I got my shortblock back from the machine shop yesterday. Ouch!

Shore is purty tho!! Here is the complete combo - can't wait to get it installed and running:

Eagle 4340 3.75" stroker crank, lightweight version
Manley Sportsmaster 4340 Capscrew 5.7" I beam rods
Wiseco -20cc reverse dome forged pistons
GMPP Fastburn heads, cleaned up per Gary@GMPP's recommendation, multi-angle valve grind 62 CC Chambers CR 9.5:1
GMPP Hot cam - 218/228 .525/.525 Hyd roller
GMPP 1.6 roller rockers
GMPP 2 plane Vortec intake - (Edelbrock Perf RPM)
Holley 650 DP 4777-2
Hooker Supercomp 1 3/4 Headers - 2 1/2" crossflow muffler shop system

Going back into my 69 Convert - Th2004R, 2200 stall, and 3.73 posi

Any glaring deficiencies? It's still at the point where I could fix a few things. This is strictly a street driven car.

Thanks!

[ 02-10-2004, 01:40 PM: Message edited by: BPOS ]

Your buildup is very similar to mine. Primary differences are the 4.155" bore and Comp roller cam.

That cam will be very easy to drive. With the 200-4R it should be a fun street car. You may even be able to run regular gasoline. Mine is at 10.3:1 measured and can run on regular gas with 32* of timing with zero detonation. My cam is 230/236 @ 0.050" 110 LSA so it does bleed off more low-speed cylinder pressure compared to yours.

If you are running the Hooker 2131 be sure to check for port interference especially at the top of the port. Likely you will have to grind out the excess weld and slot the bolt holes slightly to make the top of the port align. The bottom of the header port will be below the head port but that's a good thing. The center siamese port wall on the header will also need grinding. You may also want to re-route the #2 and #7 tubes. The aft bolt hole on the #2 tube is a PITA to get the bolt in. Just cut out the old tube about 6" past the initial bend, heat and slightly bend the remaining tube out a bit, and re-weld a new mandrel bent tube into place. The #7 tube, depending on the angle the engine sits in the car, may require some re-routing to clear the pitman arm nut. Again, cut out the offending section, heat and bend, and re-weld in a new section. The collector flange is also welded in poorly on the drivers side. One of the holes is at 6 o'clock, hence reducing ground clearance. A good muffler shop can fix all these things for around $50. I can send pics of the modifications.

Use the GM bolts for the intake manifold. The GM bolts have a pilot on the end that limits how much they can be tightened. The ARP kit does not have this feature and it is very easy to wreck the intake gasket. The GM bolt part number is 12550027. The bigger GM dual plane manifold is the same as the Edelbrock Performer RPM except Edelbrock adds a few more features for GMPP.

Try starting with 32* of timing at 3000RPM. You won't be far off.

If you have not yet purchased the rocker arms you may want to check out the Sallee Chevrolet Clearance section. They have 1.6 x 3/8" Comp Pro-Magnum rockers with rail guides for $220.

Let us know how it runs!

Thanks for the info, Carl. I'd like to see the pics of your header mods - I'll send you my e-mail address. I agree on the driver's side collector flange - what were they thinking??

I suppose I should have stated that what I did was to put a stroker kit in my ZZ430 clone. I have had the motor in and running for a year as a 350. The real changes here are the extra cubes and the head work.

I noticed when I removed the headers that the gasket didn't line up very well. I read somewhere that a Felpro 1470 is the gasket to use.

I have the feeling that this motor would like a bit more cam than the Hot cam - I have considered a Comp XR282hr. It's just that the Hot cam is so streetable and I'm at the max for lift right now with my current vaslvesprings. I wish there was a cam out there with the same lift (with 1.6) but a bit more duration on a 110 or 112 center. I haven't been able to find that magic combo yet.

Al,

The Felpro 1470 is the one. It still needs a bit of massaging with a die grinder to fit well. The Earls gaskets are really nice.

I run the XR282HR. It's a nice cam and is power brake friendly with your cubic inches. It would fit your stall nicely also.

Here's the way I got 0.600" lift capability:

GMPP spring part number 330585 $33 GMpartsdirect.com
Crower retainer to fit 87050 $58.39 Summit
Crower +0.050" keepers 86107X1-16 $43.69
Installed height 1.800"

This is a drop-in setup that will handle 0.560" with no other mods. The limiting factor is the retainer, it will hit the seal. Grind 0.050" off the bottom of the retainer (15 minutes work with a grinder)and everything is good up to 0.600" where the spring becomes the limiting factor.

The spring rate, when compared to Comps reccomendations, is one step behind. However, the valve is very light compared to what may be used on other heads. Mine has been to 6250 rpm with no ill effects but by that time the cam has run out of steam.

Comp has in their Lobe Specifications section for High Energy and Magnum Hydraulic Rollers - Low and High Lift:

Duration @ 0.050" 230* lift @ 1.6 ratio 0.512"
Duration @ 0.050" 240* lift @ 1.6 ratio 0.512"

Should fit the bill. Comp will grind whatever you want for a very reasonable price.

The nice thing about your setup is that the lifter is lighter than the aftermarket link-bar setups. You can get away with a lot less spring. I've seen several Comp hydraulic roller cams that were installed using aftermarket heads spec'ed with "for use with hyudraulic roller cams" that have been damaged due to excessive spring loading. These springs have an open load well over (90+ lbs)Comps recommendations.

IMO your 2200 stall is a pretty good match with the hot cam, much more cam though and I would think 2200 would be a little on the tight side.

There have been quite a few that have been real happy with that cam too . . . I wouldn't worry about changing it out to a bigger one personally. I'd just drive it first.

Hope your luck improves as your project moves along . . .

graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Thanks for that, Eric, and that is what I'm going to do - run the Hot cam. I'm over budget as it is, and there is a lot about that cam to like.

I think the next thing I might give some attention to is the exhaust system. Does anyone see any significant gains to be made with a mandrel bent 2 1/2 system? Are the two muffler systems significantly better than the crossflow systems?

Thanks!

Originally posted by BPOS:
Thanks for that, Eric, and that is what I'm going to do - run the Hot cam. I'm over budget as it is, and there is a lot about that cam to like.

I think the next thing I might give some attention to is the exhaust system. Does anyone see any significant gains to be made with a mandrel bent 2 1/2 system?

Have not measured back-to-back personally, but I bet it makes a big difference, especially when you look at the size of the pipe where a "non-mandrell" bend is made -- very restrictive.

Are the two muffler systems significantly better than the crossflow systems?

Cross flows cost some HP -- well worth it to go true duals.

Thanks!

Thought I'd give an update.

Installed the 383 last week - fired it up today. Everything went well with a few minor setbacks. Mainly, trouble with the starter and a stuck float on the Holley. Once those were fixed she fired right up and it runs well.

Haven't driven it yet - I need to hook up the torque converter and fill the trans and adjust the TV cable. Beleieve it or not, that takes the best part of an afternoon when you work at my pace, and it's beerthirty now.

It sounds great - but I was told not to let it sit and idle for very long before taking it out on the road, so I think I'll finish up the little details Wednesday and then give it a drive.

Oh yeah - I must have bumped the heater core on the engine install as it is now leaking....sounds like time for a heater hose loop... graemlins/clonk.gif