I saw this ad, and wonder how it would do over my Comp XE284 cam I have now. Would it be worth the time and money. I also would have to change springs too, what else?

Here is a copy of the post for sale...

$350
This is the complete setup for a hydalic roller cam in a non-roller pre 86' small block chevy engine block (327/350/400).

---- These is Compcams horizontal bar retrofit fit lifters ($320 summit They drop right in small block chevy and your good to go.

---- CompCams Xtream Eneregy 294HR cam 242/248 .542/.560 @ 110 Veryvery streetable, great powerband

---- CompCams pushrods



------------------
383 Speed-O-Motive stroker kit with Holley 750DP, RPM intake,MSD6a box,World Products Sportsman II heads, ported and polished with 2.02/1.60 valves,64cc,TRW forged pistons with 10.7:1 compression, Comp Xtreme 284 cam,Crane pushrods, Comp Cam 1.6 full roller rockers,ATI damper, 40 series Flowmasters, 4.11 gears with TH350 and Hughes 3000 stall.

Tracy,

For what's worth, I vote for either a good street/strip solid cam or go all the way and get a solid roller.

For a solid, I would choose about a 240I/250E, w/ max. lift and small lash numbers on 110/106 or 108/106 centers or possibly a little more up to a 250I.

For the solid roller I would go about the same except it's lift would be higher.

From what I've read since I HAVE NO real experience here, is that the hydraulic roller isn't really that big of an improvement over a good comparable solid cam. And it gets smaller as you step up to a comparable solid roller.

I know it's a hassle lashing a cam, but!!

Just my humble opinion. pdq67

Thanks pdq67, that's what I was looking for....just a real opinion. I may look at the solids....thanks!

------------------
383 Speed-O-Motive stroker kit with Holley 750DP, RPM intake,MSD6a box,World Products Sportsman II heads, ported and polished with 2.02/1.60 valves,64cc,TRW forged pistons with 10.7:1 compression, Comp Xtreme 284 cam,Crane pushrods, Comp Cam 1.6 full roller rockers,ATI damper, 40 series Flowmasters, 4.11 gears with TH350 and Hughes 3000 stall.

Tracy,

PDQ knows his biz on this IMO. I would not touch a solid flat tappet cam for years and finally tried one this summer. Great improvement IMO.

Comp Cams told me (two different reps on two different phone calls) that a solid flat tappet would perform just as well, if not slightly better than a hydraulic roller. Of course they said a solid roller would be the ultimate - but a tad out of my price range.

Good luck

Eric

ps. PDQ - where were you for the great solid vs hydraulic cam debate of last week? http://www.camaros.net/forum/wink.gif I could have used some back up. hehehe.

------------------
68 Camaro, 383 small block with TH350 trans. 11.98's at 111mph and never trailered.

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Eric68:
ps. PDQ - where were you for the great solid vs hydraulic cam debate of last week? http://www.camaros.net/forum/wink.gif I could have used some back up. hehehe.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>Thanks Eric, I read that.........very good reading.



------------------
383 Speed-O-Motive stroker kit with Holley 750DP, RPM intake,MSD6a box,World Products Sportsman II heads, ported and polished with 2.02/1.60 valves,64cc,TRW forged pistons with 10.7:1 compression, Comp Xtreme 284 cam,Crane pushrods, Comp Cam 1.6 full roller rockers,ATI damper, 40 series Flowmasters, 4.11 gears with TH350 and Hughes 3000 stall.

I said it in the other thread and will say it again. Use caution selecting a solid lifter cam. I'm not opposed to them and I won't argue about their merit. I will offer up that they are for higher reving engines and will leave a hole in the throttle below 3000 - 4000 rpm! Just look at the base rpm range on this sample http://cranecams.com/master/apps/chevy21.htm I didn't hand select the list, it's the first SBC solids listed on the Crane site.

------------------
...Dennis
"The '69 (http://chevelles.com/showroom/fine69_03.jpg), the '96 (http://chevelles.com/showroom/fine69_02.jpg) & the club (http://camaroslimited.com/)"

Now I do have a qustion, will that hydraulic roller I mentioned be fine for a daily driver? Or would I still be better off with just a regular hydraulic? I f i won't gain much by changing cam,lifters,pushrods and springs, it seems it would be worth the money.
Thoughts on this comparo?
P.S Not looking for a debate, just for my application which would you do.

Thanks all in advance.

------------------
383 Speed-O-Motive stroker kit with Holley 750DP, RPM intake,MSD6a box,World Products Sportsman II heads, ported and polished with 2.02/1.60 valves,64cc,TRW forged pistons with 10.7:1 compression, Comp Xtreme 284 cam,Crane pushrods, Comp Cam 1.6 full roller rockers,ATI damper, 40 series Flowmasters, 4.11 gears with TH350 and Hughes 3000 stall.

This seems to be a close call.Imo..
The roller looks decent for a 383.
It should have better street manners compared to what you have now.. And would run stronger too, but... considering all that is involved with a cam swap and just ditching your cam kit too well... It would be easier to decide if your current cam was way off the mark... but it isn`t.
What you would gain would be... less friction, and a bit more lift. Would you guess maybe 20 hp ?? or maybe 25??
I can see why it look`s so tempting ...hey if there is any room for negotiating... and you can off your cam set up...you might be very happy with the swap.
IMO Hydra-rollers in the right situation can straddle a few fences and still get the job done http://www.camaros.net/forum/smile.gif

------------------
68 biscayne 4060lbs
468 iron oval port 10.25-1 TH400 Flowmasters&radials
11.85 ET @ 113.7 MPH

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by BigRed-L72:
This seems to be a close call.Imo..
The roller looks decent for a 383.
It should have better street manners compared to what you have now.. And would run stronger too, but... considering all that is involved with a cam swap and just ditching your cam kit too well... It would be easier to decide if your current cam was way off the mark... but it isn`t.
What you would gain would be... less friction, and a bit more lift. Would you guess maybe 20 hp ?? or maybe 25??
I can see why it look`s so tempting ...hey if there is any room for negotiating... and you can off your cam set up...you might be very happy with the swap.
IMO Hydra-rollers in the right situation can straddle a few fences and still get the job done http://www.camaros.net/forum/smile.gif

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>Thanks for all the feedback......have some thinking to do.

Have a great Thanksgiving to all!



------------------
383 Speed-O-Motive stroker kit with Holley 750DP, RPM intake,MSD6a box,World Products Sportsman II heads, ported and polished with 2.02/1.60 valves,64cc,TRW forged pistons with 10.7:1 compression, Comp Xtreme 284 cam,Crane pushrods, Comp Cam 1.6 full roller rockers,ATI damper, 40 series Flowmasters, 4.11 gears with TH350 and Hughes 3000 stall.

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>I said it in the other thread and will say it again. Use caution selecting a solid lifter cam. I'm not opposed to them and I won't argue about their merit. I will offer up that they are for higher reving engines and will leave a hole in the throttle below 3000 - 4000 rpm!<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

My personal experince differs. I'm running the same cam as Eric68, and I can attest to the instant off idle neck snapping torque you will have with this cam, a Performer RPM, and 9.8:1 cr with aftermarket heads. This is with a 2400 stall converter and a 3.55 rear.

Very streetable, and very drivable, and with about 20 passes and ~2500 miles the valves have not required re-adjusting.

This combo runs 12.67@108 on DOT tires.

Don't knock it man! http://www.camaros.net/forum/smile.gif

[This message has been edited by Ballistic (edited 11-21-2001).]

Sorry that I missed out on the solid/hydraulic cams thing. I w/ go back and catch up.
Dennis, you are right about the cruise rpm and recommended CR. of most of the solid cams that are being offered for sale by the cam companies nowadays.

But if you look past whats being offered to something like a 270/275advertised duration, 230/235 duration at .050", .470"/.470" gross lift tight lash .012"/.018" cam on say 110/106 centers, you will find that it will run rings around most comparable hydraulic cams and fit right in a 9.5 to 1 CR. engine.

I say this tongue in cheek b/c I have never ran one like this but have only used Dyno2000's trends to zero in on something like it.

Please make up a mild 327 or 350 engine combination and simulate say, a CC 270 Magnum hydraulic cam and then plug in a -097, little Duntov along w/ a set of 1.6 rockers to up it's very low lift.

1. -097 little Duntov solid, 283 hp/315hp/283, 287/287, 228/230, .395”/.383” net, .401”/.383”net, 110.5/108

2. -178 330hp/350 solid, 242/254, .459”/.439net,.485”/.455”net, 117/111

3. –346 big Duntov, 30-30 solid, 290hp/302 and 365hp/375hp/327, 254/254, .485”/.455”net,..485”/.455”net, 114/111. Something like a 304/304 advertised duration.

4. -140 302 Off road cam, 257/269 duration at .050", 112/110, .493"/.512" gross lift, need .024"/,026" lash.

5. –151 350hp/327 hydraulic, 222/222, .447”/.447”, 114/110. Something like a 290/290 advertised duration.

6. –962 350hp/350 hydraulic, .450”/.460”, 115/114

7. 230/230, .480”/.480” aftermarket hydraulic, 109/107. This is like CC's 280 Magnum.

8. 218/218, .458”/.458” aftermarket hydraulic, 110/105. This is like a small "Fireball" cam or CC's HE268.

9. 204/214, .420”/.442” aftermarket hydraulic, 111/107. This is the "Performer" cam.

I imported these cam spec's from a post I made earlier if it helps. You notice the jump from the -097 to the bigger solid cams.

Has anybody ever stopped to wonder why most of the cam companies never push the 270 and 280 cams. I think that it might be that they are right at the top of the heap of the cams that can be considered street cams that produce great amounts of T and hp. 270 for SB's and 280 for BB's!!! So why push the cam that almost everybody would be happiest with!! Heck, they could never sell any of their other cams if these produced the best of both worlds "ON THE STREET and WITH STREET GEARS!!!" Think about it for a minute. pdq67

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by DjD:
I said it in the other thread and will say it again. Use caution selecting a solid lifter cam. I'm not opposed to them and I won't argue about their merit. I will offer up that they are for higher reving engines and will leave a hole in the throttle below 3000 - 4000 rpm! Just look at the base rpm range on this sample http://cranecams.com/master/apps/chevy21.htm I didn't hand select the list, it's the first SBC solids listed on the Crane site.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Dennis,

I believe the reason those cams are advertised with the 3000 and up RPM range is because of the grind more than the solid lifter design IMO. The duration on the smallest was around 240* @ .050" lift. Lobe separation was a whopping 114*. This is a grind designed for a short stroke / small cube high winding small block (like a 302) IMO. Tighter lobe separation will bring the RPM range down regardless of lifter design. A smaller duration figure will do the same.

Interesting subject, but I am NOT trying to start another debate on solid vs. hydraulic lifters!!!! http://www.camaros.net/forum/biggrin.gif

Happy Thanksgiving!

Eric I understand that, If you look at profiles available via the various web sites most solids listed are ground about the same as the samples I provided. Some of the Isky solids I looked at showed power in the 2500-6500 range but from what I've seen very few fit the bill. Look at the DD2000 comparison I did in this thread www.camaros.net/forum/Forum4/HTML/002999.html (http://www.camaros.net/forum/Forum4/HTML/002999.html) you'll see what happens when using the same cam specs for a hyd roller, a hyd flat and a solid...

------------------
...Dennis
"The '69 (http://chevelles.com/showroom/fine69_03.jpg), the '96 (http://chevelles.com/showroom/fine69_02.jpg) & the club (http://camaroslimited.com/)"

Dennis, I see what you mean. I pulled my PAW catalog out [since it lists LSA for just about every cam in the book] and this is what I found:

Comp Cams: 110* on everything they have that is solid.
Crower: 112-114* on Pro-street series, 105-106* for the Beast cams, and 105-106* for Oval track cams.
Crane: 112-114* Musclecar cams, 106* on oval track cams.
SSI Performance: 108-114* for solid cams
'70 GM LT1 cam: 116* LSA [wow]

It seems that most of solid cams on the market intended for street machines have 112* or greater LSA. Fortunately, there seems to still be enough of a selection of "tighter" cams out there to choose from for us folks that want some low end grunt too.

I called Comp, and they suggested a smaller 236/236 and .490/.490 lift, small base diameter cam and 110 LSA for mine,being it has high compression. I have the XE284, 240/244@.050 and .540/.544 lift and 110 LSA now, and no problems.
Wouldn't the smaller cam seem to not let me bleed of some cylinder pressure on a high compression engine?

------------------
383 Speed-O-Motive stroker kit with Holley 750DP, RPM intake,MSD6a box,World Products Sportsman II heads, ported and polished with 2.02/1.60 valves,64cc,TRW forged pistons with 10.7:1 compression, Comp Xtreme 284 cam,Crane pushrods, Comp Cam 1.6 full roller rockers,ATI damper, 40 series Flowmasters, 4.11 gears with TH350 and Hughes 3000 stall.

Eric68,
Where did you get the information for SSI's solid cams? I would like to add their cat. to my collection for future reference.

Tracy, I have a feeling that you might be just under the static compression ratio that would allow you to use the CC 282S cam, (or is that dynamic CR.??) if the CC TECH Rep said it would be fine.

I do think that the smaller of two cams will always work a schosh better unless the engine is right on the "nuts". Thats why I go on so much about little solids and stuff like that for "street engines". IMHO. pdq67

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by pdq67:
Eric68,
Where did you get the information for SSI's solid cams? I would like to add their cat. to my collection for future reference.

Tracy, I have a feeling that you might be just under the static compression ratio that would allow you to use the CC 282S cam, (or is that dynamic CR.??) if the CC TECH Rep said it would be fine.

I do think that the smaller of two cams will always work a schosh better unless the engine is right on the "nuts". Thats why I go on so much about little solids and stuff like that for "street engines". IMHO. pdq67<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Thanks pdq67, not sure of actual compression. When I bought the pistons, they just told me 10.7:1 with a 64cc head. And i use the FelPro .041" thick gasket, but don't have any detonation problems. Timing is at 13 degrees initial and 34 total.



------------------
383 Speed-O-Motive stroker kit with Holley 750DP, RPM intake,MSD6a box,World Products Sportsman II heads, ported and polished with 2.02/1.60 valves,64cc,TRW forged pistons with 10.7:1 compression, Comp Xtreme 284 cam,Crane pushrods, Comp Cam 1.6 full roller rockers,ATI damper, 40 series Flowmasters, 4.11 gears with TH350 and Hughes 3000 stall.

Hey Tracy, I have the same engine as you except mine is a 10.9 compression with gear drive and a 400 hp shot of nitrous. Okay here is the deal. You cam has to match your torque converter and rearend. See heres the deal. If your cam comes on to early it would miss the torque curve and die before your torque converter lit up. If you over cam it it won't turn on til your motor is about to die. I will tell you what works good and will give you the power to beat most cars in your city and the track. It is COMP CAMS 292H. This is what I run, and believe me for a $100 at summit (1-800-230-3030) You will not be disappointed. It is a hydraulic Cam meant to turn on at 2,800-3,200 RPM. This is when you torque converter starts up and tells you I got the power. Good luck man.
P.S&gt; Trust me you'll like it! You may even get a short wheelie (NO NOS)

------------------
It is better to burn out than fade away

PDQ67, I got the SSI cams straight out of the PAW catalog. There's only a half dozen solid cams in the cat, and the specs are all over the place!

Deimos, Desktop Dyno (not 100% accurate on everything, I know) shows the 292H at 376 ft/lbs at 3000 rpm (Tracy's stall speed) and a max of 445 ft/lbs at 4500. It shows 423 ft/lbs at 3000 RPM and 478 ft/lbs max at 4500 rpm for the Comp 282S with 1.6 rockers. this is with a single plane intake - proabbly the right manifold for both cams IMO. A dual plane intake flattens the curve out a bit, but the difference is still pretty significant. The 292H is a good cam, don't get me wrong, I've seen some 383 powered cars run real fast with that cam; but if you're looking for torque down a little smaller is a bit better IMO.

------------------
68 Camaro, 383 small block with TH350 trans. 11.98's at 111mph and never trailered.

ps. another good choice in the solid cams if you want to take advantage of those 4.11's AND bleed off some cylinder pressure at the same time would be the CC 294s - a little bigger and will breath up high little better than the 282S.

Dennis, you are on the money with the solids from Crane. As you know I am in the market for a cam and I have been doing loads of research this last week or so. I have called and talked to several companies. I am going with a solid and I found Isky to have the best otions (on paper) so I ordered up one today. I should have the engine back in he car this weekend (I postponed the blower idea until next year). Isky seems to have (or at least claim) that their solids have a wider powerband than all the others I saw. I wanted a cam that would be good from 3000-7500 and they are the only ones (that I saw) that had something to fit the bill. Of course my car is not a daily driver nor do I care about "street manners" the rougher the idle the better for me. Shneider seemed to have a few pretty nice solid grinds too, but Isky was very helpful and seemed to have the "perfect" grind for me. I will let you all know once I get it dialed in and make a few passes. I am a little concerned about the 108 LSA ( I have always opted for wider, usually around 110-112). I will give you guys an honest report even if it is a slug. Picking a cam is always the single most difficult choice for me when building an engine, so I know how some of you feel.

Royce

------------------
70 Camaro 383ci
69 Camaro 385ci
2000 GMC Z71
Link to my 70
http://profiles.yahoo.com/camaroman7d

[This message has been edited by camaroman7d (edited 11-27-2001).]

[This message has been edited by camaroman7d (edited 11-27-2001).]

Well were can I find this desktop dyno I have looked for those, and all of them really suck that I have found. Most are for the LS-1 engines. Even though my camshaft is supposed supposed to be. But if you really want, ask your local machine shop they should have the right recommendation.

------------------
It is better to burn out than fade away

Deimos,

You can usually get a copy of Dyno2000 from Northern Automotive Parts, Summit and others and even order direct from Mr. Gasket. It is made by or "designed by" Motion Performance and Mr Gasket markets it.

You can usually get a copy of Dyno2000, Drag and whatever they are calling the cam library one as a decently priced package. I started with Desktop Dyno and then got Dyno2000 and Drag. I wanted Dyno2000 so that I could play with a possible supercharger.

You are looking at a decent price for all three for under $100 or that's what they were the last time I looked.

camaroman7d,

Isky Jr. did a three cam test years ago with one of the mag's to dramatically illustrate what changes in LCA does to mid-range and top-end power, whether you look at t or hp.

The test consisted of three identically ground cams except for LCA's Don't hold me to the numbers b/c I might be getting my cam test articles mixed up!!

Anyway, if I got my test right, it went something like 114, 108 and 100 LCA's and intake durations like 218 or 219(I think????)

To make a long story short, the 100 LCA cam blew the others out of the water as far as bumped up mid-range power was concened but Isky Jr. emphatically said such a cam was NOT for sale by Isky b/c it's bad points way out weighed it's good points.

There was also another test by another mag, years ago that showed how decreasing LCA's affect power production. This time, the cams were something like a 195 on both 110 and 106 or so, a 218 or 9 on the same and finally a 222 on 112 and 108, if memory serves me right. All tested in the same engine.

The results were such that you could see the mid-range power go way up in all cases with the tighter LCA cams but as luck would have the test, the rpm range and engine spec's weren't good/high enough to show the same effect with hp higher up with the wider LCA cams. You could just barely see how the hp was on the way up with the wider LCA cams when the engine combination started to lay down.

And one last point is that it was determined that cams over about 220 to 222 duration are about the max you can go on a low compression street engine before you lose more down low then you gain up-stairs before you have to add compression to make up for too late an intake closing point!

All this stuff just fascinates the heck outta me. pdq67

Eric68, so you are saying that best overall for my setup would be the Comp 282S?
Now is there horror stories with using a solid for a daily driver. I hear of having to set valve lash all the time, or possibly use a stud girdle.

Now if I change the the solid 282S, what is the total specs on it, like @.050 and lift with my 1.6 rockers? Would it be fine for daily torque? Other than cam/lifters, I would have to change out sprinsg too, correct? Anything else that you can think of that I would need to change?

Thanks for all your help guys.....I'm slow, but learning. http://www.camaros.net/forum/biggrin.gif

------------------
383 Speed-O-Motive stroker kit with Holley 750DP, RPM intake,MSD6a box,World Products Sportsman II heads, ported and polished with 2.02/1.60 valves,64cc,TRW forged pistons with 10.7:1 compression, Comp Xtreme 284 cam,Crane pushrods, Comp Cam 1.6 full roller rockers,ATI damper, 40 series Flowmasters, 4.11 gears with TH350 and Hughes 3000 stall.

TRACY....I can`t understand what`s wrong with the cam you already have! The suggestions given so far all seem to be leading you to a solid cam. One of which has been documented to show that it`s hyd version, for a street motor was the way to go.
All that expense and labor and the possibility of a problem with cam break in, for potential loss of performance.
If all you want is a tad more bottem end then toss in a set of RHOADS lifters. they will allow 5-8 degrees LESS timing for idle and will allow you to get a run up on that cam. IMO you are just too close to a good set up now.... Better take a hard look at the whole picture before jumping in to that potential mess.
And if you want a tried and true hard running set up that would probably run 11.5`s in a light weight 1st gen camaro with 3.55 gears i got one... http://www.camaros.net/forum/smile.gif HYDRAULIC F/T!!

------------------
68 biscayne 4060lbs
468 iron oval port 10.25-1 TH400 Flowmasters&radials
11.85 ET @ 113.7 MPH

Tracey -

I missed the daily driver part. The maintenance is not a problem for a weekend driver with a solid but may be more than YOU would like for a DAILY driver. I actually agree with Big Red (believe it or not) on that point. BUT If you're OK with valve lash check/adjustment when you change your oil and a little valvetrain noise then you'll probably be perfectly happy with a solid (people drove DZ302 Z28's with the Duntov solid cam daily - right). They're not nearly as much trouble as some would have you believe, just maybe too much for SOME people in a DAILY driver.

This is my personal opinion here - some would disagree (Big Red for one) but if you want a cam that makes power much over 6000 RPM, a solid lifter cam is the way to go. A hydraulic lifter will pump up, is heavier than a solid, and a hydraulic will float the valves sooner than a solid lifter above 6000 R's.

Again my opinion here - the cam you have in there now is not a great match for a dual plane intake. The dual plane will start to fade a bit above 5,500 with the 383 and is just about dead at 6000 RPM. The XE 284 is big enough to pull to around 6500 in a 383 but has hydraulic lifters so the R's you gain above 6000 are somewhat offset by the limitations of a hydraulic lifter.

Not trying to start an argument here, but you WILL be much better off with a smaller cam IMO. Something in 230-236* duration range would be ideal IMO. If you want a bunch more power - the CC 294s and a Vic Jr with a 1" spacer would be the way to go. If you want to mellow out your ride a little and keep the RPM manifold, an XE274, 280H Magnum or even the 282S would be good choices.

Good luck with your cam swap - it's hard to pick the right cam and it makes it even harder when you have to sift through all these different opinions! . . . and now you have mine http://www.camaros.net/forum/biggrin.gif

Thanks, I might stick with the hydraulic and possibly get the XE274. I believe it's 230/235@.050 with .487/.490 lift, and I can still add my 1.6 RR's.

Thanks for all the help guys, it's more than appreciated.

------------------
383 Speed-O-Motive stroker kit with Holley 750DP, RPM intake,MSD6a box,World Products Sportsman II heads, ported and polished with 2.02/1.60 valves,64cc,TRW forged pistons with 10.7:1 compression, Comp Xtreme 284 cam,Crane pushrods, Comp Cam 1.6 full roller rockers,ATI damper, 40 series Flowmasters, 4.11 gears with TH350 and Hughes 3000 stall.

Well i thought i could just read the last post and just shrug it off, but there are some impressionable good people reading these post`s and i feel responsible in doing my part in helping where and if i can http://www.camaros.net/forum/smile.gif

So first off... yes a solid lifter WILL make measurably more power at elevated levels.
That`s no secret, but what seems to have escaped notice here is, that a good hydraulic cam will rev ...7000 RPM... is that enough for most people, i would think so.!!
If you focus too much on PEAK HORSEPOWER level`s your car will almost certainly be slower than it could be.
Peak HP doesn`t amount to a pile of spit if there`s an anemic torque curve under it.
Torque moves weight.
It takes a lot more power to run a car down once he`s put 5 lengths on you by the 330 mark.!!

Second..A dual plane is EXACTLY what you want for that motor. It will help move that car quicker and still be there on the top end, no problemo!!





------------------
68 biscayne 4060lbs
468 iron oval port 10.25-1 TH400 Flowmasters&radials
11.85 ET @ 113.7 MPH

TRACY think a little bit more...The RHOADS lifter are a drop in!!! you are just fine with them in your application.
A long stroke motor loke yours is certainly streetable with just a whisker less timing. That`s what those lifters will do for you. Hey it`s your call.. http://www.camaros.net/forum/smile.gif

------------------
68 biscayne 4060lbs
468 iron oval port 10.25-1 TH400 Flowmasters&radials
11.85 ET @ 113.7 MPH

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by BigRed-L72:
TRACY think a little bit more...The RHOADS lifter are a drop in!!! you are just fine with them in your application.
A long stroke motor loke yours is certainly streetable with just a whisker less timing. That`s what those lifters will do for you. Hey it`s your call.. http://www.camaros.net/forum/smile.gif

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>True, cheaper also.....have to pull the heads anyways, the lifter change would be easy.
Thanks!



------------------
383 Speed-O-Motive stroker kit with Holley 750DP, RPM intake,MSD6a box,World Products Sportsman II heads, ported and polished with 2.02/1.60 valves,64cc,TRW forged pistons with 10.7:1 compression, Comp Xtreme 284 cam,Crane pushrods, Comp Cam 1.6 full roller rockers,ATI damper, 40 series Flowmasters, 4.11 gears with TH350 and Hughes 3000 stall.

Big Red - I disagree with you on the dual plane comment. I have swapped TWO Vic Jr's onto small blocks this summer that had Performer RPM's - one on a 327 with the XE284 and one on my 383 with the 282S. The 327 motor picked up 3/10ths in the 1/4! My 383 picked up 1-1.5/10th. Yes my 383 lost just a tad of torque from 3000 - 4000 RPM but more than made up for that between 4000 and 6500 RPM. The SLIGHTLY lighter hitting torque off the line actually HELPED my 60' times since it was easier to hook up.

Tracey - it's really up to you, I have used Comp Cam's version of Rhoads lifters and they do help a little if you are overcammed. Keep in mind though that there are some who believe that you cannot reuse old lifters on a new cam OR use new lifters on an old cam. I personally have never tried either. I would suggest calling the Comp help line just to make sure it's OK.

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Eric68:
Tracey - it's really up to you, I have used Comp Cam's version of Rhoads lifters and they do help a little if you are overcammed. Keep in mind though that there are some who believe that you cannot reuse old lifters on a new cam OR use new lifters on an old cam. I personally have never tried either. I would suggest calling the Comp help line just to make sure it's OK.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>Yea, I have heard that too....but I'll give them a calll. thanks!



------------------
383 Speed-O-Motive stroker kit with Holley 750DP, RPM intake,MSD6a box,World Products Sportsman II heads, ported and polished with 2.02/1.60 valves,64cc,TRW forged pistons with 10.7:1 compression, Comp Xtreme 284 cam,Crane pushrods, Comp Cam 1.6 full roller rockers,ATI damper, 40 series Flowmasters, 4.11 gears with TH350 and Hughes 3000 stall.

Tracy - one more thought here. If you keep the Performer RPM manifold and have room under your hood - you might want to try a 1" spacer. It will add some volume to the plenum; that will make your manifold "act" a little bigger and will become a better match for the cam. Could be worth a 1/10th or more in the quarter with your set up.

Good luck!

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Eric68:
Tracy - one more thought here. If you keep the Performer RPM manifold and have room under your hood - you might want to try a 1" spacer. It will add some volume to the plenum; that will make your manifold "act" a little bigger and will become a better match for the cam. Could be worth a 1/10th or more in the quarter with your set up.

Good luck!<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>thanks, I'll try it..............



------------------
383 Speed-O-Motive stroker kit with Holley 750DP, RPM intake,MSD6a box,World Products Sportsman II heads, ported and polished with 2.02/1.60 valves,64cc,TRW forged pistons with 10.7:1 compression, Comp Xtreme 284 cam,Crane pushrods, Comp Cam 1.6 full roller rockers,ATI damper, 40 series Flowmasters, 4.11 gears with TH350 and Hughes 3000 stall.

I think the addage is to be sure to put the old lifters on the lobe it came off of. If you can't do that don't reuse them. I have never heard not to use use new lifters on an old cam. I know guys/shops that put new lifters on the old cams all the time.

The fast bleed lifters (Rhoads) can indeed help an over cam'd engine... If your cam is in good condition a lifter swap won't hurt anything...

------------------
...Dennis
"The '69 (http://chevelles.com/showroom/fine69_03.jpg), the '96 (http://chevelles.com/showroom/fine69_02.jpg) & the club (http://camaroslimited.com/)"

I had 1200 or so miles on my new car when my buddy, Nuts, talked me into changing the -929 cam out for 350hp/327, -151 cam.

Nuts was the trans. rebuilder at the big Chevy dealer in Des Moines, IA at that time.

I gave him a $20, and he came back the next day w/ the cam and a gasket set. He just put my old lifters on the new cam and said everything's fine. And was it ever!!

I asked him what I owed him and he said the grin on my face as it fired off and a six-pak was payment enough! pdq67