When my car is cold it starts fine. Noticed occationally after running the engine to operating temp and shutting off, it won't start.

Turn key, normal gen and oil lights go on , but nothing, no starter click, won't turn over. All accessories work, lights work, etc. I noticed when turning key and nothing happening, ammeter gauge goes all the way down to -40 (console car).

Waited an hour or so, car cooled down, and started right up.

Thinking starter or starter solenoid? Starts fine otherwise....checked all connections on staerter, battery, junction block and voltage regulator- all OK.

Ideas? Voltage 13.2 across battery; 14.3 off alternator when running. What am I missing?

Thanks much
Tom

Starter may be heat soaked.

Or too small of cabling. Measure battery voltage across posts when starting, should not be less than 9.5 volts, otherwise, bad battery or not being charged enough or long enough time for the recharge.

Also, measure cable loss; go from battery post to solenoid post and return cable the same, post to engine block. Both measurements should be less than 0.5 volts. You might move the return cable from alt bracket to engine block if OE design.

Hopefully, the front starter brace is still attached as without it, the return path is through the starter nose and it being made of alum, not a good conductor as iron/steel.

JMT's.

Sidenote: The starter brace Everett mentions is vital to the support of the starter. Often left out by those thinking it's a decorative piece of hardware.

Sidenote: The starter brace Everett mentions is vital to the support of the starter. Often left out by those thinking it's a decorative piece of hardware.


I DO NOT HAVE THE SUPPORT BRACE! Guess I will start with that.
Thanks!

Or too small of cabling. Measure battery voltage across posts when starting, should not be less than 9.5 volts, otherwise, bad battery or not being charged enough or long enough time for the recharge.

Also, measure cable loss; go from battery post to solenoid post and return cable the same, post to engine block. Both measurements should be less than 0.5 volts. You might move the return cable from alt bracket to engine block if OE design.



Hopefully, the front starter brace is still attached as without it, the return path is through the starter nose and it being made of alum, not a good conductor as iron/steel.

JMT's.


Thanks Everett. No starter brace, so I guess I'll start there. I'll also take those measurements. FYI, new engine harness was installed along with battery cables during my resto. Have numerous electrical gremlins which were all resolved; or at least I thought :)

During my troubleshooting of previous problems, I spend about 6 hours going from the rear of the chassis to the engine bay, removing and verifying all grounds.

What do you think about the starter overheating? Starts everytime when cold. After driving for 30-45 minutes, this sometimes happens....

You're welcome. I was suggesting for other avenues to look as the starter itself may be overheating/heat soak.

A quick check when heat soaked is the use a screwdriver, or remote starter switch, and short between the battery cable and the 'S' termenal of the solenoid to see if it does crank. If no crank, then heat soak. If crank, then power supply problem.

Also, check you batt cables for heat while you try to start it. Hot cables meant a poor conductor.

You're welcome. I was suggesting for other avenues to look as the starter itself may be overheating/heat soak.

A quick check when heat soaked is the use a screwdriver, or remote starter switch, and short between the battery cable and the 'S' termenal of the solenoid to see if it does crank. If no crank, then heat soak. If crank, then power supply problem.


Again, thanks Everett! I have a remote start switch, so I'll try that! Never thought of that :boring:

Ah, the joy of it all
:hurray:

Was having the same symptoms. New solenoid and a new bushing (old one was pretty reamed out) solved the problem. I did take it to a guy who does this and he said you need to make sure you have the right solenoid.

alan

After buying a reman starter and alternator and both took early retirement I took them to a local rebuild tech and got them done right. I will always have them done that way and keep xtras for that purpose. Some companies leave the used bearings and brushes in the shiny new cases. Just enough to get by. The cost of them replacing a few within the warranty is outweighed by the ones they make a profit on.

Thanks for all the input guys! Drove last night for quite awhile and the car started every time. I'll keep an eye on it and report back. The good news is I get to drive it these days, not just work on it...I just don't go too far from home!