May 31st, 00, 02:22 AM
Just installed a set of DynoMax headers in my small block powered '69. Now there is no room to retain the clutch fork return spring to it's original position because of the header. The original design uses a 12" or so piece of steel rod which fits into a hole in the motor mount bracket. The spring is attached to the rod and runs to the fork. Can anyone share their experiences with a similar set up and how they overcame this pitfall? I'm thinking of using a Chevelle spring which is a little longer. I'll drill a small hole below the steering box in the subframe to retain the spring. Does anyone have a better way???
Thanks in advance!
May 31st, 00, 04:03 AM
Glenn, I had some trouble with my clutch fork to return spring rod and headers, too. Luckily, one of the rods I collected (I think it was the original one from the 6 cyl) has a bend in just the right place to stay clear of the Hedman header tube that was in the way with the rod from the small block donor car. Before I found that, though, I went through the following exercise: check the portion of the rod that currently interferes. Mock up a model with a hangar. Cut the hangar 1.5" longer than the end-to-end length of the rod, so you'll be able to bend it 90 degrees away from the header tube for 3/4", then back to the original line when the interfering section is past. Check the travel of the linkage with your model. The first time I did it, I bent it the wrong way and the bend hooked on another tube. The part I didn't figure out (because I found the other rod that fit) was what material was more rigid than the hangar, but could be heated and bent to the right shape. Hope this helps. Steve Laabs
May 31st, 00, 05:15 AM
I wish I could remember who on this site gave me this tidbit, but the suggestion was to mount a hose clamp on the header tube in such a way that the spring or a short version of the spring extension can clip onto the screw head of the clamp. Works perfect.
Click here to see see my car and hear 5-speeds. http://www.geocities.com/casanoc
May 31st, 00, 07:20 AM
I believe Gheatly gets the credit for the hose clamp trick. It sounds slick but I haven't tried it yet. I just bent the extension rod a bit and slid it in between the pipes and hooked it up to the stock location. It seems to work fine (it doesn't move it just sits there) so I haven't had a good reason to go the clamp route yet.
'69 400SB, Richmond 5-speed; '99 HD Road King Classic
May 31st, 00, 09:06 AM
Thanks for all the replies......keep 'em coming!!! I'm planning on finishing the header install job tonight and I'll post back what I decide to do. It seems to me that I could probably "tweak" the stock rod and make it fit. I just want to be sure it's not going to rub on my pretty new JetHot'ed headers! If memory serves me right, my '68 Chevelle has a small slot in the frame for the spring to "grab" on to. However, the frame in that location (on an A-body) tapers/narrows back in. That way, the spring has a "straight shot" between the frame and release fork.
May 31st, 00, 12:34 PM
I bolted a 3" piece of aluminum bar stock to the motor mount bolt to create an extention to clear the headers.
Jun 2nd, 00, 02:06 AM
I ended up getting a 2" x 1" piece of 10 gauge steel and hammered & anviled it to a 45 degree angle in the middle. Drilled a 1/4" hole to mount it on the subframe and a 1/8" hole on the other end for the spring. There was an "abandon" tapped hole on the subframe directly below the clip that secures the rear brake line from the proportioning valve. Secured the clip with a fresh 1/4-20 bolt and lock washer. Used a new spring for a 68-72 Chevelle and it works! Clears the header perfectly.
Thanks again for all the ideas!!!