I am having trouble with the clutch fork hitting the firewall and the passenger header is hitting the floor pan.

I have a 67 with a 350 block Gen 1 (1995 - 2000) with Dart Pro 1 heads connected to Doug Thorely Tri-Y Headers (THY-376Y1-C). The engine is mounted to Energy Suspension 31114G (short and wide) motor mounts and I measured the frame brackets which are correct according to (http://pozziracing.com/camaro_engine.htm). The engine is connected to a Lakewood shattershield using the block saver plate. I have a Centerforce II clutch kit with a Centerforce (CFT 361675) pressure plate, Centerforce (383271) disc, and a CAT flywheel. I’m using a Centerforce (N1716) throwout bearing with a GM (389632) stock clutch fork. I used the GM (3729000) short 1.48” clutch pivot ball. The Lakewood shattershield is connected to a M21 which is connected to the original crossmemeber using an Energy Suspension (31108G) trans mount.

The distributor seems to be the correct distance from the firewall as I can almost put my hand between to two. The trans is tucked VERY high but I can get may hand around the trans inside the tunnel. I had the trans supported by a jackstand prior to installing the crossmember; the clutch fork geometry and the headers were looking real good. Once I installed the trans mount and crossmember, I was surprised how everything is off now.

I think the Lakewood adjustable pivot ball may solve my clutch fork geometry, but I am not sure what to do about the headers. The trans mount that came with the car was 1.75”. The new Energy Suspension mount is 2”???

Has anyone had this problem? Will ¼” shorter trans mount solve my header problem? You would think the Energy Suspenion mount would work. Does anyone know what height to set the pivot ball since I didn’t want to take the aligned shatter shield off? What is the distance between the throwout bearing and the clutch diaphragm fingers?

Sorry for all the questions. I am pulling my hair out!:confused:

Thanks.

When this happen to me it was from the wrong fork, the fork was to long if i remember correctly and it was a lake wood fork. Went with the stock fork and all is good now.

As stated above, it is the GM stock clutch fork. Thanks.

Sorry about that. Yes the lakewood pivot ball should give more adjustment, but one more thing to check is the Z-bar just make sure its not a 2nd gen Z-bar.

How are your body mounts ?

delete

Need the Mr Gasket or the like , adjustable pivot ball, thats 4.750" from the rear block face, then minus thickness of your block saver. Yes, Use the GM fork for this model, Not the HD model. Been there , done that even with those headers.

We always use the McLeod pivotball with any blow-proof bellhousing. Here is a picture and it is available at Summitt Racing for the best price: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MCL-16908/

You can also try the Napa: BK 6201030 1-1/2" tall transmission mount for your header/clutch fork issues.

Read this thread and then go get the correct pivot ball and clutch fork. That problem will be solved.
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=70094&highlight=clutch+fork
I am not sure about the header problem, perhaps someone else can jump in to help.

I'm using new original rubber type body mounts.

Jody, thanks for jumping in. I have the engine in the car with the everything bolted up. I know will need to drop the trans to change the pivot ball, but I was hoping I would not need to remove the aligned shatter sheild. Can I get my flywheel measurements w/out removing the shatter sheild? I was thinking I could do the math backwards and just measure the height of the pivot ball. I think the 1.5" trans mount will fix the header problem. Thanks for the info!

Below is a link to a pic of my clutch:

http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu26/bvelek/clutchpic.jpg

So, my plan is to use the following parts:

*GM (389632) stock clutch fork that I already have
*McLeod (16908) adjustable pivot ball stud
*Centerforce (CFT 361675) pressure plate
*Centerforce (383271) disc
*CAT flywheel
*Centerforce (N1716) throwout bearing
*Lakewood (15000) blowproof bellhousing with the block saver plate.

I HATE doing thinks twice, I'm trying to get it right this time. Does anyone see any issues with this combo. Is the throwout bearing correct? Thanks again!

You can use this pivotball set-up .pdf file from CC5S. This will also get you the same results without removing your bellhousing.

This is perfect! I found the 1.5" trans mount at NAPA yesterday and adjustable pivot ball should arrive tomorrow. I will be under the car on Sat. Again, thanks for your help!!!

Man, this trans mount (NAPA: BK 6201030 1-1/2") looks WEAK compared to the the original and the Energy Suspension mount. One of the applications shows it was used in the 1969 Camaro 427, but I'm afraid I'm going to break it. My sbc 408 makes 507hp and 530ft,lbs of torque. Take a look at this pic:

http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu26/bvelek/IMG00056.jpg

<a href="http://s630.photobucket.com/albums/uu26/bvelek/?action=view&current=IMG00056.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu26/bvelek/IMG00056.jpg" border="0" alt="Trans Mount 1.5&amp;quot; (1969 427)"></a>

Thoughts???

If it shows up in a book, that doesn't mean they used that mount. It means their mount will FIT in that car. This is the case for GM parts too !

You may want to add some big washers to your body mounts. This will essentially give you more space between your headers and your floor.

Man, this trans mount (NAPA: BK 6201030 1-1/2") looks WEAK compared to the the original and the Energy Suspension mount. One of the applications shows it was used in the 1969 Camaro 427, but I'm afraid I'm going to break it. My sbc 408 makes 507hp and 530ft,lbs of torque. Take a look at this pic:

http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu26/bvelek/IMG00056.jpg

<a href="http://s630.photobucket.com/albums/uu26/bvelek/?action=view&current=IMG00056.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu26/bvelek/IMG00056.jpg" border="0" alt="Trans Mount 1.5&amp;quot; (1969 427)"></a>

Thoughts???

I don't know the origin of this mount but, your engine mounts will be the control factor with your engine specs.

At least you can install this mount to see if it will eliminate your header problem. Then decide if you want to use it.

Man, this trans mount (NAPA: BK 6201030 1-1/2") looks WEAK compared to the the original and the Energy Suspension mount. One of the applications shows it was used in the 1969 Camaro 427, but I'm afraid I'm going to break it. My sbc 408 makes 507hp and 530ft,lbs of torque. Take a look at this pic:

http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu26/bvelek/IMG00056.jpg

<a href="http://s630.photobucket.com/albums/uu26/bvelek/?action=view&current=IMG00056.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu26/bvelek/IMG00056.jpg" border="0" alt="Trans Mount 1.5&amp;quot; (1969 427)"></a>

Thoughts???

had the same issue with the passenger header hitting floor pan (have new body mounts and new factory motor mounts) was using the ES trans mount pulled it and replaced with one like the one you show here and i now have about 1/8- 3/16 clearance from flange to floor board and my 4 speed shifter boot fits properly as well!!
dont forget the drivers side is the side of the engine that will want to lift as the pass. side should drop on heavy accel.!! So as long as it isnt rubbing and hitting my floor im using the mount you showed here and running a 425 hp sb

This is what I was talking about in my question on frame mounts , since the only 67 that came with a 350 was the ss model , you have 327 FRAME mounts and they did the same thing to me with the clutch and headers when I installed a 350 , buy 69 350-302 frame mounts and I will bet all problems will be solved , Pain in the butt to change um , but the solution is cheap enough.