Here is the latest...the Magnum pushrods couldn't stand up to the spring pressure. We relashed the valves yesterday and some had loosened up pretty good. The motor has less than an hour of run time and the clatter from the valve train kept getting progressively worse, so we pulled the valve covers and checked the pushrods and they were definetly getting squashed on the ballends. Ordered a set of Comp Cams Hi-Tech push rods (next day air) that should cure the problem. The thing pulls like an Ox and I'm gonna get it right soon...stay tuned!

------------------
383, CAT 4340 forged crank, 11.3:1 SRP forged flattop pistons. 5.7" rods, CC Pro Magnum 1.6" Roller Rockers, Pete Jackson Gear Drive,
AFR 195s 64cc heads CNC'd, w/spring/valve upgrades, CC 294S, Edelbrock Air Gap, Demon 750DP, MSD Pro Billet Dist. MSD Digital 6+ Ignition, MSD Blaster3 coil, Hooker Super Comp 1.75" headers, 3"Xpipe, Dynomax Ultra Flows, M20, Eaton Posi 12 bolt 3.73 rear

I wouldn`t think you would have problems like that with just a solid F/T. I think you might have some other problems somewhere.
Is this a new cam? If so how did the break in go? Something don`t sound right.

------------------
78 Camaro hyd cam 406
TH350-3.23 gear
11.86 ET
116.7 MPH

Big Red, yes it is a new cam. In fact everything in the motor is new. Cam break in went fine. There were some slight wear marks on the inside of the valve cover where the rockers must have rubbed lightly, also the loosening of the valves may have caused it. I am putting on some taller valve cover gaskets. The springs AFR put on are bigger and stronger than the ones they normally come with, although I only required that they be good to .600 lift. I believe the seat pressure was the problem and don't want to chance it, therefore the Hi-Tech pushrods. I built this motor to be near bulletproof so I don't believe there is other problems. The valve cover contact could have something to do with it also, I imagine. We will also be double checking the guideplates to make sure everything is correct.

[This message has been edited by 69RS/SS350 (edited 01-16-2003).]

How many pushrods were damaged? any pattern? like intakes only ? I shudder to think you were hitting the valve covers ESPECIALLY during break in! Did you run without inners on the break in?
Just look around for any flecks of metal in the oil.

------------------
78 Camaro hyd cam 406
TH350-3.23 gear
11.86 ET
116.7 MPH

Seems that the ones that were damaged (and when I say damaged I mean that they were just starting to be out of round or in other words a little flattened on the ballends). The pattern was on the exhaust side. We have done the oil change and saw nothing to cause alarm. Enlighten me, I really appreciate it.

[This message has been edited by 69RS/SS350 (edited 01-16-2003).]

Check the rocker arm clearance between the rocker arm and the spring/retainer.

Exactly what pushrods are the Magnum pushrods you are talking about? Are they the Comp Cams Magnum pushrods (the $125 a set pushrods)? If so these are very good pushrods and I would think it would take a LOT to flatten them out.

If you are talking about the cheaper ones (like $30 a set) with pressed in ends that are ball shaped then yes, they are cheap and won't hold up to much more than a wimpy stock valve spring, especially if you hit the valve covers.

If you were hitting the valve covers you can probably gring a little material off either the valve cover or the rocker arm. It will probably take more than a taller gasket to fix.

I bet a lot of your valvetrain noise was from the rockers hitting the valve covers. I had this problm once and it was pretty loud.

Eric, the pushrods were like $40.00, so the cheap ones. I had already been thinking that the taller gaskets might not do the trick, so will check on that today. Thanks for the replies. Eric, I always look forward to yours.

Thanks - just make sure you watch valve lash afterwards. I'd follow Big Red's suggestion too (he knows his stuff), watch for any pattern --- that might indicate that there was "consequential damages" as a result of the rocker / pushrod problem. Especially if you find that one or more rockers won't stay adjusted after you get it all back together.

Make sure you let us all know how that puppy runs . . .

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by 69RS/SS350:
Thanks for the replies. Eric, I always look forward to yours.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

So, is the rest of us just chopped liver? http://www.camaros.net/forum/biggrin.gif Seriously though, Eric is right...the comp magnum pushrods are quite beefy and you would probably mangle the valve covers before hurting one of them.

Not good news...cam is wiped. Shop says the springs are too gnarly (nice time to get that info!). We haven't plucked it or taken it apart yet. Here is what happened...replaced the push rods with the Hi-Techs relashed the valves and checked all the guide plates, car ran fine and sounded good but when I took it out today and got on it a bit it wiped the cam. Rev limiter set at 6500 so I know that wasn't it. Shop thinks the big springs were just too much for the cam. Pushrods and rockers are fine (BTW we ground the rockers and know they weren't hitting the valve covers and the valve train noise was gone). I told AFR exactly which cam I was going to use. Shop says after we check everything and if we find the springs were too tough, that I should contest my credit card and buy new heads. My idea is different. I say go to a solid roller that will stand up to the springs. The car is not a daily driver, will see maybe 3-5 trips to the track a year, get driven on weekends and an occasional afternoon. It is a Show car that will probably see maybe 2500 miles a year. Please recommend a solid roller that will match my combo and application. I am pretty bummed but I know patience and some more $$ is gonna make me happy eventually. Sorry this is so long but I need to vent!

------------------
383, CAT 4340 forged crank, 11.3:1 SRP forged flattop pistons. 5.7" rods, CC Pro Magnum 1.6" Roller Rockers, Pete Jackson Gear Drive,
AFR 195s 64cc heads CNC'd, w/spring/valve upgrades, CC 294S, Edelbrock Air Gap, Demon 750DP, MSD Pro Billet Dist. MSD Digital 6+ Ignition, MSD Blaster3 coil, Hooker Super Comp 1.75" headers, 3"Xpipe, Dynomax Ultra Flows, M20, Eaton Posi 12 bolt 3.73 rear

[This message has been edited by 69RS/SS350 (edited 01-18-2003).]

sorry to hear about it. i'm glad to hear you are looking at a solid roller, now your talkin! i know a lot of the guy's on this site have heard all kinds of ugly stories about solid rollers, but that's what myself and several of my buddies run, all in cars that do get driven on the street frequently. so i speak from experience, get good parts and don't be afraid! also there are no more unsightly cam break in problems as with a f/t cam. one thing that concerns me about your current set up is the springs, if they were at all intended for a solid roller its no wonder they wiped out that cam. and if they were in fact the right spring for your f/t cam, then likely they are not quite enough for your solid roller. i don't know, but call afr and find out for sure what they are rated at (spring pressures, stacking height, etc.) and if they will take a solid roller, take the spring info to the cam manufacturer when you choose one, and use it in selecting a cam. it is extremely important that you match the cam to the springs. as for cam selection, i don't reccomend cams to people, i think it's a bad idea. i can tell you what i use, but this is really a decision you need to make. the best thing to do is just do some research (o.k., lots of research), compare your combo to others w/ a solid roller, and talk to a few cam manufacturers, and a good engine builder if you know any. that way you'll end up with a cam your happy with, not one someone thought you'd like. just my opinion, and thats how i selected mine. as for manufacturers, i really like my isky, and know a few guys that like thier comps, and of course there are others, maybe someone on here can reccomend. and, just for information purposes, my isky is a .250 at .050 duration (straight pattern), .610 lift, on 108 lsa. it makes tons of power in my 406, and still enough vacuum for my power brakes. good luck, and hope things work out better next time!

69rs my brother orderd a set of arf heads and told them he wanted the solid springs also, when he got the heads he checked the springs and they were for a roller cam called arf and told them and they sent him the right springs right away good luck with your motor what ever you do

Well it is nice (in a weird kind of way) to know that I may not be the only victim, if that is the case. If I find that it is the roller setup, I am just going to keep it that way it is and install a solid roller. I am still trying to figure out which one tho, so your opinions are appreciated.

------------------
383, CAT 4340 forged crank, 11.3:1 SRP forged flattop pistons. 5.7" rods, CC Pro Magnum 1.6" Roller Rockers, Pete Jackson Gear Drive,
AFR 195s 64cc heads CNC'd, w/spring/valve upgrades, CC 294S, Edelbrock Air Gap, Demon 750DP, MSD Pro Billet Dist. MSD Digital 6+ Ignition, MSD Blaster3 coil, Hooker Super Comp 1.75" headers, 3"Xpipe, Dynomax Ultra Flows, M20, Eaton Posi 12 bolt 3.73 rear