well i've come to the conclusion that solids are better for top and bottom end HP and torque, so when i build my engine i would like to be able to use one if possible. i dont drive a whole lot, but i make at least one trip a day which is about 3 miles to and back, i doubt this is what many would consider a daily driver (beater) but i just dont drive alot.
anyway to the question at hand, is this possible. i realise i'll have to adjust lash alot, but how much? will the lifters and cam wear out if i use it daily?
so far my engine plans are a 355, 9.72:1 compression, Dart iron eagle heads (200 or 215) and i've been messin' around with difference cam ideas for a while (if you guys have been fallowing my posts http://www.camaros.net/forum/biggrin.gif )

and a Victor Jr. intake and a holley 750 DP.

I have a solid lifter and drive as much as possible. I check it every 2000 miles and make slight adjustments. It's really not difficult or a pain ( to me ). I like them

------------------
Rick Dorion
69 RS Conv,355,M20,4.10's and I don't worry about stone chips.

I run a solid lifter too. No problems. I check lash ~3000 miles. The solid allows for more lift (far a given duration) vs a hydrualic. Could always go roller too.

Miles

------------------
1988 427 BBC Camaro
(1/4 mile) 12.18 @ 113 (1.72 60') 10/99
(1/8 mile) 7.76 @ 94 (1.72 60') 10/01

I currently have new series 3 carriers and new 4.10 gear ratios for sale for the Borg Warner 9 bolt diff. Email me for more info.
http://www.koolmeister.com

If you're only gonna' drive three miles a day, your gonna kill the whole engine a little at a time.

As a bad example:

My mom had this crappy little 1980 Monza w/ a 151 (THE IRON DUKE R.I.P.). She drove it 2 miles to work and two miles home every day. After 20K miles it completely wiped out the cam and lifters.

Most engine wear happens at startup. The cam/lifters and pistons wear the most since they are not pressure lubricated.

You really need to warm the engine up so that all your clearances come into spec and the oil flows as intended.

I don't think a mechanical cam will be any worse in this application than a hydraulic. It might actually be better! I would definitely run synthetic oil and take the long way to work and back! http://www.camaros.net/forum/smile.gif

To answer your real question, I've run a lot of mechanical cams on the street and how often you have to re-lash depends on several different factors:

How radical the profile
How many miles you drive
What components you use in your valvetrain (wear)
What type of locks you have on your rockers

I had one very radical Crane cam in a car that I drove 100 miles/day and I had to lash the valves, change the oil and replace the plugs in the car every two or three weeks to keep it tip top!

I've also had a couple of Toyota trucks with mechanical cams that I only needed to adjust the valves on about every 150K miles or so!!

Did I answer your question??

I'll bet pdq67 has something to add??

------------------
Paul D.

-----------------------
68RS, 331, 10.5:1, 4spd, 3.90 9", lowered, 245-45-16's all 'round

Good point on short driving wear and tear. This is a very good reason why you should do some homework on oil restrictors, and making sure your system (oil) is adequate enough to get lube to bottom end of the motor. I have a solid in a 406, going to the track tonight for the 1st time. It's a Lunati and I would consider it very streetable. Valve lash is not very often, and they really don't change much @ all. I would ALWAYS choose solid over hydralic, if roller (costs) out of question. 2 cents from Arizona...

Hey CamaroNOTcamero

What part of NJ? Girlfriend is from Lawrenceville (spelling). Just curious, cold there right now?

I always check mine before I race at the track, but they seldom need any significant adjustment. I've heard others say they check theirs when they change the oil.

This key is to use high quality valve train parts - good pushrods, good rocker arms, locking adjustment nuts, etc. You only have to adjust them to make up for wear, so if you have to adjust too often then there is a problem (like a cheap part wearing out - I learned this the hard way)

ps. I've heard several different knowledgeable people say that you should NOT use any type of oil restrictor for a street driven vehicle.

Good luck!

Eric

Back in days of yore, all cars had solid lifters in them and then the car makers decided that people really didn't like to tune their cars every 5,000 or so miles miles, so they went to hydraulics. (Thats one reason why the old V-Dub Beatles used to have head problems, b/c people wouldn't set the valves every 4000 to 5000 miles!)

Chevy was (I think) 100 percent solid lifter up until 1956, but I may be wrong.

I do know that you are doing your engine more harm then good by not running it long enough to heat it up and get the "crud" out of the oil. And solids will definitely let you wring it out every once in a while!! IMHO. pdq67

Oil restrisyors should only be used on solid roller applicatins and even then SHOULD NOT be run on a street engine/car. I call several cam manufacturers and they all stated the same thing (do not do it). Flat tappet cams (nor hyd. rollers) should never be used with oil restrictors. As far as setting/checking lash it really doesn't take long and is not difficult to do. Just check them when you do an oil change and make any adjustments if needed (more than likely they will still be fine). Good components help too as well as good locking nuts.

Royce

------------------
70 Camaro 383ci
69 Camaro 385ci
2000 GMC Z71
Link to my 70

http://profiles.yahoo.com/camaroman7d

I was a little apprehensive before I installed my first solid, but have never regretted it.

Just do it, you'll love it.

i warm up my car in the mourings for about 15-20 mins, at the very least 10. so the general consensus is good http://www.camaros.net/forum/biggrin.gif i meant at minimal i'll be driving 2-3 miles a day, but probably more like 10-20. i dont do alot of driving but i have to go to school weekdays http://www.camaros.net/forum/frown.gif i treat the engine i have in there now pretty well, (expensive oil and changes every 3k, along with warming it up) after i spend almost $4 grand on the next one i'll probably change the oil and check the lash every 2k miles.
i'm going to be using a Comp 282S solid 236 duration at .050" and .495" lift. that seems to me like a pretty mild solid. i'm going to use comp lifters, comp hardened pushrods, roller rockers (probably harland sharp) Dart or Manley stainless valves, and comp 7 degree locks and retainers. ARP rocker studs.
Crucibal, i'm in Mercer county, pretty close to lawrencville(i dont know how to spell it ethier). thanks for the advice.
Thanks guys, i appreciate it, before talking to you guys and this forum i was basically scared away from solids by people who said you have to adjust lash every weekend and say that they wear out fast and so on and so forth.

I ran one for years with no problems. I did run restrictors with non roller solid cams on race only cars with no problems. The only problems you will have is at idle. All of mine usually idled above 2000rpm and there was still plenty of oil to the lifters at that rpm.

what should i expect that 282S solid to idle at? about 1200?

Mine idles at 900 RPM in park and 750 in drive. Very good vacuum at idle (14-15" in park, 11-12" drive), and a slight lope. This is not a real radical idling cam, so you can idle it a little lower and not have to worry about it stalling.

------------------
68 Camaro, 383 small block with TH350 trans. 11.98's at 111mph and never trailered.

Camaronotcamero...i warm up my car in the mourings for about 15-20 mins, at the very least 10.

Actually the best way to warm up your motor is to start it and drive it immediatly.
Do so conservativly until the motor comes up to temp.
You will notice that the temp will come up quicker too.
Your just wasting gas and putting neadless wear on the motor by letting it idle like that .




------------------
68 biscayne 4060lbs
468 iron oval port 10.25-1 TH400 Flowmasters&radials
11.85 ET @ 113.7 MPH

nice, thats a good low idle.
alright, well i usually just start it up, and let it warm up until i get out to the car, it takes about 15min at the most, maybe i'll start it up later.

I adjust mine about once a Summer. Key to making them work is....get yourself a good set of Chevy or Summit new rocker nuts and throw'em as far as you can. They make a neat splash in the river. Now go get a good set of polylocks and ARP rocker studs that are already machined true and flat on the top. With that set up I've never adjusted my small blocks more than twice a Summer, usually only once at the start of the good weather. All I run is solid cams. Trick is to start out with a good true flat top on the stud. Actually years ago I had pretty good luck with the stock rocker nuts, but I replaced them as they started to lose their preload torque.

i'm planning on putting on Comp pro magnum roller rockers, i'm pretty sure they have a posi stop. if thats the key to it, then i should be good to go. thanks.