deck lid spoiler

Is there anything, such as a gasket, that gets mounted between the spoiler and the rear deck lid? Thanks in advance for your time and info.

I don't think so but a dab of something to make the holes water tight would be a good idea I would think. O-rings or flat sealing gaskets?

alan

Many thanks.

Yes it is available. I found mine on ebay a few years back. They were only $10 shipped for the set of rubber washers and steel washers. A rubber washer and a steel washer goes on each side of the trunk lid to seal the hole. I plan on using clear silicone around each stud as well though.

Go to this link to see one of them I just found:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CAMARO-FIREBIRD-SPOILER-WATERPROOFING-WASHERS-1967-69_W0QQitemZ300348010192QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20090 915?IMSfp=TL090915147002r11266

The washers with the rubber inside can be bought at Lowes Home Improvement Store.

Just put a thin dab of dum dum putty around the studs, nothing fancy needed.

ditto on the dum-dum

I have a place around me called Paramont Plastics that has all sorts of rubber.I put 1/8" thick rubber washers between the decl lid and the spoiler.Just my $.02.....

I hate to change the thread but does anyone know who makes replacement studs for the spoilers?

I hate to change the thread but does anyone know who makes replacement studs for the spoilers?

http://www.firewheelclassics.com/store/item.asp?Category=&SubCategoryID=&GroupID=&SKU=SPO%2D186

can you say all thread

Might be overkill, and is rather permanent, but I use some of the 3M marine sealant on the underside of mine, 5200 will never leak. Comes in black or white I believe.

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Marine/Home/Products/Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECIE20S4K7_nid=833P6DHCV6gsQ H8HT14PGTgl503JG3DNJDbl

-shoe

I hate to change the thread but does anyone know who makes replacement studs for the spoilers?

http://www.firewheelclassics.com/store/item.asp?Category=&SubCategoryID=&GroupID=&SKU=SPO%2D186


D&R, AMK, other vendors also. However if your only missing one or two and strict conformity to origional appearance is not important
"hanger bolts" are available at the hardware store. Sold individually and no need to spend $20 plus shipping for a single stud or two that are missing. They will not have an integral washer and are available in 1/4-20 x various lengths, sheetmetal threaded on opposite side.

D&R, AMK, other vendors also. However if your only missing one or two and strict conformity to origional appearance is not important
"hanger bolts" are available at the hardware store. Sold individually and no need to spend $20 plus shipping for a single stud or two that are missing. They will not have an integral washer and are available in 1/4-20 x various lengths, sheetmetal threaded on opposite side.

If you are talking about the bolts that are 1/4-20 on one end, and a wood screw on the other, all the ones I found had 1/4-20 lengths way too long, so they would need to be cut. Since half the bolt ends are visible (other half are under cap nuts) I wanted the ends to look correct, not cut off. Also, the other end was too long, and would need to cut off too, to avoid breaking through the spoiler.

I think using cut off bolts is a better solution, since the ends look factory. If the bolt holes are damaged, I'd make a reverse conical hole, using a ball grinder on a dremmell, or similar bit, and epoxy the bolts in. Remove the bolts when the epoxy is not quite fully set, and you can then thread them back in.

That's what I was planning to do, but after looking at mine closer, the threads were in good condition, so I just used the cut off bolts.

Those rubber/steel washer probably does a good job of sealing the holes, but that will not give you a factory look. Dum-dum will do the trick.

If you are talking about the bolts that are 1/4-20 on one end, and a wood screw on the other, all the ones I found had 1/4-20 lengths way too long, so they would need to be cut. Since half the bolt ends are visible (other half are under cap nuts) I wanted the ends to look correct, not cut off. Also, the other end was too long, and would need to cut off too, to avoid breaking through the spoiler.

I think using cut off bolts is a better solution, since the ends look factory. If the bolt holes are damaged, I'd make a reverse conical hole, using a ball grinder on a dremmell, or similar bit, and epoxy the bolts in. Remove the bolts when the epoxy is not quite fully set, and you can then thread them back in.

That's what I was planning to do, but after looking at mine closer, the threads were in good condition, so I just used the cut off bolts.

Those rubber/steel washer probably does a good job of sealing the holes, but that will not give you a factory look. Dum-dum will do the trick.

I know what they all look like origionally. I also prefer 3M Rigid Parts Repair to epoxy. Most people don't even know what that is. 25 years in collision repair exposed me to products available of which some hobbiests may not be aware. (Hanger bolts not included. Just threw that on the table for others). And I agree that a cut off bolt of any kind would not be appropriate and look hacked. Hanger bolts are available in a wide variety of lengths as I use them when making custom furniture.

More info on spoiler nuts and survivor pics are plentiful at CRG. Ram Air Dave had data posted: "Has been discussed quite a bit, and it seems as though the change from the keps/acorns to all keps roughly correlated with the time of the short spoiler phase/run out."

Thanks to those that responded about the spoiler studs.