Has anyone connected the frame of a 67 convertable. Im not sure if the frame connectors sold by competion engineering will fit the chassis. There is a crossmember welded to the undercarriage which appears to dip down pretty low along with the back passenger foot area.If anyone has done it or has a suggestion please help.

Non of the frame connecters will work. However there are two options. One is to do a through the frame instalation. The other is to cut out a section on the connector so it will fit around the cross member. When I get around to it, I am going to get some connectors and cut a section out of them then weld in some reenforcement on the connector and install them. Both of these options have been completed by guys on this web sight. I'm sure they can tell you more.

Ragtop Man I can answer that question,I bought competition engineering bolt in frame connectors for my 68 convertible. Yeah they did not fit because of the extra crossmembers in the floor. I took a piece of cardboard and made a template to go around the crossmember and matched it to the connector. We cut a notch out of the connector added a 1/4 " flat stock to the bottom side of the connector and plug welded it in. Then we added metal to fill in the notched area. The strength of the connector remained now it is about 1/4" from crossmember. I used very long 3/8 nc setscrews in the rear spring perch pads this makes alignment a breeze just use flat washers and locknuts. Also I bolted the front end of the connector to the subframe from each side adds strength. Hope this helps Garry.

Cutting a section out of the bars sounds like a good idea, without having to cut completely through them I still wonder if they are long enough, from the spring eye cup to the body bushing.

Gary, I was posting a reply to rickb1b as your post came in, what brand bars did you purchase. Thanks for the ideas guys.

Ragtop I used competition engineering bolt in bars,from Summit racing products,and yes they are long enough and look great when done right.Garry

I cut the x-brace and then welded it to the subframe connector which was also welded at the front/back frame rail. It made for a nice solid platform. I also have solid body mount bushings from Global West.

just a idea could you just heat them up and "adjust with a hammer" with the heat you could really do this in a uniformed manner just a thought

Anybody got a picture you could send me of the notched connectors?

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'69 RS SS 396 375hp L78 Convertible, M22, 3.31 posi, deluxe interior, gauges, rosewood wheel, AM-FM,fold down seat, tilt wheel, SS wheels, console mounted 8 track player, chambered exhaust
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Is the x-frame the portion of the chassis that runs perpendicular to the tunnel? The reason I ask is that a section protrudes out near the end of the front frame and one just under the passenger floor. All these areas seem to be a major interference. If the bars were modified and only bolted in will there be a significant improvement in ridgity? If anyone has pictures please post, also if anyone knows any sites or manufacturers that do chassis components for convertibles please let me know. Thanks for the help!

After reading these posts on a good way to cut the connectors to fit I thought of something. The notching of the connector seems to be the best way to go. I wouldn't think cutting the floor brace is a good idea. If the connector was notched to the same profile as the floor brace, box the notch closed, and keep the notch tight to the floor brace the notched connector could be welded to the floor brace. I believe the same thing has already been said but the floor brace was cut and then the connector was welded. Again, cutting the floor brace doesn't sound like a good idea. What does everyone think?, chris

That sound like a great idea to me. Of course it would take some really good measuring. Anyone think there will be problem with the connector welded to the cross member.