Hurst Comp. Shifter Rebuild [Archive] - Team Camaro Tech

: Hurst Comp. Shifter Rebuild

Sep 27th, 09, 11:46 AM
Hello all.
I am approaching the milestone of installing my M20 in my 69 Camaro and noticed the shifter is in need of some freshening up.

Years ago I purchased the steel bushings used when inserting rods in the trans levers and shifter body levers.

However, I noticed that my shifter uses rubber bushings at the shifter body levers. These rubber bushings are a MESS.

I know GM specified certain differences in the stock shifters used for production cars. Is this one of those changes.

I haven't yet removed the bushings.

Theses rubber bushings I assume are used to dampen vibration.

Are these rubber bushings stock ? Who can supply new bushings ?



Sep 27th, 09, 09:46 PM
I'm no expert, but I've worked on some Hurst shifters. I just "freshened" my Comp. + shifter on my 69 M20. You can get the bushings and "s" clip looking things at regular auto parts stores (I used Knecht's). I've seen the bushings in "nylon" and metal, never rubber though.
I believe I used metal and cleaned everything on the shifter and linkage. Then I greased the shifter "guts" and reassembled everything. There is a "spring metal" cover over the guts of the shifter which can be removed for cleaning.
I know this isn't a real rebuild as it doesn't address the actual bushings of the shifter arm mechanisms. Hurst will rebuild them, but it's pretty $pendy. I believe more than half of a new shifter.
Aligning the shifter and arms when reinstalling on the tranny is very important. A little off on the neutral positions can cause problems, even locking up tranny so car won't move. It's not that difficult though. There is a hole in the shifter for a 1/4 inch rod ( I used a drill bit) which lines up the neutral points on all three shifter arms.
Good luck,

PS I just reread your post and realize you didn't say if it was a Hurst shifter. That's what 69's came with, so I hope this info is relevant.

Sep 27th, 09, 10:21 PM
Thanks for the reply. Yes, my shifter is the original Hurst. I have no clue why the bushings on the shifter levers are rubber.
Another strange thing is it appears the rods were cut and then welded.
I do have a pack of new metal bushings.
Thanks for the tip on spring metal removal to allow cleaning of the guts.

Sep 28th, 09, 12:09 AM
I'd go ahead and pull the whole thing apart and do like was mentioned..... clean up all the individual parts then grease 'em and put it all back together. just keep all the shifter arms/plates/washers straight so you get them all stacked up in the right order when you go to put it together again. pretty clever design, those old shifters....

Sep 28th, 09, 03:17 AM
Heartbeat must sell those rubbers, read this rebuild process

Sep 28th, 09, 04:50 AM
OEM installations used neoprene bushings for the purpose of making the shifter 'feel' smoother, absorb vibrations.

The nice thing about the metal bushing swapout is they fit the same ID hole. Grease all parts, and as suggested, keep linkage rod alignment between the shifter and trans arm straight.

Sep 28th, 09, 07:22 AM
original 1969 OEM Hurst bushings were molded on rubber

1970-71 OEM Hurst bushings were a rubber insert that can be replaced

The 70-71 style can be used in the 69 but will not look 100% correct

The rubber replacement bushing may still be available from GM as they were used in many applications into the 1980s

Sep 28th, 09, 08:29 AM
Thanks for all the comments and for answering the quesion concerning the rubber bushings.

I am a bit nervous about pulling the whole shifter apart for cleaning. The shifter feels smooth at present when I work it on the bench.

I wish a good exploded view of this shifter was available.

Thanks all.


Sep 28th, 09, 09:59 AM
There is an excellent thread on the Yenko website about rebuilding Hurst shifters...
go to and under Subject...... Technical and Restoration look for 'Rebuilding a Hurst Shifter (Tutorial). It is an excellent explanation of the inner workings of a Competition +.

Sep 28th, 09, 10:21 AM
I Just verified the steel replacement bushings DO NOT fit in the shifter linkages. The bushing OD is too large.

SO, either I open the linkages up to allow for the steel bushing or find the OEM replacement rubber bushings.

Sep 28th, 09, 10:22 AM
THANKS for the heads up on the instructions. I will visit the website.

Sep 28th, 09, 10:49 AM
If you're going to pull it apart, take a picture of each piece as you partially pull it out of the assembly. That'll help you get it back together if you can't find an illustration. That's what I did.

It'll take some elbow grease and a good bit of brake cleaner to get the old wax cleaned off everything. I don't know what everyone else is using for lube but I used waterproof white lithium grease.

I'm going to have to put a set of jam nuts on my 1-2 lever because for some reason it keeps wanting work its way out of adjustment. The other two on mine use a threaded pin at the shift arm, the 1-2 uses one that just slides over the linkage arm with a jam nut on each side. It'll drive fine after each adjustment and then all of a sudden its like trying to unlock the DaVinci code to get it out of reverse.

Sep 28th, 09, 11:35 AM
I will dismantle the shifter and will keep good notes. Still I am puzzled by the rubber OEM rod bushings used at the shifter linkages. The rubber bushings are worn.

The steel replacement bushings do not fit in the linkages. The ID of the bushings is OK as they do slip over the rod buttons, but the OD of the bushing is too large.

Step by Step.


Sep 28th, 09, 01:26 PM
Enlarge the linkage plates.

Sep 28th, 09, 05:16 PM
The OEM Hurst shifter levers do not have round holes. They have a hole with 2 slots so the rubber bushings locks in place. The bushings for the aftermarket Hurst will not fit.

Sep 28th, 09, 06:32 PM
JOE58 is correct, the OEM has the hole and two slots which keep the rubber bushing from rotating.

The OEM bushing doesn't appear to be one that can be replaced as it is a molded piece.

SO, seems my options are a bit limited. I would assume there isn't a rubber replacement piece since we are talking a molded piece.

I can never just leave something alone. :-)

Sep 28th, 09, 11:52 PM
You can shave off the original molded on rubber and clean out the slots then install the
1970-71 style OEM Hurst rubber bushings.

The rubber replacement bushing may still be available from GM as they were used in many applications into the 1980s

I have seen them also on ebay

Sep 29th, 09, 08:26 AM
Thanks for the information and I will start the search for the bushings.
I am still deciding on whether to fully disassemble the shifter. The linkages move freely and question if full tear down and lube is warranted. I will inspect the shifter closely and then decide.
The bushings are for sure shot.