i've had my mind set on a 383 for a while now and i'm wondering where the best place to buy a kit from is. i've seen ads in CHP for Powerhouse and some others as well.

can anyone tell me their experiences good/bad about certain kits (best for the money)? and also where should i look for the block at? is it ok to just snag one from the junkyard or should i look into a new on such as a merlin or something of similiar quality. this is my first build up and i'm kinda lost on who has good quality merchandise for the money and who is selling me a bunch of "bells and whistles" i don't need

if it helps i'm going to put a muncie m20 onto it and some trickflows (i've heard good things about them around here) i also have a edelbrock RPM manifold from the original engine that was in it. (side question can i use this manifold for a 383? i don't see why not).

thanks in advance

ben

I think the Eagle rotating assemblies are the best around for your money. I've got quite a few customers using them and all have been happy with them. Don't buy the balanced kits though. Buy the unbalanced and have a reputable engine shop do your balancing.

An aftermarket block isn't neccesary until your making 700+hp.

The RPM intake will work great on a street 383.

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79' Z28...

hey thanks for the quick reply. so are you sugesting using a used block? and do you have a link for the eagle co.?

thanks again

ben

Ben,

Although the Eagle crankshafts can be made to work well... Everyone that I've heard from say that it's a must to have it machined right out of the box! I have heard that the Callis cranks are a much better product and don't cost much more than the Eagle. Try Flatlander Racing for the stroker kit! Many have said they were pleased with thier kits
http://www.flatlanderracing.com/

Best of luck with your project


Tom

[This message has been edited by 67 Prostreet (edited 07-20-2002).]

Tom,

What kind of machining did your friends had to do? I have Eagle's 4340 rotating assembly with SRP pistons and had them balance the kit. Other than minor clearancing of the block around the base of #1 and #2 saddles it when right in and runs great.



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Joseph

1969 Camaro
404 SB w/ 10.3:1 Eagle 4340 assembly in Dart Little-M block, AFR 210's, Crower #00350 short track solid cam 238/244 @ .050" on a 107 lobe center and .530" lift w/ 1.6 rockers, Holley 750 vac sec, Victor Jr., custom 1.75" headers, Spintech 2.5" exhaust with x-pipe and Sportsman XL mufflers, T-56, CenterForce Dual Friction clutch and billet flywheel, Guldstrand Mod., Landrum 600# front springs and adjustable spacers, Hotchkis 1.125" front bar, Detroit Eaton 175# rear springs, Bilstien shocks.
1971 Ford Bronco
Stock 302, 4" rock crawler suspension lift, 1.5" body lift, NP435 tranny, 4.11 gears, Detroit Locker rear diff., Power-Lock limited slip front diff., 33" BFG MudTerrain tires.

I'd also like to know what needed machining, and why the crank wasn't returned to Eagle for a new one. I've sold about 10 of these cranks/rotating assemblies and everyone was great outta the box. I plan on using one for my 496 build up.

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79' Z28...

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by joesmith69:
I'd also like to know what needed machining, and why the crank wasn't returned to Eagle for a new one. I've sold about 10 of these cranks/rotating assemblies and everyone was great outta the box. I plan on using one for my 496 build up.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
I have a complete 383 shortblock with a cola crank,crower rod,and a JE piston. All top notch parts. Here is the add I am using to sell it if interested. I want 2700.00 for it and will split shipping. If you want to make big power withit stay away from eagle..Buy american made metal..

385 cu small block chevy shortblock. All parts bought brand new.. 10 dyno pulls (have sheets) and 12 full track passes 3200lb car with 10 inch street tire went 10.14@133mph made 696hp and 550tq. Cost over 5000.00 to build.
Low core shift 4 bolt block with line hone and arp main studs torque plate block and deck to 0. 700.00
Cola 4340 pro series 3.75 stroke with 1/8 radus 800.00
Crower pro series 6.00inch 4340 con rods 750.00
Je pro series 4.040 with upgraded pins 600.00
Custom ground lunati roller camshaft 285.00
Iskey offset roller lifters 500.00
Rings pro seal 150.00
Bearings H series 100.00
Hambuger oil pan with crank scrapper and windage tray built in 200.00
Internal balance 250.00
Timing chain billet hambuger 120.00
Billet timing cover 50.00
Oil pump and pickup 50.00

No need to do anything but bolt your heads on. I had out of the box afr 220 and a bowtie intake.
Can run pump gas with open chamber head. I used a 62cc and it was 13.to 1.

Guy's I'll get more info this week and post... I've heard from several that the Eagle cranks are not machined all that well and require additional machining to make them right. Although it sounds like several of you have had a good experience with them!

Keep watching for the reply!

Tom

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>If you want to make big power withit stay away from eagle..Buy american made metal..<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I love people who don't know what they're talking about. I personally know several guys with 408(ford) eagle stroker kits running low 10's-mid 9's on motor, and even faster on spray. My buddy has a 406 eagle kit in his motor that's making damn near 600hp at the crank, and sprays it with an additional 225hp shot of nitrous. Now tell me these kits don't hold up.

4340 steel is 4340 steel. Yes there is better, but Eagle stuff is good enough to go very fast.


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79' Z28...

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by joesmith69:
I love people who don't know what they're talking about. I personally know several guys with 408(ford) eagle stroker kits running low 10's-mid 9's on motor, and even faster on spray. My buddy has a 406 eagle kit in his motor that's making damn near 600hp at the crank, and sprays it with an additional 225hp shot of nitrous. Now tell me these kits don't hold up.

4340 steel is 4340 steel. Yes there is better, but Eagle stuff is good enough to go very fast.


<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Dont know what they are talking about.??? I dont call tens and mid 9 big power... out of 400+inch motors. 600@the crank. I have a 350 with pump gas that makes 620...Eagle stuff is junk....!!!!I dont know of many comp E guys or serious races with eagle junk. Just people who try to justify the savings... My 18 degree motor makes 840@ the crank No way I am going to save 1000.00 dollars to get some heavy Jap junk..+and that is with a 390 inch motor...You keep going tens with your eagle stuff when you want to step up buy the good stuff.

miker104 - I have to agree with Joesmith69, you don't know what the he11 you're talking about. Eagle stuff is fine and when I want to go 10's or 9's or whatever, I'll make an educated decision and buy the right cola crank or whatever I need to make the power I want to. For now, my cast Eagle crank and SIR rods are doing great in my 383 that spins to 6500+ and turns high 11's. I'd have to say the Eagle cast crank and SIR rods are more than adequate for most street engines.

"Junk" is a relative term. I'm confident that my Eagle 4340 assembly will endure anything I intend to put it through. If I were seriously road racing or drag racing the car then maybe higher quality stuff would be in order.

Joseph

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Joseph:
"Junk" is a relative term. I'm confident that my Eagle 4340 assembly will endure anything I intend to put it through. If I were seriously road racing or drag racing the car then maybe higher quality stuff would be in order.

Joseph<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I agree it is not junk if that is all that is needed.. But I got the feeling that the guy was trying to make a statement that eagle rods are the same quality as a crower because they are both 4340 and that the cranks are as good as a bryant crank because hey they are both metal... My 350 inch motor that make 620 flywheel horsepower has a stock cast chevy crank...I am sure the eagle is stronger than that. I just cant justify not spending a few hundred more on a crank that needs no work from the box.. call shafiroff and he will tell you to use the callies cranks over the eagle and use the lunati rods over the eagle because the tolorence are alot better. In fact I just ordered a 434 from them they dont even want to sell the motor with a eagle crank in it. They use them only up to the 406 then they talk you into higher quality... If they were all the same 4340 then why would you do that. I dont think they make anymore money on the callies crank being it is only 200.00 more bucks.. Sorry to insult the part you guys choose never meant to do that..I just have seen to many people with more trouble than necessary with eagle parts...that does not mean they are not good I just like as few of problems as i can.. good luck.

It has nothing to do with 'if there is better'. It has everything to do with the fact that the Eagle kit is MORE then adequate for the intended application in the original post.

You'll have to excuse my wording for being relative to a street car. 600 Hp is big power in a street car. Sure crower or lunati or callies is better stuff then Eagle, but most guys on this board, myself included will spend $1,000 dollars less on our rotating assemblies, and probably another $5,000 less on out motors, and happily go 10's and 9's on our 'inferior' parts.

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79' Z28...

Hey Miker!

That is just about the engine I am looking for. Pse email me info from the dyno sheets and the cam chart: sm7sjr@hotmail.com

I agree with you about the Eagle stuff by the way, if you want to make serious horsepower and have an engine that will last for a while....

Regards Bjorn, Sweden.
68 street Camaro. 454 (733hp), TH400.
67 race Camaro. Needs engine, A1 PG.

wow!!! i leave for the weekend and this post sure got heated!

not to stray from what you guys are talking about (eagle good/bad) but if i could go back to my original question and also add that i'm not going to be racing this car but would like to get substancial power from it for the best price. i understand what is being said about you don't want to buy cheap parts just because they are the best price buy but poor quality but i don't want to break the bank either.

throwing this information into the pot can i get any new ideas or confirmations about old ones about where to go?

thanks again,

ben

Call Lunati in Memphis,TN. I read an article a year or so ago about some well prepped 400 blocks that they are selling somewhere in the $700.00 range. They also make GREAT 4340 rotating assemblies and if you don't need that much beef ask about the sportsman series stuff. They do have nice stuff and a good bit of variety to work with. Good luck

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SCOTT
69 RS-SS 396 4-SPEED

for a street application look at SCAT products also. Divid Vizard speaks well about their products and has yet to break anything from them in his books. You'll like the price too.

Thanks mike. I was going to ask about SCAT cranks. I am currently having a 94 LT-1 stroked and am going to be using a SCAT forged crank and I was wondering what you guys thought about that piece. Thanks in advance.

cheers

bob spears

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69mscle (http://www.pro-touring.com/featured_cars/Camaro/1969_Camaro/Robert_Spears_69_Camaro/right_front.JPG)

hey thanks again for the replies. looks like i'm going to have some research ahead of me. i just bought d. vizard's "how to rebuild chevy small blocks" since i heard from many sources that it is a must to have for you first build up.

thanks again,

ben

btw anyone from tucson, az that might be willing to get together and take a look at the car and maybe give some pointers? http://www.camaros.net/forum/smile.gif

I was going to suggest SCAT as well. They have complete rotating assemblies with SRP pistons. Very reasonable prices too.

http://www.camaros.net/forum/smile.gif

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1969 Nova SS 350
406/M20/3.55
13.63 at 105