My steering radius is nothing to the left and OK to the right. Is it possible, the slotted pin on the steering arm under the car was not centered and then the people adjusted both wheels to compensate?

I read somewhere the arm can only go on a certain way?

Pitman arm goes on steering box four ways (only one correct way). I'm not sure if it can be put on 90 degrees off and the tie rods adjusted to compensate. If the tie rods have been turned that far the end inside the sleeve will be touching on one and way apart on the other. Turn the wheel all the way left and try to determine why it won't go any more. It may help to see how far to the right it will go and compare to how far left.

Jeff

There is only 1 way to setup...there is no compensate way
The steering box is centered...
then the steering wheel centered and rag joint bolted up
Pull the steering wheel and make sure it is on the splines corect..it only goes on 1 way...if it is not the indicators dont work right.
Then the pitman is put on staight ahead with splines lining up
Pull all the adjusting shims.
The wheels are centered, then tie rods connected
Now goes up on the wheel alginment for caster /camber..both sides should have close to even shimming, and the toe in minor adjustmenrt done....With the steering wheel and steering box centered and locked.

With the wheel turned all right, right wheel touches a bump on the lower arm.

With the wheel turned all left, left wheel is 1/2 + or - from the bump on the lower arm.

I cannot really see what is stopping it. For what is worth, this looks fairly new from the previous owner (now deceased).

Go thru the list above
Does both sides have approx the same shimming
Are the distances adjusted on the tierods basically even?
When the wheels are centered, is the steering wheel centered, and also the pitman?
Is there same turns from center to each lock?
Do the indicators turn on and auto turn off correct each side?

It takes about 5 mins to pull the steering wheel...use a puller
10 mins to pull the rag joint...and do this from inside the car

First guys, thanks for your patience. Newbie here.


Does both sides have approx the same shimming (I dont see shims but bumps, Yes?) Not sure what a shim is or where it is but I have photos...?
Are the distances adjusted on the tierods basically even? (Yes)
When the wheels are centered, is the steering wheel centered, and also the pitman? (Yes I included photos.)
Is there same turns from center to each lock? (NO. Left turn has 1/8 -1/4 less from center)
Do the indicators turn on and auto turn off correct each side? (Yes)

Please look at the photos I put on today. They old owner put on new steering and the left A arm bump is what stops the wheel from turning further left. On the right wheel, it does not touch the A arm bump.

thanks so much for your help!

Pat, I looked at your pics and only noticed two things. The tie rod on the left side is almost out of threaded adjustment, maybe even butting together inside the sleeve. that is uncommon for them to be turned in that far. the other thing I noticed is NO pics of other side!

The shims Steptoe is talking about are on the upper control arm where it is attached to frame. I think he looking for a bent frame as evidenced by a large difference in the shim packs from left side to right side.

Jeff

The shims Steptoe is talking about are on the upper control arm where it is attached to frame.
Thats them
I think he looking for a bent frame as evidenced by a large difference in the shim packs from left side to right side.
Could be, but 9 times out of 10 it is because the guys on the alignment machines know squat how to setup old school chevies....and Aussie holdens.

Is there same turns from center to each lock? (NO. Left turn has 1/8 -1/4 less from center)
Thien indicates that the pitman arm has been forced on the wrong splines

With steering wheel straight, indicators turn on and off correct when returnibf wheel to center, from streering wheel down to the steering shaft the pitman is on is fine.

Jeff you mean pic 333? yeah that doesnt look right...actually looks bloody dangerous

Try this -- leave the Pitman arm connected to the steering box, but disconnect the drag link. Then turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and check/note how far the pitman arm rotates on the steering box (maybe take a pic). Do the same thing to the right and check/note again. You want the pitman arm to be centered in the overall travel and pointing straight ahead for a normal/wheels straight condition.

By disconnecting the drag link, you'll let the steering box go through it's full range of travel and will hit the steering stops inside the steering box rather than hitting the steering stops on the lower control arm(s).

Most likely, the pitman arm is off a notch and not centered, so you're hitting the steering stops inside the box before you get to full left-hand travel. If so, just pull the pitman arm, center the steering box in it's overall travel, and re-attatch pitman arm so it's pointing straight ahead. If you do change the pitman arm position, definitely check the splines on the pitman/steering gear while you have it off and you'll probably need an alignment to get the steering wheel centered again.

Good advice above. I'm sure the pitman was out of position when the center-link was installed (and the tie rods, etc.).

You need to re-center the the pitman. Also, take the steering wheel shroud off the steering wheel and make sure your steering wheel is correctly aligned (there's two alignment marks for this purpose). Most old cars I've bought had mis-aligned steering wheels so that when the pitman was correctly positioned, the top of steering wheel wasn't in the 12 o'clock position. This could be complicating your issue.

Good luck!

Taking steering wheel off tonight. I posted shimming pics. You may be right on this shimming issue.

Regarless of the arm/pitman issues, the drivers wheel all left stops at the lower control arm bump and there is no way its going through the arm to move further with or without more arm. Maybe shimmed with everything off kilter to start? If shimming looks OK I will start tearing off the pitman arm and wheel. Great ideas I would never thought of.

Does the seating on the pitman look correct or pounded into place?

Many thanks - you all are life (and knuckle) savers!

I'm confused -- you said previously that the left wheel was not hitting the steering stop (bump) at full left travel:

With the wheel turned all right, right wheel touches a bump on the lower arm.

With the wheel turned all left, left wheel is 1/2 + or - from the bump on the lower arm.


Then you said that it is hitting the steering stop (?):

Regarless of the arm/pitman issues, the drivers wheel all left stops at the lower control arm bump and there is no way its going through the arm to move further with or without more arm.

I was thinking that you weren't getting to the steering stop on the control arm because you were hitting the internal stops in the steering box first. If you ARE getting to the steering stops on the control arm already, then I agree, no manner of messing with the pitman, idler, drag link, etc will increase the steering range. Be aware that there is a little more travel available with the car on the ground compared to being up on jacks since the LCA will swing up and move the steering stop out a bit from the knuckle.

If the steering will get all the way to the stop on the LCA on a left turn and you still have a lack of steering range, something may be very, um, "special" with you car....

You are correct. Reverse that. Wheel all left, left wheel touches lower control arm bump. Wheel all right, right wheel still has 1/2 inch or so.

The car is shimmed quite a bit in the new pics, now that I know what a shim is. Perhaps this has created the "special" characteristics?

Also, steering wheel was off center. I pulled it, retapped the stripped pin, recentered with pitman arm strait under the car. At least now it has equal radius as far as the steering wheel is concerned.

Thanks so much for your help.