This is probably in the wrong area (sorry mods), but I just needed to post it quick because I need an answer.

Does this frame-mount bracket look correct? Or is it backwards? If it is correct, how do you get the third hole behind the wheel well? If it's not correct and it needs to be flipped, then the holes don't line up. I guess in that case I will just drill and tap a new hole that lines up.

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/jkaufman82/Frame-mountBracket_001.jpg

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/jkaufman82/Frame-mountBracket_002.jpg

correct.... Just make sure the Z-bar from the motor to the bracket is nice and peralel...

Is your car a '67?
The bracket is for a '69 - my upper bolt hits the inner fender and is a PITA to remove.

Nothing wrong with using the bracket you have - it'll work as mounted or Ricks has a '67 bracket that will catch the 3rd bolt hole on your frame.

Cool. I mounted it how you see it in the pictures there. I drilled a through-hole of 1/4" dia. for a 5/16" tap right up near the top (about an inch and a half above and to the right of the hole you see in that pic). The slot looked pretty vertical. Now that I finally got the engine in today, I will have to mount up the linkage and install the transmission. I used 5/16" x 3/4" fine thread bolts (grade 5) along with a lock washer. We were able to get them nice and tight without any issues.

However, when I drilled the through-hole and tapped it, I didn't consider how close to the fender well the head of the bolt would be. We had to do some prying to get it out of the way while the bolt was tightened...

hey jeff, sounds like you're making progress. you're doing it the hard way, IMO, by dropping in the engine then mounting the tranny. I mated it all together while it was hanging from the hoist then dropped 'er in at one time with the crossmember already installed. not a problem at all. good luck w/ the rest of the install!

hey jeff, sounds like you're making progress. you're doing it the hard way, IMO, by dropping in the engine then mounting the tranny. I mated it all together while it was hanging from the hoist then dropped 'er in at one time with the crossmember already installed. not a problem at all. good luck w/ the rest of the install!

Indeed! Progress is being made. This may seem like the hard way, but give a look at my thread in the Transmission section about my troubles getting that m20 all the way in...

Speaking of troubles... something does not seem right unless I am just ignorant (very often the case lately! This is all new to me!). Take a look at these pictures.

See how crooked the Z bar looks?
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/jkaufman82/ClutchLinkage001a.jpg

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/jkaufman82/ClutchLinkage002a.jpg

Is the rod that pushes the clutch fork supposed to be threaded THAT far into the rod that attaches to the engine-side of the z bar?
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/jkaufman82/ClutchLinkage004a.jpg

Here's a shot that shows the frame-mounted bracket for reference. These pictures actually make it look more crooked than it really is... must have been the angle I shot the pics at...
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/jkaufman82/ClutchLinkage005a.jpg

Here's the view from above
http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww349/jkaufman82/ClutchLinkage007a.jpg

Aaron - I'm up in Ramona now. I decided to move out of Sabre Springs to save some money so I am living in my bro's guest house! :) There's a lot of flat land up here on his property - perfect for some car work!

Jeff

that is crooked. isnt there a hole on motor about 2 inches forward of where you got it mounted?

that is crooked. isnt there a hole on motor about 2 inches forward of where you got it mounted? X2 The pivot ball should be on the motor. Theres no way that will work.

How far forward on the motor is the actual mounting point for the pivot ball? Does anyone have a picture?

EDIT: I'm at work right now. Otherwise, I would just go out to the car and look. :)

Hey Jeff, if you look at the second to last picture in post #6 above, you'll see a bolt in the block that's been painted over, just above the z-bar in the pic. take that out and put the ball stud there.

i looked through your other thread about your trans troubles. someone mentioned cleaning the paint off the mating surface between the BH and block. i'll second that suggestion, because i can see a lot of overspray on your motor in areas like the oil filter boss, so i'll bet there's a bunch of paint on the back of your block where the BH mates. i know a layer of paint seems very insignificant but it's worth a shot. of course, you'll have to take the BH off again which would be a lot easier with the motor hanging from the hoist.....

Hey Aaron,

Take a look at this random picture I found. It looks like the painted bolt visible in the block in that picture is actually to mount something else. I don't exactly remember, but I seem to think that would be too small to mount the pivot ball in. Perhaps, like in this picture, the pivot ball mounts just forward a little more? Closer to the front of the oil filter location?

http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/3615/1stbuildupa.jpg

There should be a square boss threaded for the pivot ball that is located between the oil filter mounting boss and the dipstick boss. The way it is mounted now, your geometry is way off and the Z bar will have lateral motion when the clutch is depressed and could cause the pivort end on the rod to snap off in the z bar.

i have no idea what that contraption is mounted to the side of that motor. but i don't have it, pretty sure you don't either. and that bolt in the picture of YOUR motor sure isn't doing anything right now. i think that bolt is where your stud threads in. there could be another hole forward of that, but i don't seem to remember it, and we can't see that area of the block in your pictures. i peeked under the hood of my car over lunch but it's hard to see w/ the power steering, headers, and brake booster in the way.

Take that bolt out above the oil filter cavity and bolt the pivot ball up right there.. Just make sure its not the hole for your oil pressure.

i have no idea what that contraption is mounted to the side of that motor. but i don't have it, pretty sure you don't either. and that bolt in the picture of YOUR motor sure isn't doing anything right now. i think that bolt is where your stud threads in. there could be another hole forward of that, but i don't seem to remember it, and we can't see that area of the block in your pictures. i peeked under the hood of my car over lunch but it's hard to see w/ the power steering, headers, and brake booster in the way.

My guess is that's a 50s SBC and I believe those used a bracket like that one to hold or support the pivot ball (I could be wrong...). In any case, that seems like a close approximate location to what Jim is describing in the post just above you: a square boss between the oil filter and dipstick boss. In either case, it's in that general region like you said! As soon as I get off work, I will check it out.

EDIT: Nevermind. That smallish bolt that is in those threads was undersized. The pivot ball threads in there just fine.

Here's mine if it helps

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh243/jerry1258/IMG_2633.jpg

Thanks! Now my Z bar is hooked up correctly. So, this seems like a retarded question, but where does the clutch return spring connect in a car with stock exhaust manifolds. I've countless posts about headers interfering, but I don't know where the stock attachment location is.

Take a hose clamp and find a nice spot to put on the header tube.

Take a hose clamp and find a nice spot to put on the header tube.

No headers - just stock manifolds (for now)

No headers - just stock manifolds (for now) OK Then find a spot off the side of the frame (look for a small hole)..

Found a small hole in the back-bottom side of the engine frame-mount. The spring is stretched a bit, but seems to work okay.

Found a small hole in the back-bottom side of the engine frame-mount. The spring is stretched a bit, but seems to work okay. Thats all you need.

This is maybe not kosher but I don't use a return spring and have been running it like this for 3 years. :o

This is maybe not kosher but I don't use a return spring and have been running it like this for 3 years. :o

It would be a really good idea to hook one up. The return spring will do 2 things, it will help the throwout bearing last longer cause the spring pulls all the pressure off of it, and the spring helps keep the linkage tight together so it doesn't just fall off on the road someday.

. . . . and the spring helps keep the linkage tight together so it doesn't just fall off on the road someday.

:eek:

Thanks Jim , I would like to see some pics of how guys have their spring hooked up with headers so I could get that done. I have a new spring still in the wrapper. Also I'm not sure where it goes on the linkage.

I used a flat bar about 3 in. long that bolted to the motro mount to frame bracket. I just used a second nut.

Gary I like that solution, I haven't used the return spring for over 20 years as I never put it back on after installing headers on my BBC - I also use a flat bar to tie up the Reverse Lock Out arm on the Column and bolted it to the back of the Power Brake Booster mount and discarded linkage to the M21 - The woe's of running Headers - LOL

I noted, in my case, the release bearing does not ride the pressure plate when the clutch is released.

Gary I like that solution, I haven't used the return spring for over 20 years as I never put it back on after installing headers on my BBC - I also use a flat bar to tie up the Reverse Lock Out arm on the Column and bolted it to the back of the Power Brake Booster mount and discarded linkage to the M21 - The woe's of running Headers - LOL

I noted, in my case, the release bearing does not ride the pressure plate when the clutch is released.

If there is clearance the backdrive can be modified to work.