I am preparing to finish my 385 build and wanted to get some opinions on this kit from Eagle. It is a .040" over kit with 4340 forged crank, 4340 forged H-beam rods, forged flat top pistons, internally balanced components and floating piston pins. The price sounds pretty good at only $1899.95. What do you guys think? I will need an oil pump, pan and tray and baffle, new timing set and cover, roller cam and roller fuel pump rod and gaskets and some other pieces, but the guts of the setup is this kit.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ESP-B12008040/

I will be swapping the intake over along with the carb until I can get the Edelbrock ProFlo XT fuel injection kit. The heads are going to be AFR 195cc street eliminators. I will be reusing my roller rockers.

Buddy of mine ran those Eagle assemblies and no issues.

As long as its forged your all good...

What kind of power do you think I can get from a 385 stroker? 500hp/500ftlbs?

What kind of power do you think I can get from a 385 stroker? 500hp/500ftlbs? That shouldn't be to much to ask for:thumbsup:.

You would be more than able to run the "I" beam rods and save some weight and money in the process. i spoke with Mike Wolfplace on Chevelles.com before I built mine and while ordering my heads from him. I wanted to run the Scat q-lites and he mentioned there wasn't need for such and that the I-beams would be more than enough, and the money I saved could be spent elsewhere. Wanting 500/500 isn't going to require the h's. I built a 385 with 574/546 and run the scat light weight crank, srp pistons and i beam rods. Couldnt be happier.

That shouldn't be too hard without too much compression.

Running profiled rods can help you here when looking at camshafts, ie, small base circle .

Be careful using ultra lite cranks as when metal is needed in balancing, alloy gets expensive.
I used a Scat profiled crank with Compstar rods,,, I went with a small based circle roller , thinking I would need the clearance only to find that these rods have this clearance built in . The absence of the rod bolt nut , sure cleans things up.

Mike will not steer your wrong.

I was shooting for 500/500 because I thought that would be pushing the limits on what a 385 could produce. Naturally aspirated, do you think it could hit more and still be streetable? I am trying to get the car into the 11's, maybe 10's. What is needed for this and still be driveable everyday, naturally aspirated?

I use Eagle kits,they are really stepping up the quality on their forged stuff.The H beam rods are profiled for better fit in a stroker then most I beams.Eagle just switched to Mahle pistons in most of their kits,and Mahle just switched to the metric ring setup both of these things are good.For the price you mention for a smallblock kit,that should be a balanced kit,but double check no matter what.Also check to see what balancer and flywheel you need for it.The Eagle 4340 kits are usually internally balanced,and this will require a 6" rod in the 3.75" crank kit,and probably pistons with an oil ring support rail.I have to warn you that if you end up with the Mahle pistons and the metric rings you MUST buy a good ring compressor to assemble the engine.Buy a real ring taper,not a band type compressor,as these rings are easily broken during installation.

Good luck.

According to Eagle, they offer the kit I listed with either a 5.7" or 6" rod and they are internally balanced. You mention an oil ring support rail. Shouldn't they be designed to work with what comes in the kit? Isn't that the purpose of buying a kit? So you get what you need and not have to buy additional stuff, as far as the rotating assembly is concerned?

The support rail comes with the rings,but I was just mentioning it because some people dont like that setup unless they really need it for a full race engine.An oil ring support rail is used when the piston is so short that the wrist pin ends up in the same space that is occupied by the oil ring.Part of the oil ring wont have any piston below it to support it,and a steel rail is slid into the pistom before the ring goes on.It was just something I would figure I would mention.

I am using the support ring with my oil scaper on a set of SRP pistons, thru the rail is in the path of the pin. Have had no issues with this setup after some 15K miles on the road.

If I go with forged rods and pistons, do I really need a forged crank? Also, since I went to the TKO, do I have to get a new flywheel for a stroker?

Has anyone heard of these brand of parts? Wheeler?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-350-383-385-Chevy-Forged-Stroker-Rotating-Assembly_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em1 4QQhashZitem3a52571dd9QQitemZ250489544153QQptZRace Q5fCarQ5fParts

If I go with forged rods and pistons, do I really need a forged crank? Also, since I went to the TKO, do I have to get a new flywheel for a stroker?

Why not forged crank? The 9000 series Scat cranks are good but for a few dollars more , go forged.
Internally balanced stroker does not need a new flywheel but billet is nice if you don't have a scatter shield.

Will the Scat 9000 crank hold up to AT LEAST 500/500? I hope it will build more. I am shooting for 475/475 at the wheels, maybe more.

On a side note, what is the drivetrain loss for a standard tranny? I know the auto it's around 20%-25%.

Will the Scat 9000 crank hold up to AT LEAST 500/500? I hope it will build more. I am shooting for 475/475 at the wheels, maybe more.

If you are shooting for high numbers , you need to go to a forged crank as we are never satisfied with anything. Always trying to bleed the turnip.

JimM is the only person I know that has a 9000 series crank, I know he is always dueling with MarkLW and to do that, it take a little effort and I am sure he turns his motor well . Maybe you need to ask him. He is here on this site.

Well, I just ordered my AFR heads. Part number 1040. 195cc street eliminators w/65cc chambers. I am going to install them on my current 350 until I get the remainder of the pieces to assemble the 385. Going from a 76cc chamber 1.94/1.5 valve head to the AFR eliminator 65cc 2.05/1.6 head, what improvements do you think I will see?

BUNCH!!:yes:

Well, I just ordered my AFR heads. Part number 1040. 195cc street eliminators w/65cc chambers. I am going to install them on my current 350 until I get the remainder of the pieces to assemble the 385. Going from a 76cc chamber 1.94/1.5 valve head to the AFR eliminator 65cc 2.05/1.6 head, what improvements do you think I will see?

Charlie, if you are running a hyd FT cam, might want to find out what kind of seat pressures the new heads came with.
I went with the option 8019 springs from AFR, but they were for hyd roller, 155# seat loads.

Do you mean too much pressure or not enough? The cam I have is not that big. It's only 470/470 lift. I am sure the heads can handle that. Now maybe the springs are too stiff. Is that possible? Either way, I did email them to ask.

Do you mean too much pressure or not enough? The cam I have is not that big. It's only 470/470 lift. I am sure the heads can handle that. Now maybe the springs are too stiff. Is that possible? Either way, I did email them to ask.

I was thinking along the line of too much pressure on an old cam. Sometimes this causing problems, Just need to verify with the heads so you will know. My guess is that the new springs will be set at 130# range?? If it was a roller , it would not matter , to a point.