I am going to be painting the underside of my 68 shortly. I had floor pans put in it and I am finishing them off. Someone told me about a product sold by Eastwood Company called Extreme Chassis Black. I would assume to be correct, I would want to use the satin version. Has anyone else used this before? Do you recommend getting the kit with their primer? Would you recommend the kit with 2 quarts of paint plus the primer or should I go for the gallon and purchase primer separately? Most of my underside of the car is in DP90 2 part expoxy primer. The only areas that are not are the areas that I have been working on. Would it be correct to paint the underside of the car as well as the engine compartment including firewall, inner fenders, core support with the same paint? I also plan to paint the rear axle, springs, subframe, and suspension with the same. Is this correct?

I sprayed SEM Hotrod black HR010 Urethane on top of my epoxy primer. I painted underside, firewall, inner fenders, core support and misc parts ( hinges, latches, headlight brackets etc). This Urethane has a very nice satin look and being a 2 part paint is very durable. I would highly recommend the product. You will need 2 kits/quarts for the job. I can't comment about the Eastwood product

You are asking if it's correct. Well no it is not correct to paint all the components satin black. If this is not your concern then pull the trigger and shoot it. There is no need to reprime the epoxy, only if it's out of the window. In which case it needs another coat. Then topcoat with the paint of your choice. Epoxy can even be left as is for the underneath depending on one's objectives with the car. DPLF dries too flat compared to DP. Transtar epoxy has a nice satin sheen, is economical and has good performance.

http://www.67z28.com/finishes.htm

Note: DPLF Epoxy Primer may be recoated any time up to 1 week.
After 1 week, it must be cleaned, sanded and recleaned.
· Reapply 1 additional coat of DPLF Epoxy Primer.
· Allow 30 minutes dry time with DP402LF @ 70°F (21°C)
· Allow 60 minutes dry time with DP401LF @ 70°F (21°C) before applying additional
primer surfacers and/or topcoats.

http://corporateportal.ppg.com/ppg/

Jim, wanna see correct original? At least on a 69?

My buddy used rust encapsulater from Eastwood and it looks great on his Chevelle he is into all the keep it stock look.He said this is almost factory.

Well Jim, ya threw a "fly in the ointment" when ya said correct:wacko:

Here's pix of a correct '68 underbelly....

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=153932&highlight=dana

That said, I've used Eastwoods satin chassis black (not the extreme yet) with good results. Think it's close to bein correct for firewall, inner fenders, rad support, etc. If ya really want to get in good with the "correct police", better do your homework....it's beyond me :)

Well, I guess I have a lot to chew on. I guess this is another decision I have to make with the car. I can appreciate the pictures you show of the untouched original with the overspray. I guess I do not want to be that original. I would rather have something that looks good than something that original. I guess the same goes for the factory overspray down the firewall and the overspray from the stripes going through the cowl vents on to the cowl. I would rather it look nice in that case rather than original. Since the underside of the car has had floor pans and is not original, would you suggest just using the Eastwood chassis paint on all of it?

"I would rather have something that looks good than something that original"

LOL, sorry to quote ya here , but I agree 100 %. It's a matter of personal preference so do as you like. As I mentioned, I've never used the updated extreme chassis black. I'm thinkin the original satin formula may be a bit glossy for the underside, imo. I think it's a little glossier than DP 90. To me, DP90 would be ideal for floor pans. Again, it's just a matter of personal preference.

Where would I buy this paint and do you remember how much it was? Do you think I would need to reprime my dp 90 after scuffing it up before I use this paint?

Would "POR-15 Semi-Gloss Black" or "POR-15 Black" be correct for the firewall / underside?
http://www.por15.com/POR-15/productinfo/1GB/

Vincent, I dunno, no experience with POR 15 satin black. I imagine it'd be close ???

Jim, Satin Extreme Chassis Black is around $40/qt...ready to spray (already reduced)...not cheap ! It's available here http://www.eastwood.com/ , type in 11176ZP on a seach.

Yep, the existing DP should be scuffed and another coat applied before any other top coats. As said, if it were me and I had a couple full coats of DP on the floorboards, I'd call it good....I'd think it would look good and the DP provides excellant rust protection.

I like GM BLACK RECONDITIONING PAINT
I could only find it on ebay
I used it on my car and am very pleased with the look and the ease of application.