I need to know how to properly run the wires for a Ford type solenoid. I am having problems with heat soak and would like to move the solenoid away form the headers.

hey buy the hotstart kit for chevy's which is a remote mount solenoid, and it has all wires and instructions, i got one and was 20 bucks well worth it, summit and jegs has them as well as your local speed shop
Jake

http://www.chevelles.com/techref/tecref4.html

You can't move the solenoid away from the headers, it's part of the starter. You can add a relay to the solenoid control circuit that will assure maximum current available to operate the solenoid. Here's a picture of the hookup, which uses a relay and 2 lengths of 12 gauge wire: http://personal.riverusers.com/~mcphelps/external.jpg

Try this site out! Mark has alot of great products and was one of the originator's of producing kits to use a ford soleniod to cure the Hot Start problems.
http://www.MadElectrical.com



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TONY
67 CAMARO R/S CLONE, 355/turbo 350, 200hp NOS,12 bolt,etc...

Before you go through the trouble of adding the Ford style solenoid I'd make sure that there are no other problems with your starting system. I'm not doubting your "heat soak" diagnosis here I'd just hate to see you go through all the trouble and still have a problem.

I say this because I once had a car with a 10:1 355 that had problems starting and it turned out that the stock GM starter design (LG4 305 starter) was just not strong enough (I had replaced like a half dozen starters, added a heat shield, and even tried the Ford solenoid trick). Then I switched to a High Torque mini starter and never had any more trouble at all. I gained some header clearance too.

[This message has been edited by Eric68 (edited 10-04-2002).]

I have to say I have never experienced hot start problems whether it was with my stock starter or new mini. I also have high compression and headers but have ensured all connections are good, etc.

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Rick Dorion
69 RS Conv,355,Autogear M22,4.10's and I don't worry about stone chips ( yet ).

I agree with Eric. Switch to a mini-starter. I bought one from Tommy Johnson Jr.'s wharehouse for $100. Bolted it right on and it works great. Starts my 468 under any conditions. I'll never run a factory style starter again.

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68 468 700R4, and here it is;
mutert23 (http://home.earthlink.net/~mutert23/)

Yes, I agree with you guys about the mini-starter. The problems is that when I attempt to start the car it makes a very harsh noise(already have new flywheel)and I am breaking the nose.I installed a new starter with shims and it solved the problem temporarily. Now I have the same problem.I was told that I might need the Factory bracket that bolts form the back of the starter to block.
What do you guys think is the problem?

What kind of engine is this? Big cid? High compression? I wouldn't think that bracket would help much. People run without it all the time. But maybe it would. I still say get the mini-starter, http://www.camaros.net/forum/wink.gif .

What kind of harsh noise? I had to shim mine with a 1/32" shim. With 1/64, about every 5th or 6th start, it would 'scream' because it wasn't engaging the flywheel. The original starters are heavy and I think the rear brace is helpful. Do you have correct/good bolts so the starter isn't cocking? There alot of torque acting on it.

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Rick Dorion
69 RS Conv,355,Autogear M22,4.10's and I don't worry about stone chips ( yet ).

Well guys I checked the flywheels bolts and they were loose. Of course I tightened them.
The car started up fine. Then the same problem. Put the battery charger on for a little while and it started fine. I have a trunk mounted battery and I believe I am not getting enough juice to the battery or not enough juice to the starter.
Anyone ever have this problem?

Are the teeth on the starter still good? They can wear pretty fast when the clearances aren't right. I'm running the cheap $40 Summit battery relocation kit with only 4 guage cables, and mine has never had a problem.
http://www.tommyjohnsonjr.com/bs/

New battery cables help sometimes - the wire strands can break near the ends and that reduces capacity of the cable and drops voltage when you turn the key. But it sounds like an alignment problem to me - especially if it is breaking the nose off the starter.

Big guy I was having the same problem. I have not had a chance to drive it much so I dont know. I thought I had fixed it but over the weekend I thought I head the prob coming back. Trunk mount batt 1000 cca #1 wire. 13.4:1 comp. I broke 4 new starters and now went with a Mini oe starter. I hate to put another starter in if it will give me the bsame problems.

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67 prostreet BB Camaro The Combat Rat
80 z28 Camaro 355ci
71 BB SS Chevelle (clone)
2002 35th anniv SS Z28 conv.

Hey Big guy. An idea that makes more and more sense the more I think about it. I am going to finally install the starter brace. Consider this the starters ALWAYS sound good when first installed. after repeated starts the sound worse then eventually break. Look at your new ring gear I bet you will see slightly more wear on the leading end. It is possible that this is from the starter starting to twist from engagement(the noise!) and then the break follows. What do you think?

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67 prostreet BB Camaro The Combat Rat
80 z28 Camaro 355ci
71 BB SS Chevelle (clone)
2002 35th anniv SS Z28 conv.