Here's the scoop, solid cam with 102 overlap centers 504 lift..... whats the EZ way to adjust this without turning the engine over dozens of times??? I've got the method recommended by Chevy in the factory service manuel about set #1 at tdc then adjust E=3&6 and I=2&7 but will this work on HIPO cams.....seems like with a lot of overlap there should be a lot of "backside" and the lifters should be on the low side longer??? The Cam mfgr suggests adjusting each cylinder individually but this turns into al 'allday' project just turning the engine over...
Pozzi, what do you know about this???

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keepin' it original 69Z

Do a search on the subject - there's been some good discussions incl. one where I got some help recently.

I adjusted mine 4 times one weekend - 3 by the Chevy manual and then the 4th by the Intake-opening/exhaust closing method suggested by others here. That seemed to work the best. I'll be doing them one more time tomorrow when I install new roller rockers. http://www.camaros.net/forum/biggrin.gif - oh boy!

It's really not that bad to rotate the engine around a few times. I pull the plugs and use a good long 1/2" ratchet and it's done pretty fast.

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Scott
'69 400SB, Richmond 5-speed; '99 HD Road King Classic
www.geocities.com/sdenning1 (http://www.geocities.com/sdenning1)

Z-man,
First I would like to mention that this question would probably get more answers in the "engine and drivetrain" forum. That beaing said ...
If you use the intake opening / exhaust closing method you only have to turn the motor over 4 complete turns. Start with the number 1 intake valve and go through the firing order (18436572) and adjust all the intakes. Then go back to the number 1 exhaust valve and do all the exhausts. 1/4 turn between each valve, 4 complete revolutions all together.
Hey Scott, how do you like your Richmond 5 speed ? Just got a brand new one for my 71 Chevelle. What rear gear are you using ? How does it shift ? I have the Hurst shifter to go with it. I am used to yanking gears with a Muncie M21 and cant wait to get the 5 speed installed.

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Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md



[This message has been edited by BillK (edited 07-01-2000).]

I also used the intake opening/exhaust closing when I did my recent cam swap.It works great.I don't mean to sound arrogant,but,the way I see it why put all the time and $$ into a cam swap,then worry about spending an extra 15 minutes adjusting the lifters the RIGHT way.Don't cut corners.Just my .02.

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67 RS RAGTOP # matching
4X4 Chevy truck
4X4 Suburban

Bill -

The Richmond tranny is sweet! Mine is just getting broken in with about 1,000 miles on it. It was a little balky when I first got it but it's smoothing out nicely now. It's a blast to drive and I'm really happy that I tossed the auto tranny for a manual but even more so that I made the move to the 5 speed.

I'm running a 2.70 rear gear in a Ford 9" which is on the lower end of Richmond's recommendations. If I did the math right that gives me the equivalent of somewhere in the 4.00 range (give-or-take a bit) in 1st gear since it's a 3.27 - 1. Highway driving is a breeze with the motor loafing along at 2300rpm @ about 65mph - gives me 20mpg! It's the best of both worlds.

I went with the Long shifter. It's a good shifter - although it looks and feels a lot like a Hurst to me. The drawback is that the Long shifter won't fit in a 1st gen with a console. I understand the Hurst can be modifed fairly easily to move the shifter over so the console will fit. I may be able to do the same with the Long but haven't tried.

Let us know how the Richmond works out for you.

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Scott
'69 400SB, Richmond 5-speed; '99 HD Road King Classic
www.geocities.com/sdenning1 (http://www.geocities.com/sdenning1)

BillK.... OK....I understand what you mean.. but... it seems you should be able to bring #1 to TDC and do both exh and int then rotate crank 90 degrees and do #8 and keep going in 1/4 crank revolutions then you only have to turn it over 2 full times... Am I thinking right?? This sure seems like the surest way and the easiest & shortest but I've never seen anyone else recommend it...
Thanks for the input...

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keepin' it original 69Z

Z-man,
On larger camshafts, there is a possibility that one of the valves is slightly open at tdc due to the "overlap" of the two valves. The only safe way is the hard way.

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Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md

BillK is right.
I use a remote starter button and do all the intakes and then all the exhausts. This helps prevent errors.
Intake closes, set exhaust. Exhaust opens, set intake

On a big cam you won't be quite at minimum lift when at TDC. You might be .005 to .010 off. Which will make the valves that much looser. Things will hammer apart if the engine is run with the valves that loose.

I'd like to mention that the engine must be run for 20 to 30 minutes at an rpm of 2200, no slower to break in a new cam. Assuming it's a flat tappet cam, it recieves lubrication from splash off the connecting rods. If you run at low speed you will risk wiping out the cam lobes.
David

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Check my web page for suspension info:
David's Homepage (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/)
67 RS 327
69 Camaro Vintage Racer
65 Lola T-70 Can Am Vintage Racer

RockyMtnRacer
I did a mod on my Richmond/ Hurst setup, it fits a console well. I had to make a new spacer plate to lower the shifter and move it forward, and weld a new socket on the shifter top to move it to the center of the trans.

David

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Check my web page for suspension info:
David's Homepage (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/)
67 RS 327
69 Camaro Vintage Racer
65 Lola T-70 Can Am Vintage Racer

I hate to be picky here guys, but just so noone misunderstands, it's actually intake CLOSING (Check the exhaust) / exhaust OPENING (Check the intake). Take care.

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69 SSRS Frame-off Resto
81 Z-28 377ci Drag Car

Here's the link to the last discussion on this subject:
http://www.camaros.net/forum/Forum1/HTML/001462.html

Here's the advice that was given to me:

"I like the exhaust opening/intake closing method. Turn the engine over starting at whichever cylinder you choose (I usually start at #1); turn it until the exhaust just starts to open. Adjust the intake rocker. Slowly tighten the rocker until the pushrod doesn't spin or as I prefer lift up on the rear of the rocker arm (spring side) up and down until there is no clearance. Turn the nut 1/2 turn more. Then turn the engine over until the intake fully opens and just STARTS to close (don't close it completely, stop when you see the rocker dropping). Now adjust the exhaust rocker. This method will work with all cams and guarantees the lifters are on the base of the camshaft. I have helped several friends adjust their noisy lifters; it's always been due to improper adjustment (barring a mechanical problem."

How about just adjusting them at the top of the compression stroke? Just follow the firing order, rotate the balancer 90 degrees each time.

Rob