OK, put on new brake pads, springs, etc to rear 68 drums. Pushed in actuator button with screw driver. Bled front discs, bled rears. New drums coming.

Shouldn't the brake light be off now when I push down? Its still coming on.

Perhaps this will change when the drums are finally on and pads are tight to the drums?

It should change with the drums, I am suprised you havent blown the wheel cylinders out
pushing on the brakes with no drum, it leaves no place for the pressure to build up,
check the shoes and wheel cylinders, before buttoning it up.

Do you mean the brake lights at the rear of the car? If so they will not change if the drums are on or not.

Bled front discs, bled rears. New drums coming.

Shouldn't the brake light be off now when I push down? Its still coming on.

Perhaps this will change when the drums are finally on and pads are tight to the drums?
Always start bleeding from the wheel farthest from the MC
Must have the drums on or u will pop the wheel cyclinders
Hand brake needs to be backed right off and shoes adjusted up correct ..
The rear brake light are adjusted with the switch under the dash next to eB and the switch near the pedal

As suggested by earlier posts, further troubleshooting will be needed after the drums are installed.

Once drums are installed, adjust shoes to just drag with brake spoon, then adjust the parking brake to fully engage at 8 clicks, then disengage the p/brake.

If BRAKE light still on, its either the proportioning valve on thr drvr frame rail under the master cylinder or the parking brake switch. Disconnect one brown wire from each item one at a time and view the light. With the wire disconnected, the BRAKE will go out.

If proportioning valve brown wire is disconnected and the light is off, it needs to be centered by bleeding from the affected axle it has slid to prevent leakage. If rear brakes leaked, then bleed the front brakes to center the valve. Pump up the brakes, then open a bleeder as much as you can on one stroke of the wrench and quickly. You're creating a leak for the valve to move from the rear.

If the parking brake lights the BRAKE light, then the flapper/actuator on the parking brake pedal either needs adjustment or alignment to push on the button to turn off the light. or maybe the switch is broken and needs replacement. Good luck on finding a replacement if needed.

These are the only two items to turn on the BRAKE light, unless wire insulation is chaffed and its grounding out to complete the circuit.

Clarification: Brake warning light on dash.

Will do no more pumping until the discs are on!

Will do no more pumping until the discs are on!
been pumping with caliapers emty?
The seals in the calipers also act as 'return springs' for the pistons...
there is a very good possiblity you have twisted or rolled these seals...which means pulling the pistons and replacing these seals
And make sure u use specialist brake rubber grease when installing seals

Parking Brake maybe ???

Put drums on. Mashed/pumped on the brakes several times. Put the emergency on and off several times. Seems to have solved the problem.

Thank you everyone for your help.

The emergency brake can also turn on the brake warning light. There is a switch near the E brake cable end.
The button does not center the switch, it's for bleeding the front brakes with a pressure bleeder.
There are centering springs inside the brake warning switch, only early Ford valves lack the springs and need you to bleed the opposite end to re-center.
David