: Door Shell Rust
Bowti69 Sep 18th, 09, 08:03 PM Repair or replace?
Weld in new metal - somehow? Looks like it would be a chore for sure- or
I can buy a new shell for about $300 or an OE in primer locally for about $200?
http://img183.imageshack.us/i/0918092017.jpg/
http://img16.imageshack.us/i/0918092015.jpg/
Denvervet Sep 18th, 09, 08:08 PM depends upon how good you feel about fabricating and welding. Also, whether that is all there really is do deal with. Certainly fixable and considering how flimsy new repro stuff I fixed all my doors and fenders. When in doubt cut it out and then look inside and see what you have going on inside. Good luck
67CAMAROSS Sep 18th, 09, 09:16 PM mine were worse and i welded in patches then por 15 it the use 3m panal bonding in the small holes then reskined the door http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj246/THEROCK1_photo/PICSAV014.jpg http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj246/THEROCK1_photo/Picture129.jpg http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj246/THEROCK1_photo/0716092000.jpg
Steptoe Sep 18th, 09, 09:52 PM New door with that little bit..you have to be joking....your not serious are you?
If you are not good with a mig..you will be good at fixing blow out holes...and they are not much more than that.
69z28freak Sep 19th, 09, 01:40 AM hey Donnie nice job on the car. How hard was it to swap out the cowl? Did you blast and prime yourself?
dhutton Sep 19th, 09, 06:56 AM If the local one in primer is rust free I would buy it and use it. Repop shells are a lot of work.
Don
mb302rs Sep 19th, 09, 07:39 AM The 200 for the OE shell would be well spent. If you count your time worth anything. I reworked mine for the challenge. My corners were about the same as yours and they needed new skins too. We blasted everything and gave the inside a POR 15 bath.
shoddy_F-body Sep 19th, 09, 07:41 AM Buy the one in primer if the shell is solid. You could always skin it. I found an original door that was battered but the shell was rust free. Skins are cheap and easy. Repro shells can be a nightmare.
SS427Rick Sep 19th, 09, 08:16 AM I fixed the shells on my 69 SS396 Chevelle and I will do the same on my 69 RS. I fabricated pieces where the shell was rusted out on the lower rear, blasted the inside of shell, and welded in patches. Then POR 15. Time consuming but turns out great. I have been told to stay away from repop shells. More work than fixing your originals.
Bowti69 Oct 20th, 09, 11:01 AM Any tips, pics, advice form those that have done this?
I am relatively inexperienced when it comes to fabricating - I have also limited welding experience that I have gained from replacing my floor pan, front tulip and other small patches.
I am fairly confident in my abilities regarding flat panels but need some direction for these with curves and bends
casey69z Oct 20th, 09, 12:41 PM Curves aren't that hard just take longer. Just take your time when forming them. First make a template in paper, then transfer to cardboard ( cereal box). Trace onto metal and cut it out a bit larger to allow for error. Find a form of something about the same shape to use to bend it around. For sharp bends use your vise and hammer it lightly until you get the bend. Bend a little, check it, bend some more, check it. Grind a little off the edges till it fits. It takes a little time but you can do it.
TraxUnderground Oct 20th, 09, 12:53 PM Take all the advise given to fix your doors. My "Golden Legion" "Goodmark" doors were alot of work to get the vent windows in correctly. Once done and stiffened up they are fine (so far) As with all aftermarket stuff it needs to be tweaked...heck my NOS quarters had to be tweaked too. Keep what you have and fix it if you can.
Steptoe Oct 20th, 09, 01:01 PM I use the template as above and cut to size. form to roughly the right shape
Tack to one edge, the trick is to line it up before the 2nd tack...the tap and tack around the edges for butt weld.
When it comes to welding I use a brass or copper dolly behind where welding , and feed turned right down so one is almost tigging.
Dont get too much heat into the surrounding steel.
OH chop the hole back to good steel before making the template.
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