Okay so I don't know if you guys would be interested but I wasn't happy with the sound that I was getting from my under mount speakers, so I decided to make a new Rear parcel shelf and incorporate the new 6x9 speakers and install a new repo head unit with a ipod mounted in the glove box.

First we cut the MDF to suit including the shape of the rings to house the speakers
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa79/kiwiwoosh/P1010072.jpg

We glued temporary blocks to hold the rings at the right angle then used tee shirt material to stretch over the form
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa79/kiwiwoosh/P1010086.jpg

Once the fabric is stretched over the area a coat of resin is mixed and brushed onto the fabric. The rock you see is what we used to give the natural curve that is in the metal work of the car when the resin dries the curve remained a bit primitive but it worked.
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa79/kiwiwoosh/P1010087.jpg


Once the resin is dried cut of the excess and this now gives the basic form that it will take
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa79/kiwiwoosh/P1010099.jpg

Fiberglass chop mat is now applied to the hardened material, this is what actually gives the strength to the shelf.
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa79/kiwiwoosh/P1010102.jpg

When dry the fiberglass is sanded and a light coat of body filler is applied to take up any imperfections.
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa79/kiwiwoosh/P1010106.jpg

Before the install we made sure that there was dynamat in place
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa79/kiwiwoosh/P1010107.jpg

We then covered the shelf with the finished material
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa79/kiwiwoosh/P1010108.jpg

This is the shelf installed
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa79/kiwiwoosh/P1010114.jpg

New Head deck in and ipod mounted in glove box
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa79/kiwiwoosh/P1010116.jpg

Filip your posts are more addictive than crack. I dont know what you do for a living but it should include car engineering. mark

It looks very nice.

Looks good...hows it sound ?

I need to install aluminum on mine along with behind the back seat due to the fuel cell. I may end up doing something like that depending on how it sounds with being closed in ?

Keep up the great work :beers:

Very nice work!!!!

David F.

Looks good...hows it sound ?

I need to install aluminum on mine along with behind the back seat due to the fuel cell. I may end up doing something like that depending on how it sounds with being closed in ?

Keep up the great work :beers:

I am really pleased with the sound. Its never going to compare to a custom install but with the 6x9 three ways and with it being closed in it delivers a real nice low end (Bass), without the need of installing a separate bass box, and with the speakers tilted forward the mid range and tweeters make for a nice crisp and clear sound at the front.

It looks really nice. But one question. How is it closed in? It looks like it vents into the trunk from the pictures.

It looks really nice. But one question. How is it closed in? It looks like it vents into the trunk from the pictures.


I was thinking the same thing but I don't think it matters with 6x9 speakers.

Nice looking job...

You have an amp on there too ?

What speakers would you recomend (for use with a 200w Amp) ?
I don't need all that bass but I would like it to sound expensive :)

Okay so I don't know if you guys would be interested but I wasn't happy with the sound that I was getting from my under mount speakers, so I decided to make a new Rear parcel shelf and incorporate the new 6x9 speakers and install a new repo head unit with a ipod mounted in the glove box.

First we cut the MDF to suit including the shape of the rings to house the speakers

New Head deck in and ipod mounted in glove box
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa79/kiwiwoosh/P1010116.jpg

kiwi,
i love that hurst in the center console like that. i love the gauges as well. please give me whatever detials you can.
it looks like a factory console with the hurst fabed to fit in it.
where did you get the gauge pod for it or did you have to make. i love that setup and will most likely try to duplicate it if you dont mind.

Bucknaked, This is the post you are looking for...

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=161748

Stefan

[Edit] Had to make a new 4 pod to accomodate a fuel guage as we put autometer Speedo and Tacho.

kiwi,
that thing is amazing! too bad i cannot pull off that kind of craftsman ship. i am so very jealous.
if i had any idea what shipping might cost i would almost concider asking to see if you were intrested in doing another.

i have a 68 very similar to the white with a black top in the back of these shots.

You have an amp on there too ?

What speakers would you recomend (for use with a 200w Amp) ?
I don't need all that bass but I would like it to sound expensive :)

Currently I dont have a amp attached but when we lined the trunk I have made provision to house the amp. I have made a box to go on the underside of the speakers in the trunk but I have not and will probably not install it with the trunk Dynamat and lined it seems to work fine as is.

Here is a couple of pics of the trunk and where the amp provision is
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa79/kiwiwoosh/P1000621-2.jpg

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa79/kiwiwoosh/P1000623.jpg

Nice work. It's nice to have an idea and be able to show how it's done.

I've done a few package shelfs and kick panels through the years and while yours is done, you might want to see if this works for you:

When stapling the material over the raised section, put the staples real close to each other or slightly overlapping each other so the material is held tight against the surface it being stapled to. Now you can trim the excess off maybe an 1/8" out from the staples. This 1/8" of material should now freely lay against the backer board.

On mine I just brush a layer of just resin with catalyst mixed in over the stretched cloth and let it dry. Now the material is no longer porous and on the ones I've built I leave this topside alone to keep it holding it's shape but I need to make the cloth thicker for strength and what I do is take some of the fiberglass matting and using sizzors, cut it up into a fine fuzz. The small pieces of chopped up matting then get added into a mixing cup that I have already mixed some resin and catalyst into and I add enough to make a slurry of chopped up matting with the resin. I then stand the deck or kick panel on it's edge so it can be backfilled so to speak using the center hole for the speaker. Since it's a slury I can only do part of the backside but then after this mix cures I can turn the deck or kick panel and do another section and continue this until now after it's all said and done the cloth is now thicker and the topside needs barely if any filler and holds the original shape since no material was added onto the topside.

A lot of times too, I use either 5 minute epoxy or hot glue to hold in my spacers but normally leave them in place just for added support.

Another thing I've found out is you have to watch hot hot you mix the fiberglass, how thick it is, and so on. If you put on too many layers and have a hot resin mix covering the whole deck after it cures it may want to warp. I've found out by adding some weights to hold it down, the warpage can be controlled.

Again, nice work on the deck and all of the other thing's you've done.

Oh, and get some cheap rubber gloves for your hands and put some shoes on. You get resin on your hands or feet and it's REAL fun to get off :) .

Jim

OH yeah..
Give a Kiwi a bit of #8 wire...

And love the bare feet to m8

Nice work!
How about some details on the shifter installation in your console?

Hey Kiwi....Nice job!

do you happen to have a photo of the front of the package tray, near where the rear seat mounts? just curious as to what you did there.

Also, what size mdf did you use? and does it tuck under the rear panel or just "snug" up to that area? just was wondering how its mounted down so it doesn't rattle or move much....

You have an amp on there too ?

What speakers would you recomend (for use with a 200w Amp) ?
I don't need all that bass but I would like it to sound expensive :)

The man whom I do business with recommends these: Pioneer D series 902P speakers. "Nothing
else performs like them when driven by our system."---- Larry Wood
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0013KWX2O/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new (http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0013KWX2O/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new)
This is just one source as there are more obviously. In combination with hidden fronts or a dual dash speaker it produces great sound.
He does conversions and customs. He purchases stock radios from me for supply. He says it's very important to seal the speakers properly to the mounting surface to achieve optimum sound...Zero gaps. I happened to be impressed with his R&D and not just purchasing any speaker for his systems. Very picky he is. http://woodradios.com/

Hey Kiwi....Nice job!

do you happen to have a photo of the front of the package tray, near where the rear seat mounts? just curious as to what you did there.

Also, what size mdf did you use? and does it tuck under the rear panel or just "snug" up to that area? just was wondering how its mounted down so it doesn't rattle or move much....
Hi, Hopefully this will answer your question. I used 6mm MDF, the MDF is basically to hold the shape and the the material as you form it, the real strength is when you fiberglass and resin the board. The front of the package tray where the seat mounts is just a flush fit, it is tight along the seat and looks as if it tucks in but doesn't it is hard to get a good camera angle to take a photo. You can actually remove the rear shelf with out removing the rear squab.

To fasten the shelf i installed Tee Nuts, These were countersunk 1mm from the top side and is simply screwed in from underneath using existing holes in the body
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa79/kiwiwoosh/Screenshot2010-01-06at81206AM.png

These are the bolts from underneath i used a bolt and a lock nut that way I could screw the bolt into the shelf without coming out the top side then use the nut to pull it tightly down and hold it secure without having anything visible topside.


http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa79/kiwiwoosh/Screenshot2010-01-06at83043AM.png

Nice work. It's nice to have an idea and be able to show how it's done.

I've done a few package shelfs and kick panels through the years and while yours is done, you might want to see if this works for you:

When stapling the material over the raised section, put the staples real close to each other or slightly overlapping each other so the material is held tight against the surface it being stapled to. Now you can trim the excess off maybe an 1/8" out from the staples. This 1/8" of material should now freely lay against the backer board.

On mine I just brush a layer of just resin with catalyst mixed in over the stretched cloth and let it dry. Now the material is no longer porous and on the ones I've built I leave this topside alone to keep it holding it's shape but I need to make the cloth thicker for strength and what I do is take some of the fiberglass matting and using sizzors, cut it up into a fine fuzz. The small pieces of chopped up matting then get added into a mixing cup that I have already mixed some resin and catalyst into and I add enough to make a slurry of chopped up matting with the resin. I then stand the deck or kick panel on it's edge so it can be backfilled so to speak using the center hole for the speaker. Since it's a slury I can only do part of the backside but then after this mix cures I can turn the deck or kick panel and do another section and continue this until now after it's all said and done the cloth is now thicker and the topside needs barely if any filler and holds the original shape since no material was added onto the topside.

A lot of times too, I use either 5 minute epoxy or hot glue to hold in my spacers but normally leave them in place just for added support.

Another thing I've found out is you have to watch hot hot you mix the fiberglass, how thick it is, and so on. If you put on too many layers and have a hot resin mix covering the whole deck after it cures it may want to warp. I've found out by adding some weights to hold it down, the warpage can be controlled.

Again, nice work on the deck and all of the other thing's you've done.

Oh, and get some cheap rubber gloves for your hands and put some shoes on. You get resin on your hands or feet and it's REAL fun to get off :) .

Jim


Isn't that exactly what was done above in the photos? As for the resin on hands and feet... nothing a little acetone can't fix :D

Hi, Hopefully this will answer your question. I used 6mm MDF, the MDF is basically to hold the shape and the the material as you form it, the real strength is when you fiberglass and resin the board. The front of the package tray where the seat mounts is just a flush fit, it is tight along the seat and looks as if it tucks in but doesn't it is hard to get a good camera angle to take a photo. You can actually remove the rear shelf with out removing the rear squab.

To fasten the shelf i installed Tee Nuts, These were countersunk 1mm from the top side and is simply screwed in from underneath using existing holes in the body
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa79/kiwiwoosh/Screenshot2010-01-06at81206AM.png

These are the bolts from underneath i used a bolt and a lock nut that way I could screw the bolt into the shelf without coming out the top side then use the nut to pull it tightly down and hold it secure without having anything visible topside.


http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa79/kiwiwoosh/Screenshot2010-01-06at83043AM.png


OK, now I see!! Sets in snug all the way around, and sweet setup that you can remove it easily too! Like that tons:thumbsup:

Thanks for the info....now gotta build one for myself!

Isn't that exactly what was done above in the photos? As for the resin on hands and feet... nothing a little acetone can't fix :D

Nope, It's not.

Originally Posted by myself (SOA-Nova):

I suggested when stapling the material over the raised section, put the staples real close to each other or slightly overlapping each other so the material is held tight against the surface it's being stapled to. His looks like there is a staple, then a space, then another staple, then a space, and then a staple and so on.

Exactly what was done in the above photo's ?. Nope.

Did it work for him ?. Yes



I suggested that with the staples being right next to each other that now you can trim the excess off maybe an 1/8" out from the staples. This 1/8" of material should now freely lay against the backer board. On his it looks like the excess material laying flat on the backer board was stapled down.

Exactly like what was done in the above photo's ?. Nope.

Did it work for him. Yes.



I said that on mine (and again was offered it as a suggestion) is that I just brush a layer of just resin with catalyst mixed in over the stretched cloth and let it dry. Now the material is no longer porous and on the ones I've built I leave this topside alone to keep it holding it's shape but I need to make the cloth thicker for strength and what I do is take some of the fiberglass matting and using sizzors, cut it up into a fine fuzz. The small pieces of chopped up matting then get added into a mixing cup that I have already mixed some resin and catalyst into and I add enough to make a slurry of chopped up matting with the resin. I then stand the deck or kick panel on it's edge so it can be backfilled so to speak using the center hole for the speaker. Since it's a slury I can only do part of the backside but then after this mix cures I can turn the deck or kick panel and do another section and continue this until now after it's all said and done the cloth is now thicker and the topside needs barely if any filler and holds the original shape since no material was added onto the topside.


On his it looks like he layed more fiberglass matting onto the TOPSIDE or SHOWN side. Again, just like what was done in the above photo's ?. Nope.

Did it work for him, Yes.


A lot of times too, I use either 5 minute epoxy or hot glue to hold in my spacers but normally leave them in place just for added support.

On this I can't say if this is exactly what was shown in the above photo's. Did the way he did it work for him ?. Yes.



Another thing I've found out is you have to watch hot hot you mix the fiberglass, how thick it is, and so on. If you put on too many layers and have a hot resin mix covering the whole deck after it cures it may want to warp. I've found out by adding some weights to hold it down, the warpage can be controlled.

Was this exactly what was shown in the photo's ?. I couldn't say.




Again, nice work on the deck and all of the other thing's you've done.

On this, I did mean what I said. :)

I was just offering a comment.


Jim

Here is food for thought for those interested in alternatives. My brother built a rear engine plane (canard design). Different density composites are layered in it's construction and sanded to achieve the contours required. Much like motorcycle and car seats are but more rigid. This would eliminate labor and some messy glass work for the interested parties. And obviously much lighter. Don't ask me where to get it, you are on your own.

awesome work as usual kiwi!

you inspire me.

Filip... Great work on the trunk too :beers:

Bucknaked, This is the post you are looking for...

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=161748

Stefan

[Edit] Had to make a new 4 pod to accomodate a fuel guage as we put autometer Speedo and Tacho.

Awesome work as always Filip. You give us normal guys the motivation to do these things ourselves. You are normal, right? lol Love seeing your posts. That trunk looks awesome also. You must be saving a lot of money doing these things yourself. Keep up the good work.

Bucknaked, you can buy the 4 gauge pod to use with smaller gauges. I paid about $40 for mine.

Robert