I have a cam that will stall the car when I put it in gear.

Engine seems to idle fine while not in gear at 950-1000 or so after much tuning. In gear it drops to 500-600 and the engine stalls.

What tork converter do I need to loosen this up? Tranny is a turbo 350 on a 1967 327. I would like it to continue to spin freely when I drop it in gear.

Once running, the whole setup runs fine.

how big is cam?i run a 268 cam with a 2200 stall it works good.not to big where you have to wind up to get moving.it does free wheel thoe when off the gas in town

That is the magic question. I have not torn it down and really am not capable of doing it. I do know the valves all measured 25000". Roller rockers. solid lifters.

First off..I would ensure that the mechanical advance in the distributor is not activating at 900 rpm in Park.If so..your initial timing will read correct but be exagerated.Dump the car in gear,rpms reduce and the weights retract and pull out initial timing readings on your tab.Heavier advance springs would be a cheap and easy test to perform.
With a heavily cammed engine..you typically require a ton of initial (18*)and limited mechanical for a total of say 36*.
Also to offset intake dilution/reversion with radical cam,you typically have to back out the idle mixture screws a tad bit more than you settled on.
Try this first..before yanking the trans for a converter swap.

Depending on the use of this car or cam, sometimes you can get away with something under 2000 stall , IF you are able to re-degree the cam to an advanced position.

Really need to know more about the cam and current convertor, sounds like stock.

I had the same problem whe I had a stock converter and had to shift into neutral or feather the throttle to keep the car runnig -- once I switched to a 3000 stall, I haven't had a problem with the idle while the the car was in gear