Battery Drain....why??? [Archive] - Team Camaro Tech

: Battery Drain....why???


canX11
Sep 10th, 09, 04:23 PM
I installed a new battery (twice)....new Alt. and regulator (69 Camaro)....and still after a few days....my battery goes dead.....this is the second battery i just killed.....doubt they will give me a second one on the warranty....what could be the cause....I'm lost when it comes to eletrical...even on these simple set-ups as the first gens. The car was in dry storage for 8 years prior to this summer....grounds maybe need a cleanin? Thanks in advance.

DHH
Sep 10th, 09, 04:45 PM
Something is drawing current. I had it happen to me because the glovebox door was not adjusted correctly and did not close all of the way leaving the light in the box on. Easy to see at night, not so in the day. Otherwise you could pull fuses one at a time until the drain stops and then at least you'd have an idea of what to start looking at.

JimM
Sep 10th, 09, 05:21 PM
You need to get a test light. Disconnect the negative battery cable, and connect one lead on the test light to the neg battery terminal, and the other to the loose end of the cable.

If you have a draw, the light will glow. It may be pretty dim, maybe do this in the dark.

Start disconnecting stuff untill the light goes out.

First thing would be the 2 wire plug on the alternator.

canX11
Sep 11th, 09, 06:47 AM
You need to get a test light. Disconnect the negative battery cable, and connect one lead on the test light to the neg battery terminal, and the other to the loose end of the cable.

If you have a draw, the light will glow. It may be pretty dim, maybe do this in the dark.

Start disconnecting stuff untill the light goes out.

First thing would be the 2 wire plug on the alternator.

Thanks Jim!:hurray:

click
Sep 11th, 09, 07:53 AM
the 12v test light is the best way to find those gremlin drainage issues. I found my direct short and have since used that light on many projects to make sure there was nothing left on when I was done fixing something. A sort of double check.
:thumbsup:

Steptoe
Sep 11th, 09, 03:22 PM
Maybe an easier way to disconnect stuff, or locate on a 'short list' is pull the fuses 1 by one.
Stock radio or modern after market?....thats always a good place to start..

canX11
Sep 12th, 09, 03:06 PM
Update.....I re-installed the battery (thankfully--it recharged), hooked it up and fired up the car and checked to see if the new Alt. was charging the battery....not so good....I then noticed that the Horn relay (the part below my new Voltage Reg.) was hot to the touch....could this be my problem....I have not tried the light test yet but i am guessing that this relay needs a good cleaning or? Your thoughts?

Sauron67MM
Sep 12th, 09, 03:17 PM
Did you try Jim's suggestion? Have you checked to see what the system is charging using a meter; at the battery and the alternator? And if so what are the results? Have you cleaned all the connections at the horn relay, VR and that pesky junction block behind the battery? 8 years in storage and connection corrosion will fester.

69 Bowtie
Sep 12th, 09, 03:41 PM
Do what Jim said, you'll find it. Best test I've found so far.It's quick and cheap to do, don't even have to get your hands dirty!

Brandan
Sep 12th, 09, 08:50 PM
From what I can remember on the '67 the horn relay is actually also a bus bar and is always hot. not sure about '69

Steptoe
Sep 12th, 09, 10:36 PM
(thankfully--it recharged),
A side note..many battery charges will not charge if the battary is under about 8 or 9 V
It assumes the battery is dead....(check cells with a hydrometer)
To recharge a very low battary with one of these charges, put another battery in parrell, hoo up the charger, it will see 111 or 12v and start charging...after 3 or 4 mins remove the charged battery and the flat one will keep charging.
EVEN a dud battery will charge right up, it just will not hold the charge for long.

markw
Sep 13th, 09, 08:34 AM
Horn relay is probably energized due to a bad horn button. It should not be hot. Try disconnecting the small black wire from the bottom of the relay. http://www.camaros.net/techref/electrical/What_it_is/horn_relay.htm If theres a short you'll hear the relay click when you hook it back up.

dnult
Sep 13th, 09, 06:09 PM
...after 3 or 4 mins remove the charged battery and the flat one will keep charging...

Not much to add to several already good responses, other than this. Be certain that sparks are never present around a battery - especially a discharged one. You've probably heard advice about which battery to connect first and where to hook your ground when jump starting. It all boils down to keeping the sparks away from the Hydrogen or Oxygen that is release when a battery charges / discharges. Steptoe has a good suggestion for fooling a smart charger into charging a severely discharged battery. I'd just add a power cycle step to keep the sparks at bay when removing the paralell battery.

:beers:

Brandan
Sep 13th, 09, 08:34 PM
From what I can remember on the '67 the horn relay is actually also a bus bar and is always hot. not sure about '69

I guess I should have said that you can run power off the horn relay. That in fact it not only powers the horn but other circuits as well. (a/c, power windows, power top, etc..) With the proper ground maybe it could be "hot":D

JimM
Sep 13th, 09, 08:39 PM
Horn relay is probably energized due to a bad horn button. It should not be hot. Try disconnecting the small black wire from the bottom of the relay. http://www.camaros.net/techref/electrical/What_it_is/horn_relay.htm If theres a short you'll hear the relay click when you hook it back up.

I like this one.

Does your horn work?
If it does then nevermind.

The horn relay would only be warm to touch if it is energized and has been for quite some time. Even with the horns disconnected, the relay would draw enough to take the battery down pretty quickly.

Disconecting the black wire would eliminate the dead battery until you fix the horn.

canX11
Sep 14th, 09, 06:46 AM
I like this one.

Does your horn work?
If it does then nevermind.

The horn relay would only be warm to touch if it is energized and has been for quite some time. Even with the horns disconnected, the relay would draw enough to take the battery down pretty quickly.

Disconecting the black wire would eliminate the dead battery until you fix the horn.

Thanks....you guys are awesome!! I'm begining to comprehend the mystery of electrical stuff:hurray: I do have my horns disconnected and they are not wired at the steering wheel......but, the black lead was still plugged in at the relay....I have the Horn relay out for a good cleaning.....a lot of surface rust from storage and age....once I install it (w/ the horn disconnected) I will do the light test and see where it takes me.....I have a feeling the corrosion surrounding this relay might be the culprit....I dont have anything else hooked up to this car....radio is disconnected (aftermarket) and no lighting group other than the interior dome light which works fine when closing or oppening the door....the other only thing is an electric fan which has been acting up....it goes on and off sporadically.....this could be the problem as well....again thanks for all your help....I will update....its just so annoying and now that I'm older...I used to love these challenges in my younger days....I just wnat to get in the car ...turn the key and go!:D