Curious to know what type of starter are you guys running on your 1st gens ? Also do you have problems with overheating and do you use shields. Any pics would be extremely helpful. I am replacing mines this weekend due to overheating is what i believe, or it could just have been old. I am replacing it with the same big starter that it had on but i thought maybe you guys know of a way to put it where it does not overheat or something ? Let me know what you guys have done. I had a skylark and firebird with same overheating problem and i want to correct it this time with the Camaro. Thanks

My car was driving fine and then it just won't start any more. I think it might be the starter because there is electricity but when i turn the key nothing happens. I had the engine replaced and had some electrical done not more then a month ago but now it seems it might be the starter ? The new engine did not come with a new one.

I am running my original starter and haven't had any over heating problems. I have the stock exhaust manifolds and no heat shield. Last year I had my starter rebuilt with a high torque armature and field.

Roger

Starter solenoid heat soak from exhaust heat is a common small block issue when headers are used. The headers, depending on how they are bent, are usually a lot closer than an OE manifold and exhaust head pipe, which runs farther away.

Heat shields are cheap and easy to install. I like to use the Mr. Gasket piece linked below, because is has a layer of insulation sandwiched between the metal shield halves.

Amazon.com: Mr. Gasket 3678 Starter Motor Heat Shield: Automotive

There are starter blankets and heat shields that are just a piece of metal.

You can also use a remote mount solenoid like Fords use, but that is slightly more involved.

Did the starter work again after the car cooled down? If so, you may just want to get and install the heat shield and try it before replacing the starter you have now.

Heat Soak of the starter has been a bain of GM cars for many years - I fought it back in the 60's ...

There are several 'tried & true' fixes;
1.) provide a new single wire full 12vdc feed from the switch "start" terminal to the "S" terminal on the solenoid - this will bypass all the orginal wiring connections and teminals that tend to build up resistance over years of use.
2.) install a new external solenoid (like those used on 'Furds") with new large gauge feeds from the Bat. - through the new solenoid - to the main terminal on the starter (with a jumper to the 'S' terninal to pull-in the solenoid) that routes 12vdc from the battery directly to the starter.

Both of these involve rewiring the original system to some extent, but they will both address 80%+ of the 'hot-start' issues you will run into.

(edit) - others type much faster than me :o

Starter solenoid heat soak from exhaust heat is a common small block issue when headers are used. The headers, depending on how they are bent, are usually a lot closer than an OE manifold and exhaust head pipe, which runs farther away.

Heat shields are cheap and easy to install. I like to use the Mr. Gasket piece linked below, because is has a layer of insulation sandwiched between the metal shield halves.

http://rover.ebay.com/ar/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?mpt=642648895&adtype=1&size=1x1&type=3&campid=5336121784&toolid=10001 Amazon.com: Mr. Gasket 3678 Starter Motor Heat Shield: Automotive (http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?ie=UTF8&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FMr-Gasket-3678-Starter-Shield%2Fdp%2FB000CMF0OW&tag=5336121784-20&linkCode=ur2&camp=1789&creative=9325)

There are starter blankets and heat shields that are just a piece of metal.

You can also use a remote mount solenoid like Fords use, but that is slightly more involved.

Did the starter work again after the car cooled down? If so, you may just want to get and install the heat shield and try it before replacing the starter you have now.
Unfortunately it did not start back up. When i put in the key the lights turn on and radio on but when i turn the ignition, nothing, no sound or anything ? Not sure what it is. My guess was automatically the starter because the shop where i put in the engine told me it might cause problems and to replace it but i didn't, but now i am. I purchased a new one from autozone and now will purchase a heat shield before installing. I don't have headers but i have the old exhause pipes coming right over the cylinoid and i believe it burned it ? If i put on a new starter and it don't start then i guess i have to take it back to the shop. Back to the shop because i just got my rewiring done by them from the guages to the headlights for $700 and they said they guarantee it.
ps. Yes i just purchased the exact item !
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370251831060&category=33576&_trksid=p2773.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSI%26itu%3DUCI%252BRTQ%26otn%3D15 %26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D54

If the starer does "nothing", You should really have the circuit checked at the solenoid to see if power is present while the ignition is in the crank position before replacing it.

If it was strictly a heat soak issue, it would work again as soon as it cooled off. More likely there is just a bad spot(s) on the winding. The classic roadside fix for this problem is to apply a few hammer whacks to move the starer off the bad spot, and then it works again.

regardless, a heat shield on a SBC with headers is a good idea.

My local Autozone will test starters and alternators for free.

I use the Powermaster 9500 on my big block ..
Works great
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/pwm-9500.jpg

I have run a Powermaster on my BB Camaro for years with good luck.Hatachi type. I rotate the solenoid 180* so it is below the starter motor,well away from any heat from headers.

Another plus for Thorley Tri-Ys. I have no issue in the hot climate of the San Joaquin Valley, California. I may have no issue also because my car does not run hot or have air conditioning. A quality rebuilt starter may be the answer too.

PowerMaster XS is my favorite too

i have the same problem. when my starter(autozone special) gets warm and i shut it off, it either cranks very slow or it wont crank at all. except mine will start up once it cools. i plan on getting a "mini starter" this winter. thinking about going with the summit mini starter. use the search function for "mini starter" and you should come up with some good threads.

PMGR Delco mini from DB Electrical for $55-$65 depending on flywheel.


http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3564/3685073581_8478e7719b.jpg

Steiner,
What are the disadvantages of the PMGR?...that's not much money for a starter. Why do the seem to be listed as "racing" starters?...can they be used for a daily driver?

Jim

I've been using one of these low budget starters on my 383 since 2007 without it skipping a beat. The guys at this site claim this starter is GM oem re-boxed for retail sales. It is a perm magnet starter so no wire coils to heat soak...

http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=30&catid=47&ret=catalog.php%3Fcategory%3D47

Steiner,
What are the disadvantages of the PMGR?...that's not much money for a starter. Why do the seem to be listed as "racing" starters?...can they be used for a daily driver?

Jim


Disadvantages? None I would think unless you dropped it and broke a magnet. DB offers a one year no questions asked warranty. One third the weight of stock, more starting torque, half the current draw, less heat, Delco unit, etc. I did have to cut a small flange off the face of mine as there was something on the flywheel contacting it. They still said they'd honor the warranty.

They may refer to them as "racing" models in some cases because they're capable of starting an 18:1 compression motor.

Here's an article on one. It's from a Mustang site. Sorry.

http://mustangfords.automotive.com/94761/mdmp-0811-pmgr-starter-upgrade/index.html

I like my Tilton...
http://www.hrpworld.com/client_images/ecommerce/client_39/products/4120_1.jpg

Dennis,
Thanks for the link. Appears to be the same unit...it's a PMGR (Permanent Magnet, Gear Reduction) unit.
Think that's what I'll use.
Anyone seen one in stainless? :) :)

Jim

Have to watch out, some of those replacment starters have plastic bushings instead of steel and wear quickly. This is a ask me how I know scenario! The cheaper they are in price, the cheaper they are in reality.

Mid 90's GM/Chevy Suburban/Yukon used the Hitachi style 4:1 reduction 'mini-starter'.
These are for the 168-tooth (large) flywheel/flexplate w-staggered bolt pattern.
I use one on my 1996 LT-1 in my ski-boat :thumbsup:

AutoZone, NAPA and I would imagine all the other discount parts outlets carry them in stock at prices in line with the link DjD posted.

I can give you guys my sailboat anchor winch experience. I bought a small permanent magnet windlass. Max draw is 25 amps. It pulls up anchor chain so fast that the chain is a blur. It has power enough to pull my bow down about a foot if the anchor hangs up. (34') All for 25 amps. Most stereos use more!
http://epitomesrebuild.com/images/63.JPG

I was having the an issue with my starter heating up, so I switched to a GM Performance Parts Mini-High Torque starter, then just to be sure, Ialso switched flexplates to the smaller diameter one to move the starter away from the headers a little bit farther. Works great now.

I took some advise from some folks here and started to check my electrical here first. And what do you know a blown fuse, bad ground and low batter was the cause. All though i really like some of these starters in here, i think the mini starter was my choice for when i get headers. Now i have a shield to sell. Anyone insterested let me know.