driven on the street on nice days only. Suspension has been rebuilt and rear can take the power. Block is in good shape and I'm planning to go .030 over. It's a two bolt but that shouldn't be a problem for this power level.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by 80 350/425:
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> If you dont want to go with the 383 i would go with a performer rpm cam, lifters,intake.It's in the 1500-6500 rpm range.10:1 pistons,1 5/8 headers,roller rockers,pete jackson gear drive and a holley 650 double pumper.I also have world sportsman II heads w/ 2.02 in 1.60 ex valves.I have this setup and it just pure amazes me when I get on it!Really hits hard and my torque numbers were 432 ft/lbs.That's killer in a small block.As far as street this setup will give your friends a run for their money if you line em'up!