Well I have eveything for the 383 exept the cam, and I am in a world of mass confusion. I want to go either Comp or Lunati roller, but cant find any grinds I like. Can someone point me in the right direction? Here is a list of what I have.

780 Holley
Victor Jr. intake
220 AFR,s 76 cc
1 7/8 headders
SRP forged pistons 11.0 to 1 w/76cc
Total Seal rings
Manley H beam rods 5.7"
Scat crank
Moroso widage tray

My Camaro only sees about 1500 miles a year so driveability is a issue, and it will have a 700R4, 2800 rpm stall and 4.11 gears.

Any advice?

HR288 is a really good cam I have used in my present engine it has great across the board power but the idle is just a raspy for every day use the 280 would be milder and better idle.
We developed 537 RWH out of a 496 with that cam last month.
Just remember HR lifters need to be rebuilt at the factory every two years or failure can occur!
and a solid cam will give you at least a 30 hp gain right off the bat!
Good luck...
John

What does the car weigh? What is your stall speed? Frankly, it sounds like you might have to rev the motor to get the most out of the 220 heads you have and that will have an effect on the cam you sellect. That, in turn, will have an effect on the low speed diivability. If you can borrow a set of 195 or 200 heads just to try for a day or so, I think your motor might respond better. Just my opinion.

Yes, the heads are pretty big for a driver, BUT there a few around here that have made heads with large intake runners work by using a small cam. 67RS502 is one of them.

I would look at a HR cam with duration @ .050 at about 236*I/240*E on a 110* (or even 112*) LSA with as much lift as you can get. Use 1.6 rockers if you can since the high lift flow numbers on those heads are very good.

You may also want to consider a rev kit if you want to use a hydraulic roller. the HR lifters are heavy and need a lot of spring pressure to control them above 6000 RPM --- unfortunately since they are hydraulic there are limits on spring pressure before the lifters collapse, so a rev is kit is the only way I know to get the lifter control you need. IMO 6000 R's is about tops with a HR cam, maybe 6500 R's with a rev kit. I'm sure there are exceptions, but none that I am aware of.

PS. The 1-7/8" headers are also very big --- I'd look at a 1-3/4" set if its not too late. The large tubes will kill what little low end TQ you have left after them big ole heads ;)

Originally posted by John Ward:
Just remember HR lifters need to be rebuilt at the factory every two years or failure can occur!
and a solid cam will give you at least a 30 hp gain right off the bat!
Good luck...
John Hydraulic rollers need to be rebuilt every 2 years? Since just about every car built today has hydraulic rollers, those little roller repairmen must be pretty busy....

Joe Sherman used a HR cam in his 600 hp small block that won the Enginemasters, about 234°/234° as I recall. Think he'd make 630 with a solid cam?

I have had some people tell me not to think about a roller cam, but that is all the OE guys use anymore and they are reliable. But on the other had is a extra 80hp worth $800?

Hey if you dont like the mainstream cams, look at Erson, Doug Herbert has awesome prices on there rollers, A buddy runs one of there cams in his 383, first pass was a 10.98 in a mid 80's buick regal and it had alot more in it but detonation killed him. Id say hey you have big compression, big heads, who wants a small cam to match?? If you only drive it 1,500 miles or so a year it shouldnt bee too big of a deal to run a big cam. The only problem i see is your stall. I dont know squat about stall converters but i do know it isnt going to work well with any cam thats going to get the most out of your heads and compression.

Let's not confuse SOLID rollers with HYDRAULIC rollers ;) The solids have a reputation for needing rebuilds every couple years along with new springs --- although how often most likely depends on how agressive the ramps are. Hydraulic rollers should be good for a LOOOOOONG time as long as you don't float the valves and bounce those little roller dealies off cam lobes ;)

Originally posted by onovakind67:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by John Ward:
Just remember HR lifters need to be rebuilt at the factory every two years or failure can occur!
and a solid cam will give you at least a 30 hp gain right off the bat!
Good luck...
John Hydraulic rollers need to be rebuilt every 2 years? Since just about every car built today has hydraulic rollers, those little roller repairmen must be pretty busy....

Joe Sherman used a HR cam in his 600 hp small block that won the Enginemasters, about 234°/234° as I recall. Think he'd make 630 with a solid cam? </font>[/QUOTE]Well according to the tech dept at comp cams they sugested to do solids every year and hydraulics every two. The difference in a roller cam in a stock, newer vehical is they have a dedicated supply of oil as does the after market units get there lubrication from oil slinged from the cam.
Solid flat tappet is the way to go for more power

i used crower in the old days(1984!) but don't know how they're doing now,back then they had the most aggresive ramps there were!i know most of the guys here are comp fans and i am too!but crower might still be a class winner if you are willing to increase your spring seat size.i'm running a comp 274xe righi now and am considering checking lash(hydraulic=1/4-1/2 turn in from the exact point of valve clatter)but i swear the old crower pattern was way more powerful!(228/232@.050 .479/.481 lift,don't remember the c/l
as always Good Luck!
Eric