I'm looking to remove the pinchwell molding on my '68 and install a replacement with the top on.

- Am I asking for trouble???

- If it can be done, should it be done with the top up or down??

Thanks!
Dan

Dan, I did mine with the top unbolted from the car (tack strips). It is a pain no matter how you do it. I guess you would have to have the top down halfway down. I would recomend polishing the original trim before using repro ones. I was able to remove mine, polish them and reinstall them (after painting) with out bending or scratching anything. You do need to protect the paint near (but not under!) the trim as you are working the trim on to the clips it can hit the paint on the ends. Luck!

what is the best way to install the clips and the moldings. mine is completely off the car and I need to install it. are there screws that are supposed to go on the clips for a '67? It looks like I can slide the clips in the molding and then just press it on the rear of the car and make sure that the ends of the molding goes into the window trim felts...

would that be right or close anyway?

Brandan, after much searching, this is what I did. When I pulled the molding off for the first time since the car left the factory, there was aluminum foil type tape wrapped around the pinchweld where the clips go. I think it was put on to protect the paint and help the clips stay on. I replaced the tape. The clips then go on the body pinch weld. then the molding halves are put together and pushed down onto the clips. The way the clips work is there are points that stick outward when they are installed. the trim then is pushed down to engage those points. most times the points engage fine on the straight areas, but have trouble at the curves. it will take some work. I had to pry the clips up with a flat blade while hitting the top inside edge with a protected plast dead blow hammer (don't hit the flat top or it will dent!). It was a pain, but I got it down flush.

Kevin
From what I understand, there's a few screws helping to hold down the pinchwell. Can you tell me how many screws there are and about where they are located? Can I get to those screws with the top half way down - as you suggested?? The what do I do, just kind of pry it off by hand - pop it off the clips?

Thanks!!

Dan good question and I am interested to find out that answer to.:thumbsup: Kevin, so if I am following correctly you put the clips on the pinchweld (car) FIRST and then the assembled molding then clips over the top? That is how I am reading it....:confused:

I was test fitting the molding and it looked like if I slide the clips in the molding and then pressed it on it would be easier but that might not be the correct way.

Dan I am sorry if this is a thread creap but I think that we are in the same boat in the area of pinchweld moldings...... :beers:

Brandan

Brandon

Any related questions are welcome. I need all the info I can get

Thanks for your PM, it really helped. Let's see if there is more action on this thread!!!! I have a pretty good idea of how it should go but I have to finish polishing the trim before I re-attach it. I will try to post pics of installing it.

Brandan-

You guys are double teaming me :) I did not take any pics of the process, I hate to stop and take the pics :D

Yes there are screws (5 if I remember right), on each end, one on each curve and on off center near the joint. Not sure if you can get them out with the top tack strips bolted in (but I doubt it). Taking the tack strips off is no big deal, I would recommend it.

Take back seat out, peel well liner away from seat support (it is contacted cemented on). Then hold up well liner and there are something like 12 or 13 lag screws that hold the tack strips to the body. Remove them all and top will will come away from the pinch weld. The top itself is stapled to the tack strips, so you wont hurt anything just unbolting it. The top, window and well liner should stay stapled to the tack strips. Now is a good time to inspect and clean the plastic drip tray. It is very fragile and only remove if it is absolutely nessesary! On a scale of install difficulty 1-10, I would rate the pinchwell molding an 8 and the plastic drip tray a 12!

Now that the top is clear from the car (it just lays in the well about 12 inches away at the rear and 3-4 inches on the sides), remove the 5 or so screws. Then put the top down (make sure loose top does not pinch in the frame). Then just pull off (45 degree angle up) the molding. I cannot remember if I needed to pry it off, but I was getting a new paint job and did not have worry. The clips will come up with the molding, no problem.

Then re-install is what I said, clips go on the car body first! trust me on this. then you put the two halves together and lay the molding on the clips, then starting from the curve, clip the molding in before doing the middle and the ends (45 degree downward pressure).

It is tough to explain because the molding goes on the pinch weld on an angle and if you put the middle in first you will have trouble in the corners. I am pretty sure I centered the trim and snugged the corners in and then worked out to the center and ends. I think I did both corners first before pushing the middle and ends in.

I spent many hours over a couple a days to try this and it did take a couple of tries to get it. That is why I am having trouble remembering which one was successful.

The end screws also holds the QTR fuzzies on, so make sure you have the fuzzie on first before doing the screw. The molding tab goes under the fuzzie, but the fuzzie bead fits in the molding end. This is a pain too, which I had to curse at to get correct. I had new qtrs, so I had to drill a new hole :mad:, but if your hole is intact it should be easier.

Kevin
Great explanation. The thing that worries me is messing with the top to any degree. I know nothing about how it's put together and/or attched. It's all a mystery to me. I was hoping that I could do it all with the top intact. Guess not.

Thanks very much.

Dan, I would recommend buying the Fisher body service manual. I refer to the convertible chapter a lot!

http://www.rickscamaros.com/product.asp?pf%5Fid=FBM%2D69&dept%5Fid=3478

Dan is your top still on the car or is it off? I will also have to go check the FBM. Been pretty busy lately............

Top is on. Still not sure if I'm going to tackle it. I'm not sure that I want reveal moldings that much.

Glad I found this post! I have rust behind the rear window, and I'm sure it goes under this molding, so I've been looking into how to remove it. Doesn't sound like much fun, but I guess it needs to be done. My top is all ripped up anyhow, so I'm not worried about damaging it. I was going to get a new top installed very soon, but after reading this I guess it makes sense to make sure the rust is repaired first.

Mike
Taking it off is easier than putting it back on. Trust me on this...

Dan, did you put yours back on?

I did. As you said, It was a bear. I had a buddy help me. After putting the molding on the pichweld, we basically pulled like crazy towards the back/side of the car; one of us of either side of each clip. Some went in fine - some needed a little "persuading". I put some dawn dish soap on the tabs of each clip to help the molding slide over the prongs. That seemed to help.

Putting the screws back in gave me the added extra bonus of even more fun!!! I still had the top off the tack strips but there's just not lots of room to work there. I ended up using a right angle screw driver to get some of the screws in. It actually sits tighter now than the one that was on there. Probably because it only had 6 clips holding it on rather than the 10 it has now.

Not a project I want to do again. Thanks for the help Kevin. Couldn't have done it with out you!

I'm working on the door and quarter glass now (you may have seen a few posts I put up today). New rollers when needed, some cleaning and greasing of the tracks etc etc. I figure as long as I have everything off to put the reveals on, I might as well go through everything and see what needs to be done in that regard.

Mike
Taking it off is easier than putting it back on. Trust me on this...

Yep. But I have no choice. I have to fix the rust, and I need a new roof anyway.

I think I'm going to take the plunge and try to replace the roof myself. Doing this stuff is part of the reason I bought the car, after all. If I do, I'll try to take a bunch of pics and write either a tutorial or comedy of errors.

I think I'm going to take the plunge and try to replace the roof myself. Doing this stuff is part of the reason I bought the car, after all. If I do, I'll try to take a bunch of pics and write either a tutorial or comedy of errors.

Been there too. Replacing a vert top is not hard, just tedious. Get the fisher body manual, a GOOD stapler, air or electric. And be prepared for a couple of weekends work, you have to let it rest to see if any wrinkles come out in the sun. I strongly suggest cleaning the top frame and painting it before the top, lube the joints and replace the top pads.

Been there too. Replacing a vert top is not hard, just tedious. Get the fisher body manual, a GOOD stapler, air or electric. And be prepared for a couple of weekends work, you have to let it rest to see if any wrinkles come out in the sun. I strongly suggest cleaning the top frame and painting it before the top, lube the joints and replace the top pads.

Checking/rehabbing the frame is one of the reasons I want to do it myself. Gonna paint it and whatnot like you're saying.

One thing I've noticed is that, when my top is almost all the way down, the folded arms of the top do not fall outside of the interior trim piece that's beside the rear seat like it's supposed to. When it touches the tops of those pieces, I have to get out of the car, give a yank to each side to put it beside those interior pieces like it's supposed to be, then get in the car and lower the top the last inch or so. I'm sure that's a problem but not sure how to diagnose it. That's something else I'd like to figure out while replacing the top.

Man, I've been putting this job until the end. I have messed with it several times to come back to it later. I too have been dumbfounded with the screws. I suppose it holds the clips from sliding around? I had one to remove and discovered this, but couldn't figure the best way to put them back. Don't they screw from up underneath? Been wondering about this one for awhile

Dwayne

The screws and the clips don't have anything to do with one another. In order words, they don't secure the clips. The clips slide on the pinchweld very tight. You won't need screws to hold them on trust me.

The screws go into the molding at more of less of an angle. And yes, they "sort of" screw up from underneath. You can feel around under the molding, near the base of the top, and get an idea as to where they are and how they installed. Without taking off the tack strips, I'm not sure how you would ever get the screws out. There's just no room to work. Even removing the tack strips doesn't make them truly 100% easily accessible because the top in that area will still be held up by the rain gutter to a certain extent. And you don't want to put too much pressure on that as it's 40 year old plastic. I used a combination of a short stubby screw driver, a right angle screwdriver and a small screw driver insert for my smallest ratchet to aid in screw removal and install.

Us guys with convertibles always have more issues to deal with than the guys with coupes. All part of the fun of top down driving I guess!

do the 'points' on the clips go to the outside of the car or on the inside?

i haven't tried to install my new repro stuff yet, but i looked at the clips this morning and it looks like they will slip on weither way.

Anyone have any pics they can email or post?

Rob

Points on the clips go up and towards the outside (towards trunk and fenders). Molding gets slipped on the back of the pinchweld and then you engage the points of the clips pushing (or pulling) the molding over them.

I don't envy you if you're using repo moldings. Mine was very tough to go on and it's original GM. I'm sure a repo piece would put up even more of a fight...

thanks dan, i may try to tackle it this weekend......... we'll see how it goes.

Rob

Checking/rehabbing the frame is one of the reasons I want to do it myself. Gonna paint it and whatnot like you're saying.

One thing I've noticed is that, when my top is almost all the way down, the folded arms of the top do not fall outside of the interior trim piece that's beside the rear seat like it's supposed to. When it touches the tops of those pieces, I have to get out of the car, give a yank to each side to put it beside those interior pieces like it's supposed to be, then get in the car and lower the top the last inch or so. I'm sure that's a problem but not sure how to diagnose it. That's something else I'd like to figure out while replacing the top.

Yes, I know this is an old thread. . . The folded arms on my top do exactly this as well. I was wondering how I could possible fix it, or if it is indicative that my frame is just plain worn out. Tips would be appreciated! I'm probably going to pay to have my top done, but I may just get brave and do it myself. I've had one estimate so far and it was $2,000 dollars! That did include replacing just about everything associated with the top (padding, etc.)