Hello,

I haven't posted on here before but i have been reading on here for a couple of years now just learning as much as I can about camaro's. There is now a camaro that I have seen that is really close to me and I may be interested I don’t have very many details right now but I will hopefully get to go look at it soon.
What I do have is that it is a 1967 rs camaro with a tach, a tilt steering wheel and a 327

I was wondering what you guys thought it was worth as well as what i should look for when i go to look at it.

http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac159/reitzcl/camaro1.jpg
http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac159/reitzcl/camaro2.jpg
http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac159/reitzcl/camaro3.jpg
http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac159/reitzcl/camaro4.jpg

I wonder why it has '68 side marker lights? Maybe they're not wired up.

Passenger mirror! That ain't right!:sad:

Rather than spending time picking the car apart, I'll try to answer your questions as best I can.

As with all 40 year old cars, there will be issues. The main thing to look for is rust and prior collision damage that may have been repaired. Starting at the back, open the trunk. Look at the trunk pan for rust or wrinkles that should not be there. With the trunk open you can look down the insides of the quarter panels to see if there is any bondo squirting through. See if they have been replaced or "skinned". On original GM quarters there should be some stamped numbers in each of the upper corners by the weatherstrip. Check the inside of the tailpanel for prior damage. Look under the rear of the car to insure the framerails are straight and rust free. Count the bolts around the rear end housing cover. 12 bolt rears are worth more than 10 bolts. 67 Camaros should have mono leaf springs. If it has multi leaf springs they (or the whole rear) has been changed. Moving towards the front of the car look at the back window area. That channel is a rust spot on camaros. Check the roof panel for evidence of bondo. Make sure it never had a sunroof cut in it. Next open the doors and look at the area where the quarter panel and the rocker meet. Another common rust spot. Do the door gaps line up nicely and do they open and close as they should? Check the bottom corners of the doors for rust or bondo. With the doors open, inspect the interior. With carpet in place it's hard to tell the condition of the floorboards so you'll have to crawl under the car for that. Look for replaced floor panels or existing rust through. Check the interior for completeness and originality. Extra option such as factory air, tilt wheel, console gauges, fold down rear seat, etc can add value to the car. Do the headlights work as they should and do the headlight doors open and close? Start the car. Does it belch smoke? To really get an idea of the engine the car should be cold prior to starting. If they warmed it up before you arrive to inspect, be careful. With the engine running get out and open the hood. Listen for any wierd noises. Any obvious leaks? Look under the car for any spots of oil or coolant. Once satified under the hood go ahead and close it. Look at the gaps in the hood and front fenders. Do things line up? Ask the owner for every piece of history he knows about the car. Next is the test drive.

The value of the car in the picture can vary from 3,000 to 15,000 depending on condition, options, originality, etc. Your inspection report and more pictures will help the knowledgable folks on this site come up with some pretty good ballpark values.

Without any ugly surprises, I'd put it at $10k or more but if it is for sale at that dealership, I'd bet they want way more. The deluxe interior looks decent with new seat covers, old rug, optional gauges and tilt. I just can't get by the side markers and 68 centercaps on the wheels. Missing the rear lower bumperettes also.

Check the vin number and cowl tag carefully. Post them up here for review.

They could have set the gas cap straight also :). RS models are the bomb...thats why I bought one. Cant get past the side markers also...Travlinz28 hit it on the head for ya.Good luck "Go Baby Go!"

Great checklist Gregg! I agree with these guys, the side markers take away from it, as well as the generic parts store antenna. It does have some good things going for it, like RS, tach, console with gauges. Now..... assuming the paint is presentable and there's no rot in the car, the drivetrain runs well and doesn't have any leaks, all electrical works like it should, suspension is fairly tight, and the rest of the interior isn't too weathered..... I wouldn't hesitate to spend around $14K for it if I were in the market for a car. But that's assuming a LOT about the car. It's just sooo hard to tell from a few pics like this. That could be a crappy $199 special paint job on top of bondo, the rest of the interior could be super faded, the motor could run like crap and leak, a bunch of electrical stuff is inop..... you get the idea.

if a dealership has it they got it cheap or want way to much, theres a dealership here that had a 68 Vert said the owner had it for 30 yrs was all original but got repainted... ya it got repainted there were runs all over the bottom of the doors and rockers... they wanted 30K id say it was a good 18 - 20K car the shoulda left the old paint on it

Looks good, but can certainly be deceiving...I bet they are asking 25K or maybe more.

Look at the under the car very carefully, it is usually one of the most neglected places. Does the paint look solid down to the pinch weld that runs the length of the car on each side under the doors and fenders? Sometimes you can find all kind of paint runs or no paint at all, just overspray. Looking from the bottom, does it look like the car had a jack placed under the floorboard instead of a frame rail? Look at the welds on the front subframe, are they close to the same on each side? If there is a ton of weld material on one side and little on the other it could be a sign of previous repair. Something definetly caused the side marker lights to be put on the car. Suspect a front end hit, they replaced with 68' fenders as thats what they had, and cut in the rear side markers to match. Write down exactly what you see on the rectangular tag you see on the firewall by the brake master cylinder. Copy exactly how it looks on a piece of paper and post it here in the "Tag Team" section asking what it all means and then you can know if what it has is original and if it doesnt have anything anymore that was original. Good luck!

Why would a dealership leave a decal on the rear window saying GO BABY GO? While your admiring the decal check around the rear window, another place 67s likes to rust. Check the package tray and the trim around the tray for signs of leaks. If it is rusted through around the rear window it may show up on the package tray or in the trunk.
Check the upper corners of the rear window. See if the contours of the body match the stainless trim. If they don't and there is a gap between the body and the trim it may indicate the rear quarter was replaced. Those reflectors would and the bump strip would have to go.
The valve covers on these cars like to leak. Don' be surprised to see oil on the side of the block.

Roger

those side marker's and 68 up cap's can be removed and placed on EBAY :yes:

look's like a pretty solid car if the floor's are good and no damage is found that thes pics could be hiding I'd say it would be an easy car to straighten out ,

#1 remove side marker's
#2 remove 68 center cap's and replace with 67 flat cap's
#3 remove passenger mirror (AS STATED ABOVE) THAT JUST AIN'T RIGHT :noway:
#4 THE MUD FLAP'S / GO BABY GO STICKER / AND K-MART EXHAUST TIP'S HAVE GOT TO GO !

#5 you will find a knot tied in the string holding the steering wheel wrap on CUT THE KNOT when the string starts to unravel pull it and when the wrap is loose enough REMOVE IT AND PLACE IT IN THE DUMPSTER OUT BEHIND THE DEALERSHIP :D

#6 take some more pic's !

I am no good at this but you can tell making a few very minor changes can make a big difference !

http://i394.photobucket.com/albums/pp27/RS3SDL2MG/camaro2.jpg

I am no good at this but you can tell making a few very minor changes can make a big difference !

http://i394.photobucket.com/albums/pp27/RS3SDL2MG/camaro2.jpg

Much better. Now, about those holes where the side markers were...the other stuff is details. Holes are a problem.

#3 remove passenger mirror (AS STATED ABOVE) THAT JUST AIN'T RIGHT

It may not be 'right' from the standpoint that it did not come that way from the factory, but it is a common add-on feature. For safety reasons, I think it's a good thing to have. There is a reason dual mirrors are required on new cars.

Other than that, hey - it's a 67. How can you go wrong?

It may not be 'right' from the standpoint that it did not come that way from the factory, but it is a common add-on feature. For safety reasons, I think it's a good thing to have. There is a reason dual mirrors are required on new cars.

Other than that, hey - it's a 67. How can you go wrong?

Agreed, no fun driving a '67 in city/highway traffic without a passenger side mirror! Convex if you can get it!! Mandatory in my opinion. Don't be the only one on the road at a visual disadvantage.:noway:

That's a great year.

:D passenger side mirror on a 67 camaro NOT GONNA HAPPEN !
the rear view interior mirror is all you need ,,,:yes:

I have the passenger side mirror on my 67 and like it..nor is it a big deal to me. But those side marker lights are a whole different story.

I have put several thousand miles on the road driving a 67 Camaro and have never had a passenger side mirror, but out of habbit, I have glanced over there a time or two. No mirror for me.

those side marker's and 68 up cap's can be removed and placed on EBAY :yes:

look's like a pretty solid car if the floor's are good and no damage is found that thes pics could be hiding I'd say it would be an easy car to straighten out ,

#1 remove side marker's
#2 remove 68 center cap's and replace with 67 flat cap's
#3 remove passenger mirror (AS STATED ABOVE) THAT JUST AIN'T RIGHT :noway:
#4 THE MUD FLAP'S / GO BABY GO STICKER / AND K-MART EXHAUST TIP'S HAVE GOT TO GO !

#5 you will find a knot tied in the string holding the steering wheel wrap on CUT THE KNOT when the string starts to unravel pull it and when the wrap is loose enough REMOVE IT AND PLACE IT IN THE DUMPSTER OUT BEHIND THE DEALERSHIP :D

#6 take some more pic's !
Why take of the leather of the steering wheel ? Isn't this a after market steering wheel ? What's under the leather strap tied around it ? Won't it be slippery without the leather cover ? Just curious as why remove it ?

Just curious, if this car came from the factory with a twelve bolt rear would it have traction bar and would it have 275 horse engine.