Hi,
I am considering buying the following Camaro. The owner is asking $9.5K for it, but I am going to offer $8.5K.
It needs some obvious body work, but the car runs great and the interior is in decent condition.
The leak over the windshield means that I most likely will have some rust in the floorboard to replace.
Any thoughts?

I could be totally wrong but I thougt the ss camaro was a 350 or 396. Is this car a ss clone or did they make ss 327 cars? If it is a clone will that change how much you are going to offer? mark

I could be totally wrong but I thougt the ss camaro was a 350 or 396. Is this car a ss clone or did they make ss 327 cars? If it is a clone will that change how much you are going to offer? markYou're not wrong. There is no such thing as a Camaro SS 327.

I'm sure there is some not so obvious bodywork needed as well. I'd start lower then 8.5K.

See, thats what I get for trying to post too fast. I am looking at two cars and the other was an SS, not this one. And I'm a free member, so I can't upload the photos of the other one until I become a paying member.
Thanks for pointing that out.

Ok now you are just confusing me. How can you not upload photos when you have photos on this car. I also guess that I would start quite a bit lower than $8500.

Ok now you are just confusing me. How can you not upload photos when you have photos on this car. I also guess that I would start quite a bit lower than $8500.
I'm only allowed a certain amount of space for attachments as a free member. Those three photos ate up pretty much all of that space.
And thanks for the suggestion on pricing.

Put your pictures on a free account such as photobucket. You can then post as many pictures as you want by just using a link to that picture on photobucket. Just like this one...

http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii152/tjs69_photos/69%20Camaro/000_0613.jpg

http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/uu228/Injunjoe13/ARearSeat.jpg
http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/uu228/Injunjoe13/DoorPanelRust.jpg
http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/uu228/Injunjoe13/DriversDoorRoof.jpg
http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/uu228/Injunjoe13/DriversSeatRip.jpg
http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/uu228/Injunjoe13/Engine1.jpg
http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/uu228/Injunjoe13/Engine2.jpg
http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/uu228/Injunjoe13/Front.jpg
http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/uu228/Injunjoe13/GearShifter.jpg
http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/uu228/Injunjoe13/Interior1.jpg
http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/uu228/Injunjoe13/InteriorRoof.jpg

http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/uu228/Injunjoe13/LeftRoof.jpg
http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/uu228/Injunjoe13/RightFrontHood.jpg
http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/uu228/Injunjoe13/RightRoof.jpg
http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/uu228/Injunjoe13/Trunk1.jpg
http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/uu228/Injunjoe13/Trunk2.jpg

Uggh. With the market the way it is, the seller is going to be very lucky to get $4K for that car. There is a lot of work there, and what is not rusty looks otherwise abused or just junk. No way he's getting $9K plus for that car now. Unless it comes with $5K in a gym bag in the trunk.

Thanks for the honest reply, thats what I was hoping to get here.
In case anyone else wants to weigh in, here are some of the specifics:
1968 Camaro with original 327ci V8.
Two speed powerglide transmission and air conditioning (doesn't work, but original feature).
The car starts, runs and drives excellent.
Aftermarket intake and Holley Carb.
Driver's and passenger's seat have rips. The back seat is in very good shape.
Headliner will need to be replaced.

I'm with Eric on this one. This car needs lots of work and isn't that special to begin with. You can do better, Patrick, for the same money. Take your $8.5k and look for a better deal.

IMO that car here in Texas would sell for the $9,500

$4K? Seriously? You can't buy a roller in pieces for $4k here on the west coast. If you don't want to pay more than $8500, offer him $7500 and see if he'll meet you halfway.

FWIW, on the west coast that car might go for more than $10k.

$4K? Seriously? You can't buy a roller in pieces for $4k here on the west coast. If you don't want to pay more than $8500, offer him $7500 and see if he'll meet you halfway.

FWIW, on the west coast that car might go for more than $10k.
I think that local markets might be driving some of the responses here?
I got the car for $7750 after talking to some local auto and collision shops. I asked them to list everything that needs replacing on it, tried to create cost estimate, added a nice cushion for unexpected things, and still came out a little under what I saw decent ones selling for.
Of course, Eric might be right and this could turn out to be one of those "learning experiences." But I want to really learn how to take a car apart and put it back together. And thanks to these Michigan winters, I'll have a lot of time to spend on it.

Good luck, and welcome to the "club."

hope you wanted to learn to weld (it's not hard) :);)

Good luck, and welcome to the "club."

hope you wanted to learn to weld (it's not hard) :);)
I can get most of the parts at Aco, right?





:D
Thanks, and I actually am looking forward to taking the time to do this right.

I think that local markets might be driving some of the responses here?
I got the car for $7750 after talking to some local auto and collision shops. I asked them to list everything that needs replacing on it, tried to create cost estimate, added a nice cushion for unexpected things, and still came out a little under what I saw decent ones selling for.
Of course, Eric might be right and this could turn out to be one of those "learning experiences." But I want to really learn how to take a car apart and put it back together. And thanks to these Michigan winters, I'll have a lot of time to spend on it.$7750 is a good buy in my book.

Pick up a 68 factory assembly manual and a good catalog like Classic Industries to see what you'll need to put it back together. Shop around for parts though, some companies have better prices than others.

And fwiw here are a couple examples of "rollers" here on the west coast. (please note the condition and prices.)

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/1442138410.html
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/1437049720.html

Good luck with your project.

well just as a prespective i bought this 68 with original numbers 327 a muncie 4 speed (was originally a power glide) and very minimal if any rust, interior needs headliner and carpet, 3:08 10 bolt posi for 9200. if the maroon one was for sale local to me i would either offer 4000 as it needs major body work ( usually if you see rust there is twice as much you dont see!!) or i would walk away!! nicer cars are out there for that kinda cash you just have to be patient and not buy the first one you see!! JMHO
heres what i got for 9200 in illinois
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a351/Tonystoys123/Picture433.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a351/Tonystoys123/Picture424.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a351/Tonystoys123/parts%204%20sale/Picture429.jpg
and with some elbow grease a wire wheel and some paint and a rebuilt motor it can look like this!
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a351/Tonystoys123/parts%204%20sale/Picture1054.jpg

It looks like we have an east coast / west coast difference of opinion on this car!

As a former rust belt dweller, I can tell you that what looks like a little rust on that car means alot of metal replacement. Thats the kind of deep rust that comes apart like shale, and the deeper you dig, the more you find.

I would personally rather have a solid roller than a need everything driver. But as someone said, it's a learning experience and you can enjoy the driver car right away. Just don't get caried away trying to make it perfect, you will be upside down in a hurry.

Uggh. With the market the way it is, the seller is going to be very lucky to get $4K for that car. There is a lot of work there, and what is not rusty looks otherwise abused or just junk. No way he's getting $9K plus for that car now. Unless it comes with $5K in a gym bag in the trunk.

Yup. I don't see a car the way it appears. Does not matter if it's all together. I see a car with no roof skin, no qrts, no front clip, a gutted interior with bare seat frames except the rear seat. And add a supplement for what's probably hiding sheetmetal wise. How's the glass? Deck lid and doors rust free? I'll bet the right inner fender is toast. Lets not forget the floors. And how's it going to look when the frt and rear glass is pulled? Wiring harness uncut and supple, or are the starter wires like dry spagetti? And I'm sure it needs nothing mechanically at all..... Sure, I'm all over that for $7500, where's my wallet.

That's what I was getting at... the Cali and Texas guys don't see cars quite that rusty for sale, so any market comparison isn't really valid.

Anytime the rust is in the door/quarter jambs like that, and the windows and trunk floor look like that? You're talking around $2K worth of repro sheetmetal alone for that car.

That's what I was getting at... the Cali and Texas guys don't see cars quite that rusty for sale, so any market comparison isn't really valid.

Anytime the rust is in the door/quarter jambs like that, and the windows and trunk floor look like that? You're talking around $2K worth of repro sheetmetal alone for that car.



x2 what he said!!

I live near Padre Island off the Gulf of Mexico, plenty of rust around here. I've done projects such as the one listed. Does this car have rust Hell Yes. Is it too far gone? No. It was just my opinion on price if it were around my area. The market comparison is based on availability along the Texas Gulf Coast. When a first gen Camaro comes up for sale locally you should see the price and condition. Wish we had more to choose from like your area. One thing for sure anywhere don't buy sight unseen.

One more thing: I grew up in Houston, so people who have never lived near the Gulf Coast don't realize that we have PLENTY of rust issues. Its just not from the salted roads like it is up north, but its also not as hidden like it is on cars up here.
But more importantly, I did not buy it sight unseen. I looked at it several times and drove it twice, once for nearly an hour. I also had a local auto shop check it out for any really expensive mechanical problems and they liked what they saw (at least for the price I was considering).
I also spent a good amount of time underneath it looking for bad rust problems (including the inner fenders which do have some rust) and while overall there is a good amount of rust to deal with, I think it is doable. I then took it to a local stripping company that performs media blasting that came highly recommended and got estimates.
In short: while I am definitely not a seasoned or experienced person in Camaro restorations, I did try to get a good idea of what needed to be done, what it might sell for when I am done, and what I can do myself. In the end, I decided that I should be able to recoup all or most of my expenses and learn a lot along the way. I looked around my area and like someone else already mentioned, rollers were going for $4500 pretty regularly. And since this one actually had an engine that worked, I thought it was a chance worth taking.
Some might not buy things to restore for turning a nice profit. And one day I'd like to try that. But this is my first venture and its simply to serve as a learning experiece (hopefully for the better).
But I have appreciated all of the input.

saving it from the boneyard i am all for it! there are so many out there that need saving.
repop bodys are nice but if you save just one thats just one more beatiful original piece
of the camaro legacy on the road!

Congratulations on the Camaro... A born with 327, air conditioning, the early 1968 deluxe N30 steering wheel and the console shifter are some indications you have a survivor. The build date on the trim tag may support what interior options it had. From the pictures, however, it looks like standard interior. Keep in mind the sheet metal that will need to be repaired or replaced. The rot inside of the windshield and rear window that creates the water leaks seems small but is a lot of metal detail.

I do not want to discourage you but once you start to take the paint off and disassemble the Camaro, you will find more and more $$$ surprises. From what I see, expect on having at least 200 hrs of metal work done on the car. Since it is running, use that to your advantage and get to know the car by hearing it as you drive it. For example, Since my vinyl top car was purchased inoperable, I am not able to know where the noises are. Only now am I starting to discover that I can encounter major noise issues like a rattling roof (maybe from the first owner furiously banging on the roof or walking on the roof). The body shop pointed out that the roof rattling will take some tightening and loosening to stop it but I would of otherwise overlooked this issue because the car is not running.