everyone tells me headers are a must and that i won't see a
significant HP gain from the cam, intake, and carb swap with the stock
cast iron exhaust manifolds.
i've shied away from them due to the horror stories i've heard about a/c and power steering installation, would love to find a set of shorties i could bolt right up to my 2 1/2" stainless steel exhaust with flowmasters requiring no mods. any suggestions?
does anybody out there have headers on their '69 or other first gen with a big block, air conditioning, power steering and a 4-speed manual in the console?
see i may have another option with getting my stock manifolds "extrude-honed". This process forces a thick abrasive putty
through the manifold and basically ports the manifold. Doubt if they do this anywhere in Mississippi. anybody know where i could get this done, how well it works and how much it costs? looks like i would have to ship them off (more $$).
as i've stated before, i'm not trying to get the fastest car around, just want more drivabity and ease of maintenance - where i can let the car set for a week at a time, fire it right up and cruse for a while with no fear of break downs, running horribly or having to fix something every other time i take it out (i do know this is a 30 year old car and that will never happen, but just trying to get closer to it).
thanks, mike

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pages.prodigy.net/mtbmtb/rf396ss.jpg (http://pages.prodigy.net/mtbmtb/rf396ss.jpg)

I think Car Craft did a comparison between manifold, extrude honed manifolds, and headers. It was a few months back, I was interested in doing the same thing with some manifolds. I found extrude hone's web page by just going to a search site and typing their name in.

I have personally never run headers, but I know alot of people who do. For instance, my buddy has them on his 4x4 pickup, they are a real nuisance, he has Headmans. They are always coming loose, he is costantly replacing gaskets and they looked like crap after about 2 weeks on the road. My uncle used to tell me the same thing about the ones he had on his '72 El Camino.

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Bryan Shook
Burgettstown, Pa
Favorite Quote - Some people have shrinks. Some people have their garage.
www.geocities.com/motorcity/speedway/6673 (http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/speedway/6673)

I have Jet Hot Coated headers. They look great, and theyhelp make power.I have only had to replace the collector gasket once in the year that i have been driving it, and that was because they were the cheap paper type. I have never had a problem with them coming loose. The only thing that is a pain is getting to all the bolts when you are taking them off.

Most people have problems with headers because they buy cheap gaskets. Buy the highest quality Fel-Pro head/header gaskets and aluminum or copper collector gaskets. Both are available in Jeg's or Summit.

Also, buy stainless steel collector bolts, washers, and nuts. You can get them at Pep Boys. This makes them much easier to tighten if they do come loose since they won't rust. If you use a split washer, they shouldn't come loose.

When you install the header bolts, use Loctite. Also, I bought special header bolts that uses a crescent shaped retaining washer and an "e" spring to keep the bolts from coming loose.

Since I switched to aluminum collector gaskets two years ago, I have had no leakage problems whatsoever. Just like anything else, if you spend the $ up front, you won't have problems later on.

I bought a set of those locking bolts from Summit and the bolts simply can't come loose and never have. As far as leaks I had a few with paper gaskets until I learned a tip here or on the Chevelle page about soaking the paper gaskets in the bathtub (so they lay flat) overnight then install them wet and start the car up and let them settle in. I'm not using 300 dollar headers so they are not perfect and I kept getting a leak in one spot until my last set that I soaked overnight. Hasn't leaked since. My headers are as trouble free as manifolds

anybody have headers on a 396 with a/c, power steering and 4-speed manual in the console? if so what brand? any problems?

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pages.prodigy.net/mtbmtb/rf396ss.jpg (http://pages.prodigy.net/mtbmtb/rf396ss.jpg)

I'd look into Doug Thorley's if you want a truly high quality header. Take a look at them and I doubt you'd be disappointed. I won't use anything else.

in case anyone was wondering. i contacted extude hone. this is what i found out...
Dear Mike:
Thank you for your inquiry. The cost to Extrude Hone process your
exhaust manifolds is $500.00 + shipping per pair. If you have further
questions, please call me at 1-800-613-1065 or email.


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pages.prodigy.net/mtbmtb/rf396ss.jpg (http://pages.prodigy.net/mtbmtb/rf396ss.jpg)

$500 plus S&H!!! Holy Sh....crap. These guys are nuts!!! I have the Jet Hot cyramic coated headers on my 67 rs/ss. Look great, no rust, no problems.

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I Haven't put headers on the Camaro yet, next month. Last year I put Edelbrock shorty's on my truck, and I've had other header equiped cars. Throw away the paper gaskets and use OEM style composition gaskets! The Edelbrocks use OEM style biscuit collector flange gaskets. This combo has gone 30,000 miles this year, had to tighten the header bolts once, no blown gaskets. I'm not sure if Edelbrock makes any for first gens. You're right, if you don't ceramic coat them they'll look like heck in an hour.

I was looking through my Super Chevy and Hot Rod mags over the weekend and saw an ad in one of them for Sanderson cast iron headers. Anyone had any experience with these?

Only draw back I can see would be weight, but it might be worth a call to them.

The one's I have seen were cast aluminum or so I thought... They were on a '69 with a ZZ4 M21 combo. They fed 3" pipe and 2 stage flows. Sound was nice and throaty. I got to drive it but I couldn't tell you how much the headers improved things. It was a thrill ride car all the way! I felt the Sanderson's would be good in a tight fit and would complement a pro touring car big time...

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...DjD
69 Ragtop
www.fbody.com/members/topless69 (http://www.fbody.com/members/topless69)

Mike, I have a 427 w PS and a Muncie in my 67ss. I installed HPC Coated Headman headers that are the shortie type. They are 1-7/8 primary with 3" collectors. I got them from summit for under $300. I dont have any clearance problems. I would recommend spending the money to get the Ceramic (HPC) coated headers. They help with heat and won't rust. Use copper or Aluminum gaskets and you wont have many problems with blown gaskets. The paper ones are for hanging on the wall.

Mike, I also own a '69 big block with a/c and p/s. The car had headers on it when I bought it, but the previous owner had to cut into the a/c box to make them fit. Also, the seals were baked out of the power steering box. Neadless to say, I went back to manifolds. The engine that was in the car when I bought it was a '70 402. I bored it .030 over, and ran a Comp Cam 292H. Through the manifolds and exaust, with slicks, I can 13.3 at 105 mph (oh yeah, I ran a 4:11 rear). The torque converter was alittle tight and I couldn't get a good launch. I quess what I'm trying to say is, I'm sure I could have run High 12's through the manifolds. If thats fast enough for you, stick with the manifolds, and add a set of cut-outs for good measure. However, I just reciently dropped a new 502/502 in the car. I think I sould be able to go mid 12's through the manifolds with that, on a bad day.
I too have seen the Sanders adds for BB shorty headers, which are true steel tube headrs, but not equal length. They look like the outlets are in the same position as manifolds, so you should be able to run the same exhaust without modification. The Jet Hotted ones run about $500. Sorry, there's no cheap way for us guys who like A/C. BTW, how do you like changing #8 plug now? You'll realy love it if you go to headers!

Keith - '69 RS/SS 502